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Or will the gentle Dilettanti crew
Now delegate the task to digging Gell,
That mighty lininer of a birds'.ere vicw,
How like to Nature let his voltoes tell:
Who can with him the folio's limits sweil
With all the Author saw, or said he saw ?
Who can topographize or delve so well?

No boaster he, nor impudent and raw,
His pencil, pen, and shade, alike without a finw."]

king was nearly as mischievous as the Scottish peer. - See Chandler.

? To prevent blocks or splinters from íalling on deck during action.

(" From Discipline's stern law," &c. - MS.] * [“ Plies the brisk instrument that sailors jove." - MS.) 5 [" Bleeds the lone heart, once boundless in its zeal, And friendless now, yet dreams it had a friend."

MS.] (" Ah! happy rears ! I would I were once more & boy."

-MS.]

1 According to Zosimus, Minerva and Achilles frightened Alaric from the Acropolis ; but others relate that the Gothic

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XXIV. Thus bending o'er the vessel's laving side, To gaze on Dian's wave-reflected sphere, The soul forgets her schemes of hope and pride, And flies unconscious o'er each backward year. None are so desolate but something dear, Dearer than self, possesses or possess'd A thought, and claims the homage of a tear;

A flashing pang! of which the weary breast Would still, albeit in vain, the heavy heart divest.

XXIX. But not in silence pass Calypso's isles, 2 The sister tenants of the middle deep; There for the weary still a haven smiles, Though the fair goddess long hath ceased to weep, And o'er her cliff's a fruitless watch to keep For him who dared prefer a mortal bride : Here, too, his boy essay'd the dreadful leap

Stern Mentor urged from high to yonder tide; While thus of both bereft, the nymph-queen doubly sighed.

XXX. Her reign is past, her gentle glories gone: But trust not this: too easy youth, beware! A mortal sovereign holds her dangerous throne, And thou may'st find a new Calypso there. Sweet Florence ! could another ever share This wayward, loveless heart, it would be thine: But check'd by every tie, I may not dare

To cast a worthless offering at thy shrine, Nor ask so dear a breast to feel one pang for mine.

XXV. To sit on rocks, to muse o'er flood and fell, To slowly trace the forest's shady scene, Where things that own not man's dominion dwell, And mortal foot hath ne'er or rarely been; To climb the trackless mountain all unseen, With the wild flock that never needs a fold; Alone o'er steeps and foaming falls to lean ;

This is not solitude ; 't is but to hold (unroll’d. Converse with Nature's charms, and view her stores

XXVI. But 'midst the crowd, the hum, the shock of men, To hear, to see, to feel, and to possess, And roam along, the world's tired denizen, With none who bless us, none whom we can bless; Minions of splendour shrinking from distress ! None that, with kindred consciousness endued, If we were not, would seem to smile the less,

Of all that flatter'd, follow'd, sought, and sued; This is to be alone; this, this is solitude !

XXXI. Thus Harold deem'd, as on that lady's eye He look'd, and met its beam without a thought Save Admiration glancing harmless by : Love kept aloof, albeit not far remote, Who knew his votary often lost and caught, But knew him as his worshipper no more, And ne'er again the boy his bosom sought:

Since now he vainly urged him to adore, Well deem'd the little God his ancient sway was o'er.

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XXXII. Fair Florence found, in sooth with some amaze, One who, 't was said, still sigh'd to all he saw, Withstand, unmoved, the lustre of her gaze, Which others hail'd with real or mimic awe, '[law; Their hope, their doom, their punishment, their All that gay Beauty from her bondsmen claims: And much she marvell'd that a youth so raw

Nor felt, nor feign'd at least, the oft-told flames, Which, though sometimes they frown, yet rarely anger dames.

XXXIII.
Little knew she that seeming marble heart,
Now mask'd in silence or withheld by pride,
Was not unskilful in the spoiler's art, 4
And spread its snares licentious far and wide ;
Nor from the base pursuit had turn'd aside,
As long as aught was worthy to pursue :
But Harold on such arts no more relied ;

And had he doted on those eyes so blue,
Yet neder would be join the lover's whining crew.

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XXVIII. Pass ve the long, unvarying course, the track Oft trod, that never leaves a trace behind; Pass we the calm, the gale, the change, the tack, And each well-known caprice of wave and wind; Pass we the joys and sorrows sailors find, Coop'd in their winged sea-girt citadel; The foul, the fair, the contrary, the kind,

As breezes rise and fall and billows swell, Till on some jocund morn- lo, land ! and all is well.

