a residence of about fourteen days, returned in the same manner to Bootan. His villa was ornamented with drawings of that city; of Lubrong, the residence of Teshoo Lama in Tibet; of Cattamandu, the capital of Nepal, and Patan, in the same kingdom, as well as of other places of famed resort. Their representations partook both of plan and perspective, though without the advantages of light and shade. A bull-fight constituted one of the entertainments, and the Rajah was engaged in preparations for the festival of Durga, at the autunnal equinox, when our travellers left Tasisudon. to the castle of Wandipur, twenty- Book II. Chap. 1. brings us from the capital to the frontier of Bootan. The route lay south-west from Tasisudon, till our travellers reached the river Patchieu : they crossed Pomola, covered with snow at midsummer; Phajudee, the place of the Rajah's last regeneration was distinguished by its palace, and inscribed flags. An extensive monastery occupied the summit of the mountain, the president of which was as usual styled Lama; to the prevalence of these monastic institutions the scanty population may doubtless be attributed. But in Bootan, superstition and ambition concur to control the most genial propensities of nature: celibacy is the road to distinction and power in this ecclesiastic government; and Capt. Turner remarks, "that the higher orders of men, entirely engrossed by political or ecclesiastical duties, leave to the husbandman and labourer, to those who till the fields and live by their industry, the exclusive charge of propagating the species." Nor is this entirely the case, for custom obliges every family that has more Chap. 8. is enlivened by a detail of the Rajah's efforts to amuse his guests, and many particulars of his conversation. This monarch had travelled incognito, with a single attendant from Tasisudon to the extensive city of Lassa, bad paid his devotions at the sacred shrine of a Pootala, (Buddhalay, the mansion of Buddha), and after than orna than four boys, to contribute one of them to the order of Gylongs. The prosecution of their route conducted our travellers to Paimatong and Paibesa, in the midst of picturesque mountains; hence they descended to the vale of Paro, stretching along the banks of the Patchieu. The castle is a handsome building of stone, mented in the centre with a gilded canopy, in the manner of all the Rajah's palaces, and calculated for defence. "Paro boasts the only market in Bootan; and it appears to be much frequented. It is also famous for the manufacture of gods, and forging of arms, particulary of swords and daggers, and the barbs of arrows." The sides of the mountains were covered with groves of pine; they contained also numerous clusters of houses, and some handsome villas, with gardens and orchards. A stage of nine miles brought our author to the fortress of Dukkajeung, built upon the crown of a low rocky hill; and eleven more to Sana, the last village of Bootan, consisting of about ten houses. Here the thermometer stood at 46°, on the 13th of September; the Patchieu pursued its rapid course through the valley, and on its banks graced a herd of chauery tailed cattle, tended by the itinerant Tartars, named Dubka. The yak of Tartary is about the height of an English bull, which he resembles in the general figure of the body, head, and legs: but is covered all over with a thick coat of long hair. The tail which supplies the oriental luxury of chaueries, is composed of a prodigious quantity of long, Rowing, glossy hair; and is so abundantly well furnished, that not a joint of it is perceptible; but it has much the appearance of a large cluster of hair artificially set on. The chain of mountains situated between the latitudes of 27° and 28°, which divides Tibet from Bootan, and whose summits are most com. monly covered with snow, is their favorite haunt. Extremely use ful as beasts of burthen from their great strength; tents and ropes are manufactured of their hair; their tails furnish an article of great demand in commerce, and they yield an abundant quantity of rich milk. The last mountain of Bootan, the dreary Somoonang, now remained to be passed; it offers no habitation to the traveller, but numbers of the natives were met on the road. I never, says our author, beheld a more florid picture of health than was exhibited in the complexion of the mountaineers; the women in particular, with their jet black hair, and clear brisk black eyes, had a ruddiness, which the most florid English rustic would in vain attempt to rival. Chap. 2. On the summit of Somoonang, a long row of little inscribed flags, fixed in rude heaps of stones, fluttered in the wind; they marked the boundaries of Tibet and Bootan. The distance of Tasisudon from this station ap pears by the route to be about 55 miles, yet as the first part of it lay in a southerly direction, the latitude of the frontier is only a few miles north of the capital. "If Bootan, compared with Bengal, exhibits a vast contrast of country and climate, there is no nearer analogy between Tibet and Bootan." "Bootan presents to the view, nothing but the most mishapen ir regularities; mountains covered with eternal verdure, and rich with abundant forests of large and lofty trees. Almost every favourable aspect of them, coated with the smallest smallest quantity of soil, is cleared and adapted to cultivation, by being shelved into horizontal beds; not a slope or narrow slip of land between the ridges, lies unim proved. There is scarcely a mountain, whose base is not washed by some rapid torrent, and many of the loftiest, bear populous villages, amidst orchards, and other plantations, on their summits and on their sides. It combines in its extent, the most extravagant traits of rude nature, and laborious art.” vels, and of game, I saw only a The Tibetians like the Persees Tibet, on the other hand, strikes a traveller, at first sight, as one of the least favoured countries under heaven, and appears to be in a great measure incapable