falls of Niagara. There is nothing haughty or forbidding in the Americans; and wherever you meet them, they appear to be quite at home. This is exactly what it ought to be, and very much in favour of the foreigner who journeys amongst them. The immense number of highly polished females who go in the stages to visit the different places of amusement, and see the stupendous natural curiosities of this extensive country, incontestably proves that safety and convenience are ensured to them, and that the most distant attempt at rudeness would, by common consent, be immediately put down. By the time I had got to Schenectady, I began strongly to suspect that I had come into the wrong country to look for bugs, bears, brutes, and buffaloes. It is an enchanting journey from Albany to Schenectady, and from thence to Lake Erie. The situation of the city of Utica is particularly attractive; the Mohawk running close by it, the fertile fields and woody mountains, and the falls of Trenton, forcibly press the stranger to stop a day or two here, before he proceeds onward to the lake. At some far distant period, when it will not be possible to find the place where many of the celebrated cities of the East once stood, the world will have to thank the United States of America for bringing their names into the western regions. It is, indeed, a pretty thought of these people to FOURTH JOURNEY. JOURNEY. FOURTH give to their rising towns the names of places so famous and conspicuous in former times. Face of the country. As I was sitting one evening under an oak, in the high grounds behind Utica, I could not look down upon the city without thinking of Cato and his misfortunes. Had the town been called Crofton, or Warmfield, or Dewsbury, there would have been nothing remarkable in it; but Utica at once revived the scenes at school long past and half-forgotten, and carried me with full speed back again to Italy, and from thence to Africa. I crossed the Rubicon with Cæsar; fought at Pharsalia; saw poor Pompey into Larissa, and tried to wrest the fatal sword from Cato's hand in Utica. When I perceived he was no more, I mourned over the noble-minded man who took that part which he thought would most benefit his country, There is something magnificent in the idea of a man taking by choice the conquered side. The Roman gods themselves did otherwise. "Victrix causa Diis placuit, sed victa Catoni." "In this did Cato with the Gods divide, They chose the conquering, he the conquer'd side." The whole of the country from Utica to Buffalo is pleasing; and the intervening of the inland lakes, large and deep and clear, adds considerably to the effect. The spacious size of the inns, their excellent provisions, and the attention which the traveller receives in going from Albany to Buffalo, JOURNEY. must at once convince him that this country is FOURTH very much visited by strangers; and he will draw the conclusion that there must be something in it uncommonly interesting to cause so many travellers to pass to and fro. Nature is losing fast her ancient garb, and putting on a new dress in these extensive regions. Most of the stately timber has been carried away; thousands of trees are lying prostrate on the ground; while meadows, corn-fields, villages, and pastures are ever and anon bursting upon the traveller's view as he journeys on through the remaining tracts of wood. I wish I could say a word or two for the fine timber which is yet standing. Spare it, gentle inhabitants, for your country's sake; these noble sons of the forest beautify your landscapes beyond all description; when they are gone, a century will not replace their loss; they cannot, they must not fall; their vernal bloom, their summer richness, and autumnal tints, please and refresh the eye of man; and even when the days of joy and warmth are fled, the wintry blast soothes the listening ear with a sublime and pleasing melancholy as it howls through their naked branches. "Around me trees unnumber'd rise, Beautiful in various dyes. The gloomy pine, the poplar blue, The yellow beech, the sable yew; The slender fir, that taper grows, The sturdy oak, with broad-spread boughs." FOURTH JOURNEY. Buffalo. Niagara. A few miles before you reach Buffalo, the road is low and bad, and, in stepping out of the stage, I sprained my foot very severely; it swelled to a great size, and caused me many a day of pain and mortification, as will be seen in the sequel. Buffalo looks down on Lake Erie, and possesses a fine and commodious inn. At a little distance is the Black Rock, and there you pass over to the Canada side. A stage is in waiting to convey you some sixteen or twenty miles down to the falls. Long before you reach the spot you hear the mighty roar of waters, and see the spray of the far-famed falls of Niagara, rising up like a column to the heavens, and mingling with the passing clouds. The falls of At this stupendous cascade of nature, the waters of the lake fall one hundred and seventy-six feet perpendicular. It has been calculated, I forget by whom, that the quantity of water discharged down this mighty fall, is six hundred and seventy thousand two hundred and fifty-five tons per minute. There are two large inns on the Canada side; but, after you have satisfied your curiosity in viewing the falls, and in seeing the rainbow in the foam far below where you are standing, do not, I pray you, tarry long at either of them. Cross over to the American side, and there you will find a spacious inn, which has nearly all the attractions; there you meet with great attention, and every accommodation. JOURNEY. The day is passed in looking at the falls, and FOURTH in sauntering up and down the wooded and rocky environs of the Niagara; and the evening is often enlivened by the merry dance. ladies. Words can hardly do justice to the unaffected American ease and elegance of the American ladies who visit the falls of Niagara. The traveller need not rove in imagination through Circassia in search of fine forms, or through England, France, and Spain, to meet with polished females. The numbers who are continually arriving from all parts of the Union confirm the justness of this remark. I was looking one evening at a dance, being unable to join in it on account of the accident I had received near Buffalo, when a young American entered the ball-room with such a becoming air and grace, that it was impossible not to have been struck with her appearance. "Her bloom was like the springing flower That sips the silver dew, The rose was budded in her cheek, Just opening to the view." I could not help feeling a wish to know where she had "Into such beauty spread, and blown so fair." Upon inquiry, I found that she was from the city of Albany. The more I looked at the fair Albanese, the more I was convinced, that in the |