: (One of Lord Byron's chief delights was, as he himself states in one of his journals, after bathing in some retired spot to seat himself on a high rock above the sea, and there

on for hours, gazing upon the sky and the waters. " He lei che life," says Sir Egerton Brydges, “as he wrote the Srains, of a true poet. He could sleep, and very frequently 1 sleep, wrapped up in his rough great coat, on the hard boards of a deck, while the winds and the waves were roaring round him on every side, ana could subsist on a crust and a glass of water. It would be difficult to persuade me, that he moo is a concomb in his manners, and artificial in his habits of life, could write good poetry.")

1 Goza is said to have been the island of Calypso.--[“ The identity of the habitation assigned by poets to the nymph Caspio, has occasioned much discussion and variety of opinin. Some place it at Malta, and some at Goza." Hoare's Classical Tour.)

3 (For an account of this accomplished but eccentric lady,

whose acquaintance the poet formed at Malta, see Miscellaneous Poems, September, 1809, “ To Florence," “In one so imaginative as Lord Byron, who, while he infused so much of his life into his poetry, mingled also not a little of poetry with his life, it is difficult," says Moore, “in unravelling the texture of his feelings, to distinguish at all times between the fanciful and the real. His description here, for instance, of the unmoved and loveless heart, with which he contemplated even the charms of this attractive person, is wholly at variance with the statements in many of his letters; and, above all, with one of the most graceful of his lesser poems, addressed to this same lady, during a thunder-storm on his road to Zitza."]

4 [Against this line it is sufficient to set the poet's own declaration, in 1821: -" I am not a Joseph, nor a Scipio, but I can safely affirm, that I never in my life seduced any woman.") 5 [“ We have here another instance of his propensity to

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self-misrepresentation. However great might hare been the irregularities of his college life, such phrases as 'the spoiler's art,' and spreading snares,' were in no wise applicable to them."- Moore.]

[“ Brisk Impudence," &c. – MS.] ? See Appendix to this Canto, Note [B]. 3 Ithaca.

(“ Sept. 24th," says Mr. Hobhouse, “we were in the channel, with Ithaca, then in the hands of the French, to the west of us. We were close to it, and saw a few shrubs on a brown heathy land, two little towns in the hills, scat. tered amongst trees, and a windmill or two, with a tower on the heights. That Ithaca was not very strongly garrisoned, you will easily believe, when I tell, that a month afterwards, when the lonlan Islands were invested by a British squadron, it was surrendered into the hands of a sergeant and seven

men." For a very curious account of the state of the kingdom of Ulysses in 1816, see Williams's Travels, vol. ii. p. 427.]

* Leucadia, now Santa Maura. From the promontory (the Lover's Leap) Sappho is said to have thrown herseli. (“ Sept. 28th, we doubled the promontory of Santa Maura. and saw the precipice which the fate of Sappho, the poetry of Ovid, and the rocks so formidable to the ancient mariners, have made for ever memorable." - HOBHOUSE.]

5 Actium and Trafalgar need no further mention. The battle of Lepanto, equally bloody and considerable, but less known, was fought in the Gulf of Patras. Here the author of Don Quixote lost his left hand. 6 (" And roused him more from thought than he was wont, While Pleasure almost seemed to smooth his placid

front." MS.]

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LI.

Dusky and huge, enlarging on the sight,
Nature's volcanic amphitheatre, 8-
Chimæra's alps extend from left to right:
Beneath, a living valley seems to stir ; (fir
Flocks play, trees wave, streams flow, the mountairi-
Nodding above; behold black Acheron ! 9
Once consecrated to the sepulchre.

Pluto ! if this be hell I look upon, (none. 10 Close shamed Elysium's gates, my shade shall seek for

XLVII. He pass d bleak Pindus, Acherusia's lake, 3 And left the primal city of the land, And onwards did his further journey take To greet Albania's chief 4, whose dread cominand Is lawless law; for with a bloody band He sways a nation, turbulent and bold; Yet here and there some daring mountain-band

Disdain his power, and from their rocky hold Hurl their defiance far, nor yield, unless to gold. 5

! It is said, that, on the day previous to the battle of Actium, Antony had thirteen kings at his levee. - (" Todar" (Nov. 12.), “ I saw the remains of the town of Actium, sear which Antony lost the world, in a small bay, where two frigates could hardly manœuvre: a broken wall is the sole remanant. On another part of the gulf stand the ruins of Ficopolis, built by Augustus, in honour of his victory." – Lord Byron to his Mother, 1809.) * Nicopolis, whose ruins are most extensive, is at some distance from Actium, where the wall of the Hippodrome survives in a few fragments. These ruins are large masses of brickwork, the bricks of which are joined by interstices of mortar, as large as the bricks themselves, and equally

* According to Pouqueville, the lake of Yanina : but Pou. freville is always out.

