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cook their victuals, we could not march with a yellow ring on a black ground, and till 1h 50'. The heat was very great. having a large horn in the tail. Two At five hundred paces a strong sul- species of locusts breed here ; one with phureous smell issues from hot springs; purple wings ; by clapping the horny the rocks stained yellow with sulphur, cases strongly together it makes a smart which appears in considerable quantity crack as it fies. The other is twice as mixed with earth in interstices betwixt large, the carcase and wings, of a yellow masses of rock. At two thousand eight colour, spotted with points a little darker. hundred and seventy-five, the channel of High wind from the Himáchal, which the river from being broad suddenly re lasted from three to nightfall. Thermoduced to fifty yards ; road along its edge meter at seven P. M. 56'. stony.
Reached our ground at sevon August 19th.--Slight frost. ThermoP.M., eight thousand three hundred and meter 37°. March at 7. At one thoueighty-three paces. This has been one sand three hundred paces, observe that of the most rugged marches we have had the two rivers which we crossed yesterin the Undés. As it grew dark, we fired day join due east about vine hundred carbines occasionally to apprise our peo- yards. At five thousand commence ascenple behind of the direction we were en ding the gorge, and reach the summit of camped in ; and at half past nine had height which shuts the valley. At five the satisfaction to see them arrive with thousand two hundred anil forty, arrive out having met with any serious acci at a pile of stones and descend by a dent.
tolerably good road, on which were many August 18th. -- Thermometer 37o. small fragments of different coloured jasMarch at 8h 55'. Some of the yak cows per and white agate : to the right is the left the watercourse and went up the
river formed by two streams, and now rock, the face of which became steeper as ruuning parallel to our live of march they advanced. One of them, finding about 23 miles distant. At fifteen thouherself separated from the great mass of sand seven hundred commence descenher companions, without hesitation ding; the town of Dumpú in sight. This leaped from a height of about fourteen is built on a steep eminence forning part fcet into the dry water-course, appa.
of a ridge stretching from the side of a rently without being hurt by the shock, mountain and sloping to a river, but and her example was followed by those rising at least three hundred feet above which had taken the same path.
the bed of the latter. Some ruined buildAt six thousand nine hundred paces, ings on another eminence are separated commevce descending to a river formed from the town by a deep glen, in which of two branches, the right coming from runs a stream of delicious water. The S. 5 W. the left S. 35 W. They run banks of this watercourse, cut into N. 30 E. At seven thousand six huu- steps or narrow beds, are now covered dred and twenty-five reach the point at by the grain called Awa jail, now in ear, which the streanis just mentioned join, and watered by cuts from the stream and breaking through a high mountain, begun near its source. The relief afforfall into the Setlej. The bank on this ded to the eye by duvelling upon this, after side is as it were dissected, the softer having been so long tired with the reparts having been washed from the harder petition of bare rocks and of plains most strata : the latter present a very irregu- scantily sprinkled with verdure, is such lar and extraordinary projecting surface. as cannot be conceived except by those At seven thousand seven hundred, cross who chance to liave been in such situathe river 15 feet deep. At eight thou tions. The inhabitants have also been sanıl, descend to second river, the water equally industrious in turning to account of which is more clear, and its banks af a shelf of gently sloping land at the foot ford more grass and furze for fuel. At of the ridge watered by the large river. eight thousand and fifty cross and encamp The regularity and luxuriance of the crop at one P. M. Here we observed on the shew that the soil would be very grateful banks of the river many larva of a kind if the farmer would irrigate sufficiently, of locust, which breeds on the stony August 20th.-Halt at Dúmpú. Therplains of Tatary, marked on the body mometer 49o. The warmest day we
have had since our arrival on the Undés. forty feet high into a ravine, and alAmer Singh arrived at ten this morning. though they had struggled much to disentIt appears that a dawk or post carried by tangle themselves, lay on their backs horses regularly goes from Ghertope to unable to get up ; on the ropes being cut, Ouchong (Lassa). Each horse performs they rose apparently with very little injutwenty kos a day; and the journey takes ry. Thermometer at night 55°. up twenty-two days at this rate. So that,
August 22d.-Thermometer 372. March giving the kos as two miles, the distance
at 8h 45. At eleven thousand nine hunmay be estima ed at eight hundred and
dred paces arrive at a pile of stones with eighty miles. The intermediate country religious inscriptions carved upon them. is most thinly peopled. The shawl goats Dábá looks larger from hence than from are from Laiákh to Lassa, where it is
the approach to it on the Niti road. We said there are sheep with fiuer wool than
were welcomed by a croud of half-naked here. The Quchong merchants buy wool- dirty ragged children in terms of friendlen cloth at Ghertope from the Latékhí ship, and they were made happy for the and Juári traders.
