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a residence of about fourteen days, returned in the same manner to Bootan. His villa was ornamented with drawings of that city; of Lubrong, the residence of Teshoo Lama in Tibet; of Cattamandu, the capital of Nepal, and Patan, in the same kingdom, as well as of other places of famed resort. Their representations partook both of plan and perspective, though without the advantages of light and shade. A bull-fight constituted one of the entertainments, and the Rajah was engaged in preparations for the festival of Durga, at the autunnal equinox, when our travellers left Tasisudon.

to the castle of Wandipur, twenty-
four miles from Tasisudon, and to
Punukka, the winter seat of the
Rajah. Still no towns are men
tioned as occurring in the route.
"The castle of Wandipur towers
high upon the narrow extremity
of a rock, which stands between
the Matchieu Patchieu, and the
Tahantchieu rivers, both which
streams unite at its sharpened
point: they then form together a
river of considerable magnitude,
that takes the name Chaantchieu,
and shapes its course between the
frontier mountains, flowing finally
along the flat surface of the district
of Bijnee, into the Berhampooter."
The united stream is manifestly
the river Suniacasa, which tra-
verses Rangamatty, and combines
with the Gadadhara (or Tehin-
chieu) before their confluence
with the Brahmaputra. Chiew
signifies a river in the Tibetan
tongue; hence we find it annexed
to all the proper names of the
streams which water these moun-
tainous regions. The bridge of
Wandipur is of singular lightness
and beauty, constructed entirely
of fir, without the smallest piece
of metal to
connect its parts.
Punukka is placed in a less elevated
situation, and a more genial soil
produces in abundance the fruits
of tropical and temperate climates.
A citadel and gilded canopy rises
in the midst of the palaces of
Punukka and Wandipur, similar
to that described at Tasisudon.

Book II. Chap. 1. brings us from the capital to the frontier of Bootan. The route lay south-west from Tasisudon, till our travellers reached the river Patchieu : they crossed Pomola, covered with snow at midsummer; Phajudee, the place of the Rajah's last regeneration was distinguished by its palace, and inscribed flags. An extensive monastery occupied the summit of the mountain, the president of which was as usual styled Lama; to the prevalence of these monastic institutions the scanty population may doubtless be attributed. But in Bootan, superstition and ambition concur to control the most genial propensities of nature: celibacy is the road to distinction and power in this ecclesiastic government; and Capt. Turner remarks, "that the higher orders of men, entirely engrossed by political or ecclesiastical duties, leave to the husbandman and labourer, to those who till the fields and live by their industry, the exclusive charge of propagating the species." Nor is this entirely the case, for custom obliges every family that has more

Chap. 8. is enlivened by a detail of the Rajah's efforts to amuse his guests, and many particulars of his conversation. This monarch had travelled incognito, with a single attendant from Tasisudon to the extensive city of Lassa, bad paid his devotions at the sacred shrine of a Pootala, (Buddhalay, the mansion of Buddha), and after

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than four boys, to contribute one of them to the order of Gylongs. The prosecution of their route conducted our travellers to Paimatong and Paibesa, in the midst of picturesque mountains; hence they descended to the vale of Paro, stretching along the banks of the Patchieu. The castle is a handsome building of stone, mented in the centre with a gilded canopy, in the manner of all the Rajah's palaces, and calculated for defence. "Paro boasts the only market in Bootan; and it appears to be much frequented. It is also famous for the manufacture of gods, and forging of arms, particulary of swords and daggers, and the barbs of arrows." The sides of the mountains were covered with groves of pine; they contained also numerous clusters of houses, and some handsome villas, with gardens and orchards. A

stage of nine miles brought our author to the fortress of Dukkajeung, built upon the crown of a low rocky hill; and eleven more to Sana, the last village of Bootan, consisting of about ten houses. Here the thermometer stood at 46°, on the 13th of September; the Patchieu pursued its rapid course through the valley, and on its banks graced a herd of chauery tailed cattle, tended by the itinerant Tartars, named Dubka. The yak of Tartary is about the height of an English bull, which he resembles in the general figure of the body, head, and legs: but is covered all over with a thick coat of long hair. The tail which supplies the oriental luxury of chaueries, is composed of a prodigious quantity of long, Rowing, glossy hair; and is so abundantly well furnished, that not a joint of it is perceptible; but it has much the appearance of a large cluster

of hair artificially set on. The chain of mountains situated between the latitudes of 27° and 28°, which divides Tibet from Bootan, and whose summits are most com. monly covered with snow, is their favorite haunt. Extremely use ful as beasts of burthen from their great strength; tents and ropes are manufactured of their hair; their tails furnish an article of great demand in commerce, and they yield an abundant quantity of rich milk. The last mountain of Bootan, the dreary Somoonang, now remained to be passed; it offers no habitation to the traveller, but numbers of the natives were met on the road. I never, says our author, beheld a more florid picture of health than was exhibited in the complexion of the mountaineers; the women in particular, with their jet black hair, and clear brisk black eyes, had a ruddiness, which the most florid English rustic would in vain attempt to rival.

