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VOL. V.

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UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE COMMITTEE OF GENERAL LITERATURE AND EDUCATION APPOINTED BY THE SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE.

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151

VIEW OF TENBY

PEMBROKESHIRE SOUTH WALES.

TENBY, SOUTH WALES.

On the western coast of the extensive bay of Carmarthen, very singularly situated on the eastern and southern sides of a narrow rocky peninsula, surrounded by the sea on every side, except the north, stands the town of Tenby, one of the most interesting and romantic of British "watering places."

From its Welsh name, Dynbych y Pyscod, that is, the Precipice of Fishes, and other circumstances, there is reason to believe that Tenby acquired considerable importance, at a very early period, as a fishing-station, for which it is still admirably adapted. Some writers have ascribed the origin of the present town to the settlement of a colony of Flemings in this and the opposite peninsula of Gower in Glamorganshire, early in the twelfth century *. These people, whose industrious habits, language, and manners, presented a striking contrast to the restless dispositions of the native inhabitants, were placed by the King (Henry I.) under the control of Gerald de Windsor, Governor of Pembroke Castle, by whose direction they fortified Tenby, and other towns and strong-holds in Pembrokeshire, as a means of security against the incursions of the partly-subdued Welsh. In consequence of the strength and importance of the situation, more than ordinary care seems to have been bestowed in fortifying Tenby, which was enclosed by walls of great height and strength, and further defended by a castle, of whose ponderous and crumbling ruins we shall presently have occasion to speak. The town and castle, however, underwent several serious changes in the middle ages, and were once burnt and almost wholly destroyed by the sons of Rhys ap Griffith, Prince of South Wales.

During the Civil War Tenby and its castle were more than once taken and re-taken by the rebels and royalists. In 1647, when Cromwell marched into South Wales, it was in the hands of the Cavaliers, who defended it with great resolution and gallantry, against a large detachment of Cromwell's army, for more than five days, The importance attached by Cromwell to the possession of this place affords strong evidence of its consequence as a military post, at that period.

The woollen manufacture was introduced and carried on for many years in Tenby, by the Flemings and their successors; on its decline, the inhabitants were chiefly supported by fisheries, from which the town first derived its importance. Various privileges and immunities were granted to it, under successive governments, with a view of fostering a commercial spirit; but, notwithstanding, Tenby seems to have languished until towards the close of the last century, when the extreme beauty of the situation, the mildness and salubrity of the air, and the great advantages which its fine hard sand offered for sea-bathing, attracted the attention of invalids and loungers, and have elevated it from an obscure sea-port, into a flourishing and considerable town, the permanent residence of many individuals of opulence, and the periodical resort of the frequenters of fashionable as well as of retired "watering-places."

Of the romantic appearance of this town from seaward, of the singular perpendicularity of its site, and the intermixture of houses, rocks, and foliage,with the lofty spire of its church, and the scattered ruins of its aged castle, the annexed view affords some idea. The Flemings, who had, in 1108, been driven from the Low Countries by a disastrous encroachment of the sea, first landed on the southern coast of England; but proving troublesome, they were compelled to emigrate to South Wales, where many of their descendants, especially in the wild district of Gower, still preserve to a great extent the manners and customs of the early colonists. They are even now essentially distinct from the native Welsh, and use many Flemish words.

Tenby is chiefly composed of one principal street and various smaller ones, several of which are steep and narrow, branching from it on the hill side;many new and handsome houses have however been built in what may be termed the suburbs, within the last few years, commanding a magnificent and varied marine view. The town is generally well built, and the antiquary may note many very interesting exarples of domestic architecture, of a very early date, several of which are of Flemish origin.

Amongst the improvements which the corporation has effected within a few years, may be mentioned the erection of a new and commodious market-house, and the alteration of one of the principal entrances into the town, which was inconveniently steep and narrow. Tenby possesses many excellent hotels and lodginghouses; a reading room, subscription library, a theatre, and baths, on an extensive scale.

