leng of Deveren, which consists properly of two plains, the one the auleng of Tibâh, the other that of Kûsh-Nâder, which would make the aulengs of Kâbul five in number. Each of these two aulengs lies about a farsang from Kâbul. Though but of small extent, they afford excellent pasture for horses, and are not pestered with gnats. There is not in all Kâbul any auleng equal to these. The auleng of Siâh-Seng lies on the east of Kâbul. Between this last auleng and the Currier's-gate stands the tomb of Kutluk Kedem. This auleng being much infested with musquitoes in the hot weather, is not in such high estimation as the others. Adjoining to this last valley is that of Kemri. By this computation it appears that there are six aulengs about Kâbul, but we hear only of the four aulengs.

3

Hindu

The country of Kâbul is very strong, and of difficult access, whether to foreigners Passes over or enemies. Between Balkh, Kundez, and Badakhshân on the one side, and Kâbul on kush. the other, is interposed the mountain of Hindû-kûsh, the passes over which are seven in number. Three of these are by Penjhîr; the uppermost of which is Khewâk; 3 lower down is that of Tûl; and still lower, that of Bazârak. Of these three passes, the best is that of Tûl, but the way is somewhat longer, whence it probably got its name of Tûl (or the long). The most direct pass is that of Bazârak. Both of these passes lead over to Sirâb. As the pass of Bazârak terminates at a village named Barendi, the people of Sirâb call it the pass of Barendi. Another route is that of Perwân. Between Perwân and the high mountain there are seven minor passes, which they call Heft-becheh (the Seven Younglings). As you come from the Anderâb side, two roads unite below the main pass, and lead down on Perwân by way of the Seven Younglings. This is a very difficult road. There are besides three roads in Ghûrbend. That which is nearest to Perwân is the pass of Yangi-yuli (the new road), which descends by Waliân and Khinjân. Another route is that of Kipchâk, which leads by the junction of the rivers of Sûrkhâb and Anderâb. This is a good pass. Another route is by the pass of Shibertu. During the summer, when the waters are up, you can go by this pass only by taking the route of Bamiân and Sikan;5 but in the winter season, they travel by way of Abdereh. In winter, all the roads are shut up for four or five months, except this alone; such as then proceed to Shibertu through this pass, travel by way of Abdereh. In the season of spring, when the waters are in flood, it is as difficult to pass these roads as in winter; for it is impossible to cross the water courses, on account of the flooding of the torrents, so that the road by the water courses is not passable; and as for passing along the mountains, the mountain track is so difficult, that it is only for three or four months in autumn, when the snow and the waters decrease, that 1 Now Penjshîr. 2 In this enumeration Baber begins from the east.

3 There is a pass over the Hindû-kûsh range, at the head of the valley of Penjshîr, which is called the Kurindah Pass.

* Tûl is the Tool of Mr Elphinstone's map; Bazârak must be the straight road from Seifâbâd to Chârmaghzâr. The Perwân route is that by Perwân to Charmaghzâr, which passes between Seifâbâd and the head of the valley of Sauleh auleng. Yengi-yûli is that by Doshakh direct upon Khinjân. The Kipchâk route runs up the valley of Ghûrbend, and then over the mountains to the junction of the two rivers at Kila Beiza. The Shibertu Pass is by Shiber. There seems to have been a direct road from that to Mader in dry weather; but in wet, people went round by Bamiân, Seighân, and the pass of Dendân-shiken.

5 Or Seighan.

S

The Passes to India.

Division of
Kabul.

it is practicable. The Kafir robbers also issue from the mountains and narrow paths, and infest this passage.

The road from Khorasân leads by way of Kandahâr. It is a straight level road, and does not go through any hill-passes.

From Hindustan there are four roads which lead up to Kâbul. One of these is by way of the Lamghanât,' and comes by the hill of Kheiber, in which there is one short hillpass. Another road leads by Bangash; a third by Naghz, and the fourth by Fermal. In all of these roads there are passes of more or less difficulty. Those who come by them cross the river Sind at three different places. Those who go by the Nilâb passage, take the road of Lamghanât. In the winter season, however, they cross the river Sind, the river of Sewâd, and the river of Kâbul, above the conflux of this last river with the Sind. In most of the expeditions which I made into Hindustân, I forded these rivers in this way; but the last time, when I invaded that country, defeated Sultan Ibrâhim and conquered Hindustân, I crossed at the Nilâb passage in boats. Except at the place that has been mentioned, the river Sind can nowhere be passed unless in boats. Those again who cross at Dînkôt take the Bangash road; while those who cross at Choupâreh3 take the road of Fermul, if proceeding to Ghazni, and the road of the desht or plains if they are going to Kandahar.

