part. "The Dismal Swamp" is a name and a description. From this dreary waste of lakes, swamps, and tangled woods, are discharged Bennet's creek southwardly into Chowan river; and south-eastwardly, Perquimans, Pasquotank, and North river, into Albemarle Sound. On the opposite side Nansemond and Elizabeth rivers carry the surplus water into Hampton Roads, or the mouth of James river. Along the ocean, Currituck Sound extends fifty miles northwardly from that of Albemarle, separated from the ocean by only a long, narrow, and low reef of sand. The extreme northern part of Currituck Sound approaches to within ten miles of tide water in Lynnhaven Bay. The space, indeed, between the northern end of Currituck Sound and Cape Henry is a continuation of the sand reef stretching from Cape Hatteras to Chesapeake Bay. It may be remarked, that in a distance of 128 miles northward from Cape Hatteras to Chesapeake Bay, the reef has but three openings, New Inlet, South Inlet, and Currituck Inlet; and again south-westward from Cape Hatteras to the mouth of Cape Fear river, though there are numerous small inlets through the reef, there is but three or four of any commercial or naval importance. Ocracoke Inlet, Cedar Inlet, the pass into Beaufort, and New river Inlet, are the deepest along the south-eastern coast of the great basin of North Carolina. The impracticable nature of this coast, of upwards of three hundred miles, with interior waters no where admitting more than seven feet water, except at the harbour of Beaufort, may be still more strongly depicted by the fewness of inlets. Seventy miles occurring in one place, having Cape Hatteras near the middle point, without a single pass from the ocean to the interior.

The first successful attempt to form any artificial improvement on the navigable channels of this region of shallows, led to the completion of the Dismal Swamp Canal. This canal of intercommunication between the basins of North Carolina and Virginia was navigated, and produced tolls as early as 1822. It commences on Deep creek, a branch of Elizabeth river, and extends through Dismal Swamp to Joyce's creek, a confluent of Pasquotank. It is in length 23 miles, and rises 16 feet above the Atlantic level; 40 feet wide at top, with 6 feet water; it is connected with Lake Drummond by a feeder of five miles in length and 44 feet water.

Since the original plan of the Dismal Swamp Canal was partially carried into effect, it was suggested to give it a depth of eight or ten feet water, to render its capacity adequate to receive any vessel which could pass the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal; but the shallowness of the southern sounds restricted their navigation to vessels drawing seven feet water at most, and therefore unless the Dismal Swamp Canal could have been followed by a line of equal depth, it was useless to give it a greater depth than requisite for the coasting trade of North Carolina.

A line of canals and river navigation has, however, been proposed, which will, no doubt, with modifications to suit local circumstances, be in time effected. This great plan is to commence

with, and both widen and deepen, the Dismal Swamp Canal, and, in place of debouching in Pasquotank river, carry it into Chowan river, at or near the mouth of Bennet's creek, and thence down the channel, or along the bank of Chowan, to its junction with the Roanoke, and on to Plymouth, and up the Roanoke to the port of Williamston. From the latter point it is 21 or 22 miles nearly due south to Washington on Tar or Pamtico river. From Washington, again, it is only 16 miles, also in a southern direction, to the navigable waters of Neuse river, in Swift creek, at Dawson's Bridge. From Dawson's Bridge, a natural channel of 35 miles down Neuse river, past Newbern, leads to the great bend of Neuse Bay, and to Adams creek. Thence up the latter, which affords 12 feet water, and, by an intermediate canal of three miles, to North river, down which, by good navigation, to Beaufort. The whole of this line of from 180 to 200 miles, of which at least 70 would be by natural channels, would receive the influx of Chowan, Roanoke, Tar, and Neuse rivers, and, as may be seen by reference to Table VI., would be supported by the productive labour of the inhabitants of upwards of 56,000 square miles.

By a report made to the congress of the United States, 9th March, 1826, by the Engineer Department, through the secretary of war, this, or very nearly a similar route from Norfolk to Beaufort, is strongly recommended; but, from the tenor of the report, it is evident the framers had Beaufort harbour constantly in view, as the southern termination, and such a line would, no doubt, be a work worthy of a nation, but is demonstratively only a part of what is necessary and practicable to unite the deep bay of Chesapeake with the basins of South Carolina and Georgia. Any canal carried, as proposed, into Neuse river, by Swift creek, could be continued up that stream to its great bend, in Lenoir county, and thence into the North branch of Cape Fear river; or could leave the Neuse at Newbern, and follow the Trent into Duplin; and thence into the North branch of Cape Fear river; following either of the latter routes, and down the North branch, would enter Cape Fear river at Wilming

ton.

