Back River, and communicates by a number of channels with the Gulf of Siam. The third, called the Advanced River, passes by the fort of Mytho, and falls into the sea after watering the northern part of Cochin China.

The most important point of this immense extent of water (belonging to the Great River) is called Les Quartre Bras,-a large basin formed by four considerable streams flowing from Laos and joining there the great river and its three branches. Throughout the part we have gone over a remarkable contrast was vividly impressed on us; this was the wonderful richness of the country and the miserable condition of its people. In the midst of a most luxuriant vegetation, a soil of the most fertile kind, a run of water that at once supplies the means of transport and irrigation, one only meets with cases of distress. On inquiry into them the answer is, "Protect us from robbers and brigands and we will cultivate the ground. But we have no safety, and must be always ready to hasten away in our boats with all we have, to escape as well from the exacting demands of our chiefs as from the attacks of pirates." And yet it is a splendid country, abounding in cotton, silk, pulse, tobacco, indigo, enormous quantities of fish, which are eaten salted, presenting together abundant resources for commerce.

But for the resources of Cambodia to be fully developed, security of property is first required, and then that the kingdom of Siam should cease to drain it by plunder, as at present. Here is the state of the case. Fifty years ago Cambodia was a flourishing country, and traces of this are found even now. I could have wished to send you with this a sketch of the Palace of Ancor, or House of Initiation. Here is a rapid description of it:

At a league from Ancor, a weak fortress, in the midst of a magnificent vegetation, stands a large square building, each side being 800 or 1,000 yards long, built of stone, ornamented with stone carving. At each of the four angles are fantastic figures in stone which resemble the Sphynx. A handsome doorway, decorated both in itself and its entablature with sculpture, leads by a very long corridor to a stone jetty, its two sides ornamented by a handsome stone balustrade. On two sides of the jetty are immense basins, and in the middle of it are the ruins of two temples. Seen from without, in spite of its neglected condition, the whole edifice presents an imposing aspect. The high walls, the twisted columns, the windows regular and equally cut in stone, the balconies, the cupolas,-all attest the magnificence of the priests of Buddha and their votaries. On the first story some figures are still in a good state of preservation, and here and there are some niches with statues of Buddha and his followers, and there is even a museum of religious collections. Months would be required to describe or even enumerate the many bas reliefs, so varied are they, and so elegant are the forms of the cupolas. It is quite evident that a race of people who are in possession of such monuments had attained an advanced stage of industry and civilization.

Ancor is two hours' journey from the great lake; but let us return

to Cochin China, properly so called. The situation of the three provinces is excellent in all respects. There is only one point which may be troubled by the rebels and that is Go-Kong. The chief of the rebels is a great scoundrel named Quan Dinhor. But the Viceroy has promised to do for him in two or three weeks; and he is our friend.

SAILING DIRECTIONS BETWEEN SINGAPORE STRAITS AND CAPE ST. JAMES during the N.E. Monsoon,-By A. J. Loftus, Master, Ship "Kensington."

(Concluded from vol. xxxi., p. 642.)

Directions from the Mouth of the River to the City of Saigon,N.E. Monsoon.

Having complied with the regulations of the frigate, get under sail at low water, with a commanding breeze from the eastward, and proceed towards point E., keeping in mid-channel and giving the small islet lying off point D. a good berth.

When near the point E,* brace up and luff, run close to it through the next reach. Should the wind be scant make a tack and proceed on to the point J., keeping it close aboard; then brace up and luff along the South reach, giving the mouth of a river below the point a moderate berth: steer on in mid-channel until near the point M., then haul up, and if the ship is handy, work through the East reach, otherwise back and fill or drop through if the tide be strong. Make sail again at the end of the reach and proceed, rounding the point O. in mid-channel, as there is a little shoal water off it. Keep very close in to that side of the river until the painted tree that grows out of the water at the point P. and the coral bank are passed, giving the tree a berth of half a ship's length, and following the track on the chart. L See plan of coral bank.]