moment by a few scraps of broken bisThis day has been hot with the excep cuit and some raisins. We proceeded to tion of about half an hour, during which our original encampment in the town, we had a smart shower of bail. There having completed twelve thousand five mometer at night 56o. We were obliged hundred and seventy-five paces 'at 4h 401 to halt this day, on account of our cattle P. M. We thought it proper to inform being much tired, not only from the con the Wuzir and Déba of our arrival, and tinued marching that they have had, but to enquire when it would be agreeable to from their having seldom been able to them that we should pay them a visit ; fill their bellies on account of the scarcity to this a reply was sent, that they should of grass in the course of our route. be glad to see us the following morning.
August 21st -Therniometer 45°. Leave About half past eight in the evening, the Dúmpú itt 8h 50%. At three hundred and old pundit came to say that the moon was eighty paces cross a small river, the water eclipsed, and we immediately heard the froin which is made use of for irrigating sound of trumpets and beating of drums some steps of land sown with Awu jau. and gongs from the temple of Narayan, At six thousand five hundred and fourteen and that erected on the site of the old reach table-land; a house of unburnt palace of the Surjabans Raja. This I bricks about eighty yards to the left ; to presume was intended to drive away the the S. four or five others, which consti dragon, which during the time of an tute the village of Gengoul, formerly eclipse, is supposed by the Chinese to tolerably populous, but now nearly deser attempt to devour the moon. This eclipse ted. It bears S. 60 W. from our encamp was a total one; but the obscurity was ment at six thousand seven hundred and much less dense than I ever before obforty, at which we arrived at two P. M.
served it. Thermometer at night 55°. The furze adjoining the Awu jau fields, August 23d.—Halt at Dábá, or as prowith some springy land, formed a favour. nounced, Dhápá. Thermometer 40° at ite resort to hares ; and many Chakórs* sun rise. At nive a messenger from the were heard in the neighbouring bills, and Wazir and Déla stated that they were taking our guvs, Mr. H. and myself had ready to receive us. In an apartment on good sport. Found a partridge very like the roof of the government house, we that of England in plumage and size, but found the Wazir and Déba, along with which had a strange gruuting call. This the brother of the Garpan, and a person bird ran astonishingly swift, and I could whom we took for a commander of not make it take wing. The Chakórs cavalry, seated in an open verandah, in breed in the bill, and afforded excel ut front of which we placed ourselves on a diversion, although at the same time it cushion. The presents made this time was very laborious and not without were less costly than those on our first danger. This day three of our loaded interview with the young Wazir and yaks fell over a steep bank from thirty to Débe. After the usual complimentary
enquiries, the Garpán's brother remarked * Perdix rufa.
