"Roots and tubers must be plump, even- | has delicate rosy meat, and white, almost sized, with fresh, unshrivelled skins, and transparent, fat." are good from ripening time until they begin to sprout. All green vegetables should be very crisp, fresh, and juicy, and are best just before flowering." Mushrooms, sweet herbs, okras, chives, cresses, and other products of mother earth claimed successive attention; and then the procession filed away to the meat stalls. As we passed a group of loungers, various comments reached my ear. "Whatever be those, Bill?" whispered a rough voice, as softly as it could. "One of yer Sunday-schools out for an airin'," replied another, oracularly, its owner a picturesque young fellow in a Turkish fez. As we assembled around a stall laden with "good store of meats," most of the young girls wore a puzzled air, but the matrons assumed an impenetrable gravity, which might mean any amount of knowledge, or answer very well to cover its absence. "I know corned beef when I see it." said one of the girls, triumphantly, to her neighbor. 66 And I know a marrow-bone, girls. But listen: Miss Corson is explaining about beef." At this point my young housekeeper, to show what she had learned, selected and bought a breast of lamb for her lesson in the afternoon. At the close of the lesson in meats, the class were led by a circuitous route to the outer fish stalls, upon which were piled heaps of shell, river, lake, and sea fish. The fish arcade, with its tanks of water filled with speckled trout, and its finny treasures of every sort, awakened the liveliest interest in every member of the class. "Fish, when fresh, have firm flesh, bright, clear eyes, rigid fins, and ruddy gills," commenced Miss Corson. "Lobsters and crabs must be bright in color and lively in movement, like these." As the lesson proceeded, a hundred questions were asked, ill-natured crabs and snappish lobsters were poked at with pencils, stupid clams and reticent oysters were interviewed right merrily, and a vacant-looking cod was invited to tell when he arrived from sea. When we were leaving, a young girl timidly ordered a red snapper for baking, as Lent was near at hand; and we then proceeded up town rejoicing. After luncheon I escorted my young "Beef should be of a bright red color, housekeeper to the Cooking School. It was well streaked or marked with yellowish a pleasant scene into which I ushered her. fat, and surrounded with a thick outside Fifteen or twenty ladies were seated in layer of fat. Good mutton is bright red, rows before a long wooden counter or tawith plenty of hard, white fat. Veal and ble, behind which stood Miss Corson, a pork should be of a bright flesh-color, fine, pleasant-looking lady, engaged in exwith an abundance of hard, white, semi-plaining the mysteries of a consommé transparent fat. Lamb of the best kind à La Royale." On the right hand a large, 66 brightly polished range, with shining cop- | stage, filled my friend with surprised admiration. When Miss Corson, taking a breast of lamb, deftly boned, trimmed it of superfluous fat, seasoned and spread it with a dressing of bread, chopped onion, per saucepans and boilers, from which already issued savory odors. On the left a tall cupboard for dishes, casters, smaller utensils, etc., and near by, on the wall, a ing at me with beaming eyes, exclaimed: | touch lettuce with a knife, as it impairs "I mean to try that dish to-morrow. I am sure it must be delicious, and one can buy that part of lamb or mutton at so much less cost than the loin or hindquarter." the flavor and destroys the crispness of the leaf; always tear it apart with the fingers," said Miss Corson, daintily suiting the action to the words. A lesson in bechamel and Spanish The next dish was baked red snapper. sauces was then given, followed by "ap"An excellent Southern fish, though oth-ple méringues" and "kisses" for dessert. ers may be cooked in the same style," said Miss Corson, as she scored its sides, and inlaid the cuts with strips of pork, and proceeded to fill its interior with a dressing of soaked bread seasoned with thyme. Like the preceding dish, the fish was laid on a bed of vegetables in a baking-pan, a small dipper of hot water poured in, and the fish placed in the oven. The dishes were handed around for inspection, and the session was over. A hum of soft voices mingled with a ripple of low laughter, as the ladies, flocking around the table, delightedly sniffed and tasted the results of the lesson. "Have you learned anything, my dear?" said I to my friend, as we passed out to the street. "Ah, every one knows how to do that- "I am brimful of ideas, and mean to even I do," whispered my friend, as Miss take a full course of lessons. Ah! how Corson announced that she was going to many trials I might have been spared had prepare a piece of beef for roasting. AI learned how to cook and keep house benew light, however, dawned on her coun- fore! But I never dared go near old Vio let's kitchen; she would have driven me out with the broom or the carving-knife. Ah! there is no monarchy more absolute than a favorite old cook's. Thank Heaven, my Ellen is stupid and good-natured!" "If she is willing to learn, I would send her to the Cooks' Class at once. There's our Bridget, for example, just as you describe Ellen. When I proposed to her to take lessons, and described what it was like, the honest creature exclaimed: 'Faix, ma'am, an' it's me that will go to plaze ye; an' if Bridget Ryan don't have the makin's of a fust-class cook afther the tachin', may the divil-savin' your prisince-run away wid her! Send Ellen, and give her a trial to-morrow. Bridget is growing such a treasure, one does not mind the cost of teaching at all." who sat near the table with hands folded on her chest, nose in the air, and a general air of protest about her whole body, that said as plain as words: "I don't belave in none o' your nonsinse. I'm here because of the missus. The likes o' ye can't tache me nothin'." The first dish was "roast duck and water-cresses." Directions were given for drawing, trussing, dressing, and roasting. A fowl was then prepared for boiling, with oyster sauce. This was followed by a pair of pigeons, which furnished a boning lesson. "If a cook,” said Miss Corson, as she prepared the pigeons, "can draw her birds without