Having passed the bank, run on, keeping clear of the bight Q., which is shoal. When off the point T., cross over to U., sailing along that side at a convenient distance. Keep close to the point V. if the wind be scant, and luff through the next reach; then keep away and brace sharp up at the point W., keep a close luff through the South reach, and bring up below the shipping.

Ships' papers must be shown to the harbour master on arrival, and a berth for mooring ship will be pointed out by him.

Stores and Supplies.-Water is obtained from a well built in the centre of the river at Chinese Town, three and a half miles from the city, and brought alongside in water boats. The fish are very small and black and very inferior eating. Ducks and fowls sell for about three dollars per dozen; vegetables are very scarce. There is a very limited quantity of ship's stores and little variety for visitors. Few strangers escape from what is called the Saigon fever; it seems to be of a chronic form, and is not easily got rid of: emetics,

Many seamen have mistaken the point D. for that of E., and having luffed round it, have got aground on hard sand.

purgatives, and large doses of quinine, are used for its cure.

Attacks

of cholera and sun stroke are also frequent. Bathing, moderate exercise in the shade, spare regular diet, and ample rest, are the best preventives. Exposure to the sun, indolence, costiveness, irregular diet, and drinking fermented liquors, must be avoided.

During the day the heat is very great, the thermometer often rising to 100° in the shade, and during the night also the air is very close and heat oppressive,

Winds and Tides at Saigon.-The sea breeze generally commences in the forenoon and blows up the river fresh during the day, gradually dying away in the evening.

The tides are tolerably strong and regular about the springs; it is high water at 5h. 30m. at the full and change, the rise being 9 to 10 feet. Neaps are weak and irregular, with strong under-currents and very little rise and fall. The passage up the river generally occupies two days.

City of Saigon to Cape St. James,-N.E. Monsoon.

The average passage of small vessels to the mouth of the river is about five days, while large vessels have taken from fifteen to twenty days. The former have the advantage of being able to beat through nearly all the reaches, whilst the latter have to back and fill or kedge with the anchor under foot.

When unmooring at the city, cat the starboard anchor, keeping the port one down for kedging, and having broken ground, sheer from side to side, lying athwart the tide when convenient, and hugging the points, when there is no shoal off them, to prevent being set into the bights.

After rounding point V., keep on the same side of the river as far as U., and from thence sheer direct over to the point T., passing it closely, to prevent being set into the large river (Suirop) opposite. The ebb runs very strong into its mouth, and many ships have been hoisted on the soft mud bank lying off the point S., through delay in crossing over. Proceed on and when a short distance from the river R.† change anchors, giving that branch a good berth whilst passing, as the ebb tide sets strong into it. Having passed the bight Q. in mid-channel, keep close in to that side, and look out for the point P.; if the tide runs strong when the painted tree is approached, run out a line and check the ship round it, keeping the bushes close aboard to prevent being set on the rocky patch below the point; this precaution is necessary, particularly during the springs, as the ebb tide runs very strong, setting from the point P. directly over the rocky path.

Proceed, passing the point O. in mid-channel; strong sets will be

* Vessels dropping down during neaps, will find great advantage in having a square sail sunk under the stern with two guys leading forward.

† Vessels dropping past the river at R. and the coral bank, should always use the starboard anchor with the ebb tide, and the port anchor with the flood. By these means the river at R. and the bank will be passed without much trouble.

found in the bight at N. and off point M., and also into the rivers L. and K., the former of which is nearly blocked up with soft mud. Vessels should hug the points opposite these rivers very closely whilst passing, otherwise they will be hoisted into them, and meet with more or less delay.

Proceeding on, take care in passing the four branches, as the ebb tide sets strong up the two northern arms, the water also increases in depth at their junctions, making it very unhandy for kedging, and troublesome work for the men at the windlass.

The best way to pass is to keep as close as safety will permit to the mouth of the river at J., which is rather shoal, having but 3 fathoms across its mouth. Having passed it, keep very close to the point J., where plenty of water will be found, until beyond the tidal influence of the rivers.

