manner in which his Lordship was received and entertained by his former friend. A curious reminiscence is mentioned that, in the days of Lady M. Montague those corrupt days just spoken of-women did not, as now, act on the stage.

At a soirée given by the Princess Metternich to enable his Lordship to hear Thalberg, the writer says

I enjoyed another long conversation with Metternich relative to an old and common friend of ours-alas, for his country and the world, now no more!-I mean the celebrated Chevalier Von Genz. No one, who has turned his attention to the political state of Europe for the last twenty years, can be ignorant of the great card this famous compiler and writer has played in the allied congresses, and in the counsels of all the cabinets.

Eleven years ambassador at Vienna had made me intimately acquainted with his singular abilities; and Metternich repeated to me, once again, what I had often heard him say before, that he never knew man, and believed none ever existel, who possessed such intellectual powers, and such facility and felicity in giving expression to them.

It is not, then, passing strange that this profound genius, this subtle politician, this phoenix of literature and composition, should have died actually from an overwhelming excess of the passion of love?-and this, too, at an age, when nature cools down the passions, and bids them subside? for he was near fourscore: yet so the case stands. He imbibed a maddening attachment for Fanny Ellsler, the Vienna danseuse, then more partially known, but of late conspicuous both in England and America. Her early charms and fascinations turned the philosopher's brain. His habits of business wholly ceased; and, on Prince Metternich's observing_and reasoning with him upon this change, Genz assigned, as his formal excuse, "that he had been thunderstruck with the result of the days of July, that from that moment he had given up Europe for lost, and was convinced that no effort could save the world from anarchy and confusion, and therefore he ceased to occupy himself with state affairs."

Met

ternich argued with him, "that, in proportion as greater dangers arose, so ought men of capacity to rise more energetically to the combat." But Genz then more candidly avowed, "that he had abandoned himself entirely to one engrossing feeling; he proclaimed it, he gloried in it; he was fondly, passionately, desperately, eternally in love, and had only that existence and that deity.

On this opera-girl poor Genz lavished large sums of money, and, whilst exhibiting his partiality, contracted debts, and ultimately died in penury and wretchedness. It s due, however, to this enchanting creature,

Fanny Ellsler, to say that she behaved very kindly to him, and seemed vain at having subdued and attached a person of such high and undoubted genius. Prince Metternich related also that he was with his friend a few hours before he breathed his last, and that this individual, who was proverbially known to be so timorous, that he dreaded his own shadow, nevertheless, by the force of the one prodominant feeling, died with the greatest calmness and courage, declaring he embraced death as a relief from the devouring passion that consumed him. He thus departed, at the ripe age of fourscore, a victim to the affections.

Genz left behind him some beautiful sentimental letters in manuscript, addressed to his fair dulcinea, breathing feelings stronger, perhaps, than ever were penned before. I could not obtain copies."

Speaking of the Opera, that the ballet d'enfans had been put a stop to by the Emperor Francis, on the ground of immorality, his Lordship adds-"there may be wisdom and virtue in the decision, but still the loss in pleasure and amusement at the theatres is extreme."

The Marquess, unable to master his feelings at bidding, in person perhaps, a final adieu in this life, addresses a note to Prince Metternich, and receives the following earnest reply :

:

"Ce 15 8bre, 1840. "Mon cher Marquis,-C'est avec bien des regrets que je ne vous ai plus vu: conservez moi votre amitié et revenez nous voir, car je n'ai guère de chance d'aller vous chercher;

mon existence ressemble à celle des coraux fixés sur un roc, et qui ne se déplacent qu'avec la base sur laquelle ils sont attachés. J'accepte ainsi avec satisfaction votre bon augure, car je ne voudrois également point mourir sans vous avoir revu.

Notre connoissance et amitié datent d'unépoque qui aujourd'hui à la valeur de ces tems que l'histoire même qualifie d'héroïque. Tous les souvenirs qui s'attachent à des tems pareils ont un charme égal pour l'esprit et pour le cœur.

