pursuits in some measure analogous to our own as an extremely interest ing circumstance. Mr. Audubon informed me that he is about to proceed in the same direction as ourselves, stopping at the small harbours where birds abound, so that I trust we shall meet often. He shewed me a letter from H.R.H. the Duke of Sussex, as President of the Royal Society, recommending him to the kindness and attention of Her Majesty's officers, and I offered him any assistance in my power. He said that he should avail himself of it in case of need, as he feared he might meet with some opposition or annoyance from the "Eggers;" a set of people whom we now first heard spoken of thus collectively as a body.

We had heard that small vessels came to the coast for eggs, but had no idea of the extent of the "egging business," as our informant termed it. It was reported to us that in some seasons full twenty small schooners or shallops, from 20 to 30 tons load with eggs from this coast. Halifax is the great market for them, where they at times fetch a much higher price than hen's eggs. They are also taken to Boston and other places. They are stowed in the hold in bulk, and keep for many weeks without any preparation.

These men, the eggers, combine together and form a strong company. They suffer no one to interfere with their business, driving away the fishermen, or any one else that attempts to collect eggs near where they happen to be. Might makes right with them, if our information be true. They have arms, and are said by the fishermen not to be scrupulous in the use of them. As soon as they have filled one vessel with eggs, they send her to market, others follow in succession, so that the market is always supplied, but never overstocked; one vessel of 25 tons is said to have cleared £200 by this "egging business" in a favourable season.

Little Natashquan is a small anchorage or harbour among the rocks just large enough for the Gulnare. There are thousands of rocks and small granite islets along this coast, and many anchorages like this among them which no chart could show the way into. With a clear sky and smooth sea, when the bottom can be seen in three fathoms, with a handy and quick working vessel, and a bright look out, you may find your way into such places, the existence of which is always shown by crosses, or piles of stones or drift wood upon the islets; these are placed as guides by the fishermen.

We suffered a very vexatious detention at Little Natashquan, the S. and S.E. wind blowing continually, with fog and rain. It cleared partially occasionally, which enabled one of my assistants to make a plan of the harbour, and I obtained the necessary observations for our chronometer, &c. The Ripley, Mr. Audubon's schooner, was also detained. On the 28th June a sudden squall from the N. W. dispelled the fog. The Ripley weighed and stood out at 2 P.M., and we unmoored and followed her in about five minutes. The wind had backed to the southward of west as we were weighing, and was still hauling round to the southward by degrees.

The Ripley was very nearly ashore on the east point of the harbour from this cause, barely weathering it by her own breadth, and being too

near to attempt to tack in so light a breeze and so heavy a swell. We watched her with much anxiety; had she struck she must have been lost. We had, however, hardly time to rejoice at her escape before we approached the point also, and, at first, I thought we should weather it easily; the wind, however, headed us suddenly, and more than it had done the Ripley, and obliged us to tack when within twenty yards of the point. There was but little room for a vessel of 150 tons to beat, for the rocks on the west side of the channel were not more than four times the length of the vessel from us. We, therefore, let her fall well off before we hauled the head-yards, and ran back the same way we came. The western channel appeared the widest, and I determined to attempt beating out through it, although only 90 fathoms wide, rather than suffer any further detention. We, therefore, hauled round the inner end of the reef, in the centre of the entrance, and which forms the two channels into the harbour, close as we dared, and with a leadman in each chains. This last precaution was merely matter of form in the event of accident, for I felt assured that it was perfectly useless, the granite rocks rising in steep mounds from deep water, so that there is no warning by the lead. We considered that we had found all the hidden rocks in the channel, and we certainly had done our best to effect it; we, therefore, went on confidently and prosperously. The Gulnare sailing and working in her usual style, had in three boards nearly cleared the narrow channel, although she had scarcely time to get way on one tack before we were obliged to put her on the other. We were making our second board to the westward, in the narrowest part of the channel, the next to the eastward would have taken us out clear; the order was given ready about," the helm was put down, and the Gulnare was ranging ahead in stays, when she suddenly struck abaft, gave a slight heel, and began to swing round to leeward, being afloat forward.