Cape Fear river itself, from the relative position of its basin, and the course of its channel, comparatively with those of the Neuse to the north-eastward, and Great Pedee to the west and southwestward, is a region of great interest. In our description of the basin of Pedee, it may be seen how very near the main volume of Cape Fear river approaches the sources of Waccamaw and Little Pedee, and with how little comparative expense a canal could be made from the basin of Cape Fear river into that of Pedee. The canal and river improvements southward from Pedee basin inclusive, have been noticed under the heads summed in Table V. We now proceed to review the canal and road. improvements in the North Carolina basin.

The rendering even partially navigable the sounds along the lower part of the basin of North Carolina, were such a work practicable, would do honour to a nation; but there is one alternative too often lost

sight of in projects of every kind in the United States, and that is, "Is this work the most eligible to effect the purpose intended?" By an act of Congress, the 20th of May 1826, it was required, that a survey be made of Roanoke Inlet and Sound (Albemarle), with a view to ascertaining as to the practicability of making a permanent ship channel between Albemarle Sound and the Atlantic Ocean, at Roanoke Inlet." The prefatory remarks of a report made in virtue of the required survey, as quoted in Armroyd's Internal Navigation of the United States, contains more than a doubt of attaining the object. "It is impossible," states the report, "to enter upon the discussion of the proposed project, involving such important consequences to the populous and productive portions of the country watered by the Roanoke river, without feeling deeply sensible of the difficulties in effecting so desirable an object, and the degree of uncertainty attending the result of any operations where the causes to be governed are so infinite and powerful. Wherever the course of nature, in her marine operations, is to be governed, there is probably no subject within the range of the science where so much is deduced from hypothesis, and where, necessarily, in the result, there is so little certainty."

It demands no abstract reasoning to determine the preference, where the object in view is the same, between an intended work, where "Nature, in her marine operations, is to be governed," and another placed beyond the reach of so uncontrollable an agent as an ocean. There is, perhaps, no other contrast more striking than to see the volume of water in a canal so completely under the control of man; and yet performing operations beyond all human force, and the utterly ungovernable mass of water rolling to and from an ocean coast.

It would, indeed, be most desirable, if practicable, to find a situation admitting a good harbour, if only of 15 or 20 feet depth, between Charleston harbour and the mouth of Chesapeake Bay; but leaving the hypothesis where it was left by the United States engineers, we proceed to investigate what has been performed and planned to improve the inland navigable channels in the North Carolina basin.

About North Lat. 35° 50', at a place called Nag's Head, 45 or 46 miles along the reef to the northward from Cape Hatteras, it appears there formerly existed an inlet with 10 feet water, which has long been closed by oceanic deposit. This, when open, was called Roanoke Inlet, and was directly outside of Roanoke Island and the two straits uniting Pamtico to Albemarle Sound. The same powerful agent which closed Roanoke Inlet opened New Inlet, opposite the north-east part of Pamtico Sound, and 30 miles northwardly from Cape Hatteras.

Conflicting plans have been proposed to meliorate the navigable facilities of this coast. One was, that under the influence of which the Act of Congress of the 20th May 1826 was passed, and which has been already, together with its object, stated under this head. To carry such a project into effect, the engineer recommended to cut off all

connexion between Albemarle and Pamtico Sounds by mole or embankments across Croatan and Roanoke Sounds or straits, and to make a new passage or inlet by dredging. The engineer then submitted two plans of execution:

Estimate for stone embankments, $2,363,483

do. of timber and earth do. 1,206,297. The engineer in closing his report throws doubts on the practicable execution and preservation of such works, exposed to the winds and waves of the Atlantic Ocean, and farther, "not still perceiving a great probability that the country could, in consequence, be benefited in its intercourse, and home and foreign trade, to an extent that would counterbalance the heavy expense involved in erecting and maintaining the needful works: but especially du bious as to the possibility of guarding the proposed usefulness of them against future encroachments or accidents of impediment, induced by an unsettled

ocean."

