rigged over the hole of the casing, pay out a warp down the trunk, bring the end in over the taffrail by the bight of a line thrown over it, pass this end of the warp through the hole for the tiller, take two half hitches round the standing part and stop the end, pass the other end of the warp through the block at the head of the sheers, and lead it to the winch.

Hang a kedge to the heel and throw all overboard. Heave on the winch till the rudder comes up high enough through the casing; lead the chains at the heel forward to the fore chains, and the upper to the mizen chains; bring them inboard, and set them taut.

7. How do you recover the kedge after the rudder is placed?

Make a sheep-shank, slip one bight over the heel of the main piece before it is thrown overboard, and fasten the end to the kedge; lay the sheep-shank along the main piece and stop it high up. When the rudder is in its place, this stop is cast off, and the weight of the kedge slips the bight off the heel, and the kedge is brought in over the taffrail.

8. How do you protect the rudder trunk casing from the play of the rudder ?

By bolting two spars athwartships, and other two over these, fore and aft, so as partly to cover the hole, and chocking up the four corners.

9. How would you prevent the chains from chafing your ship?

Nail battens on the parts where the chains would chafe and woold and serve the chains.

10.

How would you rig a jury rudder for a steamer ? As the trunk would be too small for a topmast to go in, I should cut the main piece only long enough to reach its lower hole; shape the rudder as before; fix the main piece to a cross-head, and suspend it by a warp down the rudder trunk casing, hung in a pair of sheers. The upper

chains will lead from the ends of the cross-head, but the lower chains would be cut to pieces by the screw, to prevent which, make the heel of the main piece lower than the rudder-post, and have chain crossed low down.

Steer with chains from the outer edge, as in an ordinary rudder of a Steamer.

G

11. If you were within a day or two of your port, would you go to all this trouble?

No: I would get a long spar out aft, with chain round the outer end to weight it, and a warp or chain middled round the end; the parts brought to blocks at the ends of boomkins or outriggers for the purpose; and so inboard to the barrel of the wheel.

12. How would you keep it off the taffrail?

Suspend it in the crutch of a small pair of shears aft. 13. The following is another plan of making a temporary rudder, which has been much approved by many experienced

seamen.

No.1.

No. 2.

No.3.

I would first cut lengths of the largest rope hawser on board, having them twice the length of the rudder intended to be made; then doubling their ends together, the bights would form the rudder head, through which the tiller might be placed and secured, (No. 1) using as many parts of the rope as the size of the rudder would require, occasionally stiffened and filled up with wood or bars of iron, and bind the whole tight round with good small lines as far down as where the projection of the rudder will be required; then placing a piece of strong wood horizontally between the layers of the hawser, leaving as much projecting as the size of the rudder would require, over which I would place the bight of other pieces of hawser, whose ends would reach the ends of the first pieces, (No. 2) then bind all together as before, (No. 3) and hang it in the same manner as explained in the preceding answer. The tiller must be unshipped while the rudder is being hung.

SEAMANSHIP.

1. How would you moor a ship in a bay or roadstead?

Having come to with a single anchor, I would endeavour to ascertain if the place was attended with any local dangers, such as a heavy swell, or strong sea setting in, or whether the wind was more boisterous from any one point than from others. On ascertaining this, I would run out a kedge and lines in the direction I intended to lay the second anchor, which would be in such a place that, when moored, the ship might bear equal strain on both anchors from the point from which most danger might be apprehended; then haul the ship out by the lines, veering away at the same time the cable of the anchor already down to the end. If greater scope were required, I would bend on warps, and veer away sufficient for the purpose, and then let go the other anchor, veering away the cable as the cable of the first anchor was being hove in, until the ship was in a good position between the two anchors.