66

Perceiving that as soon as she fell off sufficiently to fill the sails, that she would drag over the rock upon which she barely touched abaft, I ordered the after sails to be instantly taken in, the head-yards thrown flat aback, so as to box her off, and head sheets to windward, keeping the foresail set to assist in paying her off more rapidly, for there was a rocky islet, not our own length, ahead of us, on which she would have run stem on as soon as she floated, had not the preparatory arrangements just related been performed. As it was, a man might have leaped from our flying-jib boom end upon the rocks as she fell off before the wind, checked in her headway by grazing upon the rock with her heel. In the swing round she floated, and having had enough of it for one trial, I ran back and moored again at 5 P.M., in our old berth. We were not aground above a minute or two, there was no sea fortunately, for it was broken off by reefs to windward, and it was dead low water. No injury was done, even to the rates of the chronometers, for the Doctor instantly ran down to them and took them in his hand till we were afloat. A boat was sent to examine this rock, it was found to have deep water between it and the shore, although so close to it, and we had 4 fathoms in one chain and 3 in the other when she

struck. The rock, thus practically discovered, was duly entered in the chart, and we learnt that the Gulnare could beat through a channel less than a cable's length wide, but that it was not expedient to make her do so in such places as Little Natashquan.

On the following day, the 29th June, we at last got clear of Little Natashquan; the wind had been in during the morning, but veered to W.b.S., at 9 A.M. This wind would allow of our standing out between the reefs close hauled, but I knew by the experience of yesterday that it would head us at the most critical time, by hauling in round the point of the islands, or that it was more from the southward outside, the difference being caused by the shape of the land and islands. In order that we should not keep more away than necessary to avoid the central reef, I despatched the gig to lie on the lee side of it, and as we found in weighing yesterday that the ground was so good as to allow us to heave close up to the anchor, I took advantage of that circumstance to set every sail, fore and aft, previously to weighing. Imagine us, therefore, hove short with every sail, gaff top-sail, royal, &c. set, and so disposed as instantly to cast the vessel to the southward; about one-third of a cable's length under our stern is a rocky point-we have, therefore, no room for accidents. The order is given to heave away, the anchor is torn from the ground, the head-yards swung, and the Gulnare springs at once from her anchorage under every sail that will draw-she passes close to the boat, and has now passed to the S.E. end of the reef, the point to be cleared is a cable's length broad on her lee bow, and to all appearance she will weather it with ease. But now no longer sheltered by the reef she begins to feel the S. W. swell on her weather bow, and what is worse, the wind heads her at the same time; she must be tacked at once whilst there is room, and I was about to give the order before it should be too late, when the wind again favoured us a point, and induced me to proceed. The die was cast-round she must go, or ashore on the point of craggy rocks now not 10 fathoms under her lee, there is neither room to stay nor to anchor-again the wind heads us, and yet we dare not lift a sail; the point is now abreast of our gangway, and not fifteen yards distant. The wind is light and baffling, and the swell occasionally shakes it out of our sails; never did she appear to go so slowly before. The officers look steadily, but with compressed lips, at the surf running up the end of the point which we are slowly passing; by a compound motion of headway and drift, the vessels head being turned from the danger as much as the wind will allow. The leadsman cries "a quarter less three," we expect her to strike every instant, and hold our breaths to meet the shock. The point is only ten yards off, but it is abaft the beam, keep her rap full, and in another minute she is safe, having slowly shot past the point which immediately afterwards is right astern from the heave of the sea and lightness of the wind.

It took us several tacks more before we got into deep water and clear of the numerous reefs. During these boards the soundings were not suited to weak nerves, and rather startling to firm ones, from 10 to 21 fathoms occurring frequently; in short, the small harbours among the

rocky islets and reefs of this dangerous coast are only fit for small fishing or egging schooners, of from fifteen to fifty tons, and even they must keep a bright look out, and mind what they are about.

The last day of June was passed at Kegashka, where we anchored for observations, and to dispatch a surveying boat, to add to the detail of last year's survey, as far as the Southmaker's ledge; and to examine a harbour near it, named Wapitagun by the fishermen, in readiness to take the Gulnare in on her arrival.

The 1st July was the second very fine day we have experienced this season, a day which reminded us of other climates. After sounding along the coast, and seeing that there was no shoal water outside the reefs, omitted last year, we hauled round the Cormorant rocks, passing between them and the Southmaker's ledge late in the afternoon.