Je vous recommande au Lieutenant Colonel Philippoville, qui fera le voyage avec vous à Constantinople. C'est un officier très distingué, et que nous envoyons en Turquie pour le mettre aux ordres de la Porte.

Il pourra vous servir de Dragoman, car il sçait le Turc, aussi bien que nous deux ne le sçavons pas.

Vous trouverez ce inclus la lettre à l'Internonce."

Mille hommages à Madame la marquise, et que le bon Dieu vous protége dans votre voyage.

Conservez moi souvenir et amitié."

" METTERNICH."

Had we not been so lengthy in our early progress, we would gladly have commenced our reviewing here, when his Lordship is proceeding with Lady Londonderry to Constantinople, leaving their family for safety at Vienna, and intending to reach Naples on New-year's Day. The voyage and its numerous disasters and inconveniences must, then, be left, for the reasons stated, to the enquiring reader. Arrived at Constantinople, the Marquess seeks an interview with the Pacha at the hands of Lord Ponsonby, to whom he has " special official" letters of introduction. That functionary, however, "declines the task," and a long and spirited correspondence takes place, in which the former abroad and Lord Palmerston at home are both severely condemned, and with apparent good reason, we should be inclined to say. However, by the kindness of the Austrian ambassador, an introduction is readily sought and granted, of which the following are the particulars. The hour was fixed for eight in the evening :

66

"Reschid Pacha had, upon my arrival, sent two of the keevoches (Turkish personal guards) to attend on mc. These were mounted on hired horses; two attendants followed with flambeaux, and I rode, accompanied by my friends, to Tophana, where boats were waiting; on crossing the water, a new relay of horses was ready at the other side, and we proceeded up the almost impracticable byeways to Reschid's palace.

Dismounting, I was surrounded by his followers, guards &c., and conducted through low ante-rooms to a staircase, at the top of which Reschid Pacha received me; this was a marked honor, as Mussulmen generally think themselves humiliated by shewing much courtesy to Christians. The pacha led me through two rooms to a cabinet, in the middle of which was a brass brazier; and four large wax candles, in tall candlesticks, stood on the floor, as is usual in all Turkish apartments. I was then motioned to sit down, and, waiting due time, according to eastern usage, and to produce an imposing effect, I proceeded, as I had been instructed, to ask after his excellency's health; this being always the preface in every Turkish con

ference. Another great point is, to be extremely slow, and allow great intervals to elapse, not only between every thing you hear and your rejoiner, but also between every subject that is started and the succeeding. His excellency having replied as to his health, and inquired after mine, we discoursed much at length on common topics, Constantinople, England, the alliance, the war, &c. In about twenty minutes, ten or twelve slaves entered, bearing very long pipes, with yellow tops, and placed before each of us a small box with lighted tinder, in which the end of the pipe reposed. Each of the visitants was offered the pipes in succession. I declined on the plea of my health -a sufficient excuse-direct refusal being considered an affront; such, too, would have been an affront, in the omission, on their part, of this attention to my presumed wants.

When the cabinet was so full of smoke that one could hardly see, the attendants returned, and carried away the pipes; conversation was resumed, and then more servants entered, bearing in very small cups, placed in an ornamented and costly holder, a few spoonfuls of excellent coffee, already sugered, without cream or milk. The company, just sipping these, returned them, and the servants vanished; shortly afterwards, they again advanced with large cut glasses, some filled with red sweetmeat or clear water, and others full of sherbet, perfumed with attar of rose. The latter was particularly good and refreshing; and I considered an ample indulgence in it the most agreeable part of the ceremonial. After an hour's visit I rose, and, saying every thing I really felt of graciousness and kindness to this very agreeable minister, who speaks French admirably, and with whom I wanted no interpreter, I took my leave, being followed out through the rooms by his excellency. We returned on horseback to ourquarters in the same order as we had arrived; but nothing could be more disagreeable and fatiguing than this going about and paying nocturnal visits à cheval.