2. Is this rule preferable in all places and under all circumstances?

No there are places where the land is very high, and covered with snow for the greater part of the year, (such as the coast of Anatolia, on the south side of the Black Sea, with many other places of the same nature,) thereby causing the atmosphere to remain so cold, that although it may be blowing a gale of wind in the offing, (where it is much warmer) directly towards the land, yet it no sooner reaches the land, than it is repulsed or driven back by coming in contact with the coldness of the land; it will then be succeeded by light airs from the land, and squalls flying about in different directions; and a ship moored in the foregoing manner would be constantly turning round and round, having sometimes her stern and sometimes her beam to the sea, thereby causing her to roll very heavily, and in a manner that might prove very injurious to her, besides stopping all possibility of working cargo.

3. How would you moor her under such circumstances?

I would lay the best bower anchor to seaward, say, from the starboard bow, and the small bower or port anchor in a direct line towards the land, at the greatest distance my

cables would reach, placing the ship in a good position between the two anchors. I would then have a good rope hawser, out of the port quarter, made fast to the in-shore cable, at a short distance from the stern of the vessel, and by keeping this tight the vessel must consequently lay with her head to seaward, under all circumstances, or any change of wind, and will in this manner keep end-on to the swell of the sea rolling towards the land. Provided, however, it comes on to blow from the land, or on either beam, very hard, slack down the hawser, and the vessel will instantly swing round head to wind, and is still properly moored.

4. If you were riding in a strong tide, with the wind right aft, how would you act?

In all probability the vessel would have to be steered as if under weigh. However, if the tide is not too strong, she will lie on either side of the anchor with a very small · sheer, bracing the after yards up the same way as she is sheered, with the head yards remaining square. As the tide eases the sheer must be strengthened until the helm is hard over, then set the staysail, or other small sails, to keep the cable tight while passing the anchor. I would always let the vessel pass and re-pass, flood and ebb, on the same side of the anchor, if possible.

5. How would you box-haul a ship?

Put the helm down, light up the head sheets, and slack the lee braces, to deaden her way; as she comes to the wind, raise tacks and sheets, and haul up the mainsail and spanker; as soon as she comes head to the wind, and loses her head-way, square the after yards, and brace the head yards sharp aback, and flatten in the head sheets; the helm being down, will pay her off as she has sternway; as she goes off, keep the after yards lifting and square the head yards, shift the helm; when she gets the wind on the other quarter, haul out the spanker, set the main-sail, and brace the after yards up; and as she comes to on the other tack, brace up the head yards, and meet her with the helm.

6. On a lee-shore, by standing on, you must go on shore; you can clear the land on the other tack, but it blows hard, with a head swell, and she will not stay; you cannot veer; how would you get on the other tack if you had good anchorage ground?

I should club-haul her; cock-bill the lee anchor, get a hawser on it for a spring, and lead it to the lee quarter; range the cable and unshackle it abaft the windlass ; "Helm's a-lee ;" raise tacks and sheets as for going in stays; as soon as she loses head-way, let go the anchor, and "Mainsail haul;" as soon as she brings her head to the wind, let the chain cable go, holding on the spring; when the after-sails take full, cut the spring, "Let go and haul;" trim all to the wind.

7. If you had no anchorage ground?

I should give her a stern-board. Put the helm down, swing the main yard, trip the after sails up, and she will pay round on her heel.

8. You are lying to in a gale of wind, and cannot shew a bit of canvas, how would you prevent the ship from falling off?

Roll up a tarpaulin, take it to the mizen weather rigging, and let it go the wind will unroll it and keep it firm. 9. You are scudding, how would you guard against the ship broaching to?

If scudding under the main topsail and foresail, I would keep the fore topmast staysail set, with the weather sheet hauled flat aft; but if under bare poles, and the ship was likely to broach to, I would haul my fore yards sharp forward to the wind, to meet her. In extreme cases, the bight of a hawser hung over the stern, with a good length of rope, has been found very efficacious.

19. If your masts were all cut away in a gale, how could you keep her head to wind and sea?

By paying out a sea-anchor a-head.

11. Being totally dismasted, how would you act?

The nature of such a loss will not admit of any definite instructions being given, so much depending upon the situation of the vessel, and the circumstances connected with it, whether caused by a sudden squall of wind, or from a long and heavy gale; and also whether near the land, or a great distance from it.

12. What method would you use under these circumstances?