페이지 이미지
PDF
ePub

was entitled by birth, that he might the better ingratiate himself with all classes, and enjoy the more ready opportunities of observation. His liveliness, intelligence, and propriety of manners soon made him a general favourite, and he attained such a proficiency in the English language, as to be able latterly to act as an interpreter for his countrymen. He is thus shortly sketched by Capt. Hall, and his daily conduct, as related in every page of the book, at once shows the accuracy of the delineation, and serves to fill up the outline.

He is always cheerful, and often lively and playful, but his good sense prevents his ever going beyond the line of strict propriety. When required by etiquette to be grave, no one is so immoveably serious as Mádera, and when mirth rules the

hour, he is the gayest of the gay: such indeed is his taste on these occasions, that he not only catches the outward tone of his company, but really appears to think and feel as they do. His enterprising spirit and versatility of talent have led him to engage in a number of pursuits; his success, however, is the most remarkable in his acquisition of English.

66

The great interest which he took in the English, suggested the idea of taking him to England, and his reply to the proposition strongly pourtrayed the cast of his mind. go Injeree! father, mother, childs, wife, house, all cry! not go: no, no, all cry!" The softer virtues particularly flourished amongst this people. The desire of preventing distress was uppermost in their minds, and they always urged it as the most potent motive with others.*

Much was not seen of the interior of the country, but the scenery in the southern part of the island seemed to be rich and beautiful.

The most striking cir

It is remarkable that no arms of any kind were seen. The natives denied any knowledge of war, either by experience or tradition, and looked at the British cutlasses and the Malay creeses and spears with equal surprise. The limited extent of the island, and the ease with which it is governed from the mild character of the people, have prevented internal wars; and their distance from other nations, especially from the haunts

of the Malay pirates, has preserved their shores

from hosiile incursion,

cumstance was the air of neatness and comfort which appeared in the houses. They were generally shaded by trees and creepers, and so screened with foliage as to be invisible except from a very short distance. The north-eastern side was less cultivated, being in many parts occupied by forests.

During their stay it was determined to make a nautical survey of the whole island, and the Lyra was ordered on this service; she found the greater part of the shore enclosed by a belt of coral reefs, forming to strangers at least an impenetrable barrier, and greatly endangering any vessels which should attempt to make it. The hazard of navigating among coral they had already sufficiently experienced, the Lyra having been nearly wrecked on a circular reef of that substance, on her first apThe formaproach to the island. tion of coral is extremely curious. It is the produce and habitation of a small worm, which is concealed within the rock, when it is abandoned by the tide, and leaves it in the the form of a compact stone, so hard and rugged as to emit sparks like flint when struck, and in a short time entirely to deface the hammer. But as the tide rises, and the waves begin to wash over it, these animals protrude themselves from holes which were before invisible, and in such prodigious numbers, that the whole surface of the rock appears to be alive and in motion.

The growth of coral appears to cease when the worm is no longer exposed to the washing of the sea. Thus, a reef rises in the form of a cauliflower, till its top has gained the level of the highest tides, above which the worm has no power to advance, and the reef of course no longer extends itself upwards. The other parts in succession, reach the surface and there stop, forming in time a level field with steep sides all round. The reef however, continually increases, and being prevented from going higher, extends itgrowth being as rapid at the upper edge self laterally in all directions. But this

as it is lower down, the steepness of the face of the reef is still preserved. These are the circumstances which render coral reefs so dangerous in navigation; for, in the first place, they are seldom seen above the water; and, in the next, their sides are so steep, that a ship's bows may strike against the rock before any change of soundings has given warning of the danger.

That the danger is not exagge rated in this passage, is proved by the Lyra having been nearly wrecked on three occasions during this excursion; she owed her safety entirely to the prompt measures and steady management of Capt. Hall.

