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plan of painting the light-houses in stripes or bands is strongly recommended by her Majesty's commissioners. Another excellent suggestion, is that of notifying the approach of storms, by means of Admiral Fitzroy's signals, from such light-houses as are adapted by their prominence for that purpose. Another desideratum, is the employment of some efficient means of indicating the locality of a light-house when the fog prevents its light from being seen.

Although the number of light-houses has steadily increased as pressure has been brought to bear upon the authorities, there is yet room for more; for vessels may be within a very short distance of the coast in clear weather, and yet beyond the range of any light. Our neighbours, wiser in this matter, have so arranged their ocean-lights that they cross each other's tire. The shortcomings of our system are especially apparent on the western coasts of Ireland and Scotland, and the Channel Islands, where the rapid tides afford additional argument for more efficient protection. But whatever the deficiencies in the lighting up of our coasts, and however susceptible of improvement the system may be, it is satisfactory to find, on the testimony of those who should, by their vocation, be the best judges, that England is not behind other countries in a matter in which her reputation and interest are so nearly concerned. Only 33 mariners out of 311 prefer foreign to British lights, while not one foreigner declares in favour of the lighting of other countries. In making direct comparisons between British and foreign lights, as to the distance at which they are discernible, 112 witnesses decide for the superiority of the former against 72 partisans of the latter. The light-vessels of the United Kingdom number forty-seven (besides a reserve force of eight), of which no less than forty-one belong to England. Oil is invariably used for these floating-lights, and the catoptric system adopted in all but three. They may be divided into fixed and revolving, white and coloured, and again into one, two, or three light vessels. That they may be distinguishable in the daylight, they carry balls at the mast-head; those of the Trinity House are painted red; the Irish vessels are black with a white streak. To be of real service, it is necessary that a floating-light should never be absent from its station; and in this respect there seems to be no ground for complaint. Not a single instance is on record of a voluntary desertion of a post; and where a vessel has been driven from its moorings-an event of rare occurrence-it has been quickly replaced; and not one has ever been wrecked. As far as safety is concerned, the most exposed stations are apparently the least dangerous, the long sea and the length of chain required to moor the vessels in deep water, render it easier riding than where the sea is shorter, the water shallower, and the current stronger.

These light-vessels are costly affairs-the English ones averaging L.3622 each; and the Irish, which are of a superior kind, and of greater size, L.6224. The expense of maintenance is much heavier than in the case of light-houses, amounting to L.1103 per annum in the lowest instance, which is some L.250 less than that incurred by the American government. From the neglect of many local authorities, the information respecting the buoys of Great Britain is very defective. The returns give 1109 in position, and 573 in reserve-a number much below the mark, for in this respect our coasts are better guarded than those of any other country. It is to be regretted, however, that some uniform system of buoying has not been put into practice. The northern commissioners, it is true, have lately adopted the plan of placing red buoys on the starboard, and black buoys on the porthand in entering harbours; the English and Irish authorities have also in some measure systemised their buoyage, but as if on purpose to render the confusion worse confounded, the last-named reverse the Scotch formula; and the Trinity Board place red or

black buoys to starboard, and checkered ones to port; the local authorities following this laudable example, do their worst to complicate matters by using an independent system of their own; while the Admiralty itself dispenses with any attempt at uniformity within its own jurisdiction. The original cost of a buoy varies according to its size and construction. Some of the old-fashioned Nun and Can buoys do not cost more than sixteen guineas; but there are buoys afloat which have cost as much as L.197. The only regular expense attending them, when they are once fixed in position, is that of painting, which is done by the crews of the floating-lights in England, but in Scotland costs 7s. 6d. per annum for each buoy, while the Dublin Board actually pay from L.2, 10s. to L.5, 5s. for the same operation-a charge requiring some explanation.