Should the ship sheer off the point, carry a line out to the trees at J., and snub her round it, otherwise she will be hoisted into one of the northern arms and be delayed; several vessels have been delayed from one to two days through this cause. After passing the four rivers, proceed, keeping close to point E., as the tide sets strong into the bight opposite. The channel from E. to D. is much contracted by the extent of the banks on both sides of the river.

Having passed point E., proceed in mid-channel until the small island off point E. is rounded, keeping the North shore aboard until arriving at the frigate. By these means the strong set in the river C. and the extensive hard banks which lie on that shore will be avoided. These banks are pretty steep to, and vessels tacking or dropping in any part of this reach should borrow, if anything, towards the North shore, as the water shoals thǝre more gradually. The lead at the same time should be kept carefully going, and very short tacks made, by vessels working through the narrows at the upper part of this reach.

Having anchored at Canjio, receive your arms, &c., and clearance from the frigate; then make ready for sea, getting away with the sea breeze on the ebb tide, and working the vessel through the channel to the eastward, being careful not to shoal the water under 7 fathoms when standing towards the banks.

When the frigate is brought to bear W. N., or the trees on point B. W. N., bring the point A. to bear S.E.b.E.; work up for the point on these bearings, taking care not to stand too close to the high land of St. James, as the wind is generally puffy and unsteady, causing ships at times to miss stays. Should the tide be nearly done before getting clear of the cape, it would be advisable to anchor in Vang-Tau Bay until the next ebb makes, for, should the wind fall light outside, the flood tide would in all probability set the ship on the Bassok Bank.

Cape St. James to Singapore Straits,-N.E. Monsoon.

From Cape St. James shape a course to pass to the eastward of the coral patch and Pulo Condore, and from thence direct for Pulo Aor, making allowance for a set into the gulf of Siam whilst crossing its mouth.

When approaching Pulo Timoan during the night or in bad weather, make much allowance for a strong current setting to the south-westward direct into the bight on the Malay coast westward of Pulo Timoan, as ships have several times found themselves close to the North end of Timoan when they were well to the eastward of it by their reckoning.

Should the weather be thick and a fresh breeze blowing when near Pulo Aor, round to under its lee and wait a convenient time to bear up for the Straits of Singapore. The current sets S.S.E. between this island and the East point of Bintang, by which vessels running for the straits are liable to fall to leeward of the entrance, if proper allowance be not made. A S.S.W. W. course from Pulo Aor would be advisable until close in to the Malay shore, coasting along it at a convenient distance, and passing through the North channel, giving the Romania Islands a good offing of three miles, to avoid the small reefs lying eastward of them. The ship will then be on the weather side of the straits, and have the advantage of anchoring under Water Island should bad weather come on.

It often happens that ships leaving Pulo Aor for the straits steer too much southerly, and are swept with the sea current and the ebb tide coming out of the straits so far to leeward of Bintang Island that they have been obliged to proceed round it, and come up through Rhio Straits.

In the month of March during the latter part of this monsoon, the winds are steady from the eastward, with a slow current and settled weather.

In April the prevailing winds are also from the eastward, but are much lighter and accompanied with calms and squally weather; from the latter end of this month to about the middle of May the monsoon gradually breaks up. The weather throughout this month is unsettled, the wind flying from all directions, accompanied with squally weather and passing showers of rain. The current begins to set gently to the northward about the end of the month.

Singapore Straits to Saigon,-in the S. W. Monsoon.

In this monsoon the winds prevail between S.E. and West in Singapore Straits, and ships will have no difficulty in sailing through to the eastward.

Having cleared the straits, shape a course to pass between the Brothers and the West end of Pulo Condore, making proper allowance while crossing the mouth of the gulf of Siam for a strong current setting to the eastward at the rate of about twenty-six miles per day. This happens during the height of the monsoon, in June, July, and August, when heavy westerly squalls, attended with loud thunder and vivid lightning, are frequent; and much rain will also be met with in these months. These squalls rise rapidly, giving little warning, and when dark clouds are seen banking up in the direction of the gulf, sail should be taken in without delay. After the strength of these squalls