The surveying boat had just arrived, and consequently had not had time to examine the place, and we should have had some difficulty and ran some risk in getting into the harbour, if Mr. Emery, the master of the Ripley, American schooner, employed by Mr. Audubon, had not kindly come off to us and piloted the Gulnare in. We were, in consequence, safely moored in Wapitagun, near the Ripley, by 7 P.M.

Wapitagun is a harbour secure from all winds, sufficiently large and deep for vessels of any size when once they are in, but the entrances both to the W. and E. are extremely narrow between islands, and it is necessary to turn short round at right angles when coming in by the western entrance, which is the one generally used, because the westerly winds are the only clear winds, and it is only in clear weather that a vessel can venture near such a place. Great promptness and attention in the management of the sails of a vessel are necessary in entering such narrow and intricate channels.

There is no difficulty in making this harbour, for the Southmaker's ledge lies directly opposite to it, and about three and a-half miles off shore. It is a solitary rock, which just covers at high-water in calm weather, but which is usually covered with foaming breakers. When there is a heavy swell from the southward they fly up every now and then to a great height, like the spouting of a whale. Lake Island is immediately to the westward of the harbour, and may be known by its precipices of red granite, 100 feet high, and which are stained white in patches by the cormorants that breed upon them. These red cliffs are higher than any others near. Extending from the west end of Lake Island towards the Southmaker's ledge, lie a chain of bare rocks, which I have named the Cormorant rocks; there is a wide channel between them and the Southmaker's ledge.

The islands which form the harbour are so close together as to appear like one large island when seen from sea. On a point about two miles eastward from the western, and half a mile from the eastern entrance is a very remarkable rock, which looks like a gun or mortar; a singular coincidence, for the seamen and fishermen think the name of the harbour derived from this rock, whereas it is more probably an Indian name.

It is some days since we left the Gulnare to carry on the survey in

the boats, it being altogether impossible to do anything with the vessel till we have first acquired some knowledge of the labyrinth of islets, rocks, and reefs which hide the main land; and of the numerous sunken rocks, many of which have 50 fathoms of water close to them. I cannot more readily give you an idea of the harrassing nature of this service and climate than by describing a three weeks' excursion from the vessel in the most favourable month of the year, July.

A NOTE ON THE NAVIGATION OF THE BAY OF FUNDY.-By Com. W. Peel, H.M.S. Daring.

THE prevailing winds in this Bay during the months of July, August, and September, are from the South-east and S.S. W., which roll in before them a dense wall of fog that penetrates everywhere, and which is only occasionally lifted by a change of wind from the northward.

The navigation, therefore, during this period, particularly in the month of August, requires great firmness and caution, but is far from being so dangerous as represented. Unfortunately, from the short summer of the climate and long severity of winter the whole activity of trade is compressed into this brief period.

The northern shore of the Bay of Fundy is clear and bold to, in its whole extent, with several beautiful harbours, and a safe deep passage between it and Grand Manan Island, whilst the Wolf Islands, or the very remarkable rock called the "White Horse," are a guide against being carried by the tide into the channels that open the Pagana Quoddy Waters. A ship, therefore, may with proper precautions, navigate along this shore in perfect safety. It is the passage between Grand Manan Island and the Nova Scotian shore that is really dangerous, but here no ship should attempt to pass without the prospect of clear weather. She may anchor in Brier Island Passage, if coming from the northward, or in St. Mary's Bay, if from the south, until an opportunity occurs. To pass through the passage formed by Brier Island would at once clear everything; but the tide runs through with great rapidity, and breaks across in a heavy ripple. A rock also exists in the channel, the position of which is not generally known. The "Daring" attempted once to beat through, but the pilot had mistaken the time of tide, and when half way, losing his nerve, he gave up charge. I have no doubt, however, but that it would be of great service to the commerce of St. John, New Brunswick, to have attention drawn to this passage, as the means of clearing the dangers outside; for there is this other advantage in standing close in to the Nova Scotia shore, which is the reverse on the other side of the bay, that the fog seldom comes close home. For this reason, and also on account of the Bank of Soundings, in coming from the eastward into the Bay of Fundy, I would prefer coming up by the Nova Scotia shore, to standing across for the other side, as recommended in the General Directions.

The tides in the Bay of Fundy, though extremely rapid, are very re4 Q

NO. 12.-VOL. XVII.