The want of system observable in our light-houses prevails in an equal degree in our beaconage, in diversities of form, colour, and construction, so that a certain amount of local knowledge is absolutely necessary before the mariner can avail himself of the warning given by the beacons. The materials of which they are constructed are of various kinds-wooden beams, iron, and solid masonry. On the Goodwin Sands, hollow-pile beacons have been erected, with encouraging results. The beacon near Stornoway reflects light which it derives from a light-house on shore, but, in general, lights are omitted as unnecessary. The navigation of the Clyde is rendered easy by a number of solid structures at short distances, distinguished by colour and other means, marking the course of the channel in a way worthy of imitation elsewhere. Where such a variety of materials is employed, of course the expenditure fluctuates exceedingly. A white pole, surmounted by a basket, answers the purpose at Lymington-creek; the Pabba beacon, in the Sound of Skye, made of malleable iron, cost more than L.500; and the beacon on the Wolf Rock, Land's End, entailed the enormous expenditure of L.11,298. The cost of maintenance of these useful structures is often nothing at all, except in situations which render them liable to damage from the action and force of the waves.

In France, the ocean-lights are under the direction of the Commission de Phares-a body of naval officers, marine-engineers, hydrographers, and scientific men, possessing special means for testing all the apparatus employed. America and Spain have placed their coasts under similar control. Austria, Sweden, and Turkey intrust this charge to their respective Admiralties. In Holland, Norway, and Denmark, the Ministry of Marine is the responsible department. In Belgium, the Minister of Public Works sees to the construction of light-houses, which are then surrendered to the care of the general direction of the navy. In Russia, the duty is performed by the Hydrographical Department. In our own country, the carrying out of any systematic arrangement of the light-house system is impeded by the distinct and often opposing action of three separate governing bodies, to say nothing of some hundred and seventy local authorities, wielding jurisdiction in their several spheres. In England, the general authority is in the hands of the Trinity House

a self-elected corporation of nautical men, without any special aptitude for the light-house service; the Ballast Board of Dublin, paramount in Ireland, is not even composed of those familiar with the sea; and the Scotch commissioners are two legal crown officials, the sheriffs of certain maritime counties, and the provosts of certain royal burghs-gentlemen by no means necessarily conversant with light-house science and management.

To obviate the evils consequent upon this divided and misplaced authority, the royal commission, presided over by Admiral Hamilton, propose the creation of a central authority, to be called the Trinity Commissioners of Lights: this body to be composed of

four members elected by the Trinity House, one Scotch representative, to reside at Edinburgh, and one Irish, to dwell at Dublin, who shall devote all their energies to the light-house service alone. To these they would add a scientific member, appointed by the government, the astronomer-royal, the hydrographer of the Admiralty, the comptroller-general of the coast-guard, and a professional member of the Board of Trade. They also consider it advisable that the new department should be subject to an annual visitation from the Royal Society, to whom it shall submit a report of its proceedings during the year, to be afterwards laid before parliament. They would make the coast-guard officers inspectors of the lights in their districts, and render the whole service chargeable upon the public revenue.

To these recommendations, little objection can be made; and if parliament will but carry them out, the royal commissioners will have done good service to seafaring men, and through them, to the country at large.

THE UNDERCLIFF.

AMONG the various resorts in search of health, few within a moderate distance are so agreeable and every way satisfactory as what is known as the Undercliff in the Isle of Wight. We do not say this on the authority of books-though to these we might refer-but from personal experience on different occasions; and a grateful recollection of this beautiful and accessible spot, impels us to take pen in hand on the subject.

Change of air and scene is now, we believe, acknowledged to be highly conducive to health, and accordingly, at certain seasons, all who can afford it are seen fleeing off to the sea-side, the Highlands, or the continent. Middle-aged people, somewhat done up with overtasking of brain, are said to experience wonderful re-invigoration, and also not a little amusement a great thing that, by the way-at such water-cures' as Ilkley and Ben Rydding; while those who are enfeebled by chest and bronchial complaints more usually seek a milder and more southern climate, and more delicate treatment. For this latter class of persons, there is, of course, nothing to excel Madeira or Malaga, but of these and other distant resorts not one in a hundred invalids can afford to take advantage; and from one cause or other, the bulk of people must rest satisfied with quarters much nearer home. Possibly, Penzance in Cornwall, and Torquay in Devonshire, are in some way peculiarly adapted for certain complaints; but we entertain a pretty strong conviction, that for mildness, united with general dryness and equability of temperature, nothing within the compass of England can surpass Ventnor, in the Isle of Wight. If better be wanted, we incline to think it must be sought for abroad.

