FARE HARBOUR, HUAHine.

185

One of very pecubeen taken for a

plated from the deck or from the shore. liar form, standing apart, might have Chinese temple, built upon the waves, when seen from the point where we first descried its tapering height against the horizon. It was covered with cocoa-nut and other trees. Soon afterwards, the Missionary settlement, at the head of the bay, saluted our view, and was most welcome to our hearts. It has an imposing appearance, and reminded us more of a large town than any place we had lately seen, many of the houses being of considerable size, all white, and the chapel, a noble edifice, in the centre. A lofty mountain rises in the back-ground of this expanded picture, between the foot of which and the sea there runs a narrow border of low land, rich in tropical trees, pleasant to the eye and good for food.

Fronting this station, which is on Fare Harbour, where Captain Cook formerly anchored, we could discern, towards the north-west, the adjacent islands of Raiatea, Tahaa, and Borabora, beautifully displayed between the level ocean and the bending sky, that seemed to enclose them behind and above with an invisible fence. The morning was delightfully serene, and with a gentle breeze we were soon wafted through an opening of the reef into the calm and safe lagoon. This reef of coral extends across the bay, having two passages through which entrance or egress may be made, each about a quarter of a mile in breadth, with great depth of water; while upon the rocky barrier itself the surge is for ever rolling and retreating in foam and spray, through which no bark, however light or strong, can live to carry a crew or cargo. The bay here is a mile wide, and about as much inward from the reef to the shore; and anchorage is so secure that vessels generally lie close upon the beach, and are moored to a tree, head and stern. Two streams of fresh

186

DISTINGUISHED NATIVES AT HUAHINE.

water, one at the south and the other at the north side, flow into the harbour, and fertilize the land round the settlement.

Mr. Ellis and Mr. Barff, the Missionaries here, sent their boat to bring us on shore, and gave us a most cordial welcome to Huahine, on which we were glad to set our feet, as on a field which the Lord had blessed. By the time when we had reached Mr. Barff's house, hundreds of the natives had assembled to greet us, whose Iaoranas-" all good be with you"-rang in our ears; but to shake hands with all that offered was almost more than our strength could endure; many children were among them, and shouted for joy with the rest. With the first whom we saw came Mahine and Mahine Vahine, the king and queen of Maiaoite, who have great influence in this island, where they usually reside. Mahine, when an idolater, was a mighty man of valour, and rendered essential service in raising Pomare to his dignity in Tahiti. In the last conflict, also, with the heathen insurgents, he had distinguished himself pre-eminently. He commanded the third division in the order of march to battle, and when the first and second were compelled to fall back he firmly advanced to charge the enemy, whose chief leader was soon afterwards slain by a shot from one of his men total discomfiture soon followed. On Mahine's return to this island, after the war, as he leaped on shore he exclaimed, "The idolaters were conquered by prayer." He seems about sixty years of age, a tall and venerable man, and generally dresses in European costume. He might at the time above mentioned have obtained extensive dominions, with great civil power, but he nobly resigned the whole into the hands of others, saying that he would have nothing to do thenceforward with political affairs, but should give himself to hearing the word, and obeying the will, of God during the remainder of his days. His consort