of culture. It exhibits only low rocky hills, without any visible vegetation, or extensive arid plains, both of the most stern and stubborn aspect, promising full as little as they produce. Its climate is cold and bleak in the extreme, from the severe effects of which, the inhabitants are obliged to seek refuge in sheltered valleys, and hollows, or amidst the warmest aspects of the rocks. Yet perhaps, Providence, in its impartial distribution of blessings, has bestowed on each country a tolerably equal share. The advantages that one possesses in fertility, and in the richness of its forests and its fruits, are amply counterbalanced in the other by its multitudinous flocks, and invaluable mines. As one seems to possess the pabulum of vegetable, in the other, we find a superabundance of animal, life. The variety and quantity of wild fowl, game, and beasts of prey, flocks, droves and herds, in Tibet, are astonishing. In Bootan, except domestic creatures, nothing of the sort is to be seen. I recol lect meeting with no wild animal except the monkey, in all my tra afterwards meet with, all ran in a northerly direction. After leaving the sterile plain of Phari, the small village of Dochai was the first station; from hence the lake of Ramchieu skirted the road, frequented by great abundance of wild geese, ducks, teal, and storks, with prodigious numbers of sau, At Chalu, appeared the first traces of successful cultivation; beyond it they crossed a plain white with incrustations of matron (soda), which rises in an efflorescence from the dry plains, resembling a hoar frost. The village of Sumdta lay 14 miles farther, where a few willows were the first trees observed in Tibet. rasses, Chap. 3 conducts us from thence to Teshoo Loomboo, following the course of the Painomtchieu, which at the latter place unites with the Berhampooter; at Gangamaar, they found a concourse of invalids attracted by the medicinal vistues of its hot well, which raised the thermometer from 44° to 15. Rocks split by the frost covered the adjacent plains with their fragments; a gigantic figure of their mahamoonie was carved in relief upon an immense stone. From Shoohoo the country assumed a much more favourable aspect; the village of Naince presented the appearance of regular buildings, some of them bordered, others striped with red and partly hid by branches of willows. The castle of Jhansu-Jeung rises in the midst of an extensive valley, which tradition and observation concur to prove had been once a lake. A considerable manufac ture of coarse woollen cloths exercises the industry of the inhabi tants; abundant crops of ripe corn bordered the road, and numerous clusters of villages were scattered on each side. From Dukque to Teshoo Loomboo is a distance of only ten miles, and our travellers reached the latter place at sunrise. "If its magnificence was to be increased by any external cause, none could more superbly have adorned its numerous gilded canopies and turrets, than the sun rising in full splendour directly opposite. It presented a view wonderfully beautiful and brilliant; the effect was little short of magic, and it made an impression, which no time will ever ettace from my mind. "We ascended by a narrow street through the middle of the monastery, and were conducted ta very splendid apartments, bright with gay colours, and situated in the centre of the palace, amidst a profusion of gorgeous finery. At the instant of our entrance, we heard the deep tone of many norous instruments, which were summoning the religious to their morning orisons." 50 Chap. 4. Our travellers were now lodged in the palace built by the late Lama; their reception by the Regent was marked by much urbanity; he expatiated on the friendship which the Lama enter tained for the English, which was equally strong now as in his last incarnation, though his infant years denied expression to his sentiments. The presence chamber was supported by pillars painted with vermilion, and ornamented with gold, representing symboli cal devices. The walls were painted blue; the floor was composed of brown and white flint, and admitted of a high polish. The throne of the late Teshoo Lama, elevated about five feet from the floor, stood at one end, decorated with silks, and cushions of yellow sattin, before which tapers were constantly burnt, which filled the hall hall with aromatic odours. Cap- high piles of their sacred books." Chap. 5, contains an animated and perspicuous description of the splendid mausoleum, which contains the remains of the late Teshoo Lama. The court-yard before it was paved, and surrounded with a colonnade, for the accommodation of the pious; the pillars were painted with vermilion, and ornamented with gilding. In the centre a large gate opened to the principal avenue of the monastery; two ponderous doors being thrown open, discovered a most beautiful pyramid, at the base of which the body of the Lama was deposited in a coffin of pure gold. An ef figy of gold crowns the pyramid, before which incense is burnt; the sides of the pyramid were encased with plates of solid silver, and on each step were piled the most costly articles. "Another image of the Lama of solid silver, as large as life stood on the right side; offerings of fruits, flowers, and corn were placed on an altar in front; and on the floor were Chap. 6. is occupied with a long and amusing account of his interviews with the Regent, previously to his leaving the capital. Capt. Turner found him particu larly inquisitive on geographical points, and to have formed a more extensive acquaintance with distant countries than might have been expected. In common with the rest of his countrymen he entertained a profound veneration for the places held sacred by the Hindus, Gaya, Allahabad, Be nares, and Ganga-sagar. The late Empress of Russia attempted to establish an intercourse with Ti bet, for commercial purposes; a bible with plates in the Russian language was exhibited as a present from that sovereign. One interview |