What an immense number of charming places are rendered disagreeable for residence by rain, fogs, and humidity! Damp, damp a heavy, soft, relaxing sort of atmosphere-is the everlasting nuisance along the whole western coasts. And it is easily accounted for. To our country, the Atlantic is the grand fountain of mists, which floating eastwards, are condensed, and fall as showers of rain, on coming in contact with the mountain-tops of Cornwall, Wales, and the Highlands. The Isle of Wight, lying snugly under the lee of the Cornish and other mountains on the west, and projected as far southward as the latitude of Boulogne (Ventnor is 50° 35'), escapes these fatal Atlantic mists, and those which come from the eastward are arrested by the intervening hills of Surrey and Sussex. But really the mists from either quarter have little to condense them in the island; for its low hills or downs are composed chiefly of chalk and sandstone, so dry and so rounded on their summits as

to present no powers of attraction. So much may be said regarding the climate of the Isle of Wight, generally; but of the part of the island to which we have specially to refer, a much higher character can be assigned. As is well known, the pleasantness and salubrity of a place depend greatly on two thingsexposure and shelter. The side of a valley facing the south will have the hue of summer even in the depth of winter, while the northern side lies bound in frost and snow. The sun-ah, what a glorious thing it is! In some countries, they have too much of it, but we cannot quite say that in England. Let us by all means have plenty of sun. There is medicine in its blessed rays, and let them shine on us all the day long. It will not do, however, to live under a glare of hot sunshine, while you are exposed to cold winds from an opposite direction. They quite understand this in Northern Italy, where, with sunshine and warmth, there are often cold winds from the mountains. On one occasion when at Nice, in the month of May, we found an intensely hot sun with a freezing wind from the north, forming an odd mixture of summer and winter. Visitors could venture out of doors only by keeping under the shelter of a row of buildings. That cured us of any very exalted notion of Nice as a resort for health-seekers. With a remembrance of such facts, it is not easy to overrate the Undercliff.

To have a correct idea of this curious bit of country, it would be necessary to go into a variety of geological details; but these we shall not inflict on the reader. It may be enough to say, that what with the chalky composition of the island, and also certain strata of underlying soft mouldering clay, the surface at all exposed parts has a tendency to slip down to a lower level. Along the southern shores, the white cliffs are in the course of being gradually undermined and washed away. When masses fall, they bring down huge lumps of sandstone, which get covered with sea-weed, or are broken up, and rolled about, and cast ashore as boulders. Ever since the Romans held the island-Vectis, as they called it-the land has been thus washing away, a matter which it seems nobody's business to look after. Here and there, the fall has been on so grand a scale as to materially alter the configuration of a district. Such is the case at Undercliff. The waves of the sea, or it may be land-springs, operating on the lower friable strata, have brought down a stretch of some ten miles, and produced a strange state of things. A hill or down of from 400 to 500 feet high, and stretching from east to west, may be said to have been split in two longitudinally. The side towards the south has sunk down, leaving a bared precipice, or range of sandstone cliffs. The breadth of the tumbled down mass varies from a few hundred yards to a quarter of a mile, and its surface is irregularly diversified with miniature hills and valleys, cliffy terraces, and sloping cultured banks. That this queer jumble will be permanent, is tolerably certain. In two or three places, the outer side has suffered fresh slips, but in the main, the Undercliff, as this long stretch is designated, has seemingly settled for all time. There are found on it two or three churches, with other buildings of considerable antiquity, and an infinite variety of fanciful villas. Commencing at Bonchurch, and extending to Blackgang, we have a region of almost unexampled beauty. Overhead, the hill and its severed cliffs facing the south, besides forming a natural shelter from the north, reflect the sun's heat down on a tangled maze of sylvan profusion-trees, shrubby knolls, grass of the richest and greenest, hedgerows, flowers, gardens, and banks of blossoming furze 'unprofitably gay.' Underneath a lofty part of the down, and where the broken ground is at the broadest, stands Ventnor, a town of modern date, comprising every variety of dwelling for the accommodation of visitors. Viewed from the sea,

Ventnor reminds one of a scene in a theatre. On terrace above terrace, on knoll above knoll, as well as on the slopes between, the buildings, mostly decorated with green-painted verandas, are placed in odd picturesque masses; nor would it be any great stretch of imagination to expect to see them some day following the geological fashion of the district, and disappearing in the waters of the Channel. Ventnor, however, has not the same chance of destruction as some other parts of the Undercliff. The ground undulates down to a smooth level beach, on which the tides harmlessly exhaust themselves.

