THE Island of Banka, also called China-Batta, lies on the 2o of South Lat. and on the 105° 14' E. Long. and contains 3,400 geographical miles; being separated from the island of Sumatra by the Strait of Banka, which is about 34 leagues long and 3 to 8 leagues broad. It is intersected from the N. W. to the S. E. by a mountain chain, of which the mountains of Marras on the west side and of Manopin and Permissang on the south and east are the most remarkable. It is undoubtedly, on account of its richness in tin ore, iron, some fine kinds of wood &c., one of the most profitable of the Islands of the Archipelago.

The generally prevailing impression of its insalubrity, and the constant internal strife, are the principal reasons why there appears hitherto to have been so little taste for natural researches in Banka, or that these have only been very superficial. From this however ought to be excepted the physical investigations of Dr Horsfield under the British rule, and later an official journey of Mr Diard in the year 1825, but which was more limited to statistical subjects, while the first named naturalist occupied himself, for the most part, with the investigation of the vegetation of Banka.† • Translated from the Tijdschrift voor Neerlands Indir, 11th No. 1846.

+ See Dr Horsfield's "Report on the Island of Banka" in the 2nd Vol. of this Journal, p. 299, which will be found to contain very full information regarding the Tin mines.

VOL. V. MAY, 1851.

The appearance of the Island of Banka when viewed from the west and south west sides is very beautiful, and presents many picturesque aspects. The whole coast, above all the north, south east and south west sides, to a certain distance inland, is mostly uncultivated, in consequence of the piracy which always existed and still continues. Here and there, upon the shore, we meet some fishermen, but with the exceptiou of Muntok, Tanjong Mantong, and Tobo-alie, all the inhabited districts lie more inland.

The conformity of the coast with the island groups lying in the vicinity, leads to the belief that the isolated position of Banka has been produced by an early catastrophe of nature.

The ground consists of alternating layers, varying in thickness, of a hard ferriferous clay of different colours, such as red, yellow and brown, graduating to the clearest white, and which is mingled with fragments of flint and mountain crystal. Upon this rests a very thin bed of black friable garden or mother earth (humus) which over the whole island seldom exceeds the thickness of 1 to 2 feet.

It admits of no doubt that the island is of a primitive formation, the core of the predominating mountains being of a solid hard granite, wherein we have not yet observed the slightest trace of volcanic phenomena, with the exception of a hot spring some years ago discovered at Permissang, lying at the foot of the hills of that name, in the middle of a swampy flat, and at a distance of about 2 to 3 leagues from the sea coast. The heat of this spring is about 186 to 1900 Fahr. The water principally contains sulphureted hydrogen gas in combination with some portions of soda and an appreciable portion of magnesia. I was unable from want of the necessary apparatus to make a correct analysis of the water. A similar hot spring is also found in the district of Pankal Pinang near Kampong Classah, at the foot of the mountain Mankal, in the division of Messu, which I was desirous of examining, but which my unexpected departure to Java allowed me no opportunity of doing.

The island is abundantly intersected by extensive swamps and rivers, principally on the west and southwest sides, some of which, such as the Sungie Jering, Bankakotta and Marawang, take their rise from the mountain chains which divide the island, or out of the swamps lying at the foot of these mountains. From the nature of the coasts of Banka, in my opinion, must indisputably result the probability of an earlier junction of this and the other islands of the Archipelago, such as Biliton, Rhio, Sumatra, Linga, &c., with the Peninsula of Malacca, principally from the constitution of the ground, the direction of which is in general the same. Thus, for example, the West coast of Sumatra possesses rich gold, copper and iron mines, while its Eastern coast possesses tin &c., being undoubtedly a continuation of the same ground in Banka from which we have already, with so much profit, extracted this metal. Beyond this, the greater portion of

the Peninsula is very rich in the same mineral and the form of the mountains is of the same nature.

The rivers are, on account of their smallness, short and crooked in their course, covered in the interior by the most luxuriant vegetation, and are thence unnavigable. This is principally caused by trees of Yuceca aloefolia, Rhizophora mangle, different kinds of Pandanus and a fine kind of rattan (rottan sega). On the east side, steep, sandy, and constantly exposed to the fury of the ocean, there exists a dangerous surf by which sand banks are heaped up at the mouths of the rivers, so that even the largest, with the exception of those of Marawang and Banka Kotta, are not calculated to admit vessels larger than a row-gunboat.