that our journey had taken up a consi
derable time, and that he feared, if our lately dead ; and with his own hand he return to Hindústan were much longer struck off from a wooden block another delayed, it might be stopped altogether prayer on a piece of coarse Litbarua by a sudden fall of snow filling all the paper. In the latter, having placed a few passes : a circumstance not unusual at grains of Awa jau, he blessed it, and this season of the year. In answer to wrapping it round with an orange colourthis remark, it was observed, that we ed silk thread drawn out of an open stuff had been somewhat delayed by an illness with loose ends apparently for this purwhich attacked me soon after I left pose, he recommended us to hang it in Ghertope ; and that our cattle had been a particular direction, and we should find so reduced by continued marching and it in some respects useful to He scanty supply of food, as to be incapable caused some tea leaves in a mass to be of proceeding as quickly as we wished. brought to us, along with a small piece of That we were very solicitous to return to soda, which is in this country always emour homes, and should depart as soon as ployed to extract more of the colouring our cattle should be a little recruited, matter and favour of the tea than would and the Wazir and Déba would assist us be done by the water alone which is here by hiring of cattle to enable us to carry hard. A cheese made of meal and milk our wool to Nítí. This latter they pro- slightly daubed over with coarse sugar, mised to do without delay. I exchanged and having a few raisins stuck in it, with a knife with the Wazir for a curved horn a cake of a sweetmeat made of sugar and snuff box. After a sitting of two hours, butter, and a large plate of raisins, during which a plate of raisins was placed formed his present. The cheese had a before us, we took leave and made a very strong smell, and as well as the tea visit to the Lama. The old man was and sweetmeat was given to our servants. apparently much pleased to see us and The old man finding that we would not had tea prepared, of which, according to take back the cloth, requested that it our Hindu character, we could not par- might be given him the following day in take. Mr. H. brought as much orange the presence of the Gelums. The more cloth as would make him a dress, but we have seen of this priest the more we this he refused, saying the weight of the are pleased with the simplicity of his obligation would be too great, it being manners and the liberality of his sentiout of his power to make a suitable re ments, as far as the stupidity of our inturn for such civility. I found that a terpreter would give us to understand his knife and pair of scissars would be ac conversation. ceptable to him, and I sent for them. He In the evening we were desired again was most highly gratified by this token to visit the Wazir and Déba. They were of regard, and gave us some slips of engaged in writing to the Garpan ; and gauze sent to him by the Dcba Lama, we requested that a letter, in general along with some red comfits made of terms, informing him of our safe arrival, flour, water, and some red colouring mat and expressing our thanks for his atten. ter; they were insipid, but having been tions, might be transmitted to him in our made by the holy hands of the head of name ; which was done. It was promised, the church of this country, were said to that on the following morning some catpossess extraordinary virtues, provided tle should be brought, that wemight select they were eaten before any other thing two for our own riding, at the rate of in the morning. These properties lay in fifteen rupees nominal per lead, and that a very small space; for the comfits were
others should be furnished to carry our no bigger than partridge shot. Being wool and baggage. Two trays containing desirous of bringing a specimen of the rice with a lump of butter secured in a Unia writing, some of which had ap- piece of the skin of a yak with the hair peared to me very neat, I requested that on, were put before us as a present, along he would give me a written paper, as also with a plate of raisins; and a written one that had been printed. In compliance order, signed by the Wazir and Déba, for with my desire he gave me three slips of five goats was directed to be given to the blue paper, on which some prayers were steward, wlio would on receiving it im. written in letters of gold by a Gelum mediately forward the animals. Ther
mometer 55° in the evening. At night in a clean dress, of the name of Deb or the Wazir sent an agate snuff-box, in Debo Singh, came to pay his respects to exchange for that of horn. After I had us; he was son to a man of consequence the latter in my possession, I observed a of the name of Dhamu, who had ordered small ring of gold, by means of which him to come over, and whether we were the bottom was capable of being taken Mahants or not, to offer his services in out in order that the snuff may be put whatever we thought he might be useful. in, the mouth being too small for this If he thought us uot Munants, he was purpose. I could not help thinking, that directed to say that two thousand men the Wazir had overlooked this circum were ready to take arms for the cause of stance in the first instance, and now re the Rájá wlienever a rallying point was collecting it, thought he had maile a bad furnished. He said that, as our journey bargain. Under this impression, and had been long, and we had, he underresolving to defeat his avarice in this stood, been made to incur unnecessary matter, I pretended to misunderstand his expense, he should be happy to furnish a Inessage, and returned another knife with draft on Srinagar for a thousand rupees, a small silver capped glass salt muffineer if it would afford us any accommodation, that had been admired in the morning and would take the amount at Haridwar by him.
The agate hox was in the either in goods or money, as might be shape of an urn flattened at the sides, most agreeable to us. We thanked him and surmounted at each shoulder by the for the offer, which we declined, but mask of a Satyr. This appears to me an employed him in some little offices in antique of Grecian workmanship; or, if which he was serviceable. I sold tlie it should be of Tatar fabric, the hollow whole of the coral beads I had provided ing does credit to their ingenuity. The for ninety rupees to Amer Singh, who Wazir seemed pleased with his new bar- passed them over to Deb Singh for fifty gain.
