westerly winds a short sea sets into the lagoon, which renders it difficult to communicate with the shore; but those winds are of short duration, and only happen from October till April. A vessel anchoring here in these months, should ride with a long scope of cable, as the holding ground is not very good.

The Island of Uea is of coral formation, elevated on the south-east part about 250 feet and quite level on the top; the other parts of the island are not quite so high, and the whole of it is thickly wooded. From the east side to the centre of the island the ground is rocky and destitute of soil, but on the west side, around, and a little inland from the villages, the soil is good, and capable of producing every variety of tropical fruits and vegetables, and is well cultivated. These plantations produce beautiful tarro, sweet potatoes, bananas and sugar cane; but yams are not much cultivated.

Fresh water can be got in several places near the beach by digging wells in the sand, but there are neither running streams nor springs on the island.

The prevailing winds are from south-east, but from October until April westerly winds are frequently experienced, and gales happen some years in these months; they generally commence at north-east, haul round to north and north-west from whence they blow hardest, then round to south-west and moderate. Very little rain falls during the year.

I made Whiningay's village to be lat. 20° 34' S. and long. 166° 34′ E. It is high-water on full and change of the moon at six hours, greatest rise and fall of the tide six feet. At neaps, there is only one tide in 24 hours, and this is generally in the night; the water does not rise then above two feet.

Uea is divided into two tribes,-the southern tribe is governed by a king, named Whiningay, who is possessed of much power. The northern tribe has no king, but is governed by a council of chiefs. The two tribes are almost constantly at war, and are extremely jealous of each other. Their arms consist of clubs, spears, slings, and stones, and since our arrival tomahawks. The stones are of an oval shape, and when at war carried in a bag tied round the waist. The spear is thrown by the sip. Tomahawks are used as battle-axes, and preferred to any other weapon. Their wars are sometimes carried on in open fight. but stratagem is more generally resorted to. They frequently prowl about in small parties near the enemy's tribe, and lie in ambush for stragglers, whom they massacre without regard to age or sex. When one party is desirous of peace, some neutral person is sent to the other tribe with the king's tappa, which if accepted ends war for a time. But upon such frivolous pretences, are these treaties sometimes broken, that the chiefs seldom visit each other even after peace is declared.

The climate of these islands is salubrious, and well adapted to a European constitution. The warmest months are in the summer season from October till March, and during the other months the weather is cool and agreeable. Earthquakes are frequently experienced during the

summer months, and some of them are sufficiently severe to overthrow a stone house; but the shock seldom lasts more than two minutes, and the natives exhibit no fear on account of them.

The natives appear to be tolerably free from diseases; and those which came under my personal observation were colds, elephantiasis, hydrocele, and rheumatism; the latter disease appears to be the most prevalent, and attacks them in the bones of the legs, which they relieve by making an incision in to the bone with a shell over the part affected.

The Uea natives are generally above the middle size and display much variety of figure. Their complexion lies between that of the black and copper-coloured races, although instances of both extremes are met with, which would lead one to suppose that some of them are descended from two different stocks. They are much fairer than the Isle of Pine natives, and less savage in appearance; but like all savages, are treacherous and cruel, and are much addicted to thieving, coveting every thing they see. Both sexes have the lobe of the ear bored, which operation is performed at the age of puberty: the men distend the holes to a large size, by inserting rolls of tappa, pieces of wood and bunches of leaves, which completely alters the original shape of the ear, and gives it a most unnatural appearance. Their hair is frizzled, and they take great pains in dressing it, with a comb made of two long and slender pins or prickers; when dressed it has a large bushy appearance similar to a mop. Many of the boys and girls whiten their hair with lime, which when they grow up gives it a brown appearance, similar to the colour of their skin. The wooden hair pricker or pin is worn as an indication of rank. The king wears it in the front of his hair; the chiefs a little on one side, while the lower class have it tied round the neck, and hanging down the back. These natives are seldom seen painted unless when going to war, at which time they use a sort of lamp black, or soot, to blacken the face and breast. They pay great respect to their king and chiefs, and never attempt to pass them without stooping, and lowering their clubs. The men go entirely naked, and are not circumcised. The women when married wear a fringe around the body about six inches in breadth, which has a more decent appearance than that worn by the females of the other islands.