The sands are dry and extensive, and are rendered interesting, not only by the beauty and grandeur of the surrounding scenery, but by the great variety of shells with which they are studded. The coast of Pembrokeshire, indeed, offers a wide field for the conchologist, "not less," we are told, "than one half of the British collection of 600 varieties of shells," being found on it, besides various others usually met with only on foreign shores.

The harbour is small, though well sheltered. The shipping lie within an ancient but well-constructed pier, of irregular form, at the foot of the castle-hill, which curves at its extremity, and being closed with floodgates, acts at low water as a scouring dock, by which means the harbour is cleansed every other tide. The chief trade of the neighbourhood (the export of coals, culm, and limestone,) is carried on at a place called Saunder's Foot, or Sandisfoot, about three miles to the north of Tenby, where a pier has lately been erected; which, together with the introduction of tramways from the coal-pits, has proved of material consequence to the prosperity of the district.

Near the extremity of Tenby pier, is a small chapel of high antiquity, formerly dedicated to St. Julian, and said to have been appropriated to devotional purposes, in the olden time, by sailors before going to sea. This aged little building is even now sometimes used as a chapel.

In stormy weather the harbour affords a safe refuge to the numerous craft frequenting Carmarthen bay, which abounds with every description of fish found on the British coasts, and is in some respects perhaps the finest fishing-station in the kingdom. The markets at Tenby are well supplied, and the prices of provisions extremely reasonable. The population of this place, including the parish of Weston, according to the last census was 2687. In conjunction with Pembroke and Milford, it returns one member to Parliament; one portion, or district, termed the out liberties, is not subject to the jurisdiction of the mayor and magistrates, but to that of the magistrates of the

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In the church-yard is a small but elegant arch, built about the time of Henry the Seventh, and still bearing two shields, containing his arms as Earl of Richmond and King of England. It is remarkable that this and many other ancient arches in Tenby, are built so low, as scarcely to admit any person without stooping, although there is no appearance of the earth accumulating at their foundations.

The picturesque beauty of this delightful place is much enhanced by the ruins of the Castle, which was once of great strength and magnificence, and embraced within its fortifications the whole of the upper surface of the peninsulated rock, which terminates the bay of Tenby on the south. Many parts of the existing remains, which are still extensive, resemble a baronial mansion rather than a place of defence; but the external fortifications are extremely strong and massive. On the summit of the hill are the shattered ruins of the Keep, which may be assigned to an earlier date than any other portion of the structure. The remains of a magnificent hall, one hundred feet in length,—of a room scarcely inferior in its dimen3ions,-of a square tower, a bastion, and lofty arched entrance, are still tolerably perfect. The view from this wild and elevated spot is of high interest. The bold and majestic outline of the adjacent coast of Pembroke, with its dark headlands and receding inlets; the wide expanse of Carmarthen bay, and the more distant waters of the channel, terminated by Lundy Island and the lofty scenery of North Devon; the shores of Carmarthen and Glamorgan, and the very singular rocky promontory of the Wormshead on the opposite coast of Gower; together with the wild and romantic group of insulated rocks, almost immediately below the eye of the spectator, amongst which the islands of Caldy* and St. Katherine's, stand boldly out, compose a scene, which, for extent and variety, has few equals.

The country adjacent to Tenby is irregular and undulating; exceedingly fertile and well cultivated, and calling to mind "merry England," rather than the ideas generally inspired by the scenery of Cambria. Hill and valley, with here and there the flashing stream battling its troubled course towards the sea; the farm, the gentleman's seat, the gray and mossy towers of many a rude and ancient church, and the broad green expanse of this pastoral and sometimes wooded country, form the constituents of the scenery of southern Pembrokeshire. Along the north of the county, however, the land becomes mountainous, and reaches, in some parts, an elevation of 1754 feet. When the atmosphere of the surrounding district is clear, it is said that the summits of these mountains are frequently wrapped in clouds; a circumstance considered by the Pembrokeshire peasant as an unerring forerunner of rain. And this leads us to say one word on the climate, which from the western exposure, is milder and more equable than that of any other county in Great Britain, Cornwall and South Devon excepted; as in those counties the arbutus, the myrtle, and many exotics, flourish in most winters in the open air. Although humid, the climate of this district may be pronounced decidedly healthy. To the geologist, the antiquarian, and the naturalist, Pembrokeshire, like every part of the coast of Wales, offers an almost boundless field for instruction and delight.