We know of no sea-shore that can be at all compared, in purity and beauty, to the beach at Ventnor. It is not of sand, nor is it of gravel, but something between, that bears no bad resemblance to pease of a rich reddish-yellow colour. Setting aside riding and walking, the only visible recreation for idlers is that of searching in this shingle for those tiny gems, Isle of Wight diamonds.' As the polishing and setting of these sparkling crystals is one of the businesses of the town, visitors, at a reasonably small cost, may come home with a wonderfully replenished jewel-case.

from the mainland frees it in some measure from the intrusion of the various orders of tramps and scamps that haunt more dense communities.

On

Selecting the Esplanade at Ventnor, on account of its proximity to that ever-charming marine view and beach, and living there from March till the end of May, we may be allowed to speak of what recommends the place not alone to the invalid, but all who, like ourselves, long for the exhilaration of fresh mild air and sunshine. It is matter of local note, that Ventnor has two seasons, with two distinct classes of visitors. From about November till March or April is the great winter season, when it becomes the resort of persons afflicted or threatened with pulmonary, rheumatic, and some other affections. being deserted by these classes of health-seekers, Ventnor experiences a lull or interregnum, and is frequented only by casual visitors until the autumnal months, at which time it is a resort for sea-bathers and tourists. What are its peculiar qualifications, may be guessed from what we have said as to the dryness of the air and equability of its usually mild temperature. Snow seldom falls, and still more rarely lies in winter.* Spring-frosts, the torment of gardeners, are scarcely known. When fruit-blossoms in northern and midland districts are blighted, here the most delicate vegetation is secure. Of course, there are cold days, and also rainy days sometimes, but, on the whole, rain is more common at night than during the day; and what is equally important to invalids, the most rainy season is in autumn, when they have quitted the island. To one accustomed to the vicissitudes of a comparatively northern clime, the general equability of temperature appeared something remarkable-the shelter of the Down, and the influences of the sea in winter and spring modifying the cold, and the sea-breeze in summer modifying the heat. Night and morning for weeks in the colder season, the exposed thermometer out of doors ranged from about 42 degrees to 48 degrees, and at the warmer season from 56 degrees to 62 degrees. What a

In saying that Ventnor is too difficult to get at, no more is meant than that the place is as yet unprovided with a railway, and to all appearance, although an act has been got to construct a line, it will not have one soon. Landing at Ryde from Portsmouth, the tourist finds himself, after a voyage of five-and-twenty minutes, completely cut off from railway locomotion. He has before him a drive of two hours through Brading, Sandown, and Shanklin. The journey, about twelve miles, might be done a little quicker, but the ground is far from level, and what is the need for all this abominable hurry that mankind are getting into? Let us have time to look about us; and, perhaps, being somewhat sentimental, we will alight at Brading to visit the grave of little Jane,' the Dairyman's Daughter,' for which there is no lack of ciceronés. As for the general scenery on the route, there is nothing very striking, but much that is pleas-fine thing to find, as you rise at half-past seven o'clock ing in the unsophisticated English rural style. What though the agriculture might stand some improvement, and also that the flail keeps its ground against steam, these things are the farmers' business, not ours. It is more to the purpose to say, that the eye is charmed with the sight of thatched cottages nestling among roses and honeysuckles, and ivy-clothed waysides plentifully dotted with blue-bells and primNor is the ear unsolaced; for besides a chorus of birds, here still-and long may it be so

roses.

-the

Drowsy tinklings lull the distant folds.

