it is practicable. The Kafir robbers also issue from the mountains and narrow paths, and infest this passage. The road from Khorasân leads by way of Kandahâr. It is a straight level road, and does not go through any hill-passes. From Hindustan there are four roads which lead up to Kâbul. One of these is by way of the Lamghanât, and comes by the hill of Kheiber, in which there is one short hillpass. Another road leads by Bangash; a third by Naghz,2 and the fourth by Fermul. In all of these roads there are passes of more or less difficulty. Those who come by them cross the river Sind at three different places. Those who go by the Nilâb passage, take the road of Lamghanât. In the winter season, however, they cross the river Sind, the river of Sewâd, and the river of Kâbul, above the conflux of this last river with the Sind. In most of the expeditions which I made into Hindustân, I forded these rivers in this way; but the last time, when I invaded that country, defeated Sultan Ibrâhim and conquered Hindustân, I crossed at the Nilâb passage in boats. Except at the place that has been mentioned, the river Sind can nowhere be passed unless in boats. Those again who cross at Dînkôt take the Bangash road; while those who cross at Choupâreh3 take the road of Fermul, if proceeding to Ghazni, and the road of the desht or plains if they are going to Kandahâr. In the country of Kâbul there are many and various tribes. Its valleys and plains are inhabited by Tûrks, Aimâks, and Arabs. In the city and the greater part of the villages, the population consists of Tâjîks. Many other of the villages and districts are occupied by Pashâis, Parâchis, Tâjîks, Berekis, and Afghâns. In the hill-country to the west, reside the Hazâras and Nukderis. Among the Hazâra and Nukderi tribes, there are some who speak the Moghul language. In the hill-country to the north-east lies Kaferistân, such as Kattor and Gebrek. To the south is Afghanistân. There are eleven or twelve different languages spoken in Kâbul: Arabic, Persian, Tûrki, Mogholi, Hindi, Afghâni, Pashâi, Parâchi, Geberi, Bereki, and Lamghâni. It is dubious whether so many distinct races, and different languages, could be found in any other country. The country of Kâbul is divided into fourteen Tûmans. In Samarkand, Bokhâra, and those quarters, the smaller districts into which a country is divided, are called Tûman in Andejân, Kâshghar, and the neighbouring countries, they get the name of : 1 The Lamghan road is the great road from Kâbul to Peshâwer. The Bangash is explained by its name. ? Naghz, now unknown, seems to have been on the upper course of the Kûrram. Fermul was probably Urghûn, where the Fermulis, a Persian race, still reside. 3 Nilâb stands somewhat lower down the Sind than Attok. The present Nilâb is about 15 miles below Attock. I may remark, that I have not been able to discover any Indian authority previous to the time of Abulfazl, for the Sind being called Nilâb, though it would help to explain an ancient geographical difficulty. Dînkôt is probably at or near the present Khûshialghur, unless its being afterwards mentioned as a northern boundary of Banu should render it probably that it was Kalabagh. The road from Choupâreh to Fermul was probably the direct road through Kaneguram to Urghun. The road of the desht or plain, was no doubt that through Damân, the flat part of which Baber always calls Desht. Choupâreh was probably situated near Kagalwâla on the Kurram. * Kattor or Katar, is a place of note in Kaferistan. Gebrek also lies in the Kâfer country. Urchîn, and in Hindustân they call them Perganah. Although Bajour, Sewâd, Pershâwer, and Hashnaghar,' originally belonged to Kâbul; yet at the present date some of these districts have been desolated, and others of them entirely occupied by the tribes of Afghans, so that they can no longer be properly regarded as provinces. 