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Q. What is the measurement for the eyes of shrouds?

A. For the pair that goes on first, once and a quarter round the mast-head; each of the others, in succession, the breadth of a seizing larger than the one below it.

Q. How is wire lower rigging cut out?

A.-Measure the length for the foremost and after shrouds in the manner already given for hemp rigging, and divide the difference in length of the two shrouds among the intermediate ones, adding the diameter of the rope to each pair in succession. Q.-What proportion must the lanyard bear to the shroud? A.-Half the size.

Q.-What sized lanyard would you reeve for iron wire rigging? A. The same size as the wire rigging.

Q.-What proportion, with steel wire rigging, must the lanyard bear to the shroud.

A. The lanyard should be one-third larger than the shroud. Q.-What proportion must the dead-eye be to the shroud? A. Once and a half the size, to allow wood enough for the three holes.

FITTINGS OF THE STANDING RIGGING.

The Eye Splice.-The simplest way to make fast a rope to support a spar, is by splicing an eye in the end of the rope, and placing it over the spar.

Fork and Lashing Eyes.-In some cases an eye-splice cannot be placed over a mast-head. A fork and two lashing eyes are then fitted, and the eyes are lashed together behind the spar.

(A fork with lashing eyes is the same as an eye-splice with the centre cut and the two parts lashed together again.)

Cut Splice. By forming two ropes into a cut splice, by splicing one into the other, space is saved at the mast-head in rigging; but this fitting is not advisable on account of the strain brought on the back of the opposite splice, and is rarely used with rope, and never with wire.

Throat Seizing on the Bight.-When there are a number of ropes supporting a spar, as many as possible are fitted in pairs: the middle or bight of the rope is placed over the end of the spar, and a seizing is put on to form an eye. Thus, with an even number of ropes, they are fitted in pairs, with throat seizings on the bight. With an odd number they are all fitted in the same way except the odd one, which, being a single rope, is fitted with an eye splice.

Horse Shoe.-Immediately that a rope is bent it becomes weaker, therefore, all rigging should be kept as straight as possible.

In some cases the two legs of a pair of shrouds, &c., are required to be taken well apart from each other. If fitted with a throat seizing on the bight round the mast-head, too much strain would be brought on the seizing, besides bending the rope. Therefore a short piece of rope is spliced into each leg to act instead of a seizing, forming a horse-shoe splice.

Another way of fitting rigging when the legs are spread apart is by crossing the ends, and seizing them at the cross, to form an eye,

All the standing rigging is parcelled and served over wherever it is liable to be chafed, where wet is likely to lodge, or where any of the strands have been opened for splicing.

The parcelling would not lie smooth on a large rope, unless the hollows between the strands were first filled up with worming.

EXAMPLE.-All the large shrouds are wormed, parcelled, and served where they touch the mast-head, to preserve them from the wet; and if hemp, onethird of the way down each leg, to protect it from the chafe of the other ropes, and from the yard when braced sharp up-with the exception of the foremost shroud, which is served all the way down.

With wire rigging they are served all over, to keep the chafe of sails and gear from off the wire.

Q.-How is each pair of shrouds fitted?

A.—With a throat seizing on the bight round the mast-head. (A strip of tarred canvas is put on first to keep the turns of the seizing from opening the service.)

Q. How is the after swifter on a single shroud fitted?
A.-With an eye spliced round the mast-head.

Q.-In rigging a mast which is the odd shroud?

A.

The after one.

Q. Which is the odd backstay ?

A.-The foremost one.

Q.-Describe the operation of parcelling, serving, and worming; also the advantages and disadvantages of worming? Q.-State how the eyes are parcelled, and why?

A. -The eyes are parcelled upwards on each leg, meeting at the crown; for if put on in any other way, the water, instead of running off, would get in between the parts of the parcelling, and soon rot the rope.

Q.-How far is the foremost shroud served down, and why? A.-All the way, as it catches the chafe of the sail.

Q.-How far are all the rest of the shrouds served down, and why?

A.-One-third, as the yard touches and chafes them when it is braced up.

Q.-In placing the rigging, how are the shrouds known from each other?

A. They are all marked with knotted spunyarn; the pair going on first with one knot, the second with two knots. This brings all the odd numbered the starboard, and the even numbered the port side.

Q.-If the dead-eyes are turned in, how may a starboard shroud be known from a port one?

A. By the seizings being aft, and the end of the shroud inside on both sides of the ship.

Q. Where would you secure your girtline block to send up the rigging?

A. They are lashed to the after part of the trestle-trees. Some lash the girtline-block to the cross-tree that lies next to the after part of the mast-head, considering that the most convenient place. The cross-tree before the mast-head is also used for this purpose. Q.-Where would you bend on the girtline to the rigging to send it aloft, and how are the shrouds sent aloft?

A.-Bend the girtline on to the shroud, sufficiently below the eye seizing to allow the eye to go over the mast-head when the bend is at the block, stop the girtline along the upper part of the shroud with three or four stops to the end of the eye. "Sway away." Cut the stops in the top as they come to the block, and when the bend is at the block the men in the top place the rigging on the mast-head.

Q.-What part of the rigging do you send up first?

A. The fore swifter.

Q.-How, and in what order, are the shrouds placed on the mast-heads?