In the country of Kâbul there are many and various tribes. Its valleys and plains are inhabited by Tûrks, Aimâks, and Arabs. In the city and the greater part of the villages, the population consists of Tâjîks. Many other of the villages and districts are occupied by Pashâis, Parâchis, Tâjîks, Berekis, and Afghâns. In the hill-country to the west, reside the Hazâras and Nukderis. Among the Hazâra and Nukderi tribes, there are some who speak the Moghul language. In the hill-country to the north-east lies Kaferistân, such as Kattor and Gebrek. To the south is Afghanistân. There are eleven or twelve different languages spoken in Kâbul: Arabic, Persian, Tûrki, Mogholi, Hindi, Afghâni, Pashâi, Parâchi, Geberi, Bereki, and Lamghâni. It is dubious whether so many distinct races, and different languages, could be found in any other country.

The country of Kâbul is divided into fourteen Tûmans. In Samarkand, Bokhâra, and those quarters, the smaller districts into which a country is divided, are called Tuman in Andejân, Kâshghar, and the neighbouring countries, they get the name of

:

1 The Lamghan road is the great road from Kâbul to Peshâwer. The Bangash is explained by its

name.

2 Naghz, now unknown, seems to have been on the upper course of the Kûrram. Fermul was probably Urghûn, where the Fermulis, a Persian race, still reside.

3 Nilâb stands somewhat lower down the Sind than Attok. The present Nilâb is about 15 miles below Attock. I may remark, that I have not been able to discover any Indian authority previous to the time of Abulfazl, for the Sind being called Nilâb, though it would help to explain an ancient geographical difficulty.

* Dînkôt is probably at or near the present Khûshialghur, unless its being afterwards mentioned as a northern boundary of Banu should render it probably that it was Kalabagh.

5 The road from Choupâreh to Fermul was probably the direct road through Kaneguram to Urghun. The road of the desht or plain, was no doubt that through Damân, the flat part of which Baber always calls Desht. Choupâreh was probably situated near Kagalwâla on the Kurram.

6
* Kattor or Katâr, is a place of note in Kaferistan. Gebrek also lies in the Kâfer country.

Urchîn, and in Hindustân they call them Perganah. Although Bajour, Sewâd, Pershâwer, and Hashnaghar,' originally belonged to Kâbul; yet at the present date some of these districts have been desolated, and others of them entirely occupied by the tribes of Afghans, so that they can no longer be properly regarded as provinces.

nât.

On the east lies the Lamghanât, which comprehends five Tumâns and two Balûks. LamghaThe largest of the Tumâns of Lamghan is Nangenhâr,3 which, in many histories, is written Nekerhâr. The residence of the darogha, or commandant of this district, is Adînapûr. Nangenhâr lies to the east of Kâbul, thirteen farsangs of very difficult road. In three or four places there are some very short kotuls or steep hill-passes, and in two or three places there are narrows or straits. The Khirilchi and other robber Afghân tribes infest this road with their depredations. There was no population along this road till I settled Karatû below the Kuruk-sâi," which rendered the road safe. The Germsîl (or region of warm temperature) is divided from the Serdsîl (or region of cold temperature) only by the steep pass of Badam-cheshmeh. Snow falls on the Kâbul side of this pass, but not on the Kuruk-sâi and Lamghanât side. The moment you descend this hill-pass, you see quite another world. Its timber is different, its grains are of another sort, its animals of a different species, and the manners and customs of the inhabitants are of a different kind. Nangenhâr has nine streams. Its rice and wheat are excellent. Oranges, citrons, and pomegranates, are very abundant, and of good quality. Opposite to the fort of Adînahpûr, to the south, on a rising ground, I formed a charbagh (or great garden), in the year nine hundred and fourteen." It is called Baghe Vafâ (the Garden of Fidelity). It overlooks the river, which flows between the fort and the palace. In the year in which I defeated Behâr Khan and conquered Lahore and Dibâlpûr, I brought plantains and planted them here. They A. H. 930, grew and thrived. The year before I had also planted the sugar-cane in it, which throve remarkably well. I sent some of them to Badakhshân and Bokhâra. It is on an elevated site, enjoys running water, and the climate in the winter season is temperate. In the garden there is a small hillock, from which a stream of water, sufficient to drive a mill, incessantly flows into the garden below. The four-fold field-plot1o of this garden is situated on this eminence. On the south-west part of this garden is a reservoir of water ten gez11 square, which is wholly planted round with orange trees; there are likewise pomegranates. All around the piece of water the ground is quite

