INVERNESS TO FORT WILLIAM, GLENCOE, &c.

Inverness to Drumdrochet Inn

Drumdrochet to Invermorriston

Miles.

14

111

Invermorriston to Fort Augustus

Inverness to General's Hut by east side of Loch

Ness

18 miles
14

64

14

151

14

If the tourist has visited Inverness by the steamboat conveyance on the canal just described, it will vary his route to return by land. There are roads which lead by the eastern and western banks of Loch Ness, both meeting at Fort Augustus. The eastern is the old military road, and if the Fall of Foyers has not been already visited, this route should be preferred. If, however, this highly imposing sight has been viewed by the steam-boat trip, the western shores of the loch are preferable. Almost the whole way the bold projecting sides of the mountains are richly hung with the light and airy foliage of the birch, and the valleys covered with profusion of simple and natural vegetation. After leaving Inverness the road, for six miles, passes many gentlemen's seats.

On the left. Bught (Grant) Delcroy,

On the right. Kinmylies (Baillie) Dochfour (Baillie) Belladrum (Stewart).

Obriachan woods are next passed, and at Drumdrochet Inn, where the road takes a sweep to the right, the opening into the rich and beautiful Glen Urquhart is displayed, through which flow two streams,

the Enneric and the Coltie, discharging the water of two small lakes to the westward into the great reservoir of Loch Ness.

Balmacaen is seen on the right, the residence of Col. Grant of Grant, to whose family the glen belongs.

Urquhart Castle, a very ancient stronghold, once in possession of the Cummings, stands on a rocky eminence on the banks of the loch. This castle was of considerable extent, and was capable of containing 600 men at arms. It is now in ruins. The road now winds along the base of Mealfourvonie, a mountain 3000 feet high.

Invermorriston, the next stage, is situated at the opening of another romantic glen of the same name, richly wooded, with a stream, the Morriston, which derives its source from a loch to the westward, flowing through it. This stream is crossed by a twoarched bridge. There is here also a waterfall before the river joins the lake at Craig Kinian or the Giant's Rock. Near this fall is the family-seat of the Grants of Glenmorriston, and on the opposite side of the river a considerable village. A road passes directly westward from this place through Glenelg, on the western shores of the mainland, from whence is a short passage to the Isle of Skye. A ferry here also leads across Loch Ness to the Fall of Foyers.

Fort Augustus.-This place is reached after passing some quarries on the right, and a bridge across the canal which here communicates with the loch. This deserted stronghold has already been briefly alluded

to.

The road now passes along the eastern banks of the canal, till it reaches Loch Oich. The banks here are

finely wooded, and Glengarry opening up on the opposite side, with the ancient fortress and modern mansion of the chief of that name, present a varied and beautiful view. The old castle of Invergarry is finely situated, on a bold promontory. It is now a ruin, having been destroyed in 1746.

Letter Finlay Inn.-This stage is situated on the banks of Loch Lochy, with Glen Gluoy to the eastward. On the opposite side of the loch, which is richly wooded, is seen Glasterd House. The road now passes for several miles through the bleak district of Lochaber. At High Bridge the Spean, a rapid mountain-stream, is crossed. Here there is a road that leads eastward to Glenroy, which is remarkable for its parallel roads, a series of tracks formed on the mountain sides, and conjectured to have been worn thus by the action of ancient lakes, which have been, by some natural changes of the country, drained away. The river Lochy is now crossed, with the ruins of Inverlochy Castle, a very ancient place, on the left, and the tourist enters

Fort-William.-This fort was originally constructed in the time of the Commonwealth, by General Monk, in a temporary manner, and garrisoned with 2000 men. After the revolution it was rebuilt on a smaller scale. During the rebellions of 1715 and 1745 it was besieged by the Highland army, but withstood their attacks. The adjoining village is called Gordonsburgh. The scenery around is rather wild and desolate. BenNevis forms the most conspicuous object, and guides may be obtained to direct the ascent to the summit of this mountain.