Chap. 2. On the summit of Somoonang, a long row of little inscribed flags, fixed in rude heaps of stones, fluttered in the wind; they marked the boundaries of Tibet and Bootan. The distance of Tasisudon from this station ap pears by the route to be about 55 miles, yet as the first part of it lay in a southerly direction, the latitude of the frontier is only a few miles north of the capital.

"If Bootan, compared with Bengal, exhibits a vast contrast of country and climate, there is no nearer analogy between Tibet and Bootan."

"Bootan presents to the view, nothing but the most mishapen ir regularities; mountains covered with eternal verdure, and rich with abundant forests of large and lofty trees. Almost every favourable aspect of them, coated with the

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smallest quantity of soil, is cleared and adapted to cultivation, by being shelved into horizontal beds; not a slope or narrow slip of land between the ridges, lies unim proved. There is scarcely a mountain, whose base is not washed by some rapid torrent, and many of the loftiest, bear populous villages, amidst orchards, and other plantations, on their summits and on their sides.

It combines in its extent, the most extravagant traits of rude nature, and laborious art.”

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vels, and of game, I saw only a
few pheasants, once near Chuka.”

The Tibetians like the Persees
of India neither inhume nor burn
their dead; their bodies are ex-
posed in the open air, and left to
be devoured by ravens, kites, and
other carnivorous birds. A place
appropriated to this purpose, was
seen on descending the mountain
of Somoonang into the plain of
Phari. The fortress of Phari and
its extensive suburb was left on the
west, whilst our travellers pro-
ceeded to Chassa Goombah, where
they were received by the Lama.
A rocky plain intersected by num-
berless streams, extended on every
side: the mountains which bound
it are the retreat of the musk deer,
an animal which delights in the
most intense cold, and is always
found in places bordering on snow.
They are about the height of a
moderately sized hog, which they
resemble much in the figure of the
body; they have a small head, a
thick and round hind quarter, no
scut, and extremely delicate limbs.
The long hair with which it is
covered, partakes in its texture,
less of the nature of hair than fea-
thers; or rather, it resembles the
porcupine's quill. Two long curved
tusks proceed from the upper jaw,
and are directed downwards, the
musk is a secretion formed in a
little bag, or tumour, resembling
a wen, situated at the navel; and
is found only in the male. Num-
bers of wild horses were seen at a
distance; they were very shy, but
our auther could distinguish long
ears, like those of an ass, or mule;
the ears, neck, body and tail, were
of a fawn colour; the face, belly,
and legs almost white. Here our
travellers appear to have attained
their greatest elevation, for after
passing a river, which shapes its
course towards Nepal, those they
afterwards

Tibet, on the other hand, strikes a traveller, at first sight, as one of the least favoured countries under heaven, and appears to be in a great measure incapable of culture. It exhibits only low rocky hills, without any visible vegetation, or extensive arid plains, both of the most stern and stubborn aspect, promising full as little as they produce. Its climate is cold and bleak in the extreme, from the severe effects of which, the inhabitants are obliged to seek refuge in sheltered valleys, and hollows, or amidst the warmest aspects of the rocks. Yet perhaps, Providence, in its impartial distribution of blessings, has bestowed on each country a tolerably equal share. The advantages that one possesses in fertility, and in the richness of its forests and its fruits, are amply counterbalanced in the other by its multitudinous flocks, and invaluable mines. As one seems to possess the pabulum of vegetable, in the other, we find a superabundance of animal, life. The variety and quantity of wild fowl, game, and beasts of prey, flocks, droves and herds, in Tibet, are astonishing. In Bootan, except domestic creatures, nothing of the sort is to be seen. I recol lect meeting with no wild animal except the monkey, in all my tra

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afterwards meet with, all ran in a northerly direction. After leaving the sterile plain of Phari, the small village of Dochai was the first station; from hence the lake of Ramchieu skirted the road, frequented by great abundance of wild geese, ducks, teal, and storks, with prodigious numbers of sau, At Chalu, appeared the first traces of successful cultivation; beyond it they crossed a plain white with incrustations of matron (soda), which rises in an efflorescence from the dry plains, resembling a hoar frost. The village of Sumdta lay 14 miles farther, where a few willows were the first trees observed in Tibet.

