works; for example, that of Harold R. Maxson. (A practical handbook regarding Mexico City and vicinity. Mexico City, 1920.) A knowledge of Spanish is not essential to the traveler in Mexico, but it goes without saying that it is exceedingly helpful and will add considerably to one's enjoyment of the country. It is worth while, at any rate, to gain a rudimentary knowledge of the language. Some travelers like to do this while they are on the ground, thereby obtaining not only a slight acquaintance with Spanish but also an insight into the meaning of the life around them, of which the teacher will almost surely try to give them some idea. Foreign paper or silver money is not only not legal tender in Mexico, but people are also forbidden to give or accept it, or even to have it in their possession, under penalty of a fine. Though the law is not strictly enforced, it is best to conform. The traveler should therefore provide himself with gold, or better still with a letter of credit or travelers' checks. These, though expressed in one's own money, are convertible into Mexican currency within the republic. The rate is usually two Mexican pesos for one American dollar. It is best to have only so much actual cash on hand as will meet existing needs. Mexican money, if not procurable at the point of departure, can always be obtained at such border towns as El Paso, Laredo, and Brownsville, and of course also at any Mexican point of entry. One will be wise, however, to get as much as he needs to take him to Mexico City before entering the territory of the republic. In packing for the journey one should omit everything that he can possibly get along without. Travel becomes a burden to the person who is laden with equipage. It should be remembered, too, that it is possible in Mexico itself to purchase almost anything one is apt to need and quite as well as in one's own country. The not too fastidious man or woman can get along very well on a large suit-case and perhaps a small handbag. In this way, charges for overweight of trunks (which may amount to a considerable figure) and annoying delays in delivery will be avoided, and danger from theft lessened. The element of time for getting soiled linen laundered and returned, or suits cleaned and pressed-should be the principal factor in the selection of one's wardrobe. Fine clothes are appreciated in Mexico, as everywhere else. Mexicans, indeed, are great sticklers for the proprieties in matters of dress. On the other hand, English-speaking foreigners are but little given to the practice of appearing resplendent. Most of them are business men of a more or less pioneer type, and care perhaps less for social etiquette than they would in their own countries. On the whole, though, it is wise to take along evening dress, if one can find room in his grip, especially if he is at all likely to attend any evening function among the Mexicans. The chances are that he will have no occasion to use it, but this is one extra that may well enter into one's plans. Nevertheless, one need not, and therefore ought not, equip himself as if for a sojourn at Newport or Palm Beach. Some travelers provide themselves with letters to Mexicans or their own countrymen in Mexico. These are of some value but by no means necessary, as one very quickly makes friends in the southern republic. Getting Into Mexico: Entry into a foreign country is often attended by annoying experiences which give one a bad impression to start with. This is as true of Mexico as of other lands. Certain formalities are always required. First one's passport is inspected. Then come the custom-house officials. Apparel and personal effects are free of duty unless they have never been used. The sanitary division then takes a hand and presumably fumigates one's luggage. Those who enter at Vera Cruz must also pass a medical inspection. It is well to have a certificate of vaccination, though ordinarily it will not be demanded. Inoculation against typhoid fever is desirable, though not required by Mexican law. The tourist will find the above examinations to be somewhat perfunctory. It is the accompaniments which cause the trouble, notably the cabmen (cocheros), porters (cargadores), and petty helpers who assist (?) one along the way. One should inquire beforehand what to pay for an automobile or cab, and then stipulate for that price before starting out. The same applies to porters employed for a long carry. The petty pests who open the door of your coach, or carry your bags a few feet to some official inspector, etc., should be rewarded, if at all, with only a few pennies. The writer and a companion recently crossed the frontier at El Paso, employing a better than ordinary automobile, and got aboard the train at Ciudad Juárez after a total expense of one dollar and seventy-five cents gold apiece. The same day a young woman unused to travel and unacquainted with Spanish, paid twenty-eight dollars and a half for the same service, and her chief helper(?), who was an American cabman, left her only when she threatened to call the police. Recrossing the line at the same place, with only a suit-case and handbag the writer expended thirty-three cents; but for the somewhat unnecessary luxury of a porter (twenty-five cents), it would have been eight cents-carfare five cents and bridge toll three cents. The cautions just set forth apply within Mexico, as well as at the border, but the first pill is usually the bitterest. The route by way of Nuevo Laredo, being a through line from the United States, presents fewest of these difficulties. Choice of Route: Vera Cruz, Matamoros, Nuevo Laredo, and Ciudad Juárez are just now the principal points of entry into the Mexican republic. It is easiest, perhaps, to take the sea voyage to Vera Cruz, but some extra formalities are required both by one's own government and by that of Mexico, in the case of those who come by sea. Furthermore, it is not always easy at the present time to get comfortable accommodations on good boats. The journey from Vera Cruz to Mexico City takes less than sixteen hours. Nogales is the point of entry for travelers bound for west coast points by the Southern Pacific of Mexico; while Tampico serves as the gateway to the oil fields on the gulf. All things considered, the routes by way of Matamoros and Nuevo Laredo, joining at Monterrey, are perhaps the most convenient. The sleeping coaches on these lines are under Pullman management, wherefore it is not only possible to arrange for accommodations through to the capital but also the service is reasonably good, if by no means equaling what one is accustomed to expect in the United States. There is no diner, but buffet meals are served. These may be supplemented, if one has no fear of germs, by the thousand and one