mangling or soiling them, and then prepare them so as to combine an inviting appearance with an enjoyable flavor, she proves that she has pursued her art with taste and discretion; so it will be well to attend carefully to the instruction given in this lesson." I dropped in next day upon the Cooks' Class, taking a young friend with me who was about to be married. I met her on my way down town, and in the course of conversation about her future Two pigeons were next in order for life she told me she intended to save up broiling. These were split down the back, money to buy a billiard table, remarking, the entrails removed, the birds wiped innocently: "It will be such a good thing | clean with a damp cloth, and placed in to keep my husband at home with. You readiness for the gridiron. A fowl was know, if he has the proper sort of amuse- then cut in joints, a lesson in fricassee ment at home, he won't go off to clubs, given, and the class broke up with exand all that sort of thing." pressions of admiration for the "nate, tidy body," the "knowledgeable leddy," and the wise young woman," as they variously called their instructor. "My dear girl," replied I, "did you ever hear the old saying, 'The way to reach a man is through his stomach'? Learn to be a good economical cook and housekeeper." "Why, how can I do that? I have no time, and Ann won't let me put my head in the kitchen.” "Come with me to the Cooking School: it is the Plain Cooks' Class this afternoon. The instruction is not only for domestics, but for young housewives beginning, or about to begin, married life in comfortable circumstances-for instance, as you and Charlie expect to." The room as we entered looked cheerful enough, with its neat table, warm range, and copper utensils sending forth a cloud of fragrant steam. Five or six neatly dressed women sat watching Miss Corson intently, among them Bridget and Ellen, with faces beaming and smiling till they showed rows of teeth as white as the snowy aprons under which their hands were folded. A couple of prettily dressed, sweet-looking girls also listened with great interest to the lesson; and all seemed pleased but one woman, 66 It is generally supposed that small children, from their volatile temperaments and forgetfulness, can not be taught or trusted with cookery. Miss Corson has proved quite the contrary. Last year she had a class of children from the New York Home for Soldiers' Families; this year ten of them do the entire cooking for the inmates, at least 150, in that institution. In all the classes of the New York Cooking School no pupils are more industrious, helpful, and intelligent than the little children from the mission schools and charitable institutions. In point of fact, the children's classes are the most charming and useful and important, for the wholesome effect they will have on the strata of society they represent. The artisan course of instruction for these little folks and elder girls comprises the preparation and cooking of simple dishes, setting the table, bringing in the dinner, waiting at table, removing and washing soiled dishes, and regulating kitchen and dining-room. CUSTARD. Let us go and take a peep at the children. A little flock, under the guidance of a kindly matron, is passing down to the basement; we enter with them. How merrily they babble as they divest themselves of hats and shawls! What a ripple and trill of childish laughter as they strive for the first rows of chairs! Listen: a sudden hush, a settling down in seats, and a smoothing of aprons, as Miss Corson appears, and, doffing bonnet and cloak, takes her position behind the table, with a cheery "Good-afternoon, children." The lesson of the day, says the blackboard, is "Fried Fillets of Flounder," "Maître d'Hôtel Butter," "Grilled Fish Bones," and "Caramel Custards." Two or three girls are usually chosendifferent ones at each lesson-to assist in making the dishes; so when the material was laid on the table, and the lesson announced, Miss Corson said, "What little girl is anxious to help me cut the fillets?some one with strong hands." A dozen hands were held up at once. Selecting one of the eldest girls, who came around and stood by her side, Miss Corson, taking up a sharp, thin-bladed knife, deftly cut off the whole side piece or fillet of the fish entire, and then handing the knife to the watchful girl at her side, gave minute directions from time to time, which were followed so accurately that the remaining three fillets were soon lying, skin side down, on the counter. Miss Corson, then taking the knife, showed the class how to cut the fillets clean from the skin. Meanwhile another little girl is called for to make the breading. With flushed cheeks and an air of importance, a little wee thing steps up, seizes the roller, and vigorously rolls the bread-crumbs to powder, beats an egg up with a spoonful of water, and retires. The elder girl, who by this time has prepared the remaining fillets, breads them, dips them in the egg, and in the bread again, and lays them on a dish, in readiness to be fried a delicate brown in smoking-hot lard. "Now, children, you observe that we have a nice bone left; shall we throw it away, or use it? I think it would be nice grilled. We will take some mustard, salt, pepper, salad-oil, and vinegar-make a paste of them, and spread it over the bone. Then let us broil it on an oiled gridiron, and afterward serve it with sprigs of parsley or slices of lemon. Now, besides the fillets from the fish, we have this, making two delicious dishes where people commonly make but one." The children looked very wise, a little hungry for the coming feast, and exceedingly interested. An unusual flutter took place, however, when two little girls were called for to make "lemon custards," and one to make "Maître d'Hôtel Butter." All the hands went up at once at the mere mention of custards. The fortunate girls who were chosen marched around behind the counter, and the resigned remainder subsided into placid attention. One of the little maids beat the eggs lustily, while the other, sweetening and flavoring a quart of milk according to direction, set it on the fire to boil, stirring it carefully; then a sieve was held over the beaten eggs, the milk with its lemon rind and sugar strained therein, then poured into cups, which were placed |