In the northern part of the island they found a secure and capacious harbour, which is thus beautifully described:

We entered the harbour in the main island, by an intricate passage of about a quarter of a mile in length, and at one place not two hundred yards wide. Here we found ourselves in a circular bason upwards of half a mile across, with deep water, and completely sheltered from all winds. On its western shore we saw a large and beautiful village almost hid amongst trees, with a wooded range behind it stretching to the south. The eastern shore was low and laid out in salt fields, with a few huts here and there. At first sight this bason did not appear to have any outlet except by the one we had examined; but on rowing to its upper or southern side, we found that it joined by

a narrow channel with another harbour still larger, and if possible more beautiful than the first, for here the land was high on both sides, and richly wooded from top to bottom. Proceeding onwards through this bason, which had all the appearance of an inland lake, we came to another outlet, not above a hundred yards wide, formed by cliffs rising abruptly out of the water to the height of a hundred feet. Both sides being covered with trees, which almost met overhead, the space below was rendered cool and pleasant, and the water, thus sheltered from every wind, was as smooth as glass. We rowed along for some time by various windings through this fairy scene in total uncertainty of what was to come next, and at last, after advancing about three miles, it opened into an extensive lake several miles in length, studded with numerous small islands.

The depth of water in the lake varied from four to six fathoms; but in the narrow neck which connects it with the sea the depth is from ten to twenty fathoms,

At

being deepest at the narrowest parts. Ships might ride in any part of this extraordinary harbour, in perfect safety during the most violent tempests: and the shores are so varied, that every purpose of re-equipment might be served. some places natural wharfs are formed by the rocks, and eight and ten fathoms water close to them. Ships might lie alongby them: there are also shallow spots on side these places, or might heave down which ships might be careened. Many of the cliffs are hollowed into caves, which would answer for storehouses; and in the numerous lawns on both sides, encampments might be formed of any number of people.

The parties afterwards visited some villages on the beach. The inhabitants were friendly and hospitable; they betrayed little either of fear or curiosity, and made no attempts to limit their walk, or to prevent them from examining any objects which attracted their notice. The village of Oonting, on the banks of the lower harbour, was by far the most finished of any that they had seen on the island: the streets were regular and clean swept; and each house had a neat cane wall and a screen of plantain and other trees, which effectually shaded it from view. In front of the village and parallel with the beach, was a splendid avenue thirty feet wide, formed by two rows of large trees, whose branches joined overhead, which effectually screened the walk from the sun. In an overhanging cliff to the northward of the town a long horizontal gallery had been hewn out of the solid rock, for the reception of the vases containing the bones of the dead.

The trees and creepers on the edge of the precipice hung down so as to meet the tops of those which grew below, and thus a screen was formed which threw the gallery into deep shade: every thing here being perfectly still, the scene was very solemn and imposing. It took us somewhat by surprise, for nothing in its external appearance indicated the purpose to which the place was appropriated: happening to discover an opening amongst the trees and brushwood, and resolving to see what it led to, we entered by a narrow path winding through the grove. The

liveliness of the scenery without, and the various amusements of the day, had put us all into high spirits, but the unexpect ed and sacred gloom of the scene in which we suddenly found ourselves had an instantaneous effect in repressing the mirth of the whole party.

The practice of this people in regard to the burial of their dead is remarkable. The bodies are put into coffins and allowed to lie untouched for seven years, by which time the flesh is entirely consumed; the bones are then collected and put into vases, which are preserved from age to age, either in hollow places in the rocks or in houses appropriated to their reception. The practice is admirably calculated to preserve the respect for the dead, and to reconcile it with that disgust which is naturally felt at the sight of decay and corruption.

On leaving the harbour, the brig narrowly escaped being wrecked. In attempting to tack, she came round again against their will, and before the sails could be properly trimmed, had gone stern foremost almost to the very verge of a reef, on which the sea was breaking to a great height. A few days afterwards she was exposed to a similar danger in attempting to examine a deeply indented bay on the Eastern side of the island. They ran in under low sail with the usual precautions, notwithstanding which they were very nearly on the reefs, for the water shoaled suddenly from twentyfour to eight fathoms, and although the brig was instantly tacked, the soundings as she came round were only five fathoms, and the ragged tops of a rock just level with the surface were discovered at the distance of only fifty yards. The whole of the southern part of the island is thickly studded with rocks of coral, and should not be approached by a ship without great caution.