I should here mention that I requested Reschid Pacha to allow Lady Londonderry the advantage of being presented to his wife, and seeing his harem; he kindly acquiesced, and fixed the following Thursday, the twelfth, for the ceremony. I having had my interview on the sixth, this long period was probably taken to have the harem in the highest order."

"On a subsequent day, while my own time was occupied in audiences and visits as narrated, Lady Londonderry was appointed by Reschid Pacha to visit his lady and his harem, and on a subsequent day, she was not only presented to the wife of the Seraskier and all his ladies, but it was also proposed to her to partake of a Turkish dinner. All the great Pachas have their separate harems, but they have generally a declared wife, who

takes precedence; and there is certain decorum preserved towards this chosen female, though otherwise there may be many indiscretions. It is a rule that the favorites in the seraglio should be concealed from the wife, they being nominally, at least, her slaves. And when the pachas visit the harem accidentally, they fly from him as if from a scourge. Some pachas are also more particular than others, as to their wives. Reschid Pacha and the seraskier had no scruple in introducing theirs, but Achmet and others refused; the former ladies, however, I must add, being notorious as not possessing much beauty, whereas the latter were said to be quite divine creatures."

Of the Turkish women his Lordship

says:

"As far as I could pronounce on the general beauty of the Turkish women, although but partially seen, I should say, though not generally handsome, they are all well built, and well grown, strong, and apparently healthy. Their eyes and eyebrows are invariably fine and expressive; and their hair is beyond measure superior to that of other nations. The thickness of its braidings and plaids, and the masses that are occasionally to be seen as by stealth, leave no doubts of this. Their eyelids are painted, and, I believe, in many cases, the eyebrows also; throwing a shade over the orb, which is thus softened into a more luxurious expression. The tincture for the eyelids is of a black hue; and the nails of the hands, which are singularly small and delicate, are generally dyed red.

As to feet and legs, one can scarcely pronounce upon them, the former being always hidden by large high yellow slippers, or half buskins, and the latter covered by such long drapery and petticoats, that no eye can pierce the enclosure.

The Armenian women are distinguished by red slippers: many of these, and also the Circassians and Georgians, however rarely met with, are very beautiful, and their wild head-dresses, of all colors, and winding their fine hair in folds of gauze, variegated as the rainbow, and decked with all sorts of flowers, gives their appearance a singularly romantic effect.

The strictest propriety of conduct is always observed in all the public promenades and streets by day; and after seven o'clock in the evening no person at Constantinople is seen out of doors, and the women are totally invisible.

The Marquess (although with less of truth than courtesy he elsewhere declares his satisfaction) differs not a little from Miss Pardoe in his opinions about Constantinople, the latter speaking of its loveliness, the former its desolate and uninviting aspect.

66

"As I really believe," says his Lordship, a true description has never been given, by any of the various writers, of the whole ceremony of the bath, I shall endeavour to detail it accurately.

In mentioning his first and only visit to the Turkish baths, after due preparation, immersion, &c., when the effects were exhibiting themselves freely, the noble sufferer, "growing annoyed, made all signs he could to get out of the bath. The following are the correct particulars :

"It was the Galata bath I entered from the street, with my dragoman, who was stopped and separated from me at the door. The spacious arched room, or hall, was surrounded with several compartments, resembling large boxes at the theatre. On each side was a high staircase, leading to the second range of these separate enclosures.

The

floor was of stone, or marble. A hot vapor issued from the room, but it was not overcoming.

I was conducted by an attendant up to a corner box. This person helped me to undress, stripping me to the waist, and baring my legs; then, making me stand up, he placed a double folded napkin on the top of head. He next led me forth down the my steps, and, on the threshold, delivered me over to two men, the bathers I may call them, whose appearance was perfectly disgusting, they being naked to the middle, with bare legs and feet; their beards were shaved, but the large mustachios and black tufts of hair left at the top of their heads, their skins of a perfect olive color, and their large brawny arms and sprawling hands, made me shudder and shrink back from their grasp. But it was vain.

more.

