rebel, and made him make concessions to them; and he leaves them without a Court-tant pis pour eux."

Now, I firmly believe that Duke Wilhelm hunts at Blankenburg, and stays away from his residence, because he is afraid of his ancestors of the Todtengrube.

CHAPTER VII.

LEIPSIC.

It was evening as we passed by Aschersleben, and the sun was setting. Such a sun-set! the distant towers were literally swathed in gold, and ever, as the sky grew redder, the antique spires grew darker, until, at length, they rose like black giant masts upon a crimson sea. Upon that eminence to the right, grow some of the finest beeches in Germany, and, upon still summer evenings, when you wander beneath their shade, you may hear the bell of the convent on the top of the hill, drop its sweet sounds into the lap of the passing wind, and remind good Christians of the Angelus. Here, amongst these peaceful solitudes, was closed one of the most stirring existences of our age Marshal Knesebeck, the last of the comrades of the great Frederick, and the man to

whom perhaps the greatest share is owing, in the defeat of Napoleon, in the Russian campaign.* The ancient warrior sank to his last slumbers, beneath the shade of his broad beechen boughs, brave as was his master, pious as he was not, and simple as only a child, or an old soldier knows how to be. The name of Knesebeck is an honoured one in Prussia, as well they know who wear it.

As you enter Magdeburg, you are frightened lest the cathedral should drop down upon, and crush you -it overhangs so immediately the line of the railway. Remembering Göthe's ballad, you look out for specimens of female beauty:

"Oh Magdeburg, the town

Of such fair maids and such fair wives's renown.”

* In 1812, in the very commencement of Napoleon's preparations for the Russian campaign, Marshal Knesebeck took to studying the probabilities of the contest; having made up his mind upon the subject, he sallied forth to the King, map and calculations in hand. "Sire," said he, the thing is as clear as day. The French will require such a given time for their movements-will arrive at such a given period; if the Emperor Alexander will remain quiet and wait for them, they are inevitably lost. The Russian army must not stir, but await the enemy at home." The King examined the calculations of the veteran warrior, was instantly persuaded of their truth, and Marshal Knesebeck was despatched to St. Petersburg, where, after a conference with the Emperor, his suggestions were acted upon, we all know with what success.

But the vestals and virgins who offer you oranges and beer, look to you as though they need have feared nothing even from Tilly's devastating hordes.

As we left Magdeburg, the moon was pillowing herself upon the waters of the Elbe, and a boatman upon the banks of the river was singing:

"Where is the German's fatherland?"

I fell to dreaming of her who first woke all these songs in Germany, of her whose beauty and whose sufferings fired all the youth of Teutonia to resistance, and from whose tears sprang forth the tree of freedom-of Louisa of Prussia.

Magdeburg was her Calais, and of her it was said, as of Queen Mary, that, could her heart be seen, the name of Magdeburg would be found graven on it.

Plains, uninterrupted, flat, monotonous, roll on before our eyes. Ever the same sombre immensity; a dark, unbroken surface, covered by a dark unclouded sky; not a hill on earth, not a star in Heaven, but the deep azure of the firmament tenanted only by the white moon, whose light seems but to make shadows darker. And so we pass by Anhalt and Halle, and so Leipsic.

we come, at last, to

"I must do honour to my excellent Leipsic,"

says one of Göthe's students in the 'Faust ;'"it is a little Paris, and knows how to make something out of a man."

A "little Paris" is perhaps un peu beaucoup, as our neighbours express it, but that Leipsic is a town perhaps unique in Germany is very certain, and it is better it should be so, for if there were many such places, it would be hard to say for whose advantage it might be. Mephistopheles, in the scene to which we have already alluded, gives the truest picture of the Leipsickers, in the following words:

་

"Every day is a holiday; with small wit and less comfort, each one turns round in his narrow circle, like a young cat after its tail. When they have not got the head-ache, and that the host will go on giving credit, they are happy and at ease."

This is Leipsic, the very kernel of the democratic nut, the capital of professor-ism (I must coin the word), and the head-quarters of Studentenwesen.* A town of books and Burschen, of drinking-cellars and printingpresses, where the fumes of ill-directed, ill-digested

* Studentenwesen is the abstract word for "student's life,” and could only be rendered by creating the word "studentism." The German language is more than ever full of such

terms.