1 This place is now always called Heshtnagar.

2 A singular proof of the imperfect state in which the geography of those countries long remained is, that Petis de la Croix places Lamghan in Kashmîr.-Hist. de Timur Bec, Vol. II. p. 18.

3 Nangenhår lies along the Kâbul river on the south. It is the Nungnehaura of Mr Elphinstone's map.

4 Upwards of 50 miles.

5 The dry water channel.-Leyden. Perhaps the Park river.

6 i. e. Almond-spring. The Pass of Badam-cheshmeh lies south of the Kâbul river, between Little Kâbul and Barîk-âb.

7 Whence it is said to derive its name, which in Afghâni means nine streams.

8 The fort of Adînahpur is to the south of the Kâbul river.

9 About A. D. 1508.

10 It is usual for the Persians to divide their gardens into four plots by two roads which cross each other.

11 The original has only ten by ten, but the gez is probably the measure understood, which would make it a square of about twenty feet or upwards.

A. D. 1524.

Tuman of
Alisheng.

covered with clover. This spot is the very eye of the beauty of the garden. At the time when the orange becomes yellow, the prospect is delightful. Indeed the garden is charmingly laid out. To the south of this garden lies the Koh-e-Sefîd (the White Mountain) of Nangenhâr, which separates Bangash from Nangenhâr., There is no road by which one can pass it on horseback. Nine streams descend from this mountain. The snow on its summit never diminishes, whence probably comes the name of Koh-e-Sefîd' (the White Mountain). No snow ever falls in the dales at its foot. Between the mountain and the garden there may be as much interval as would serve a party to encamp on. On the skirts of this hill there are many airy and beautiful situations. The water which descends from it is naturally so cold, that it does not require ice to cool it. On the south of the fort of Adînaphûr is the Sûrkh-rûd2 (the Red Rivulet). The fort is situated on an eminence, which, towards the river, is forty or fifty gez3 in perpendicular height. On the north there is a detached mass of mountain. The fortress is very strong. This last mountain forms the division between Nangenhâr and the Lamghanât. Whenever it snows at Kâbul, the snow falls also on the top of this mountain, by which means the people of the Lamghanât can tell, from the appearance of its top, when it snows at Kâbul. In travelling from Kâbul to Lamghân, there is one road by which, after passing Kuruk-sâi, you proceed through the steep pass of Debri, and reach the Lamghanât by way of Bûlân. There is another road, by which, crossing Kuruk-sâi lower down than Kurabûk, and passing the river Bârân at Uluk-Nûr, and thence proceeding by the hill-pass of Badij, you come down upon Lamghân. If one travel by the road of Nijrou he passes on by Bedrav,9 and, proceeding by Karabankerik, falls into the hill-pass of Badij. Though Nangenhâr be spoken of as one of the five Tumâns of Lamghân,1o yet there are only three Tumâns which properly bear the name of Lamghân.

8

The first of these three is the Tumân of Alisheng," which, on the north, consists of rugged snowy hills that join the mountain of Hindû-kûsh. That mountainous country is entirely in Kaferistân. The part of Kaferistân nearest to Alisheng is Meil; and the river of Alisheng comes down from Meil.12 The tomb of the holy Lâm, the

1 The Koh-e-Sefîd is a remarkable position in the geography of Afghanistân. It is seen from Peshawer.

2 The Sûrkh-rûd rises in Sefîd Roh, and runs into the Kâbul river between Jagdelik and Gundomuk. 3 A hundred feet or upwards.

