ingly rough. The valley of this part of the Gila is the same in appearance as that of the Colorado; the soil seems to be more sandy, and contains more alkaline matter; a white efflorescence covers nearly the whole surface. Little grass grows excepting in spots subject to overflow. The same freshet which molested us so much at the initial point here proved a benefit, as we were only able to find grazing where the river had risen over its banks. I have been told by those who frequently travel along this part of the river, that you may not be fortunate enough once in twenty years to find more than a little bunch-grass, and that only by driving your animals to the plains, four or five miles back from the river. By constant search, we discovered sufficient for our purposes. The growth does not vary much. For the first time, we see the "cereus giganteus," as it rises fifteen or twenty feet above the head. One hundred and forty miles above the junction we pass a place called "Tezotal.” Several miles before reaching it you find limestone rock intermingled with seams of trap. Here the river makes a large bend to the north, and the road pursues a direct course over a jornada of forty miles without water, until you reach the Maricopa wells. After leaving these wells you again travel for twenty-nine miles along and occasionally touching the river; you also pass through several Indian villages of the Pimos and Maricopas. The former are further advanced in the art of agriculture, and are surrounded with more comforts, than any uncivilized Indian tribe I have ever seen. Besides being great warriors, they are good husbandmen and farmers, and work laboriously in the field. The women are very industrious, not only attending to their household duties, but they also work superior baskets, cotton blankets, belts, balls, &c. Their huts are very comfortable, being of an oval shape, not very high, built of reeds and mud, and thatched with tule or wheat-straw. They are the owners of fine horses and mules, fat oxen and milch cows, pigs and poultry, and are a wealthy class of Indians. The Pimos consider themselves the regular descendants of the Aztecs, and claim "Montezuma to have been of their tribe. One of their legends speaks of his leaving them on horseback on his prilgrimage to found a new country. As the Aztecs in all human probability never saw any horses until their introduction into Mexico by the Spaniards, this seems to be a fabrication. The Aztecs, too, had a form of religious service, but the Pimos to this day have none. As we journeyed along this portion of the valley of the Gila we found lands fenced in, and irrigated by many miles of acequias, and our eyes were gladdened with the sight of rich fields of wheat ripening for the harvest-a view differing from anything we had seen since leaving the Atlantic States. They grow cotton, sugar, peas, wheat, and corn; from the last two, parched and ground, they make a meal, which, mixed with water, forms a cooling and palatable drink. From the large emigration passing through they have learned the value of American coin, and you can use it in the purchase of anything. Encamping one day at the village of their principal chief, "Cola Azul," a swarm of them soon infested the camp, bringing different articles for sale or barter. In a short time we had laid in a large supply of corn, much needed for our poor worn-out mules. A little hillock stands near the village, used as a look-out, from which you have a beautiful view of rich cultivated fields. As I sat upon a rock, admiring the scene before me, an old grey-headed Pimo took great pleasure in pointing out the extent of their domains. They were anxious to know if their rights and titles to lands would be respected by our government, upon learning that their country had become part of the United States. From the Gila to Tucson-a military colony of the Mexicans on the extreme frontier-is a second jornada, seventy miles in extent. Near the middle of it you pass a detached sierrra called "Picacho," or peak, an upheaval of volcanic rocks. Tinajas are here found which remain filled with water for short periods after the rainy season. Several miles before reaching Tucson you strike the bed of the Santa Cruz river, but the stream is subterraneous until you reach the town. The latter is inhabited by a few Mexican troops and their families, together with some tame Apache Indians. It is very prettily situated in a fine fertile valley at the base of the Sierra de Santa Catarina. Some fine fields of wheat and corn were ready for the sickle. Many varieties of fruit and all kinds of vegetables were also to be had, upon which we indulged our long-famished appetites. The Apaches, under the direction of the Mexicans, do most of the labor in the fields. Circumstances were such that my party and escort were compelled to remain encamped near this town for nearly the entire month of June. During this time we became the recipients of every attention and civility from Captain Garcia, who commanded the place, and from his family. We cannnot find words to express our thanks for their uniform kindness and constant efforts to make the time pass pleasantly. The month was judiciously occupied in repairing the train and