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Chap. 3 conducts us from thence to Teshoo Loomboo, following the course of the Painomtchieu, which at the latter place unites with the Berhampooter; at Gangamaar, they found a concourse of invalids attracted by the medicinal vistues of its hot well, which raised the thermometer from 44° to 15. Rocks split by the frost covered the adjacent plains with their fragments; a gigantic figure of their mahamoonie was carved in relief upon an immense stone. From Shoohoo the country assumed a much more favourable aspect; the village of Naince presented the appearance of regular buildings, some of them bordered, others striped with red and partly hid by branches of willows. The castle of Jhansu-Jeung rises in the midst of an extensive valley, which tradition and observation concur to prove had been once a lake. A considerable manufac ture of coarse woollen cloths exercises the industry of the inhabi tants; abundant crops of ripe corn bordered the road, and numerous clusters of villages were scattered on each side. From Dukque to

Teshoo Loomboo is a distance of only ten miles, and our travellers reached the latter place at sunrise. "If its magnificence was to be increased by any external cause, none could more superbly have adorned its numerous gilded canopies and turrets, than the sun rising in full splendour directly opposite. It presented a view wonderfully beautiful and brilliant; the effect was little short of magic, and it made an impression, which no time will ever ettace from my mind.

"We ascended by a narrow street through the middle of the monastery, and were conducted ta very splendid apartments, bright with gay colours, and situated in the centre of the palace, amidst a profusion of gorgeous finery. At the instant of our entrance, we heard the deep tone of many norous instruments, which were summoning the religious to their morning orisons."

50

Chap. 4. Our travellers were now lodged in the palace built by the late Lama; their reception by the Regent was marked by much urbanity; he expatiated on the friendship which the Lama enter tained for the English, which was equally strong now as in his last incarnation, though his infant years denied expression to his sentiments. The presence chamber was supported by pillars painted with vermilion, and ornamented with gold, representing symboli cal devices. The walls were painted blue; the floor was composed of brown and white flint, and admitted of a high polish. The throne of the late Teshoo Lama, elevated about five feet from the floor, stood at one end, decorated with silks, and cushions of yellow sattin, before which tapers were constantly burnt, which filled the

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hall with aromatic odours. Cap-
tain Turner's arrival happened at
a period of high importance in the
annals of Tibet, for the infant
Lama was about to be removed
from the house of his parents to
the monastery of Terpaling, on
which occasion he was to receive
the first public recognition of his
sacred character. The ceremony
was conducted with suitable
pomp, and a party of Chinese
troops escorted the procession, by
command of the Emperor. The
influence of the Chinese officers
was manifestly hostile to the mis-
sion of the English embassador,
and that influence though founded
entirely on fear, was still more
considerable at the court of Lassa,
though the Tibetians are said to
consider the Chinese as a gross
and impure race of men.

high piles of their sacred books."
The shell or covering of the pyras
mid, which constitutes the exterior
of the mausoleum, is a structure,
when viewed at some distance,
of considerable magnitude and
beauty. The pillar, scolloped
arch, and pediment of Hindustan,,
prevail in the interior apartments;
the external decorations are of
Chinese, or Tartar origin, similar ·
to those of the watch-tower, or
temple of the former; the tented
canopy and imperial dragon. in
the centre of the front, on a
tablet, the mystic sentence oons
maunie paimee oom, is engraved.
A frieze and whitened cornice sur-
rounds the top; and a spacious
tented canopy, richly gilt, which
is supposed to stand immediately
over the remains of the Lama,
crowns the whole structure; its
edges swell with a bold and easy
sweep, the convolutions of the
Chinese dragon fill up the space of
the ridge, and a prodigious num
ber of small bells hung round it,
make an inconceivable jingle with
every breeze that blows.

Chap. 5, contains an animated and perspicuous description of the splendid mausoleum, which contains the remains of the late Teshoo Lama. The court-yard before it was paved, and surrounded with a colonnade, for the accommodation of the pious; the pillars were painted with vermilion, and ornamented with gilding. In the centre a large gate opened to the principal avenue of the monastery; two ponderous doors being thrown open, discovered a most beautiful pyramid, at the base of which the body of the Lama was deposited in a coffin of pure gold. An ef figy of gold crowns the pyramid, before which incense is burnt; the sides of the pyramid were encased with plates of solid silver, and on each step were piled the most costly articles. "Another image of the Lama of solid silver, as large as life stood on the right side; offerings of fruits, flowers, and corn were placed on an altar in front; and on the floor were

Chap. 6. is occupied with a long and amusing account of his interviews with the Regent, previously to his leaving the capital. Capt. Turner found him particu larly inquisitive on geographical points, and to have formed a more extensive acquaintance with distant countries than might have been expected. In common with the rest of his countrymen he entertained a profound veneration for the places held sacred by the Hindus, Gaya, Allahabad, Be nares, and Ganga-sagar. The late Empress of Russia attempted to establish an intercourse with Ti bet, for commercial purposes; a bible with plates in the Russian language was exhibited as a present from that sovereign. One

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