To this we may add, that if the proposed inlet was successfully completed, and its eventual deterioration by the action of the Atlantic Ocean guarded against to full security, the embankment over the two straits on each side of Roanoke island would put a total stoppage to water intercommunication between the two extremes of the North Carolina basin, by its two principal Sounds, and render more necessary the existence of a counter canal across the general course of the rivers, and to the interior of the Sounds. The state engineer himself doubting, however, either the easy execution and preservation of such a work on the ocean border, or its extensive benefits if in existence, presents another plan in the following terms:

"The general features of the plan now presented for consideration are, the excavation of a channel through the shoal ground in the sound, cutting across the sands between it and the sea, and, by the intervention of a tide lock, secure to the trade an outward navigation at all times, between half tide and high water. In submitting this plan, we must regret the entire impracticability of giving to the import trade the benefits of the same channel. This will be evident at once in the smallness of the sea mouth of the cut, thereby causing great risk in attempting its entrance, with a lee shore, as it must always prove-and in the immediate vicinity of a cape, the most dangerous, with one exception, of our extended coast, without the protection of a breakwater, in case of unfavourable weather. The hopelessness of combining such an auxiliary, however, is most conclusive, when we reflect upon the unremitting tendency of the currents of the ocean on the southern coast, and the abundance of the elements which go into the formation of the shoals, and which, in this instance, would endanger the safety, if not, indeed, the very existence of the proposed inlet."

The defects of this plan are candidly stated, but the engineer proceeds to dwell upon the greater cheapness of execution and security for the works when completed. He gives the aggregate of $327,734 10, as the necessary expenditure.

The Roanoke Inlet Company was created by Act of Assembly of North Carolina, 1821.

The labours of that state, however, both in and out of its legislature, have had more direct and effective success when expended upon the rivers within, than when employed to form channels through the sounds. No one river of North Carolina has nevertheless yet been rendered as navigable, even along its channel, as the volume of water and moderate requisite expense would admit.

Cape Fear river channel, so important to some of the best cultivated counties of the state, has been partially improved. The Board of Internal Improvement, on the 22d of January 1827, reported to the legislature, that the improvement of the channel of Cape Fear river, from Wilmington to Fayetteville, had been prosecuted the preceding year to considerable extent, but that much then remained to do in clearing the channel even as high as Black or South river. The sluicing system was recommended, and also a dam and locks at Smiley's Falls; and by combining the different kinds of improvement, obtain a steam-boat navigation from Wilmington to Fayetteville, during ten months of the year; and a batteaux navigation thence to Haywoodsboro, in Chatham county, at the junction of Haw and Deep rivers: entire distance by the channel from Wilmington to Haywoodsboro, 180 miles.

The preceding improvements would be connected with those of the Yadkin, if another projected route was carried into effect. The lower part of the channel of Deep river, the western constituent of Cape Fear river, extends about 30 miles, or nearly half the intermediate distance, directly towards the Yadkin, below the Narrows in Montgomery county. A design of a canal has been conceived to leave Haywoodsboro, pursue the valley of Deep river as far as necessary, and thence by the most practicable route to the Yadkin, at or near Blakeley in the lower part of Montgomery county. This route has received the title of "Cape Fear and Pedee Canal," and would most certainly be, if actually and efficiently formed, a great link in the net work of internal improvement, but it is yet a project.

We have already noticed the works already executed and projected in the comparatively large basin of Pedee, but may here, in order to preserve connexion, turn our attention to the Upper Pedee or Yadkin.

The distance from Wilkes Court House to the point where the Cape Fear and Pedee Canal is intended to debouch into the Yadkin, is estimated at 200 miles. This distance it is designed to render navigable along the channel to the Narrows in Montgomery county, where a canal and locks are stated to be necessary, and where the side canal would connect with the Cape Fear and Pedee Canal. See our notice of Pedee basin, whilst we return to a review of the important basin of Roanoke. The lower falls in Roanoke, between Northampton and Halifax counties, North Carolina, must at a future time form a separation between two species of navigation on that stream. These falls are formed by the passage of the river over the great

outer ledge of the Appalachian system, and in a distance of 12 miles above Weldon, the water falls 100 feet. This descent is overcome by the Weldon canal.