things that are offered by Indian women vendors at nearly every stop. A ride of some thirty-four hours, from Nuevo Laredo, and thirty-nine from Matamoros, brings one to the Mexican capital. The route by way of Ciudad Juárez is inferior in that there is as yet no through service from the United States. It is under Pullman management, however, so far as sleeping-coach service. is concerned. From the standpoint of the country traversed, this is possibly the most interesting route of all, but is also the longest, requiring more than fifty-four hours for the through trip to Mexico City. An official time schedule (Guia Oficial) for all the railroads of the country can usually be purchased for a small sum, on the train. It is well worth having. Indeed, it contains much useful information in addition to train schedules. Railway Travel: Long journeys by rail are rather uncomfortable for one accustomed to the cleaner and more thoroughgoing service of lines in the United States. There is a considerable difference in price between Pullman, first-class (ordinary day coach), and second-class, but the traveler will be glad to get the best, such as it is, at any cost. For short journeys, first-class is suitable, but one must be on the alert if he is carrying baggage. Suit-case stealing is a fine art in Mexico, especially at railway junction towns, such, for example, as Irapuato, on the route to Guadalajara. Second-class is almost wholly the resort of Indians and such petty "livestock" as dwell upon their persons. The traveler should be careful of his personal effects on a train-or, indeed, almost anywhere else in Mexico-but should avoid an air of suspicion. Oftener than nine times out of ten he will have no trouble at all. The inconvenience of railway schedules has already been. alluded to-(See under Where to Go). Living Accommodations: Mexico City has many fairly good hotels, but only three, the Imperial, Princess, and Regis, make pretense to being first-class. Even these would hardly rank higher than second grade in any of the large cities of the United States. Hotel rates in the capital are relatively high-about five to ten pesos a day for the lower-priced single rooms, and as much more as one cares to pay. Greater comfort at less cost can be obtained in some of the excellent family hotels and boarding houses of the Juárez and Roma districts, at a distance of some ten to twenty minutes' car-ride from the center. The hotels in or near the center ordinarily have a restaurant attached, but at lodging places farther out one is usually served only with breakfast. Most travelers will prefer to take dinner and supper at some of the excellent restaurants in the heart of the city such, for example, as Bach's, the Globo, Prendes', and Sanborn's, to mention but a few out of many. In these he may safely experiment with Mexican dishes, as well as buy food to which he is accustomed in his own country. The drinking water of the capital is perfectly safe; indeed, it is rarely equaled in any part of the world. Away from Mexico City one will find reasonably good hotels at very much lower prices. Notions of cleanliness will often be somewhat primitive. What to Do in Mexico: There are "sights" galore for one to see in any of the much visited parts of the republic. The guidebooks are filled particularly with scientific and architectural material, representing everything from archaeological remains, through old Spanish churches, to modern museums. Some in each category the average traveler will certainly wish to visit, but unless he has a special taste for that sort of thing he is apt to become "fed up" before he has covered half what the book tells him to see. But there are many other things to do which bring one in closer touch with the people, as distinct from their buildings, past or present. There are the various forms of the theatre, bullfights in the dry season, baseball (at which Mexicans of the capital are exceedingly proficient) all the year around, and the exceedingly skillful game of frontón (the Basque pelota), usually played at night and depending for its success on the accompaniment of betting. Most people will find considerable pleasure in casual conversations in the hotel lobby, at restaurants, or in clubs, whether with Mexicans or foreigners. Mexico itself is an absorbing topic, just now, and nearly everybody has an opinion that is at least interesting. Tourists are hereby advised, however, to let the other fellow do most of the talking. They are also cautioned against becoming "authorities" themselves, as a result of a few weeks' stay. An occasional dinner with a private family, especially if that family be Mexican, is a happy experience not easily forgotten. It is to be noted, however, that Mexican courtesy goes to extremes never dreamed of by northern people, and one is apt to be embarrassed by kindly attentions unless he is enough. of a diplomat to head them off. Shopping for curios is a practice which many a tourist enjoys He is hereby warned, however, not to pay the first price asked; he would be regarded as a simpleton if he did. Some of the foreign shops, indeed, advertise and pretty well live up to a Precio fijo (fixed price). There is yet another thing that one ought to "do" in Mexico, and that is "keep his coat buttoned," or otherwise be on guard against pickpockets. Beware of newsboys thrusting a paper to your face with one hand, while they steal your watch with the other. Beggars should be ignored. Cost of a Trip to Mexico: Travel in Mexico is not dear. Railroad fare is a little higher than in the United States. Take for example, the run from Nuevo Laredo to Mexico City. Following is the schedule of rates, expressed in pesos: Kilometres 1st Class Apartment Lower Upper 18.50 In other words, first-class fare is slightly more than four centavos a kilometre, or slightly less than four cents gold a mile. Second-class is less than half as much-but should not be tried. Boat fare from New York ranges from one hundred and eight to one hundred thirty-two dollars gold in first-class. Board and room in the capital are about what they would be in most American cities, but in other parts of the republic are less. One can live comfortably in Mexico City on from five to ten dollars gold a day, and for about three to six dollars in other cities. Any amount beyond these sums will depend upon the luxuriousness or the frivolity of one's tastes. For a very long stay, still better rates could be made. General Attitude of the Traveler: The tourist is urgently advised to adopt the point of view that he is a visitor, in a sense a guest, while he is in Mexico. Mexico will prove to be different from the homeland. Otherwise, why go there at all? The newcomer sees defects much more readily than advantages, which |