*Caldy Island is of some extent, being about one mile long oy half that distance in width. A considerable portion is under profitable cultivation. A Priory (the tower of the Church attached to which, surmounted by a stone spire, is still remaining) was erected on this wild spot in the reign of Henry I. About six years since, the Trinity Board erected a lighthouse on the island, which has proved extremely important to the shipping navigating the bay and channel.

THE CATERPILLAR, THE CHRYSALIS, AND THE
BUTTERFLY. A FABLE.

ALAS! how many sons of clay

Are govern'd by the passing day:
They toil, they reach life's utmost mark,
But all beyond they fancy dark;
In dull distrust await their doom,
And see no light beyond the tomb!
A CATERPILLAR, busy, gay,
Was travelling 'midst the noontide ray;
His form like those we oft have seen,
Two jaws, twelve eyes, and legs sixteen;
Such as in gardens you may find
Upon a cabbage-leaf reclined :
But what is this that he has spied,
That makes him start and turn aside?

It was a shrivell'd, shrouded form,
Though but of late a living worm;
A Caterpillar it had been,
Once clad, like him, in silky green;
But now, how changed by nature's laws!
Where are the eyes, the legs, the jaws?
No signs of being could he trace
In the cold mass; its outer case,
Like cere-cloth round a mummy spread,
'Twas passive, motionless, and dead.
"Well," said the Caterpillar, "This
Is what folks call a CHRYSALIS,
'Tis lifeless as its parent clay,
And really, when I hear them say,
That such can breathe again, and fly,
The proposition I deny.

Believe it? Why, I might as well
Believe in aught impossible!"

He spoke and lo! the shrouded thing
Loosed from its earthy covering,
From shape uncouth, and dusky hue,
Like some fair vision sprung to view.
A glossy wing, in burnish'd pride
Unfolding, rose from either side,
Its tap'ring form in beauty dress'd,
Like gold-dust o'er a yellow vest;
Whilst hands unseen had giv'n the power,
To gather sweets and suck the flower.
It was a BUTTERFLY* as bright
As ever sparkled in the light.

She, casting from her large dark eyes,
A look of sorrow and surprise,
In language of correction firm,
Address'd the foolish flippant worm:
"Peace, trifler! can thy words confine
The Power that form'd that frame of thine
A Power as easily can give

A frame renew'd, and bid it live?
Look round creation, and survey
Life springing forth from life's decay :
In gladsome April view the tree
Resume its verdant livery;
From bars of ice the river freed,
Pursue its course along the mead :
And earth, escaping from th' embrace
Of winter, show a joyous face.

E'en thus the worm, though lowly found,
Groping its way upon the ground,
May yet revive, a creature fair,
And wander 'midst the realms of air."

M.

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upon it, from the points of intersection, communications being formed between them at certain intervals, as may be found expedient. The upper levels, having been longest in operation, will, however, be much further advanced from the shaft than the lower ones, which will, of course, gradually become shorter towards the bottom of the mine, from having been more recently commenced. In the course of time, it will, therefore, become necessary to have another outlet to the surface, both for the sake of air, the more convenient raising of ores, and other reasons. For this purpose a new shaft will now be sunk on one or both sides of the former, according as the orc may be found to extend in one or both directions. As the sinking of a shaft from the surface is a slow and tedious operation, the miner often avails himself of the aid of science to shorten and facilitate the work, by the following beautiful process.