Weldon is a village, port, and post town of Halifax county, North Carolina, situated at the foot of the Great Falls, very nearly mid-way between Raleigh and Norfolk in Virginia, and, by the road, 85 miles from each. Below Weldon the Roanoke is very tortuous in its course, the channel being estimated at 90 miles, though the comparative length is only about 70. This distance is navigated by sloops. Above Weldon the two states of North Carolina and Virginia have, by canals and other improvements, made the channel of Roanoke navigable for boats 244 miles to Salem in Botetourt county, Virginia. In the upper navigation, the sluicing system has been extensively employed.

The Dan river navigation, though in reality a branch of that of upper Roanoke, is given under a separate head in Armroyd's Internal Navigation of the United States. That author informs us, under head of Danville and Dan River Canals, that beside the important canal at Danville, the sluicing improvements extended, when the account was written, 152 miles above Rock Landing, and reached Leakesville in Rockingham county, North Carolina.

The expenditure of capital, up to November 1826, on all branches of the Roanoke navigation, made by the Roanoke Navigation Company, including, however, real estate and slaves held by the company, amounted to $341,283; and by similar estimates, up to the 5th Nov. 1828, the amount of expenditure and property held by the Company was $565,991.

The Weldon locks and canal unite the lower and higher navigation of this fine stream, the extent of which will be scen at a glance on the subjoined

594

The canal line, designated "The Plymouth and Beaufort Canal,' recommended by the Engineer Department of the United States, the 9th March 1826, has been already noticed, and deviations and enlargement recommended, under the present head. As an adjunct to these interlocking chains, another line was designed, called the Murfreesboro' Canal. This latter, as planned, is to leave the Weldon canal basin, or some other point near and above the basin, and be extended thence by a route, a little north of east, to Murfreesboro' on Meheren river; down the Meheren and Chowan to Bennett creek; and thence along the channel of the latter, and from it, by the most eligible route, into the Dismal Swamp Canal. The length necessary for the Murfreesboro' chain of canal and river navigation

has been estimated at 80 miles; and the requisite sum to carry it into effect 761,522 dollars, as reported in 1818, by a joint Board of Commissioners of the states of North Carolina and Virginia.

The connexions of the Roanoke basin will be more developed under the succeeding head.

The Basin of Chesapeake. This most extensive river physical section of the Atlantic Slope of the United States, has the united basins of Chowan and Roanoke south; the north-eastern part of the basin of Mississippi, or the valley of Ohio west; the basin of Ontario, and the north-western part of that of Hudson north; valley of Schoharie north-east; Basin of Delaware, and the narrow Atlantic slope of the Eastern Shore of Maryland and Virginia east. The longest line that can be drawn within it extends in a direction very nearly from south-west to north-east, and from the extreme western sources of James river, in the Alleghany chain of mountains to those of the Unadilla branch of Susquehannah, within a small fraction of 500 miles. It is about 260 miles where widest, from east to west, and from the Eastern Shore of Virginia to the western sources of James river. The entire area being about 69,000 square miles, the mean breadth will be 138 miles nearly.

In latitude, this fine natural section of the earth extends from 36° 40′ to 42° 55', and in Lon. from 2° 20' E. to 3° 40′ W. from W. C.: consequently, it embraces 6 degrees of latitude and 6 degrees of longitude. Central latitude, 39° 47'. If the Peaks of Otter are taken into view, the relative height is from the level of the ocean to 4200 feet elevation; but rejecting the mountain height and regarding only the declination of the rivers, the difference of height will be about 1500 feet.

Taken in its utmost extent, this basin sweeps entirely across the Appalachian system, and embraces at the fountains of Susquehannah, a part of the interior secondary formation, traverses obliquely over the transition and the primitive, and reaches the ocean by a border of recent sea-sand alluvion. The great features will appear more distinct by a survey of the sub-basins, to which we proceed, advancing from south to north.