* A friend to whose observations on Baber's geography of Afghanistân I have been much indebted, remarks, "The change of names here is astonishing. I have many routes in Lumghân, one in particular, by the way of Nijrow here referred to, and yet I cannot discover one place of those here mentioned, unless the kotal of Badij be allowed any resemblance to Bâdpash (by changing the diacritical points). Bâdpash is a steep kotal, half a day's journey to the north of Undroor on the Caubul river, and about 16 or 18 miles west of Turgurree, where the streams of Alingâr and Alisheng join."

5

Leyden has Beri.

* Rain river.-Leyden.

In this route they proceed by the north side of the Kâbul or Baran river.

8 Uluk-Nûr.-The Great Light.-Leyden.

Leyden reads Bazar; Mr Elphinstone's Turki copy has Bezrav.

10 Lamghân is now always called Laghmân.

11 The two streams which form the glens of Alisheng and Alingâr, coming from the north, unite above Mandraur, and fall into the Kâbul river below that place.

12 Now called Kilai Akheri.

father of Nûh,' is in the Tumân of Alisheng. In some histories, the holy Lâm is denominated Lamek and Lamekân. The people of that country have a general practice of changing the letter Kaf into Ghain, and it seems very probable that the name Lamghân originated from that circumstance.

The second Tumân is Alingâr. The part of Kaferistân that is nearest to Alingâr Alingår. is Gewâr, and the river of Alingâr comes down from Gewâr. These two rivers, after passing through Alisheng and Alingâr, unite with each other, and afterwards fall into the river Bârân,2 below the third Tumân, which is called Mendrâur.

Of the two Balûks which have been mentioned, one is Dereh-Nûr3 (the Valley of Dereh-Nûr. Light), which is an uncommonly fine tract. The fort is situated at the entrance of the valley, on the projecting point of a mountain, and washed by a river on both of its sides. The grounds are chiefly laid out in rice-fields, and can be passed only by the high road. It has the orange, the citron, and the fruits of a warm climate. It has likewise a few date trees. The banks of the river, which flows on the two sides of the fort, are quite covered with trees; the most abundant of which is the chob-amluk, which the Tûrks generally name karayemûsh. This fruit is very abundant in the Dereh-Nûr, but is found nowhere else. It has also grapes, all of which they grow upon trees. The wine of Dereh-Nûr is famous over all the Lamghanât. It is of two kinds, which they term areh-tâshi (the stone-saw), and suhân-tashi (the stone-file). The stone-saw is of a yellowish colour; the stone-file, of a fine red. The stone-saw, however, is the better wine of the two, though neither of them equals their reputation. Higher up, at the head of the glens, in this mountain, there are some apes to be met with. Apes are found lower down towards Hindustân, but none higher up than this hill. The inhabitants used formerly to keep hogs, but in my time they have renounced the practice.

5

Kûner and Nûrgil form another Tumân, which lies out of the way, and at some Kûner and distance from Lamghân. It is situated in the midst of Kaferistân, which forms its Nûrgil. boundary. Although it is equal in extent to the other Tumâns, yet, from this circumstance, it yields less revenue, and the inhabitants pay less. The river of Cheghânserâi,' after passing through Kaferistân from the north-east, and dividing this country, unites with the river Bârân, in the Balûk of Kameh, and then passes onward to the

1 i. e. Lamech, the father of Noah.

? The Bârân and Kâbul rivers unite above this junction.

3 The Dereh-Nûr lies on the Cheghânserâi, or Kashkâr river. It runs from the peak of Kûnd to Kûner.

It is very singular that the Amlûk should now be called in Lumghan, or rather Lughmân, Karamûsh, which is evidently mentioned here as a contrast to the Lughmâni name.

5 On this passage Captain John Briggs, of the Madras Establishment, who is well versed in oriental usages, remarks, "Baber means in this place, I imagine, that the vines are not standards, but allowed to creep and spread. Standing vines are, however, very common in Persia. The plant is kept about three feet only in height, by lopping, and it is found to be a much more productive plan, though it sooner exhausts the soil."

6 This practice Baber viewed with disgust, the hog being an impure animal in the Muhammedan law.

7 This is the river which rises at Pûshtekhar, near Pamere, and which is called by Mr Elphinstone the Kashkar, or Kameh river.