Corran Ferry is nine miles from Fort William, the

road leading along the banks of Loch Linne. Five miles farther on, a ferry across Loch Leven leads to

Ballahulish Inn.-The situation of this place is highly romantic. The road now leads eastward passing the extensive slate-quarries of Ballahulish, through the celebrated valley of

the moun

Glencoe. This is a narrow gorge among tains, formed apparently as if some tremendous force had severed them asunder. Huge piles and pinnacles of dark brown rock frown on each side to the height of 3000 feet, approaching, in some places, so near as if they were about to fall again together. Dark shade and utter solitude and silence prevail, and not an animated object breaks in upon the gloom unless occasionally the flight of the eagle from its eyrie. As if nature had not completed the awful sublimity of this scene, man has stamped upon it moral impressions which thousands of centuries can never efface. The "Massacre of Glencoe" is a tragedy too well known ; but the following succinct account may not be out of place here:

"In the beginning of the year 1692, an action of unexampled barbarity disgraced the government of King William III. in Scotland. In the August preceding, a proclamation had been issued, offering an indemnity to such insurgents as should take the oaths to the King and Queen, on or before the last day of December; and the chiefs of such tribes as had been in arms for James, soon after took advantage of the proclamation. But Macdonald of Glencoe was prevented by accident, rather than design, from tendering his submission within the limited time. In the end of December he went to Colonel Hill, who commanded the garrison in Fort William, to take the oaths of allegiance to the government; and the latter having furnished him with a letter to Sir Colin Campbell, Sheriff of the county of Argyle, directed him to repair immediately to Inverary, to make his submission in a legal manner before that magistrate. But the way to Inverary lay through almost impassable mountains, the season was extremely rigorous, and the whole country was covered with a deep snow. So eager, however, was Macdonald to take the oaths before the limited time should expire, that, though the road lay within half a mile of his own house, he stopped not to visit his family, and, after various obstructions, arrived at Inverary. The time had elapsed, and the sheriff hesitated to receive his submission; but Macdonald prevailed by his importunities, and even tears, in inducing that functionary to administer to him the oath of allegiance, and to certify the cause of his delay. At this time Sir John Dalrymple, afterwards Earl of Stair, being in attendance upon William as Secretary of State for Scotland, took advantage of Macdonald's neglecting to take the oath within the time prescribed, and procured from the King a warrant of military execution against that chief and his whole clan. This

was done at the instigation of the Earl of Breadalbane, whose lands the Glencoe men had plundered, and whose treachery to government in negotiating with the Highland clans, Macdonald himself had exposed. The king was accordingly persuaded that Glencoe was the main obstacle to the pacification of the Highlands; and the fact of the unfortunate chief's submission having been concealed, the sanguinary orders for proceeding to military execution against his clan were in consequence obtained. The warrant was both signed and countersigred by the King's own hand, and the Secretary urged the officers who commanded in the Highlands to execute their orders with the utmost rigour. Campbell of Glenlyon, a captain in Argyle's regiment, and two subalterns, were ordered to repair to Glencoe on the first of February with a hundred and twenty men. Campbell being uncle to young Macdonald's wife, was received by the father with all manner of friendship and hospitality. The men were lodged at free quarters in the houses of his tenants, and reIceived the kindest entertainment. Till the 13th of the month the troops lived in the utmost harmony and familiarity with the people; and on the very night of the massacre, the officers passed the evening at cards in Macdonald's house. In the night, Lieutenant Lindsay, with a party of soldiers, called in a friendly manner at his door, and was instantly admitted. Macdonald, while in the act of rising to receive his guest, was shot dead through the back with two bullets. His wife had already dressed; but she was stripped naked by the soldiers, who tore the rings off her fingers with their teeth. The slaughter now became general, and neither age nor infirmity was spared. Some women, in defending their children, were killed: boys imploring mercy were shot dead by the officers on whose knees they hung. In one place nine persons, as they sat enjoying themselves at table, were butchered by the soldiers. In Inverriggon, Campbell's own quarters, nine men were first bound by the soldiers, and then shot at intervals, one by one. Nearly forty persons were massacred by the troops; and several who fled to the mountains perished by famine and the inclemency of the season. Those who escaped owed their lives to a tempestuous night. Lieutenant-Colonel Hamilton, who had received the charge of the execution from Dalrymple, was on his march with four hundred men, to guard all the passes from the valley of Glencoe; but he was obliged to stop by the severity of the weather, which proved the safety of the unfortunate clan. Next day he entered the valley, laid the houses in ashes, and carried away the cattle and spoil, which were divided among the officers and soldiers.-Encyc. Britannica.

Glencoe is said to have been the birth-place of Ossian. Dun Fion, or Fingal's Hill, raises its summit on the north, and from a lake in the centre issues "Cona's stream," so frequently alluded to by the poet. The east end of the valley is hemmed in by a steep mountain called Buchael-Etive, the ascent of which is called the Devil's Staircase. By this road the tourist may travel along the Etive water, and by the banks of the loch of the same name till he join the road from Loch Awe at Taynuilt, from thence he may proceed to Oban; or following the south-eastward route by King's House, proceed to Tyndrum at the head of Strath Fillan, and make the tour of the Perthshire lakes and scenery.