recruiting the mules. Having learned previously on the Gila of the presence of the commissioner and the parties immediately under his charge at his camp near Los Nogales, sixty-nine miles distant from Tucson, my party was directed to stop, while I continued on to have an interview with him. The road lay in the valley of the Santa Cruz as far as the "Rancho de las Calabasas,' between high mountains. On the east are the Santa Catarina, with its top covered with lofty pines, and the Santa Rita rich in minerals; and on the west are the Sierra Rica and the Sierra Atascosa. A fine specimen of meteoric iron brought from the Santa Rica is to be seen at Tucson, and is used as a blacksmith's anvil. It is massive, and quite malleable. You pass through the towns of San Javier and Tubac, and the mission of Tomocacari. The first place has been ceded by the Mexicans to the Papago Indians. A beautiful church, with its exterior walls richly ornamented, carved, and stuccoed, and the interior handsomely decorated and painted in bright colors, with many paintings in fresco, still stands as a monument to the zealous labor and religious enthusiasm of the Jesuits of the past century. Tubac is a deserted village. The wild Apache lords it over this region, and the timid husbandman dare not return to his home. The mission of Tomocacari, another fine structure of the mother church, stands, too, in the midst of rich fields; but fear prevents its habitation, save by two or three Germans, who have wandered from their distant fatherland to this out of the way country. Leaving the Santa Cruz river at the rancho, and following up the pretty little valley of Los Nogales for several miles, brought me to the camp of the United States commissioner. It was a gratifying sight, and refreshing to the senses, as I traversed these valleys, to see them clothed with rich green verdure, and contrast them with the bleached barrenness of the Colorado and Gila. On my arrival, I found the observations for determining the latitude and longitude of the intersection of the parallel and meridian nearly completed, under the order of the United States commissioner, and, a short time after, a pyramidal monument of dressed stone was erected to mark its position. At this point Mr. Jimenez and myself again commenced operations, on the 26th of June, to trace and mark the azimuth line running westward. By this time there were some indications of the commencement of the rainy reason, for which we had been anxiously waiting. At any other period of the year it would have been impossible to attempt this section of the work, as there is little or no permanent water in the neighborhood of or along the whole length of this line of two hundred and thirty-seven miles. Whilst the work was progressing, Lieut. Patterson moved with the escort and train from Tucson, via Tubac and Sopori, to Aribaca. Ojo del Agua de Sopori is a spring, twelve miles from Tubac, in a westerly direction; it once irrigated the valley of the same name, which was cultivated by Mexicans. We found a solitary peach tree, loaded with fruit, and signs of acequias, relics of other days. The stream is a small and pretty one. A league from it, in the Sierra Atascosa, rich mines of copper, silver, and gold, are said to exist. Its mineral resources have not yet been thoroughly examined, on account of the Apache Indians. Only the night before reaching "Sopori," a large party of them passed within a short distance of our camp, driving before them a drove of horses and mules. Within a day's ride of Tubac, through the "Sonora Pass," they have large herds of these, together with cattle and milch cows. Eighteen miles and a half from "Sopori" (an Indian name) you reach a deserted Mexican rancho, in the valley of Aribaca; the latter is narrow, lying east and west, and bounded by high granite hills, limited on the east by the Sierra del Pais. These are all said to be rich in mineral wealth. Within four miles, and south of the deserted rancho, are to be found large excavations made by men previously engaged in mining; piles of metallic ore lay near the springs where they had been engaged in smelting. The valley was mantled with rich green pasturage; immediately bordering it are hills covered with fine grama grass and a low growth of mezquite. Numerous springs lie concealed among the tule, with here and there a willow or a cotton-wood to mark their localities. A mule trail runs south from this place to Tubutama, a small town in Sonora, crossing the line about thirteen miles from Aribaca, and within four miles of the "Ojos Escondidos," lying at the base of the sierra of that name. To the northwest is a range of mountains crowned with a high peak of solid rock, called by the Papago Indians "Baboquivari," or "Water on the Mountain;" in winter it is covered with snow and ice, although at its base lies the "Tierra Caliente." It is a most prominent and unmistakeable land-mark, and during the triangulation of the line was of the greatest service, as it could be seen from different points more than one hundred miles apart. The main escort and train remained in camp at Aribaca until near the middle of August. A few men, under Mr. C. Michler, were sent west to Sonoyta with supplies to re-provision the