Shaft

IV. PROGRESS OF THE SUBTERRANEAN WORKS OF

A MINE.

HAVING already * described the mode in which mineral veins are discovered, and the preliminary operations for exploring them, we proceed to notice the manner in which these operations are extended, so as to form what is properly termed a mine.

After cutting the vein, the miner is enabled to commence the necessary trials for ascertaining the nature and value of its produce. These trials are chiefly made by excavating small horizontal passages termed levels, which are about three feet wide, and six or seven feet high. The levels are cut in the body of the vein, so as to lay open the various mineral substances of which it is composed, being, in the first instance, commenced from the shaft, at the point where it intersects the vein, and carried in both directions as far as may be considered necessary for trial, or if ore is found, as far as it may encourage the miner to proceed. While this operation is going on, the shaft is gradually sunk deeper, and when it arrives at a certain depth below the first level, generally about ten or twelve fathoms, a short passage or cross-cut is driven from it to the vein, and a second level commenced in the same manner.

In this way the shaft continues to be sunk decper, and new cross-cuts and levels to be driven one below the other, at stated intervals, each level, of course, laying open and exploring the portion of the vein through which it passes. It is customary to call these levels the 10, 20, 30 fathom levels, &c., according to their depth.

When, however, the first levels have been driven some distance from the shaft, the ventilation becomes imperfect, owing to their having but one communication with the external air. To remedy this evil, a small pit, termed by the miner a winze, is sunk from the upper level to the end of the one below, and this communication having been made, a free current of air is at once established. When the levels have advanced further, want of ventilation is again experienced, and again obviated by the same means as before. As the deeper levels advance, winzes are formed between them in the same manner, but are generally placed so as to come about midway between the winzes above, thus dividing the vein into rectangular compartments, not unlike those formed by the seams of mortar in brick-work or masonry.

Should the vein prove productive, it is evident that these operations may be extended indefinitely. The shaft will continue to be sunk deeper, fresh crosscuts will be driven to the vein, and levels extended See Saturday Magazine Vol V p. 76.

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LONGITUDINAL SECTION, Showing the manner in which the Vein is laid open by Levels and Winzes. Having begun the shaft from the surface, at, a point nearly corresponding with the ends of the levels, a series of very accurate subterranean measurements is made, by which it is ascertained to what distance, and in what direction, cross-cuts must be driven from them, so as to come exactly under the spot where the shaft is being sunk from the surface. This having been done, as many cross-cuts as may be convenient are driven to the required points, and at the end of each a rectangular excavation is made, corresponding in form and size with the shaft at the surface, and of course exactly in the same perpendicular line, both with it and with each other. At each of these points parties of men are set to work, excavating both upwards and downwards, and the work of each party being in the same perpendicular line, will finally unite, and thus the shaft will be completed in much less time than if carried on from one point only. Thus, supposing the shaft to be one hundred fathoms in depth, and that on an average but half a fathom per week could be sunk, it would require about four years to accomplish, if sunk from the surface only. If, however, two crosscuts are introduced below, so as to divide the work into three portions, it is evident, that by working upwards and downwards, the shaft may proceed from four or five points at once, and thus be completed in one-fourth part the time, or one year only, and as little or no advantage is derived from the work till completed, the great utility of this mode of proceeding will at once be apparent.

By supposing operations similar to those now described, to be indefinitely extended, the reader will be able to form a pretty good idea of the excavations, which (with others hereafter to be noticed) constitute a mine. The various irregularities to which mineral veins are subject, have, however, often the effect of considerably modifying this system of operations.

It is necessary to observe, that during the progress of the above works, in all cases where the slope of the ground will admit of such an operation, an adit will have been driven to the vein, from the lowest convenient spot in some neighbouring valley. This adit will, of course, be brought into the vein at the same depth as one of the levels, and to this point will form an outlet for the water; that which flows into the mine at a greater depth, must, of course, be raised to the adit by machinery.