Soon after the Lyra returned from this tour, it became necessary to leave the island: the separation,

[ocr errors]

there is reason to believe was a subject on both sides of the most heart-felt distress. The chiefs who had officially attended them were quite out of spirits, and saw the preparations for departure with looks of real regret. "The chil"dren too were all much affected, "and the wonted hilarity of the "lower orders was gone. Mádera was inconsolable. He had formed an intimate friendship with several of the officers, and the pain of separation was increased by the consideration, that he should lose for ever the opportunity of acquiring that scientific and general knowledge for which he thirsted. He endeavoured in vain to conceal his emotions, and the parting was most affecting on both sides.

On the 2d of November, the ships cast anchor at the island of Lintin, after having sustained a severe gale in the straights of Formosa, which rendered repairs necessary to both vessels. The harbour of Macao was not capable of receiving the frigate, and Captain Maxwell applied for a pass to proceed up the river. This was refused by the Chinese in an insolent manner; but after much prevarication, they admitted “that if a

pass was not sent within a certain "time, he was to take it for grant"ed that leave was given." Sundry other vexatious and insulting measures were resorted to, which were not to be endured by a British frigate, and Captain Maxwell thought it by no means allowable, that the Lion should have been admitted to a place of greater safety than the Alceste, when the Emperor had expressed his pleasure that the reception should be the same. He did not suffer any apprehension of personal danger to the Embassador, who was yet on the journey, much less his private friendship for Lord Amherst, to stand in competition with the maintenance of the honour of his country; and he took the only resolution worthy of himself, which

was to proceed to Wampoa, in spite of the opposition of the Chinese.

The Bocca Tigris, or mouth of the principal branch of the river, was strongly fortified. The works had been lately repaired, and there were three forts mounting altogether a hundred and ten pieces of cannon, capable of keeping up a cross fire, as they were within half gun-shot of each other, and garrisoned at this time by about 1,200 men. Seventeen or eighteen war junks had also been collected, each carrying six guns on an average and from sixty to eighty men. It is difficult to conceive what additional force could have been assembled by the Viceroy of Canton; the event cannot be better described than in Mr. Macleod's own words.

About this time (five o'clock) the same loquacious linguist before-mentioned came on board from the Mandarins, and desired, in a high and domineering tone, that the ship should be directly anchored; and stating that, if we presumed to pass up the river, the batteries would instantly sink her; availing himself, at the same time, of that favourable opportunity to express his personal sense of low consideration for us, and plainly telling the captain he thought him very imper. tinent. The latter calmly observed, that he would first pass the batteries, and then hang him at the yard-arm, for daring to bring on board a British man of war so impudent a message: his boat was then cut adrift, and himself taken into custody. The junks now commenced firing blank cartridge, which we returned with three guns from the ship, affecting to consider this as a mere salute. On the next tack we passed close to these warriors, who remained quiet until we got inside of them, and opened Chumpee; when that fort, little Annan-hoy, and the junks (now under weigh) began to fire at us with shot. At this moment the wind becoming light and baffling, we were obliged to drop anchor in Anson's bay, in order to hold the ground we had gained, and that they might not suppose they had driven us back; and in the act of wearing for this purpose, we gave the admiral of the junks a single shot only, by way of a hint.*

The forts imme

This first shot was fired by the captain's own hand, that, in the event of the Chinese demanding those who fired, instead of those who order

diately ceased firing; and their junks
anchoring near us, all remained quiet
until a little after eight o'clock, when a
light breeze sprung up, which enabled us
to lay our course, and the anchor was
again weighed. The moment this was ob-
served by the junks, they beat their gongs,
fired guns, and threw up sky-rockets to
give the alarm, and in an instant the bat-
teries were completely illuminated, dis-
playing lanterns as large as moderate-sized
balloons, (the finest mark imaginable for
us), commencing also a warm, but ill-
Steering
directed fire, from both sides.
a steady course, the ship returned a slow
and regular fire, as the guns could be got
to bear, without yawing her.

From the lightness of the breeze, which the cannonade seemed to lessen, it was a considerable time before we got abreast of the largest battery. At last, when within pistol-shot of the angle of it, and just before they could get all their guns to bear into the ship, a whole broadside, with cool aim, was poured in among them, the two and thirty pounders rattling the stones about their ears in fine style, and giving them at the same time three roaring cheers.