5 4 nât. On the east lies the Lamghanât,' which comprehends five Tumâns and two Balûks. LamghaThe largest of the Tumâns of Lamghan is Nangenhâr,3 which, in many histories, is written Nekerhâr. The residence of the darogha, or commandant of this district, is Adînapûr. Nangenhâr lies to the east of Kâbul, thirteen farsangs of very difficult road. In three or four places there are some very short kotuls or steep hill-passes, and in two or three places there are narrows or straits. The Khirilchi and other robber Afghân tribes infest this road with their depredations. There was no population along this road till I settled Karatû below the Kuruk-sâi, which rendered the road safe. The Germsîl (or region of warm temperature) is divided from the Serdsîl (or region of cold temperature) only by the steep pass of Badam-cheshmeh." Snow falls on the Kâbul side of this pass, but not on the Kuruk-sâi and Lamghanât side. The moment you descend this hill-pass, you see quite another world. Its timber is different, its grains are of another sort, its animals of a different species, and the manners and customs of the inhabitants are of a different kind. Nangenhâr has nine streams. Its rice and wheat are excellent. Oranges, citrons, and pomegranates, are very abundant, and of good quality. Opposite to the fort of Adînahpûr, to the south, on a rising ground, I formed a charbagh (or great garden), in the year nine hundred and fourteen." It is called Baghe Vafâ (the Garden of Fidelity). It overlooks the river, which flows between the fort and the palace. In the year in which I defeated Behâr Khan and conquered Lahore and Dibâlpûr, I brought plantains and planted them here. They A. H. 930, grew and thrived. The year before I had also planted the sugar-cane in it, which throve remarkably well. I sent some of them to Badakhshân and Bokhâra. It is on an elevated site, enjoys running water, and the climate in the winter season is temperate. In the garden there is a small hillock, from which a stream of water, sufficient to drive a mill, incessantly flows into the garden below. The four-fold field-plot1o of this garden is situated on this eminence. On the south-west part of this garden is a reservoir of water ten gez11 square, which is wholly planted round with orange trees; there are likewise pomegranates. All around the piece of water the ground is quite 1 This place is now always called Heshtnagar. 8 2 A singular proof of the imperfect state in which the geography of those countries long remained is, that Petis de la Croix places Lamghan in Kashmîr.-Hist. de Timur Bec, Vol. II. p. 18. 3 Nangenhår lies along the Kâbul river on the south. It is the Nungnehaura of Mr Elphinstone's map. 4 Upwards of 50 miles. 5 The dry water channel.-Leyden. Perhaps the Park river. 6 i. e. Almond-spring. The Pass of Badam-cheshmeh lies south of the Kâbul river, between Little Kâbul and Barik-âb. 7 Whence it is said to derive its name, which in Afghâni means nine streams. 8 The fort of Adînahpûr is to the south of the Kâbul river. 9 About A. D. 1508. 10 It is usual for the Persians to divide their gardens into four plots by two roads which cross each other. 11 The original has only ten by ten, but the gez is probably the measure understood, which would make it a square of about twenty feet or upwards. A. D. 1524. Tuman of covered with clover. This spot is the very eye of the beauty of the garden. At the time when the orange becomes yellow, the prospect is delightful. Indeed the garden is charmingly laid out. To the south of this garden lies the Koh-e-Sefîd (the White Mountain) of Nangenhâr, which separates Bangash from Nangenhâr. There is no road by which one can pass it on horseback. Nine streams descend from this mountain. The snow on its summit never diminishes, whence probably comes the name of Koh-e-Sefîd' (the White Mountain). No snow ever falls in the dales at its foot. Between the mountain and the garden there may be as much interval as would serve a party to encamp on. On the skirts of this hill there are many airy and beautiful situations. The water which descends from it is naturally so cold, that it does not require ice to cool it. On the south of the fort of Adînaphûr is the Sûrkh-rûd2 (the Red Rivulet). The fort is situated on an eminence, which, towards the river, is forty or fifty gez3 in perpendicular height. On the north there is a detached mass of mountain. The fortress is very strong. This last mountain forms the division between Nangenhâr and the Lamghanât. Whenever it snows at Kâbul, the snow falls also on the top of this mountain, by which means the people of the Lamghanât can tell, from the appearance of its top, when it snows at Kâbul. In travelling from Kâbul to Lamghân, there is one road by which, after passing Kuruk-sâi, you proceed through the steep pass of Debri, and reach the Lamghanât by way of Bûlân. There is another road, by which, crossing Kuruk-sâi lower down than Kurabûk, and passing the river Bârân at Uluk-Nûr, and thence proceeding by the hill-pass of Badij, you come down upon Lamghân. If one travel by the road of Nijrou he passes on by Bedrav, and, proceeding by Karabankerik, falls into the hill-pass of Badij. Though Nangenhâr be spoken of as one of the five Tumâns of Lamghân,10 yet there are only three Tumâns which properly bear the name of Lamghân. 