A.-The bolsters having been well parcelled and tarred are put on, the starboard foremost pair of shrouds put on first, then the foremost pair on the port side, then the second pair on the starboard side, and so on, alternately, working aft: and the stay on, over all, outside and close down. The seizing of the first pair of shrouds on each side is placed as far forward on the trestle-tree as possible; the seizing of the second pair overlaps half of the seizing of the first pair, that of the third pair overlaps half of the second pair, and so on. With iron rigging there will be room for the shrouds if the seizings are laid clear of each other.

Q.-How would you parcel the bolsters?

A. Place the parcelling on two sides only of the bolsters, the side against the mast, and that on which the rigging is to rest. Q.-What is done next?

A. The rigging and stays being placed over the mast-head are set up.

Q.--What part of the rigging would you set up first?

A.-The fore-stay.

Always stay the mast first.

Q.-How are jib, topmast, and lower stays fitted at the mastheads?

A. With a fork and two lashing eyes, which are lashed together abaft the mast-head with a rose lashing. Or sometimes the topmast stays are shackled together abaft the mast, and the

lower stays, fitted with a long and a short leg, are shackled at the side.

If the topmast and lower stays were not fitted separately but with throat seizings on the bight, if one stay were carried away, the strain of the mast would be on the seizing. If carried away above the seizing, both stays would be gone. The seizing would likewise have to be put on aloft after the stays were placed.

The jib-stay is frequently rove through a hanging block, shackled to the chain necklace at the fore-topmast-head, and the end secured with a chain slip at the jibboom end. It is set up with a purchase abaft the foremast. Q.-Where do the two legs of the forestay come up?

A.-Away of the trestle-tree ends, underneath the foremost cross-tree leg of top.

Q. How does the forestay set up away the bowsprit ?

A.-In some cases the forestay is double; the bight is passed under the bowsprit, and it sets up with two eyes and a lanyard abaft the mast. In other instances it is single, has a collar, and is lashed at the mast-head, and the other end is rove through a bull's-eye and is set up on its end; or a dead-eye is turned in, and it sets up with a lanyard to a heart in the bowsprit.

Q. When set up to a dead-eye on the bowsprit how is the heart or the dead-eye secured to the bowsprit.

A.-By a chain-strop round the bowsprit, and the dead-eye hooked or shackled to the strop.

NOTE.-The modern fashion is to have an iron band round the bowsprit, with eye bolts, one on each side.

Q.-How far out on the bowsprit is the dead-eye?

A.-About three or four feet inside the bees.

Q.-How would you secure the end of the stay?

A.-By three seizings.

Q.-What are they called?

A.-Throat, quarter, and end seizings.

Q.-You are setting up the two foremost shrouds of foremast, how can you tell when the mast is plumb?

A. By observing if both sides of the mast coating have an equal strain.

Q.-How would you set up a forestay with lashing eyes abaft the mast?

A.-Get a tackle from the mast-head on to the bowsprit, and heave the mast well forward. Get two smaller tackles from the after part of the trestle-trees on to the stays to light the slack in. Pass the lashing from both ends and heave the turns tight with a Spanish windlass, after which I would frap the stays together and seize them just above the fore yard. If the two stays are frapped together one tackle is sufficient.

Q. How would you stay your mast, supposing the stay sets up with a lanyard?

A.-I would hook one luff tackle to the mast-head, near the trestle trees, overhaul it down, put the other luff on the stay, allowing sufficient drift to stay the mast without fleeting; then hook the lower block of the latter tackle on to the lanyard of the stay, and hook the lower block of the mast-head tackle to the fall of other tackle, and then haul away.

Q. How would you put a main-stay on?

A.-Reeve it up through the top, round the mast-head, and down the other side.

Q. Where do the mainstays set up?

A. To the knight-heads, or to a cross-piece before the fore bitts, or abaft the foremast to bolts in the deck which pass through the upper and main deck beams.

Q.-In setting up lower stays why do you pull upon both ends of the lanyards?

A.-It enables more turns of the lanyard to be rove before pulling up and secures an equal strain on all parts.

Q.-How are the standing parts of the lanyards of fore and main stays and bobstays secured?

A. The standing part of the lanyard of a bobstay is rove with a running eye round the collar above the heart, and acts as a preventer seizing. The lanyard of a lower stay, being worked on both ends, has no standing part, and when rove full the ends are seized to the other parts of the lanyard.

Q.—What is the reason that mizzen-stays are smaller than the rigging (fore and main-stays being the reverse)?

A.-Because the braces on the mizzen-mast by leading forward assist the stays.

Q.-State how you will turn in lower rigging, whether with or against the lay of the rope, and why?

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A. With the lay of the rope; turning in against the lay would open the lay and let the water in.

Q.-How is a dead-eye turned in, or secured to a shroud? A.-Having parcelled the score of the dead-eye and hove the shroud taut round it, if right-hand-laid rope it is turned round the dead-eye right-handed or with the sun, and against the sun if hawser-laid; then pass the throat seizing with nine or ten turns, the outer turns being slacker than the middle ones. Pass quarterseizings half way to the eye, and then the end seizings and cap, the shroud well tarred under the cap.

N.B.-Wire rigging is generally spliced in; but when it is turned in, wire seizings are used.

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