party on the line, and to make a reconnoissance of the road made by the wagons from Tubac to that place. Lieutenant Closson, with twelve men, formed their escort. Mr. Jiminez and Mr. Alemán accompanied them, for the purpose of going to Quitobaquita to establish its astronomical position, according to agreement entered into with the United States commissioner. The sierras to the west were reported to be detached, and not continuous, so that, by winding around their bases, a good, although circuitous wagon road might be found; between them are generally broad and level valleys. The heavy rains in that direction offered great hopes of an abundance of water on the road. Having shown the movements of the different parties, I return to the party on the line. This was necessarily very small on account of the anticipated scarcity of water. To reduce as much as possible the size of the pack-train, there were no more men employed than were absolutely necessary to do the work, without any regard to protection or defence against the Indians. Leaving the "Potrero" in the valley of Los Nogales, where my party had been encamped for a few days, we started for the monument at the intersection of the parallel 31° 20', and the 111th meridian. Our trail led up a pretty little valley towards the west for eight miles, when we reached the base of the "Sierra de los Pajaritos" (the Mountain of Little Birds ;) following up one of the arroyos or gullies of this chain, we were soon locked in on all sides by high hills; the ravine through which we continued to wind for four miles became rocky, narrow, and difficult to pass, until we reached some small springs, "Los Ojos de Alizos." At this point we left the arroyo, and by clambering up a steep ascent gained the crest of the hills; riding or walking along it as best we could, and passing from hill to hill, each higher as we advanced, we finally reached the point where the monument stands. The hill on the side of which it is erected is low compared to the high peaks in its immediate vicinity; its locality is not easily discovered. Our instrument being placed in position, the azimuth of the new line (69° 19' 45.9" northwest) was measured from a meridian established by assistant Clark; a large live-oak growing on the adjoining ridge was found to be in the direction of the line, and answered the purpose of a monument, (No. XIX from the Rio Colorado.) Señor A. Diaz, with a party, operated conjointly with us in the prolongation of this line. As if in response to our earnest wishes for rain, to be able to continue the work, we had scarcely commenced our labors before the heavens poured down refreshing showers, which we saw with pleasure extended along the line. The commencement of the rainy season is in reality the beginning of spring. The vegetation during the actual months of spring and summer is so parched by the excessively hot suns, that the country present the same appearance as is produced by the effects of frost in our more northern climates. The seeds seem to rest in the earlier part of the season, in order to germinate and beautify the autumn and winter. "The Sierra de los Pajaritos" is said to form part of the Arizone mountains, reported to be the richest in Mexico. Many specimens of copper, gold and silver are found on the surface, and they are no doubt rich in ore. The hills are covered with live-oak trees, and are overspread with a rich growth of grama grass; they are capped by masses of conglomerate rocks. Monument XVIII, distant from XIX, a little over three miles, is situated on the same sierra. The country here presents a new aspect. Powerful volcanic irruptions have at some earlier period of the world's history produced great disturbances in this part of the earth. Strata of limestone once horizontal, are now curved and bent by the force of this action, and masses of igneous rocks have been upheaved through the fissures opened on the surface. Here you find granite rocks, and near them beds of trap; and not far from both, limestone; then again all fused in one conglomeration. It was impossible to approach the station nearer than three miles. with the riding and pack mules; the instruments had to be transported by hand for that distance up a rugged hill covered with vesicular and scoriaceous rocks. Monument XVII is placed on the "Sierra de Sonora," seventeen miles from XVIII. Three days were occupied in travelling this short distance. The trail for the first two was over almost impassable mountains; massive rocks and steep precipices constantly impeded the progress of and turned the party out of its course, making the route circuitous as well as hazardous; rough ascents were surmounted, steep ravines followed down, and deep gullies passed; the mules had actually to be dragged along. At the end of the second day the party found some small springs-"Los Ojos Escondidos"-on the trail to Tubutama, and encamped on them. On the third, the trail was still over high hills, but not so difficult; and some springs-"Los Ojos de Granizo"-a short distance from the monument, were reached. The animals had become so injured and lame by the sharp angular rocks, that they had to be taken into Aribaca to be reshod, and many of them to be replaced by others. |