The temperature is in general little different from that of the islands which lie on nearly the same lat. and long. of the archipelago. The thermometer commonly rises at 8 o'clock in the morning from 70° to 75° Fahr., and at mid-day from 85 to 95 and 98. The nights in the interior are generally very cold and damp so that the thermometer very frequently falls to from 60 to 66; chiefly in the districts of Jebus, Pankal Pinang and Koba.

In the west monsoon, which usually commences at the end of September, we have constant rains, accompanied by strong winds ranging from the W. to the N. W. and N. Thunder and lightning are then very prevalent and commonly violent, particularly at Muntoh. The prevailing weather and temperature are not however the same over the whole extent of the island. Thus we have generally at Muntoh during the day an insupportable heat, which is not cooled by any land wind, while the nights are rendered by it unbearably hot, so that the thermometer never sinks below 72°. The reason of this is that the town partly lies on a plateau or hill, rising about 80 feet above the sea, immediately at the foot of Monopin, whereby the free passage of the wind from the N. and W. is obstructed, and it becomes packed together as it were on a point. In this also consists the chief reason of the greater insalubrity of Muntok, in comparison with most of the remaining exterior districts, which, with the exception of Tobo-alie and Tanjong Mantong, mostly lie at a considerable distance from the sea, and are not so immediately exposed to the sudden and noxious changes of weather and winds. The extensive stagnant swamps and muddy shores by which the station is surrounded, will also greatly contribute to this by their continual evaporation, in connection with the air impregnated with noxious exhalations which constantly blows over from the low swamps lying on the opposite coast of Sumatra, and especially in the rainy season, which principally tends to produce in the place the well known Banka fever.

The opening of roads through the greater portion of the jungle at Muntok, in which that place lies enclosed, appears to have much contributed to the salubrity, at least the mortality

is now less, and the prevailing fever is no longer of such a dreaded and malignant character.

The potable water of Banka is generally reckoned unwholsome, and thought to contain noxious metalic ingredients, particularly tin or arsenic dissolved. In order to satisfy myself of this, I have examined water from nearly all parts of the island, and Mr Diederichs, at that time Apothecary of the 2nd class at Muntok, analysed the drinking water at Muntok both from the river and that derived from the garrison well, and found that it is in general impregnated with clay and lime, iron, and also an exceedingly minute portion of tin; the river water however more than the well water. No trace was found of arsenic.

The tin present in it is also so small that none of the noxious effects of the metal on domestic animals are to be feared from a frequent use of it. Indeed the water drinkers on Banka enjoy by comparison the best health.

According to the general ideas respecting the origin of the human races, the true aborigines of the island of Banka appear to have been derived from the Peninsula and bear all the characteristics of the Malayan stock.

Both sexes are of middling height and well built, although their limbs in comparison with the trunk, are a little too small. The dark brown skin loses itself in the olive in proportion to their more northern position; the eyes are round and lively; the nose drawn in and a little flat; the countenance full and round; the hair of both sexes long and of extreme blackness. From these proper and principal inhal itants of Banka we must separate a peculiar race of men, who here, as at Biliton, lead wandering lives mostly along the coast, and are wholly distinguished from the remaining inhabitants of Banka by their manners and usages. These are known by the name of Orang Laut or Sicca. They are entirely ignorant of their own derivation. It is however probable that they are of the same race as the inhabitants of the West coast of Borneo, or of the neighbouring islands.

They are not converted to the Mahomedan religion, but worship idols, and feed on wild hog's flesh and raw rice with uncooked or salted fish. They are moreover considered very wicked and predatory, and commonly seek their livelihood by committing petty robberies on the sea and along the coast. Their dwelling places are mostly small prahus, each of which forms the home of a family. With these light vessels they encounter the heaviest seas, and are undoubtedly the best fishermen of this archipelago.

It is principally in the Tampillings near Batin Cadella, Batin Sicca, at Blinju and Maporbo that this race is at home; we find some of them established on the north coast. Their appearance in general (although they have already intermixed with the inhabitants of the interior of Banka) is very coarse and tall, and their skin is of a bark brown tint, with a scaly appearance,