4 8 9 The first of these three is the Tumân of Alisheng," which, on the north, consists of rugged snowy hills that join the mountain of Hindû-kûsh. That mountainous country is entirely in Kaferistân. The part of Kaferistân nearest to Alisheng is Meil; and the river of Alisheng comes down from Meil.12 The tomb of the holy Lâm, the 1 The Koh-e-Sefid is a remarkable position in the geography of Afghanistan. It is seen from Peshawer. 2 The Sûrkh-rûd rises in Sefîd Roh, and runs into the Kâbul river between Jagdelik and Gundomuk. 3 A hundred feet or upwards. * A friend to whose observations on Baber's geography of Afghanistan I have been much indebted, remarks, "The change of names here is astonishing. I have many routes in Lumghân, one in particular, by the way of Nijrow here referred to, and yet I cannot discover one place of those here mentioned, unless the kotal of Badij be allowed any resemblance to Bâdpash (by changing the diacritical points). Bâdpash is a steep kotal, half a day's journey to the north of Undroor on the Caubul river, and about 16 or 18 miles west of Turgurree, where the streams of Alingår and Alisheng join." Leyden has Beri. ́ Rain river.-Leyden. 10 In this route they proceed by the north side of the Kâbul or Baran river. 8 Uluk-Nûr.-The Great Light.-Leyden. Leyden reads Bazar; Mr Elphinstone's Turki copy has Bezrav. Lamghân is now always called Laghmân. 11 The two streams which form the glens of Alisheng and Alingar, coming from the north, unite above Mandraur, and fall into the Kâbul river below that place. 12 Now called Kilai Akheri. father of Nûh,' is in the Tumân of Alisheng. In some histories, the holy Lâm is denominated Lamek and Lamekân. The people of that country have a general practice of changing the letter Kaf into Ghain, and it seems very probable that the name Lamghân originated from that circumstance. The second Tumân is Alingâr. The part of Kaferistân that is nearest to Alingâr Alingår. is Gewâr, and the river of Alingâr comes down from Gewâr. These two rivers, after passing through Alisheng and Alingâr, unite with each other, and afterwards fall into the river Bârân, below the third Tumân, which is called Mendrâur. 2 3 Of the two Balûks which have been mentioned, one is Dereh-Nûr 3 (the Valley of Dereh-Nûr. Light), which is an uncommonly fine tract. The fort is situated at the entrance of the valley, on the projecting point of a mountain, and washed by a river on both of its sides. The grounds are chiefly laid out in rice-fields, and can be passed only by the high road. It has the orange, the citron, and the fruits of a warm climate. It has likewise a few date trees. The banks of the river, which flows on the two sides of the fort, are quite covered with trees; the most abundant of which is the chob-amluk, which the Tûrks generally name karayemûsh. This fruit is very abundant in the Dereh-Nûr, but is found nowhere else. It has also grapes, all of which they grow upon trees. The wine of Dereh-Nûr is famous over all the Lamghanât. It is of two kinds, which they term areh-tâshi (the stone-saw), and suhân-tashi (the stone-file). The stone-saw is of a yellowish colour; the stone-file, of a fine red. The stone-saw, however, is the better wine of the two, though neither of them equals their reputation. Higher up, at the head of the glens, in this mountain, there are some apes to be met with. Apes are found lower down towards Hindustân, but none higher up than this hill. The inhabitants used formerly to keep hogs, but in my time they have renounced the practice. 5 6 Kûner and Nûrgil form another Tumân, which lies out of the way, and at some Kiner and distance from Lamghân. It is situated in the midst of Kaferistân, which forms its Nurgil. boundary. Although it is equal in extent to the other Tumâns, yet, from this circumstance, it yields less revenue, and the inhabitants pay less. The river of Cheghânserâi,' after passing through Kaferistân from the north-east, and dividing this country, unites with the river Bârân, in the Balûk of Kameh, and then passes onward to the 1 i. e. Lamech, the father of Noah. 2 The Bârân and Kâbul rivers unite above this junction. 