• The celebrated Ali Pacha. Of this extraordinary man there is an incorrect account in Pouqueville's Travels. - ["I left Malta in the Spider brig-of-war, on the 21st of September, and arrived in eight days at Prevesa. I thence have traversed the interior of the province of Albania, on a visit to the Pacha, as far as Tepaleen, his highness's country palace, where I stayed three days. The name of the Pacha is Ali, and he is considered a man of the first abilities : he governs the whole of Albania (the ancient Illyricum), Epirus, and part of Macedonia." - B. to his mother.]

Five thousand Suliotes, arnong the rocks and in the castle of Suli, withstood thirty thousand Albanians for eighteen years, the castle at last was taken by bribery. In this contest there were several acts performed not unworthy of the better days of Greece

The crarent and village of Zitza are four hours' journey

darable.

from Joannina, or Yanina, the capital of the Pachalick. In the valley the river Kalamas (once the Acheron) flows, and, not far from Zitza, forms a fine cataract. The situation is per. haps the finest in Greece, though the approach to Delvinachi and parts of Acarnania and Etolia may contest the palm. Delphi, Parnassus, and, in Attica, even Cape Colonna and Port Raphti, are very inferior; as also every scene in Ionia, or the Troad: I am almost inclined to add the approach to Constantinople; but, from the different features of the last, a comparison can hardly be made. (" Zitza," says the poet's companion, " is a village inhabited by Greek peasants. Perhaps there is not in the world a more romantic prospect than that which is viewed from the summit of the hill. The foreground is a gentle declivity, terminating on every side in an extensive landscape of green hills and dale, enriched with vineyards, and dotted with frequent flocks."]

· The Greek monks are so called. -(" We went into the monastery," says Mr. Hobhouse, "after some parley with one of the monks, through a small door plated with iron, on which the marks of violence were very apparent, and which, before the country had been tranquillised under the powerful government of Ali, had been battered in vain by the troops of robbers then, by turns, infesting every district. The prior, a humble, mcek-mannered man, entertained us in a warm chamber with grapes, and a pleasant white wine, not trodden out, as he told us, by the feet, but pressed from the grape by the hand; and we were so well pleased with every thing about us, that we agreed to lodge with him on our return from the Vizier.")

8 The Chimariot mountains appear to have been volcanic. 9 Now called Kalamas. 10 [“ Keep heaven for better souls, my shade," &c. - M3.]

Amidst no common pomp the despot sate,
While busy preparation shook the court,
Slaves, eunuchs, soldiers, guests, and santons wait;

Within, a palace, and without, a fort:
Here men of every clime appear to make resort.

LII. Ne city's towers pollute the lovely view; Unseen is Yanina, though not remote, Veil'd by the screen of hills : here men are few, Scanty the hamlet, rare the lonely cot : But, peering down each precipice, the goat Browseth ; and, pensive o'er his scatter'd flock, The little shepherd in his white capote 1

Doth lean his boyish form along the rock, Or in his cave awaits the tempest's short-lived shock.

LVII. Richly caparison'd, a ready row Of armed horse, and many a warlike store, Circled the wide-extending court below; Above, strange groups adornd the corridore; And oft-times through the area's echoing door, Some high-capp'd Tartar spurr'd his steed away : The Turk, the Greek, the Albanian, and the Moor,

Here mingled in their many-hued array, (of day While the deep war-drum's sound announced the close

LVIII. The wild Albanian kirtled to his knee, With shawl-girt head and ornamented gun, And gold-embroider'd garments, fair to see; The crimson-scarfed men of Macedon; The Delhi with his cap of terror on, And cruuked glaive; the lively, supple Greek; And swarthy Nubia's mutilated son ;

The bearded Turk, that rarely deigns to speak, Master of all around, too potent to be meek,

LIII. Oh ! where, Dodona ! is thine aged grove, Prophetic fount, and oracle divine ? What valley echoed the response of Jove ? What trace remaineth of the Thunderer's shrine? All, all forgotten — and shall man repine That his frail bonds to fleeting life are broke ? Cease, fool! the fate of gods may well be thine :

Wouldst thou survive the marble or the oak ? When nations, tongues, and worlds must sink beneath the stroke !