This salvo was decisive at this particular point; their lights disappeared in a twinkling, and they were completely silenced; but from the island opposite they still continued their fire, the balls which passed over and around us striking New Annanhoy, which had thereby the full benefit of their own as well as our shot.

Soon after this, our point was gained; and, standing up the river, we displayed our stern to these gentlemen. It is somewhat extraordinary that it should have been gained so easily; for, notwithstanding we were nearly an hour wrangling in this narrow passage, not a man (on our side) was killed, the ship only hulled twice, and some trifling damage done to the rigging. Almost any Europeans gunners, with the same advantages, would have blown the frigate out of the water. During this affair, the flashing of the guns on the glassy surface of the river, and the rolling echo of their reports along the adjoining hills, had a very grand and animating effect, and reminded our people of other days. The Chinese linguist, who had crawled below when he saw matters taking a serious turn, and having observed there was no joking in the case, began in real earnest to think, as one part of the promise had been fulfilled, that his time had now arrived. Coming trembling upon deck, he prostrated himself, and kissing the captain's feet, begged At that moment, hearing the

for mercy.

ed, or of seizing upon any innocent person, he might fully place himself in the situation of being individually responsible for all consequences.

66

order given to "staud by the larboard guns for Tiger Island," (on which we then supposed there was a battery), he said, with a rueful countenance, "What! no hab done yet ?"--" Not half done,” was the reply. "How many guns have 66 you got on Tiger Island ?"-but, with out waiting to answer this question, (or indeed reflecting in this perturbation that there were none at all), he wrung

his hands, groaned heavily, and dived

again below.

The discipline they had received was not lost on the Chinese. The General Hewitt had been forbidden to load on frivolous pretences, and had been detained for six weeks at the second bar; but no sooner did the intelligence of the affair with the forts reach Canton, than tea-junks were sent with part of the cargo, and permission was given her to load immediately. The Viceroy also sent down a high Mandarin, to welcome Captain Maxwell to the river, and compliment him with all possible politeness: so that the spirited conduct of the latter not only commanded as bril"liant an entry for the embassy, as ever had been witnessed on any other occasion, but, what was of equal importance, it "sustained the dignity of the "flag, and reduced the Viceroy "(after offering every insult,) to "the meanness of congratulating "those who had defied his flo"tilla, and battered his fortifica

[ocr errors]
[ocr errors]
[ocr errors]

❝tions." **The behaviour of Captain Maxwell and Lord Amherst was in many other respects successfully directed to the repression of the insolence of the Viceroy and people of Canton.

On the 29th of January, the Embassy took leave of China in the Alceste frigate, and after touching at Manilla, steered for the straights of Gaspar. Here, while following the best and safest course, and using every precaution which could guard against danger, the ship suddenly struck on a reef

It is remarkable that Mr. Ellis had not said one word on the passage, of the forts by the Alceste.

[ocr errors]
[ocr errors]

of sunken rocks and remained immoveable.

It was soon discovered that the injury she had sustained was irremediable, and that any attempt to move her must have been attended with fatal consequences. The anchor was accordingly let go, and preparations were made for removing the men and all the stores that could be saved to the neighbouring island of Pulo Leat. The boats were hoisted out, and the Embassador and suite, with all whose labour was not required on the wreck, were sent on shore; while the captain and officers used every exertion to secure what provisions could be obtained from under the water, which now filled the vessel. The boats found great difficulty in effecting a landing; for though at a distance the shore appeared easy of access, it was found on close inspection that the mangrove trees grow out to a considerable distance in the water, and formed an impenetrable barrier. At length a small opening appeared, and by cutting away a quantity of jungle at the foot of a hill, a space was cleared, where they bivouacked under the shade of the loftier trees.

In the mean time the work on progress.

board the ship made slow During the first day no fresh water pened to be on deck in the dripwas obtained, except what happing-stones and water jugs. The party on the island were equally dug, from the vicinity of the sea, unsuccessful the pits which they containing only salt water. small quantity was served out to Lord Amherst setting the examevery man without distinction, ple of that readiness to share in privations, which never fails to animate the lower classes to endurance and to unite them in sub

ordination to their officers.

A

On the second day Captain Maxwell determined that the Embassador and his suite should pro

« 이전계속 »