shawl.wool goats and twenty sheep, to be August 24th.-Thermometer 399. This delivered to him at Niti, and to be morning we went to the lodging of a Lata- brought down to Chilkia by Harkh Deb. khi-Cashmirian merchant, who shewed This, though much under their value, us Russian leather and French woollen was the best return I could form, as, in cloth. The Latakhi said that the Rus. the event of accident to our first batch of sians had latterly imported much mer goats, the second might fill their place; chandize into this part of Tatary through and this precaution was the more necesYarkund, which is forty days journey sary, as all the persons we met with from Latakh and fifteen from Bokhara. said, that by far the greater part of these
At night the Wazir and the rest of his animals, if taken through the hills before council sent for the old pandit, and the the cold weather should have set in, brother of the Garpan said that they would die on the march. were anxious for our departure, lest some August 25th.—Thermometer 41°. The accident might occur to us, which would Wazır and Déba sent word that the yaks be a source of great uneasiness to them. would be ready to take our loads this That we had now passed through their morning; we returned an answer, that country once ; and as we were Firinghis, we should not be able to march until the we could not be allowed to come a second following morning, and that this would time. The pandit said that they well depend upon their performing their conknew he was conscious that they had it tract. A messenger returned with twelve not in their power to prevent our visiting rupees from the Wazir and Déba, instead the country whenever we pleased. That of a like number of goats which they had whether we should do so or not depended undertaken to supply, but now said they upon the orders of our superiors; but, if could not furnish ; and this was soon we should, our dealings would always be followed by those persons who said that governed by the same integrity which the people from Ghertope were extremely they had already witnessed, and which anxious to return, and expected we would they could not but approve. He then set off this morning, as they could not departed. This day a well looking Juari depart until we had begun our march. We
repeated our arguments and ordered our us till eight at night, in consequence of
much reduced by their long journey from people learnt our intention, and without
Ghertope to Mansurowar and back to waiting for our visit, saddled their hor. Dehu, they had performed their work of ses and went off. The Wazir and Déba yesterday but weakly, and it was theresent word privately, that if we would fore judged adviseable to halt, that they take saffron, they would in the evening might have a chance of filling their beltake some of our cloth. The Latákhi lies, although the pasturage was even saffron is received by the Latákhis from here but scanty. Deb Singh was very the Cashmirian traders in payment for anxious to receive a certificate of his the shawl-wool furnished by the latter; endeavours to be useful and a recommenand again given to the Unias in payment dation that he should be permitted to for the wool taken from them. It ap enter the Company's provinces paying pears to me pure, but dear; however the only the usual duties. The papers rehighness of price is in sonle measure quired by Deb Singh were given to him, owing to the form of the transaction
and he took his leave highly satisfied in being by barter. According to our pro- appearance. Much ice in the river this mise we went to the government house, morning. where we were received with a cordiality
August 28th.-Hard frost. In some calculated to efface the impression of the places the ice was 24 inches ihick. TherJate transactions, and which our conduct
mometer 28°. Marched at 9. At seven on the occasion shewed had produced that
thousand three hundred paces reach our effect. The Wazir and Déba said, that ground, and encamp at 12h 30'. Therreally there was much danger of our
mometer in the open air 67o. Found entering Hindustan being prevented alto
many ammonites in iron stone, generally getler, if our departure were delayed;
broken. Much iron in the mountains, that if they followed their own inclina
which have scarcely any vegetable upon tion, they could wish us to stay longer ;
them, and are rapidly frittering into fragbut the season was advanced, and it would
nients. We are now about one-third of much grieve both the Garpan and them
the Ghátí which separates Hindustan selves if any accident were to occur to
from Tatary. Mountains are less high
and bold than those farther on in Bútán. August 26th.-Thermometer 379. We Two yaks have been left behind from commenced our march from Dábá at ten fatigue, although the march has not been A. M. following the directions by whicla long, yet parts have been very distreswe arrived at first, in which line we con sing. The rivulet or rather river (for tinued, and crossing the Tiltil, reached when it fills its channel it well deserves the junction of the two streams before this name,) is called Chang-lu. It is mentioned at twelve, having come only formed by three or four branches, which about three miles. Here the measure issue from the heights below the Niti ment commenced as we took a new road. Gháti, and it disembogues itself into the At 2h 30' took up our ground for en Setlej. campment. Our baggage did not reach
(To be continued..