When the carriage rounds the shoulder of St Boniface Down, and begins to descend the southern zigzaggy slopes, amidst the prettily situated villas of Bonchurch, the climate sensibly improves, reminding the traveller of the change experienced in descending from the eminences of Switzerland into an Italian valley. Now, we are in the Undercliff, within half a mile of Ventnor, where such are the numbers of houses and apartments' to let, that we have only to pick and choose. High grounds, terraces at midheight, or the Esplanade down on the sea-shore, all ready to be selected, according to taste and other circumstances; while it must be owned that, even in the best situations, the charges for accommodation are remarkably moderate. It would be a pity, after coming such a long way, to find yourself incommoded with the sights, sounds, and smells not unusual among a fishing and seafaring population. Anticipate none of these disagreeables. The place seems to be singularly exempted from anything offensive. Drunkenness, crime, rags, and wretchedness are, however, little known anywhere in the Isle of Wight-a phenomenon of which we are unable to offer any explanation, further, perhaps, than that its separation

every morning in May, that the thermometer outside your window indicates a mean temperature of 58 degrees or thereabouts! We believe it was Sir James Clark who, among other valued services, first called attention to the fine climate of the Undercliff, and in his book, as also in the local work of Dr Martin, various kinds of special information must be sought. Leaving every one to exercise his own judgment, our object has consisted in merely drawing a more general attention to this happily situated spot. Perhaps we should repeat more emphatically that Ventnor is dull -very dull-at least in the absence of society it appeared so to us; but with the solace of carriages and books, with the post bringing letters and newspapers twice a day, and with walks on downs and cliffs to any imaginable extent, we are bound to say that there are much less lively places of resort than this English variety of Sleepy Hollow. W. C.

* According to a late meteorological report, the lowest tem

perature last winter at Ventnor was 24 degrees.

On Saturday, 6th July, will be published in this Journal,

A TALE, ENTITLED

MYSELF AND MY RELATIVES.
To be continued every week until completed.

TO CONTRIBUTORS.-It is requested that all Contributions to Chambers's Journal may be, for the future, directed to the Editor, at 47 Paternoster Row, London, E. C. Printed and Published by W. & R. CHAMBERS, 47 Paternoster Row, LONDON, and 339 High Street, EDINBURGH. Also sold by WILLIAM ROBERTSON, 23 Upper Sackville Street, DUBLIN, and all Booksellers.

OF POPULAR

LITERATURE

Science and Arts.

CONDUCTED BY WILLIAM AND ROBERT CHAMBERS.

No. 391.

SATURDAY, JUNE 29, 1861.

ON THE ROCK WITH GARIBALDI. FILLIBUSTERING-I speak of the better sort, whose object is fame or freedom-is very pleasant and exciting while it lasts, but is subject, like other grand delights, to very painful seasons of reaction. Your fillibuster who has done his wild work, no matter at what loss of ease, and time, and blood, and handed over to legitimate authority the prize for which he has been contending, is a lost, forgotten thing. A cracked bottle, a blunted razor, an empty sack, an exploded firework, are emblems of substantiality, brilliancy, and power, compared with him. It is not that the disbanded creature is not brave, honest, a good comrade, not content, nay, joyful, to have served Liberty for twopence a day, irregularly disbursed, or even to have waived altogether this last claim; it is simply that the man has no position,' or, if he have, it is that of an amateur thief-catcher, whose services, hailed with enthusiasm in the moment of need, become embarrassing so soon as the work is over. The regular police-force repudiate him with something like scorn; the public, individually, disown his disreputable acquaintance. He is a wild, rough creature, of violent habits and belligerent tastes. Thank him, somebody-and pitch him over!

Seeing how unpopular a garment the red shirt has suddenly become, a feeble-minded fillibuster might easily be betrayed into asking himself, whether there were not, in reality, something shameful and unworthy in making people free, and end by feeling rather grateful, upon the whole, that the liberated parties -more generous than the convicts in Don Quixote permitted their chain-breakers to escape without an actual pelting.

It was in some such mood as this that, wandering one February morning through the crowded ways of Genoa, it came into my mind to visit the island-home of my dear old general; and the purpose, once formed, becoming irresistible, I at once accomplished it.

There is a fortnightly communication between Genoa and La Madalena (one of the little communes of islands which includes Caprera) by means of the Dante, a small steamer of about two hundred tons, whose accommodations, though arranged principally with reference to the exportation of pigs, were good enough for a disbanded fillibuster. I was a little startled at the terms proposed for so short a voyage --forty-eight francs-but, sending a messenger later in the day, and finding that the price had sunk to thirty-seven, I came to the conclusion that the difference, eleven francs, was a fine in the nature of the ancient Jews' tribute, here levied upon red shirts,

PRICE 14d.

and, in high spirits at having evaded it, prepared eagerly for my trip.