LIV. Epirus' bounds recede, and mountains fail ; Tired of up-gazing still, the wearied eye Reposes gladly on as smooth a vale As ever Spring yclad in grassy dye : Ev'n on a plain no humble beauties lie, Where some bold river breaks the long expanse, And woods along the banks are waving higli,

Whose shadows in the glassy waters dance, Or with the moonbeam sieep in midnight's solemn trance.

LV. The sun had sunk behind vast Tomerit, 2 And Laos wide and fierce came roaring by ; 3 The shades of wonted night were gathering yet, When, down the steep banks winding warily, Childe Harold saw, like meteors in the sky, The glittering minarets of Tepalen, Whose walls o'erlook the stream; and drawing nigh, He heard the busy hum of warrior-men

(glen. + Swelling the breeze that sigh'd along the lengthening

LIX. Are mix'd conspicuous : some recline in groups, Scanning the motley scene that varies round; There some grave Moslem to devotion stoops, And some that smoke, and some that play, are found; Here the Albanian proudly treads the ground; Half-whispering there the Greek is heard to prate ; Hark! from the mosque the nightly solemn sound,

The Muezzin's call doth shake the minaret, “ There is no god but God! - to prayer - lo! God

is great !" 5

LVI. He pass'd the sacred Haram's silent tower, And underneath the wide o'erarching gate Survey'd the dwelling of this chief of power, Where all around proclaim'd his high estate.

LX. Just at this season Ramazani's fast 6 Through the long day its penance did maintain : But when the lingering twilight hour was past, Revel and feast assumed the rule again: Now all was bustle, and the menial train Prepared and spread the plenteous board within ; The vacant gallery now seem'd made in vain,

But from the chambers came the mingling din, As page and slave anon were passing out and in.

1 Albanese cloak,
? Anciently Mount Tomarus.

3 The river Laos was full at the time the author passed it; and, immediately above Tepaleen, was to the eye as wide as the Thames at Westminster ; at least in the opinion of the author and his fellow-traveller. In the summer it must be much narrower. It certainly is the finest river in the Levant; neither Achelous, Alpheus, Acheron, Scamander, nor Cayster, approached it in breadth or beauty.

"[" Ali Pacha, hearing that an Englishman of rank was in his dominions, left orders, in Yanina, with the commandant, to provide a house, and supply me with every kind of neces. sary gratis, I rode out on the vizier's horses, and saw the palaces of himself and grandsons. I shall never forget the singular scene on entering Tepaleen, at five in the alternoon (Oct. 11.), as the sun was going down. It brought to my mind (with some change of dress, however,) Scott's description of Branksome Castle in his Lay, and the feudal system. The Albanians in their dresses (the most magnificent in the world, consisting of a long white kilt, gold-worked cloak, crimson velvet gold-laced jacket and waistcoat, silver-mounted pistols and daggers); the Tartars, with their high caps ; the Turks in their vast pelisses and turbans; the soldiers and black slaves with the horses, the former in groups, in an immesse

Targe open gallery in front of the palace, the latter placed in a kind of cloister below it; two hundred steeds ready capa. risoned to move in a moment; couriers entering or passing out with despatches; the kettle-drums beating ; boys calling the hour from the minaret of the mosque ; - altogether, with the singular appearance of the building itself, formed a new and delightful spectacle to a stranger.

I was conducted to a very handsome apartment, and my health inquired after by the vizier's secretary,'à la mode Turque.'” B. Letters.]

$(" On our arrival at Tepaleen, we were lodged in the palace. During the night, we were disturbed by the perpetual carousal which seemed to be kept up in the gallery, and by the drum, and the voice of the Muezzin,' or chanter, calling the Turks to prayers from the minaret or the mosck attached to the palace. The chanter was a boy, and he sang out his hymn in a sort of loud melancholy recitative. He was a long time repeating the purport of these few words : God most high ! " I bear witness, that there is no god but God, and Mahomet is his prophet: come to prayer ; come to the asylum of salvation; great God! there is no god but God!

- HOBHOUSE.] 6 [“ We were a little unfortunate in the time we chose for travelling, for it was during the Ramazan, or Turkish Lent, which fell this year in October, and was hailed at the rising

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