The daughters of chiefs are usually betrothed to chiefs' sons, by the parents of both parties, several years before they are marriageable. At this island strict chastity is observed among both sexes before marriage, and promiscous intercourse expressly forbidden. It is difficult to account for this difference in the morals of the inhabitants of two islands so near to each other as this and Lifu. There, neither men nor women are under any restraint in this respect before marriage.

The ornaments worn by these people are beads made of Jade stone, and strung on a thick string made from the down of the vampire bat, or flying fox; these strings are also worn by the chiefs around the knees and waist. Shell armlets are worn by some of the chiefs and their children. The shells of which the armlets are formed are held in much estimation, and are only to be found in New Caledonia. Since their

intercourse with Europeans, glass beads form their chief ornaments. The large blue beads are the most highly esteemed.

Although otherwise cruel, these people are kind and affectionate to their children, and seldom punish them even for the most insolent or passionate behaviour.

The natives of Uea are cannibals, and invariably eat the bodies of their enemies slain in battle with as much relish and satisfaction as any of their neighbours. When at war, women are often cut off (by small parties of the enemy) when fishing on the reefs, and their bodies carried home to administer to their cannibal appetites.

In regard to the population, I found it difficult to obtain correct information, but I should estimate it to be about 4,000 souls.

Beaupre's Islands are correctly placed in the charts. They consist of three small low islands, covered with cocoa-nut trees, and surrounded by a coral reef which extends from the islands some distance to the north-west and north. The largest island is inhabited by some Uea natives.

A dangerous coral reef of about one mile in extent was seen by me in October 1842. It is situated in lat. 19° 55' S., long. 165° 25′ E. This danger is not laid down in any charts which I have seen.

Mr. Thomas Beckford Simpson, master of a sandal-wood vessel, discovered a dangerous reef in 1846 off the east part of New Caledonia. He examined it and found it to be of large extent. The position he assigns to it, is lat. 21° 30′ S., long, 166° 50′ E.

Walpole Island is only about a mile in extent, elevated about 200 feet, and level on the top, with high perpendicular cliffs on the west side. It is covered with brushwood, and in fine weather a landing might be effected on some parts of the east side. I found it correctly placed in the charts, its position being in lat. 22° 40' S., long. 169° 15' E.

The French corvette La Brilliante on the 28th of August, 1847, discovered a dangerous coral reef forty yards in extent in lat. 23° 13′ 52" S., long. 167° 35′ 18′′ E. of Paris.

I passed near St. Matthew's Rock in 1841, on my passage from Sydney to Manila in the Diana, and made it in lat. 22° 25′ S., long. 171° 20' E., by chronometers from Sydney.

The position I have assigned to Hunter Island in my chart is according to Captain Wilke's of the United States Exploring Expedition, who examined it on his passage to Sydney.

The positions of the following dangers are from the authority of Mr. Thomas Beckford Simpson of Sydney: a group of low coral islands covered with cocoa-nut trees, and inhabited in lat. 4° 52' S., long. 160° 12' E., and a dangerous reef lies in each of the following positions:Lat. 5° 0' S., Long 159° 20′ E. Lat. 20° 5' S., Long. 160° 30' E.

A dangerous reef lies forty miles east of Rotumah.

A dangerous reef lies between the island of Malanta and Guadalcanar, Solomon's Archipelago, supposed to be in lat. 9° S. I have been told by masters of whale ships that it lies nearly in the middle of Indispensible Straits. I believe the brig Melrose was wrecked on it.

I discovered a shoal off the Eddystone Island, New Georgia, in 1843. It bears from the Eddystone S.S.W., distant three miles, and has not less than five fathoms water on the shoalest part.

In February, 1843, I came through Bougainville Straits from the northward in the night; and at daylight in the morning when about midway between Cape Alexander and Choiseul Bay, off shore five miles, we saw the rocks under the bottom, and had a cast of the lead in nine fathoms; we then hauled off to the westward, and immediately got out of soundings.

