TOUR V.

OBAN TO MULL, STAFFA, AND IONA.

From Oban steam-boats sail regularly in the summer months, touching at Lismore, Mull, Staffa, Iona, &c. so that an opportunity is afforded of visiting those singularly interesting islands. To the tourist, however, who desires a more minute inspection and longer time, passage-boats may readily be procured to Mull, and through this island roads lead to ferries where other boats are in attendance to sail to the

neighbouring isles.* The Hebrides or Western Islands consist of several groups of various sizes, amounting altogether to about 300, 86 of which are inhabited, and the amount of population has been estimated at 70,000. These islands appear to have been originally peopled by a colony of the ancient Gael, and for a long series of years they kept themselves a distinct and independent people. In the ninth century they were conquered by the Danes and Norwegians, who, establishing themselves among the islands, led the life of pirates and freebooters, to the annoyance of the neighbouring nations. In the thirteenth century these islands were joined to the kingdom of

*

"There was a time when this was a heroic undertaking, and when the return of Samuel Johnson from achieving it was hailed by the Edinburgh literati with 'per varios casus,' and other scraps of classical gratulation, equally new and elegant. But the harvest of glory has been entirely reaped by the early discoverers; and in an age when every London citizen makes Loch Lomond his wash-pot, and throws his shoe over Ben Nevis, a man may endure every hardship and expose himself to every danger of the Highland seas, without gaining a single leaf of laurel for his paius."-Letter of Sir Walter Scott in Life by Lockhart.

Scotland, although their chieftains still maintained a sort of independent power, and down to a late period the Macdonalds of the Isles were the petty sovereigns. The various islands are now distributed among the neighbouring counties of Scotland, and are subject to the same jurisdiction.

Leaving Oban, on the steam-boat trip, the Island of Kerrera is passed. From this island there is a regular ferry across to the opposite harbour of Achnacraig in Mull. On the south point of Kerrera stand the ruins of Castle Gylen. Here Alexander II. landed with a large fleet which he had fitted out against the Danes, but died of a fever before the expedition sailed. From Kerrera the steamer stretches across to the Sound of Mull, having the Island of Lismore on the right. There is a rock seen at low water off this island called the Lady Rock, where Maclean of Duart confined his wife. Campbell's poem of Glenara, and Joanna Baillie's "Family Legend," are both founded on this well known tale.

The Sound of Mull is a narrow channel, having the island of this name on the left, and the district of Morven on the right. The views along this sound are highly interesting. Duart Castle is seen on a headland on the left, the ancient seat of the Macleans. "We passed," writes Sir Walter Scott, "under the Castle of Duart, consisting of one huge (indeed immense) square tower in ruins, and additional turrets and castellated buildings, the work doubtless of Benlora's guardianship, in which the roof still moulders. It overhangs the straight channel from a lofty rock without a single tree in the vicinity, and is surrounded by high and barren mountains, forming altogether as

wild and dreary a scene as I ever beheld. Duart is confronted by the opposite castles of Dunstaffnage, Dunolly, Ardtornish, and others, all were the abodes of grim feudal chiefs who warred incessantly with each other." "* Ardtornish Castle is next passed on the right, on a point of land of the Morven coast. This was the ancient seat of the Lords of Isles, and is thus alluded to by Sir Walter Scott in his poem of that

name:

"Ardtornish on her frowning steep
'Twixt cloud and ocean hung,
Hewn in the rock a passage there
Sought the dark fortress by a stair,

So straight, so high, so steep.

With peasant's staff one valiant hand,
Might well the dizzy pass have manned,
'Gainst hundreds arm'd with spear and brand,

And plung'd them in the deep."

A little way above this ancient ruin, is Ardtornish House (Gregorson). Passing onwards on the same side, is seen the opening of Loch Aline, its shores beautifully wooded. Beyond this is the church of Keill.

Aros is next passed on the left, in the Island of Mull. Here there is an ancient castle which also belonged to the Lords of the Isles, and an inn where the tourist will find accommodation, and from whence he may cross over to Loch-na-Keal on the western shores of the island. The modern mansion of Aros House is in the vicinity.

Tobermory, a considerable village very delightfully situated near the head of the Sound of Mull, is the next place of interest. There is here an excellent

bay sheltered from behind, and protected in front by a small island. The village contains about thirty slated houses besides cottages, and has a considerable trade in supplying the numerous shipping that touch at this place. Here there is a well from which the village derives its name, Tobermory signifying "The Well of our Lady St Mary." There are also the ruins of a chapel and a Norwegian fortification. A beautifull sheet of water called St Mary's Lake, with several cascades, and the mansion-house of Coll, are in the neighbourhood and are worthy of a visit. Leaving Tobermory on the opposite coast, and beyond the opening of Loch Sunart, is seen Ardnamurchan. On a rock elevated 24 feet above the shore, stand the ruins of Mingarry Castle, a stronghold of the M'Ians of the clan Macdonald.

Clearing the point of Ardnamurchan, the ocean opens up its blue expanse, and if the atmosphere be clear the numerous islands now seen scattered over its surface form a scene of unrivalled beauty. To the north lie the islands of Muck, Eig, Rum, and Skye, and westward are seen the more distant groups of North and South Uist, Barra, Harris, and the Lewis. Thse chains of numerous islands have, from their position, been called the Outer Hebrides. They are composed chiefly of gneiss,-are only adapted for the scanty pasturage of cattle; but their shores afford good opportunities for fishing, to which the natives generally look for subsistence. The steamer now turns southwards; Coll and Tiree are passed on the right, while the Treshnish Isles appearing in front, indicate the near approach to Staffa.

Island of Staffa. There is nothing remarkable in the distant view of this small but celebrated island. When we have approached within a quarter of a mile, however, the singular grandeur of this "natural temple" begins to be apparent. It is situated about eight miles from the coast of Mull, is of an irregular oblong figure, and about two miles in circumference. Sailing along the south-eastern side, its basaltic pillars and bulwarks are seen to the best advantage. On the south-west the elevation of the cliffs is greatest, the height here being 144 feet, and the island gradually sloping downwards to the north-east. The island is composed of a base of conglomerated greenstone or tufa, over which rises a greyish-black basalt, shooting up into regular | columns with well defined sides; these pillars are surmounted by other masses of basalt having a confused and irregular columnar structure. Numerous caves are hollowed out all around, and the floors, sides, and arches of these are all formed of

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