I was fortunate in my companions. The cabin of the little Dante was occupied by a party consisting of Minotti Garibaldi, the hero's eldest son (the gallant youth, now about two-and-twenty, was severely wounded in the wrist and hand at Calatafimi); Basso, the general's secretary; Genesi, of the commissariat; a captain of Turr's Guides; and another gentleman of distinction named 'Fuoco' ('fire,' in the battle sense), whose four legs had been seen, in many a skirmish, trotting busily about in the very hottest of the element from which he derived his name. There were, besides, a few ex-volunteers for Madalena, and likewise a lady of Italian eye but German tongue, whose reasons for visiting Caprera were an object of some speculation. Her manners, certainly, had not that repose which distinguished the noble house of Vere de Vere, it being even necessary to call in authority to quell a wordy contest in which the fair pilgrim had rashly engaged with an intoxicated mariner.

Scarcely had we been three hours at sea, when certain little stops-let us call them commas-began to indicate some lurking disarrangement in our engine-room; presently occurred what might be termed a semicolon, of at least three-quarters of an hour; and, finally, a period or full stop, after which we put about, and returned to Genoa.

Repairs completed, in a few hours we sailed again. The next day was fair and bright, and we ran down the coast of Corsica with a fine breeze, so fine, that the discreet skipper popped into Porto Vecchio for the night, being now but thirty miles from our destination.

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Inglese! Inglese!' said the voice of Minotti Garibaldi next morning (I felt an admonitory tug at my leg), Caprera !'

I was on deck in an instant. We were running into the harbour of the adjacent island, La Madalena, all whose maritime population seemed to be on the watch for us.

Madalena, whose four thousand inhabitants furnish many a stout sailor to that treacherous sea, boasts of a race entirely distinct from the Sards proper, their neighbours, and having, as it appeared to me, few characteristics in common with them. The aspect of the island, varied as it is by a line of broken picturesque heights, is not unattractive. An old fortress overlooks the harbour. In the latter, we found lying Alexandre Dumas's schooner-yacht, the Emma, and a small steamer, the Schneusa, placed at Garibaldi's orders, as a dispatch-boat. There were, besides, some ten or twelve stout fishing-vessels, of twenty or twenty-five tons each.

There being no port at Caprera large and deep enough to admit such a colossal craft as the Dante, we, who were destined for that island, disembarked here; and our cabin-party, entering a little yawl belonging to Minotti, manned by a native fisherman and a sailor from the Emma, swept up the narrow strait that separates San Stefano from La Madalena, passing, as we did so, the residence of Captain Roberts. This gentleman, a veteran of Trafalgar, has been long resident on the island- so long, indeed, as to be able to relate some interesting personal anecdotes of Byron and Shelley.

The breeze being fair, in about three-quarters of an hour we were nearing the little cove at Caprera which does duty for a port, and from which an ascent of a few hundred yards leads to the humble dwelling of the Great Soldier of Italy. Two or three figures, attended by a number of dogs, began, as approached, to descend the mountain-path, as if to meet us; a cart of remarkable construction following, to bring up Minotti's luggage.

we

began Minotti

'Ah, see! There is my-my'eagerly; but his English gave way. 'Fader!' suggested Basso. 'No-papa-papa!' exclaimed Minotti laughing. The party on shore were laughing too, and that very heartily; and, moreover, it shortly became impossible to doubt that they were laughing at us. The general, for he it unquestionably was, appeared to be as much amused as anybody. What could it be? We looked at each other inquiringly, when the truth suddenly broke upon Basso.

