may start in a fine morning, and yet in a few hours find a storm that would destroy you. There is not a better sailor in Connemara than Paugheen." Under the guidance of the money-lender I started for Paugheen's cabin, to make a bargain with him for my passage to Arranmore. It was a wretched hovel at the extremity of the village, the thatch tied down with straw ropes to prevent the wind from blowing it away, the single window stuffed with old garments, and the door so rotten that it could not be closed. The moneylender knocked and yelled with the air of a man who summons his inferiors, but met with no response. We were about to return, when a girl of some eighteen years came from a neighboring pathway bearing a pail of water on her head. She was so stately in her movements, so full of queenly dignity, that I thought of the sacred poet's image of the column of ivory. Her beautiful face preserved a superb self-possession when she saw us, which, whether it came from stupidity or unconcern, was not the less attractive. Her hands and feet were small and finely formed, and her ankles and wrists were as delicate and firm in their contour as a piece of antique sculpture. "Is that you, Elleen?" cried the moneylender, abruptly; "and do you leave the house deserted entirely, for anybody to run away with what is in it ?" "God save you, ma'am!" she said to me, respectfully; and turning to the lender, replied, with a fine irony, "It's not you that will run away with what's in that house; and as to other people hereabouts-the Lord have pity on them! they are too honest to touch more than is their own." "Where is your uncle?" asked my conductor. "He has been fishing since last night, and has not returned. If you will wait a minute, I will tell you whether he is in sight;" and taking the bucket from her A FRUGAL BREAKFAST. A rugged path led us to the strand, where, on our arrival, Paugheen had already anchored his boat, and was packing in his basket the few dozen whiting which comprised the product of his twenty-four hours' labor. Yet he was so well pleased on not coming in quite empty-handed that he was as jubilant as a man of his age could be on an empty stomach. The hooker, as the larger fishing-boats are called, was lying alongside of a little pier, rudely constructed by the fishermen of the neighborhood, in the charge of a girl. She was coiling the ropes, stowing away the sail, and throwing the nets out upon the rocks to dry, with an efficiency that won my admiration quite as much as the amiability which lighted up her face, like a halo illuminating the head of a saint. The old fisherman, who was left alone in the world with his daughter and his niece Elleen, whom we had just left, depend ent upon him, had placed the care of his household in the hands of the latter, and had taught his daughter the skill he pos "When would it be best to leave?" I asked. "To-night," he replied, "with the tide; for though there is not much wind, there is no prospect of a storm." Thereupon the captain and crew agreed to come for me at the hour of sailing. It was near midnight when I took leave of my hostess, and Paugheen carried my luggage, while his daughter ran before me with a lantern to the boat. The night was dark and warm, and the road was muddy, but because these experiences were novel, I did not feel their discomforts. I sat in the stern of the hooker, the hard planks being somewhat softened by my wrappings, the boat rising and falling on THE MONEY-LENDER. This child sessed as fisherman and sailor. was so intelligent and gentle in her manners, notwithstanding her rude calling, that my heart warmed toward her with an inexpressible sympathy. Her hands. were hard from working with tarry ropes, and her face reddened by the breath of the fierce Atlantic, yet her voice was rich and musical, and her luxuriant hair seemed a badge of her womanhood. When I proposed to Paugheen to hire his boat to go to the Isles of Arran the next day, he informed me that he could not go then, because, as he would be compelled to take advantage of the tide, it would bring him so late to his destination that he might be embarrassed in entering the island in the darkness through the rocks and shoals. ELLEEN. the swelling of the sea, as if courtesying to the land to which we were about to bid adieu, while the captain disposed of the ropes and prepared to hoist the sail. Sud denly a familiar voice came from the gloom, saying, "Are ye there, ma'am?" "Is that you, Flanigan?" I returned. "It is meself, indeed," he said, with a chuckle. "I brought over to-day a grand gentleman from Dublin, who is the government inspector of the fisheries, and hearing that you were just going, I come to say godspeed. Take my word, it's a fine island you are going to, for I have been there meself, and in it I drank the most beautiful draught of bottled porter I ever tasted in me life." At this moment the boat shot out from the land, like the spray driven back into the sea. It was so dark that the sea and sky appeared only a leaden mass against the black shore we were quitting; the novelty of the thing, the fresh sea breeze, and the bounding motion of the boat, gave me for a while a sense of great exhilaration, but as the full sweep of the Atlantic became more and more evident, my enthusiasm changed to the most heart-felt disgust. I had tossed on the billows of many seas in larger craft, and had felt certain pride, as everybody does who is never seasick, in feeling myself master of the steed I rode; but on this occasion my pride was, as it were, shipwrecked, and I felt that I was wretchedly, miserably seasick. When morning came I revived, and saw a flat gray line on the horizon, toward which we had been tacking half the night. By the fuller light of the day I saw a treeless island stretched before me, on one side of which the yellow sand melted into the bay, and on the other the dark cliffs frowned defiance on the great Atlantic. As I watched the waves break against the cliffs many miles off, and spend themselves in tall columns of white foam that seemed like the ghost of the ocean's wrath, and were flung back upon her waves again, I reproached myself for having undergone so many hardships to see what promised to be so forlorn and desolate a place. VOL. LX.-No. 359.-44 There is a sheltered quay at Kilronan, the chief village of the largest of the Arran Isles. Through my half-closed eyes I saw that a black-whiskered coast-guard was somewhat surprised at landing the scarcely animate piece of humanity which I represented. With much kindness my luggage was placed ashore, and we were both conveyed rather than conducted to a whitewashed habitation, designated, in black letters over a green door, as the "Atlantic Hotel." Whether it was because I was seasick, or that the place was really filthy, I know not, but when I entered my THE CAPTAIN AND CREW. room the atmosphere seemed thick with the odor of salt fish and tar. Disgust gave me courage to sally out for a walk while my rooms were being prepared. On my return the shades of evening gave relief to the glowing fire prepared for me, the bare floor was covered with a felt carpet, and there was an appearance of cleanliness and comfort which I had not anticipated. I listened with a certain satisfaction to the wild waves which broke into spray a few feet from my window, thinking, for all their howlings they could not make me the wretch they bore upon their bosom the preceding night. BEFORE the wine-shop which o'erlooks the beach Yes, lads-hear him say- We set all sail. The breeze was fair and stiff. My boyhood had been passed 'neath yonder cliff, Ah me! what children suffer no man knows! And as I went about the decks my arm Was always raised to fend my face from harm. He was Newfoundland. Black, they called him there. His eyes were golden brown, and black his hair Poor Black! I think of him so often still! At first we had fair winds our sails to fill, Her hold filled fast. We found we had to seek Like a whole broadside boomed the awful crack. Landsmen can have no notion Of how it feels to sink beneath the ocean. |