If it appears probable that other veins exist near the first, cross-cuts will be driven for the purpose of discovering them: and should they be found, and appear sufficiently productive, levels will be driven upon them from the cross-cuts, and if necessary, new shafts will be sunk from the surface. After cutting the vein, shafts are often sunk upon it in an inclined position, so as to avoid the necessity of driving cross-cuts.

The operations which have now been described, are, however, of a preparatory nature only, having for their object merely to explore the vein, and to lay open the productive portions of it for future working; and although some ore will have been thus obtained, the quantity will have been but trifling, compared to what is still left standing in the untouched portions of the vein.

The process by which the ore is obtained, will, therefore, form the subject of another article, while, by referring to the annexed sketches, the reader will more easily understand the nature of the operations which have formed the subject of the present. The cross-section shows the progress of the shaft after cutting the vein, while the longitudinal one shows the progress of the levels and winzes, and the manner in which the vein is explored by them. The third figure illustrates the manner in which, as noticed above, a shaft is worked from several points at the same time. F. B.

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MERINO SHEEP,

AND THEIR MIGRATIONS.

THE name of Merino, which marks a particular kind of sheep, signifies, in the language of the country, wandering, ambulatory; and is highly descriptive of their habits. They do not always remain in the same farm, or the same province; but they travel from one to another.

Towards the beginning of May, nearly five millions of sheep leave the plains of Estremadura, Andalusia, Old and New Castille, and Leon, and are conducted by the shepherds to the mountains of the two Castilles, those of Biscay, Navarre, and even Arragon. On these more elevated spots they find a fresher herbage, less dried up by the burning sun, which in summer destroys all verdure in the plains. high ground near Segovia is very much frequented by

the sheep.

The

The details of their march are very curious. The rich proprietors, that is to say, those who possess the greatest number of sheep, have formed themselves into a company called the Mesta; this association being necessarily a monopoly, it is difficult to alter any of its laws. It would have been impossible for a few proprietors, with small flocks, to have undertaken these yearly peregrinations: this society was formed to do away this inconvenience, and under the superintendence of persons chosen for the purpose, the flocks are led to the uncultivated lands and mountains of Spain. The Mesta employ between forty and fifty thousand shepherds, who lead a wandering and almost savage life, who never cultivate the ground, and rarely marry; their knowledge being confined wholly to sheep, and in that department they are very skilful.

The flocks of the Mesta are divided into smaller troops of ten thousand sheep each; at the head of which is a mayoral, or chief shepherd, to direct them, fifty inferior shepherds, and the same number of dogs, who keep watch over the sheep. The chief shepherd is on horseback, and has a salary of about

sixty pounds English. The wages of the inferior shepherds vary according to their skill and usefulness. The best paid have about thirty shillings a month: and the worst, not more than eight; but to these last, two pounds of bread a day are given. Every shepherd may have a certain number of sheep and goats of his own, but their wool belongs to the proprietor of the flock. The shepherd has only the milk, the flesh, and the young ones they produce.

Abundant supplies of salt are provided: the sheep The annual coneat as much of it as they like. sumption for a thousand animals is two thousand five hundred pounds.

The Mesta is composed of proprietors, possessing, some four, and others sixty thousand sheep.

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The

The march of these large flocks is regulated by particular laws, derived from immemorial custom. The sheep have a right of pasturage in all those waste lands which are reserved for that purpose, paying a fixed price to the proprietors, beyond which they can exact nothing. They cannot enter upon cultivated grounds: but the owners are obliged to reserve them a passage, forty-five fathoms wide. sheep travel two leagues a day in their own pastures; but they go six when they pass through arable lands. Their emigrations extend to a hundred and twenty, and a hundred and fifty leagues. The Mesta has its particular laws, and a tribunal called the "Honourable Council of the Mesta." It is composed of four judges, and one of the members of the Council of Castille is their president.

[Spain Yesterday and To-day.]

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