'Capella longa! capella longa!' (tall hat), he exclaimed, pointing to Minotti's, which was of the English mode, the first time such a covering had adorned a head in Caprera.

is divided among three proprietors, the larger portion belonging to an English lady, Mrs Collins. This lady's residence is about two miles distant from that of her cordial intercourse. Only once had this amity been illustrious neighbour, with whom she is on terms of endangered, during her husband's life, and at a period when the pressure of political circumstances rendered the general's residence in the island little short of compulsory. It happened that Garibaldi had a flock of sheep, whose pleasure it was to make periodical forays into the Collins territory, and that sometimes in such alarming force, that Mr Collins, at the suggestion of his intendant, forwarded to the general a very spirited protest in reference to this violation of frontier laws. In spite of some terrible examples made by the chief among his insubordinate muttons, the inroads continued until they aroused-it would appear the sensibilities of a band of patriotic pigs, who in their turn executed a raid of much severity upon Garibaldi's then unprotected garden and repeated their foray. The general shot the pigs shrubbery. The general remonstrated. The pigs shot, and also ate them! The enraged owner ordered his boat, and skimmed over the glassy strait, to consult his compatriot, Captain Roberts.

'What am I to do with such a man as this?' asked poor Mr Collins. My pigs certainly were in the wrong, and if he had only shot them. . . . . But to eat one's pigs!'

Captain Roberts suggested that the general might really have imagined that the razzia was directed by some mountain-pig, who was at all times fair game; and gave, altogether, such soothing counsel, that the little dispute ended in a renewal of that friendship which was not again disturbed.

At noon we re-assembled for dinner, the general, his son and daughter, Colonel and Madame Dideri, Basso, Stagnetti, Specchi, and 'Agostino' (that is, Austin, myself). We had excellent soup and fish, no meat, but plenty of most delicately flavoured Neapolitan sweetmeats. None of the party drank The boat touched the shore, and Garibaldi, accomanything but water, though there was at hand a cask of British beer, a present to the chief, who panied by Stagnetti, his aide-de-camp, Colonel pressed me, but in vain, to partake of it. Garibaldi Specchi, a friend who resides with him, and Colonel talked little at table, a habit that seems to be Dideri, came forward and gave us a cordial greeting. respected by those around him; but when he did He was in his usual working-dress, and suffering from speak, the hero laughed and jested as merrily as earache, had a handkerchief round his head. He when, at Milazzo, I saw him steal half the morsel wore a shooting-jacket, and a pair of gray trousers, of cheese from Stagnetti's plate, as the latter's which, in spite of a blue patch in the knee, I recognised as having seen before. Let me not be thought disrespectful in describing thus minutely the imperfections of my dear chief's attire. May this hand never grasp either pen or rifle more, if those old gray trousers, with the patched knee, did not inspire me with more true reverence than could the combined lustre of every kingly robe, from Solomon's downWhat signifies how the royal soul be clad?

ward!

It is Garibaldi!

It was now ten o'clock, and, as the household dined at the primitive hour of noon, a cup of coffee was all the refreshment needed, after which the general introduced me to his fair young daughter, the Signora Teresina, a damsel of seventeen, who inherits her father's fascinating smile. Work, however, being the order of the hour, but little time was given to conversation, when the general retired to his study, the signora to her music, and others, myself included, to the operation of constructing a stone-fence round the garden, a spot in which the chief, hoe in hand (there are no spades in the island), passes much of his time, but, having little book-horticulture, with a noble disregard of seasons.

The island, as by this time most people are aware,

attention was for a moment diverted.

Dinner over, we went into the sitting-room, when the signora played some charming pieces, and then laughingly invited me to take her place. Who likes to refuse? An Irishman and a fillibuster, I didn't. Only as I sat down did I recollect that I knew but three tunes in the world, and while debating whether the Power of Love, or the Prima Donna Waltz, or the Girl I left behind me, offered fewest difficulties, my embarrassment was not decreased by some one demanding a genuine Irish melody. A sort of reproachful chorus arose: Signor Agostino an Irishman! Un soldato del Papa !'

All

The general came to my rescue. 'No, no! Irishmen are not soldiers of the pope! A brave Irish general [he withheld the name] offered me a battalion of Irish, if I needed them.'

Shortly after, Garibaldi again withdrew to his study, and I saw him but once more that day—when he walked round the garden, and congratulated his wall-makers on their progress. At dusk, I took boat, and returned to Madalena to sleep-the general's house affording no accommodation for chance-comers. The general and Dideri occupy one sleeping-apartment; the rest of the staff, five in number, another; and the ladies, the third. Two faithful domestic servants, long resident with Garibaldi, complete the establishment of the man who, with but a thousand soldiers and his own great name, added Sicily

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