from the pasteurizer into sterilized 5-gallon carboys, securely corked, and stored in vaults until it has settled and cleared. Afterward the clear juice is siphoned off, filtered, put into bottles, securely corked, and again pasteurized at a much lower temperature than the previous sterilization. Grape juice or "must" prepared in this way will keep almost indefinitely, if stored in a cool dark place.

In domestic manufacture, heat the grape juice, obtained by any convenient method, in a double boiler, always below 200° F., and then put into a glass or enameled vessel to settle for twentyfour hours. Then carefully decant the juice, pour it through several thicknesses of flannel, and fill into clean bottles. Set the bottles into water in a large boiler, as for canning fruit (see p. 224), and when the water begins to simmer, take out the bottles, cork securely, and seal with wax.

The composition of "Must or Grape Juice," as given by Munson1 is as follows:

In Turkey, a considerable part of the annual vintage, is concentrated by boiling the juice, and this product is used as a sirup. In California 550 tons of sirup, 350 tons of oil and over 400 tons of 1 California Expt. Sta. Bull. No. 130.

tanning extract and 1600 to 2000 tons of cattle feed, are annually obtained from the grape. The oil which is extracted from the seeds by the use of benzine, is used by painters and soap manufacturers, the oil cake is ground and macerated with water to extract a tanning extract, and the residue is the cattle feed.

WINE

The making of wine dates from the earliest historical times. Even "Noah planted a vineyard and drank of the wine thereof,"1 and this beverage was prized by the Hebrews, Greeks, Romans, and later by the Spaniards, French, Italians and Germans.

The quality of a wine is dependent not only on the variety of grapes from which it is made, but on the methods of making and storing, locality, soil, temperature and even the weather.

Wine Making

In making wine great care is exercised that the grapes should be fully ripe, and free from any that are imperfect. The juice is expressed by "treading and pressing." (Fig. 45.) The juice is run into tanks where the fermentation is induced by various yeasts and other organisms which are found associated with the fruit or on the skins. One of the most important of these is the yeast known as saccharomyces ellipsoidens. After the fermentation has been allowed to continue for several weeks, the liquid is drawn off from the "lees," filtered, clarified, and put in bottles or other vessels for storage in cool cellars. Here a second fermentation usually occurs, and the wine is greatly improved in flavor and "bouquet," by the formation of various fragrant esters and ethers.

In the process of fermentation the dextrose and levulose of the grape juice is broken up as follows:

The potassium bitartrate (KHC4H4O2) which is one of the constituents of the grape juice, is less soluble in alcohol than in water, and as the per cent. of alcohol increases during the fermentation, the "argol" as it is called or crude potassium bitartrate is deposited in the bottom of the cask. This deposit when purified is the source of the "cream of tartar" and tartaric acid of the market.

It is a well known fact that wine has been more highly prized as a beverage than cider or the juice of other fruits. This is accounted for by the fact that wine is constantly improving during fermentation by the deposit of the "argols," while the juice of other fruits contains the salts of such acids as malic and citric, which are soluble in the alcoholic solutions, and are consequently not deposited. In the latter therefore the roughness and harshness of the beverage is not decreased.

The alcoholic strength of wines continues to increase during fermentation up to about sixteen per cent., if sufficient sugar was present, but further fermentation is inhibited at this point by the

presence of so much alcohol. Wines containing higher percentages of alcohol are said to be "Fortified;" that is more alcohol has been added to them. If all the sugar has been used up in fermentation the wine is said to be "dry," but if some sugar still remains it is a "sweet" wine. If the wine has been inclosed in strong bottles before the sugar was all used up, the carbon dioxide is retained in the wine under pressure, and a "Champagne" or effervescent wine is the result. If the carbon dioxide has been allowed to escape, the product is known as a "still" wine.

The best known foreign wines contain from ten to twentythree per cent. of alcohol by volume. Some of those in most common use abroad are, Claret, a mild French wine; Sherry, a wine high in alcohol which came originally from Spain; Port, also high in alcohol and named from the city of Oporto in Portugal; Hock, a light Rhine wine; Moselle, a light wine coming from the valley of the Moselle in Germany; and Chianti a light wine produced in Tuscany and northern Italy. American wines are similar to the different "types" just mentioned. The use of wine is discussed under Alcohol, p. 147.

Since the adoption of the prohibitory amendment there is a radical change in the vine industries of California and some other States. More attention is paid to the raising of grapes for shipping, and for making raisins, grape juice and similar products.

BRANDY

Brandy is a spirit distilled from wine. Frequently low grade' wines are used for this purpose. The distillation is carried on in a "pot still" to which is attached a worm surrounded by cold water, for condensing the distillate. Brandy is "aged" by being stored in wooden casks for several years. In this process the product becomes colored by the wood, and various aromatic ethers and aldehydes are developed, which improve the flavor. Brandy contains about 50 per cent. of alcohol by volume.

CHAPTER X

BERRIES, GARDEN AND MISCELLANEOUS FRUITS

BERRIES

Berries are peculiar in consisting of a mass of seeds, surrounded by a pulp which is often quite watery as in the raspberry, although sometimes firm and solid as in the gooseberry. This juice is often little else than a solution of sugars, pectin, mineral salts, acids and flavoring ethers, frequently highly colored. On this account the juice of berries is the most valuable portion, as the abundant seeds have no food value for man. They act as an irritant in the alimentary canal, and are a frequent cause of constipation, if the berries are eaten freely. The fiber and seed of some small seeded berries, like the blackberry, make up only about 5 per cent., while in the black raspberry it constitutes a much larger percentage.

There is not the evidence of so great an improvement produced in berries by cultivation, as in some other fruits, and flavor is sometimes sacrificed to size. No one will deny, however, that the garden variety of strawberry, black cap, red raspberry, and blackberry has many advantages over the wild or uncultivated variety.

A general description of berries has already been given. Most of them with the exception of strawberries are grown on low bushes or small trees. As to their original habitat the blueberries, blackberries, cranberries, currants (red and black), dewberries, gooseberries, huckleberries or whortleberries, mulberries, raspberries (red and black), service berries and strawberries grow wild, many of them over vast areas in the United States. In the Eastern Hemisphere also many of these berries have been known in a wild state from earliest times.