The weather being squally with a threatening appearance I did not think it prudent to stand in again, but the idea I formed at the time was, that the whole line of coast from Cape Alexander to the north side of Choiseul Bay was fronted with dangerous shoals and coral patches, and that a vessel bound through Bougainville's Straits should not approach nearer to that coast than five miles until better examined. A master of a whaler told me some years ago that he once came through Bougainville's Straits in the night, and that in one place he saw the bottom, and had a cast of the lead in seven fathoms,

The whole of the Solomon Archipelago requires to be surveyed, as the charts in use at present are very erroneous. Merchant ships passing through this Archipelago should hold no intercourse with the natives, as they are not to be trusted.

Stewart Islands consist of five small coral islands, covered with cocoanut trees, connected by coral reefs, forming a lagoon inside, and visible from a ship's deck about twelve miles. The easternmost and largest island is about one mile and a quarter in length. It is situated in lat. 8° 24' 24" S., long. 163° 2' E. This position will be found nearly correct, and I would advise all ships bound to China or Manila, from New South Wales, to sight this group for the purpose of testing their chronometers. No danger need be apprehended from the hostility of its inhabitants, as they are very hospitable, and few in number, there being only thirtyeight able bodied men on the group.

The whole pupulation in 1847 amounted to 171 souls. Nearly all the males can speak English. They rear pigs and fowls, which they bring off and sell to ships for tobacco, calico, &c. A hog weighing 100lbs. can be purchased for 5lbs. of tobacco, or 10 yards of cheap calico. I have had much intercourse with these natives and can recommend them as being trustworthy.

Bond Reefs and New Caledonia appear very correctly placed in the

charts.

The Island of Anatam, New Hebrides, is about thirty miles in circumference. It is very high land, and may be seen forty five miles in clear weather.

I made it in lat. 20° 8' S., long. 170° 4' E. It has a harbour on the NO. 11.-VOL. XVII.

4 D

south-west side formed by a sand islet and reefs, but it is open to westerly winds.

It is however safe from April till October, (the south-east trade blowing steady during these months), and is resorted to by sandal-wood vessels occasionally.

Excellent fresh water can be obtained within a short distance of the anchorage, and firewood can be obtained in abundance. The natives are similar in appearance to those of Tanna, and their manners and customs much the same. The immolation of widows is practised here. The island hardly produces food enough to supply the wants of the inhabitants, and consequently visitors can obtain no refreshments from the natives.

Mr. James Paddon formed an establishment at this island in 1843, and has remained there since. He has several houses built on the sand islet where he resides, and three or four small vessels, engaged collecting sandal-wood from the other islands. Ships in want of supplies can generally obtain anything they require from Mr. Paddon at a moderate price.

The island of Tanna is very fertile, and well inhabited by a stout race of men, similar in complexion to those of the Loyalty Islands. Like their neighbours they are all cannibals, and by no means should be trusted. The entrance of Port Resolution bears east from the volcano; therefore a ship bound in may always find the harbour by steering towards the volcano, after getting it to bear west. Tanna produces an abundance of excellent yams, and ships may obtain a large supply at a moderate price. Port Resolution is situated in lat. 19° 32′ S., long. 169° 44' E.

Erromanga is high and rocky, and presents an iron bound shore nearly all round, with deep water close to the breakers, and no hidden dangers. It has no harbours, but anchorage may be found in Cook's Bay on the east side, and Dillon's Bay on the west. In Dillon's Bay, the bank is steep to; the soundings extend a very short distance from the shore, and the best anchorage is in twelve fathoms off the mouth of the river. No stranger should anchor here unless in a case of necessity, as the natives are hostile and treacherous, and should the wind set in from the westward a large vessel would have little chance of getting underway or beating out. The sandal-wood vessels are always ready for slipping in case of a westerly wind setting in. This island produces nothing beyond the immediate want of the inhabitants, and consequently holds out no inducement for vessels to visit it, except for sandal-wood. Its natives are cannibals, and are darker in complexion than those of Tanna, with woolly hair like negroes.

Sandwich Island is of large extent, moderately elevated, and presents a beautiful appearance. It is the finest island of the New Hebrides, and the best adapted for colonization. It produces many varieties of fine timber; the soil is good, and the vegetation luxuriant, yams, and sweet potatoes of a superior quality are extensively cultivated by the natives. It also produces bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, and sugar cane in abundance. The sandal-wood tree grows on this island.