James river is the southernmost confluent of Chesapeake Bay, deriving its most remote sources from the Alleghany chain opposite to those of Green Brier branch of Great Kenhawa; south from those of Shenandoah and other branches of Potomac; and north from some of the small confluents of New river, and from the higher sources of Roanoke. It is remarkable that the extreme source of Potts Creek, the most south-western constituent of James river, rises only seven or eight miles from the main channel of New river, upwards of 100 miles comparative course below the higher fountains of the

latter.

It has been observed under the present head, but may be more distinctly seen by inspection of a general map of the United States, that the river channels from the Great Pedee, or Yadkin, to the northeastward were gradually assuming general courses more to the eastward. This change has reached

its utmost term in the channel of James river, beyond which, the rivers again curve more and more towards a southern course, and from the Susquehannah to Penobscot inclusive, all the main streams have a general course something west of due south. It may be also observed, as a general character of the Atlantic rivers of the United States, but most prominent in the basins of Chesapeake and Delaware, that, though uninfluenced as to their respective recipients, their intermediate courses are determined by the mountain chains. This mountain influence extends so far, that the main volumes of the Chesapeake and Delaware confluents are almost uniformly along the mountain vallies, or at right angles to the mountain chains and vallies.

These observations are exemplified in the higher branches of James river; the northern, James river Proper, Cowpasture and North river, rising in the same vallies with the sources of Shenandoah and Potomac, but flowing in an opposite direction or south-westward, and meeting the southern branches, Dunlap creek, Potts creek, Craig creek and Catawba. The main James river, or, as there called, Jackson river, rises in Pendleton county, Virginia, and in the mountain valley east from the Alleghany chain; and flowing thence by comparative courses 50 miles, receives Dunlap creek, inflects to the southward 4 or 5 miles, traverses a minor chain of mountains, passes Covington, receives Potts creek, and rapidly bends to the northeastward, 12 miles to its junction with Cowpasture river. The latter, a considerable branch, has the remote Pendleton, but similar, it flows south-westward over Bath into Alleghany, uniting with Jackson river at the north-western side of what is there called Potts' chain. Here the united waters take the name of James river, bend to south-eastward 25 miles by comparative course, traversing several chains of mountains into the valley between Blue Ridge and Kittatinny. Again inflecting to northeast 16 or 17 miles, receives North river from Augusta and Rockbridge counties, rapidly again bends to the south-east, and piercing the Blue Ridge, enters on the fine valley between the latter chain and South East Mountain, and flowing 25 miles, traverses this lower distinct chain of the Appalachian system near Lynchburg, and between Amherst and Campbell counties. Once more this now considerable stream bends to north-eastward, and flows in that direction about 40 miles, and in that part of its channel almost completely parallel to the Blue Ridge, distant from 20 to 22 miles from that chain, and nearly along the south-eastern foot of the South East Mountain. Below the latter chain James river assumes its final course of south-east by east, which, with a very tortuous channel, it maintains by comparative length 70 miles, to the head of tide water at Richmond, and about 80 from thence to its entrance into Chesapeake bay, between points Willoughby and Old Point Comfort. James river is remarkable for the great number of small confluents, and receiving below Blue Ridge but two streams really deserving the name of rivers. Rivanna, rising by numerous branches from the Blue

Ridge opposite the sources of the South Fork of Shenandoah, is a fine stream of about 45 miles comparative length, draining great part of Albemarle and Fluvanna counties, and falling into the left side of James river, 59 miles, by the actual channel above tide water at Richmond.

Appomattox is the principal confluent of James river, either above or below the mountains. This stream rises in Prince Edward, Buckingham and Cumberland counties, interlocking sources with those of some minor confluents of James and Roanoke, and also with the higher branches of Nottaway. The intermediate windings and actual channel of Appomattox are very tortuous, and may exceed 130 miles, but the comparative length is about 85; 75 above tide water at Petersburg, and 10 below that city to its entrance into James river.

The valley or sub-basin of James river lies in a position inclining a few degrees to the north of west and south of east, in length 250 miles; mean breadth 40, and area 10,000 square miles. Extending in Lat. from 36° 40′ to 38° 20' N.; and in Lon. from 1° E. to 3° 40' W. from W.C.

For the relative elevations see Tables at the end of this head.