3 The Dereh-Nûr lies on the Cheghânserâi, or Kashkâr river. It runs from the peak of Kûnd to Kûner. It is very singular that the Amlûk should now be called in Lumghan, or rather Lughmân, Karamûsh, which is evidently mentioned here as a contrast to the Lughmâni name. 5 On this passage Captain John Briggs, of the Madras Establishment, who is well versed in oriental usages, remarks, "Baber means in this place, I imagine, that the vines are not standards, but allowed to creep and spread. Standing vines are, however, very common in Persia. The plant is kept about three feet only in height, by lopping, and it is found to be a much more productive plan, though it sooner exhausts the soil." 6 This practice Baber viewed with disgust, the hog being an impure animal in the Muhammedan law. 7 This is the river which rises at Pûshtekhar, near Pamere, and which is called by Mr Elphinstone the Kashkar, or Kameh river. east. Nûrgil' lies on the west, and Kûner on the east of this river. Amir Syed Ali Hamadâni departed this life in a spot one farsang higher up than Kuner. His disciples carried him hence to Khutlân. A mausoleum is erected on the place where he A.D. 1514. died. In the year 920, when I came and took Cheghânserâi, I circumambulated his tomb; the orange, citron, and karenj,3 abound there. They get a strong and heady wine from Kaferistân. The inhabitants relate a strange circumstance, which appears to be impossible, but which is, however, constantly told. The lower part of this Tumân is called Milteh-Kendi, below which the country belongs to the Dereh-Nûr and Ater." Higher up than this Milteh-Kendi, in the whole of this hill country, comprehending Kuner, Nûrgil, Bajour, Sewâd, and all that neighbourhood, it is the custom, when a woman dies, to place her on a bier, which they lift up by the four sides. If the woman has lived virtuously, she shakes the bearers to such a degree, that, even when they are upon their guard, and attempting to prevent it, the corpse falls from the bier. If, however, she has done anything amiss, no motion takes place. It is not solely from the people of this place that I have had information of the practice, but the men of Bajour, Sewâd, and the whole of the hill-country, agree in their accounts. Haider Ali Bajouri, who was Sultan of Bajour, and who governed that country with much justice, when his mother died, neither made lamentation, nor expressed sorrow, nor arrayed himself in black, but only said, "Go, and place her on the bier; if she does not move, I will burn her." They placed her on the bier, and the corpse had the desired motion. On hearing this he put on black, and gave vent to his sorrow. Cheghan. erâi. Kameh. Nijrow. 6 Another Bulûk is Cheghânserâi, which contains one village only, and is of limited extent, lying in the very jaws or entrance of Kaferistân. As its inhabitants, though Musulmans, are mingled with the Kafirs, they live according to the customs of that race. The large river, known by the name of the river of Cheghânserâi, comes from the north-east of Cheghânserâi, behind Bajour. Another smaller stream, coming from the west, after flowing down through the midst of Pich, a district of Kaferistân, falls into it. The wine of Cheghânserâi is strong and yellowish; but bears no sort of comparison with that of the Dereh-Nûr. In Cheghânserâi there are neither grapes nor vineyards; but they bring the wines down the river from Kaferistân and Kaferistân-Pich. When I took Cheghânserâi, the Kafers of Pich came to their assistance. So prevalent is the use of wine among them, that every Kafer has a khig, or leathern bottle of wine about his neck; they drink wine instead of water. Kâmeh,' though not a distinct district, but under Nangenhâr, yet gets the name of a Balûk. Another Tumân is Nijrow, which lies north-east from Kâbul, in the hill-country. Behind it, in the hill-country, all the inhabitants are Kafers, and the country is Ka 2 It is usual for pious Muhammedans to circumambulate the tomb of a saint or holy man seven times, as a mark of veneration. 3 The karenj is a plant producing a small seed, probably like the coriander seed, which the Persians mix with their bread. * Ater is five or six kos north of Jalâlâbâd. 5 That is, treat the corpse as that of an infidel. This is probably the river on which Kandi stands. |