York river sub-basin, is overheaded by the interlocking sources of Rivanna branch of James river, and the Rapidan branch of Rappahannoc; the two latter originating in Blue Ridge, whilst the extreme fountains of the former are in the South East Mountain. York river is formed by two confluents, Pamunky to the south, and Mattapony to the north. The Pamunky is the main branch, and rises in Orange and Louisa counties, by numerous creeks, which enter and unite in Hanover near the head of tide water, below which it flows by a very crooked channel, but comparative distance of 40 miles, to its union with the Mattapony, having an entire comparative course of 90 miles S. E. by E.

The Mattapony rises in Spottsylvania county to the south-westward from Fredericksburg, from which, without receiving any accessory stream of consequence, it flows to the south-east 70 miles, between the Pamunky and Rappahannoc to its junction with the former, below which the united waters are known as York river.

The name of York river is really confined to a narrow bay of about 35 miles in length, extending from south-east to north-west, with, however, depth of water at its mouth for ships of the line of the largest class. The entire sub-basin of York river extends in length 130 miles, in a direction nearly from south-east to north-west; the mean breadth does not exceed 20, nor does the extreme width in any place amount to 40; area, 2600 square miles. Extending in Lat. from 37° 15' to 38° 16', and in Lon. from 0° 41' E. to 1° 12' W. from W.C.

The Rappahannoc basin or sub-basin follows that of York, but as already noticed the former extends to Blue Ridge. The Rappahannoc has been compared to a high tree with a small head and long trunk. The head is formed by two branches, Rapid Ann and North Fork, or Hedgman river. Rapid Ann rises in the south-eastern vales of Blue Ridge,

opposite to the South Fork of Shenandoah, and interlocking sources on one side with those of Rivanna, and on the other with those of Hedgman river, draining Madison and Orange counties, and separating Culpepper from Orange and Spottsylvania counties, joins Hedgman river after an easterly course of 50 miles. The North Fork, or Hedgman river, rises in the Blue Ridge to the northward from the sources of Rapid Ann, and draining the greatest part of Fauquier and Culpepper, pursues a south-eastern course of 50 miles to its junction with Rapid Ann, to form the Rappahannoc. This stream, 10 or 12 miles below the union of its two main constituent branches, falls over the primitive ledge and meets the ocean tides at Fredericksburg. The Rappahannoc at the head of its tides is within 10 miles from the Potomac, at the great bend of the latter between Charles county in Maryland and Stafford in Virginia; and again, 15 or 16 miles lower the two rivers approach each other to within 5 or 6 miles. Below those points of approximation, in a distance of 75 miles, the intervening peninsula between the two streams is in no place 22 miles wide, and varying from that to 5 or 6 miles in breadth. Below the head of tide water, the channel of the Rappahannoc extends 90 miles in a direction from north-west to south-east, and similar to all the confluents of the Chesapeake gradually opens into a bay, and unites with its recipient by a mouth of 6 miles between Stingray and Windmill Point. In all the space from the head of the tides to Chesapeake, Rappahannoc does not receive from either side a confluent above the size of an ordinary creek, nor does that part of its basin exceed 12 miles in mean width. The entire basin extends from north-west to south-east 140 miles, with a mean width of 20 miles; area 2800 square miles. Extending in Lat. from 37° 34' to 38° 44', and in Lon. 0° 41' E. to 1° 22′ W. from W.C.

The whole aggregate surface of the three subbasins of James, York and Rappahannoc, are comprised in Virginia, of which political section they constitute the south-eastern, lowest, and warmest part, if we except a small section of James river basin above Blue Ridge. This comparatively tropical physical section of Virginia is followed by the important basin of Potomac, which forms connexions physically and politically deserving of more attention than the limits of this head will admit. The Potomac derives the far greater part of its water above the Blue Ridge, and the passage of its volume through that chain constitutes so striking a point of division, as to justify separating in description the two sections of the basin.

Potomac, above the Blue Ridge, is formed by the North Branch or Potomac Proper, Patterson South Branch, Cacapon, Back creek, Opequan and Shenandoah rivers, from the south-west, and a series of comparatively small confluents from the north. The stream to which the distinctive name of Potomac has been given, rises in the Alleghany chain opposite to the sources of Cheat and Youghiogany, N. Lat. 39° 10', and Lon. 2° 30′ W. from W.C.; and flowing about 30 miles to the north-eastward,