They thrust my feet into two large wooden sabots, or clogs, but, if meant to prevent slipping on the pavement, it had not this effect to those unaccustomed to their use, for they evidently occasioned them to slip much Held up by my unwelcome supporters, I was forced forward through three successive rooms, the first having a temperature of about 80, the second 100, and the third 120 or 130. In the last square bathroom, as these I believe are denominated, there are four marble cisterns for hot water, with a turn-cock to each. The vault and floor of this place are of marble, and so managed that the waters, flowing in, run off immediately. There is a low stone seat round the room, and upon this I shortly found myself squatted down, with my two persecutors in front, gazing on their victim.

In a few minutes I began to perspire in so unusual, and to me alarming a manner, that I became faint, and felt most uncomtable. We continued, however, until I felt as if I had been completely immersed in water, and, growing annoyed, I made all the

signs I could to be led out of the bath. Such, however, alas! was not my fate. One of my keepers disappeared; and the other coming up, seized my neck and shoulders, and commenced inflicting heavy pinches, which he dexterously continued all over my body; and when I flinched on one side, he sprang to the other, got round me, and pinioned my elbows so as to make them meet, cracking the bones of my back, squeezing my hands, and pulling my fingers simultaneously."

Enough, surely, to make the noble Marquess vow he would never enter a Turkish bath again.

Here we arrive at a new scene- -the Slave-market :

The next revolting, but curious place I saw, and it comes well under review after the bath, was the slave-market. Although Great Britain has given twenty millions in the West Indies to abolish this abominable traffic, it continues and rages in full force on the northern coasts of Africa as elsewhere. The Algerines bring in numbers of slaves to Turkey, and unless Her Majesty's ships of war are constantly on the station to seize and confiscate every ship of all nations that has slaves on board, our twenty millions and example will go for nothing in the Meliterranean, and the traffic there will proceed as freely as ever.

At the door of the great court, near the mosque bazaar, stands the head slave-master, by whom you are admitted. Around the court are cells, in which the negroes and negrosses, as well as all white slaves, are deposited; and where they eat, drink, sleep, and cook. Before each miserable abode is a square or oblong-raised wooden platform; on which, in the day, the slaves are ranged and seated. It is impossible to imagine so ugly a race of human beings as the negresses: they are divided from the men, and each section or division is under a slave-master; while the proprietor, Algerine, Moor, or Jew, sits on benches below and surrounding the cellsthe dirt, filth, and abominable stench of this place savour of the abodes of beasts rather than of the human species.

Yet, with all this painful, and loathsome, and demoralizing exterior, travellers agree that slavery in Turkey appears in its mildest form, and is by no means the fearful thing avarice and cruelty have rendered it among Europeans and Americans.* The women of

*On the subject of the Harems and morality in Turkey, the following official correspondence not long after his Lordship's visit is not a little interesting :

Georgia and Circassia exult in the hopes thus afforded them of an improved condition, and an advancement in life which could never be anticipated for them in their native soil. The the subject of slavery in Turkey, with the hopes of arriving at some result that would afford a chance of obtaining in any degree the object your Lordship so earnestly desires to accomlish. I have mentioned the subject, and I have been heard with extreme astonishment, accompanied with a smile, at a proposition for destroying an institution closely interwoven with the frame of society in this country, and intimately connected with the law and with the habits, and even the religion, of all classes of the people, from the Sultan himself down to the lowest peasant.

The Sultans, for some centuries past, have never married, and the imperial race is perpetuated by mothers who are slaves.

In all other families slaves may be, and often are, the mothers of legitimatised children, who are in all respects as much esteemed as those of legal wives.

The admirals, the genera's, the ministers of state, in great part, have been originally slaves. In most familics a slave enjoys the highest degree of confidence and influence with the head of the house.

To carry what your Lordship desires into execution it will be necessary to limit the law of succession to the Crown and alter the policy that has so long guided the Sultans in that respect, and also to change fundamentally the political and civil institutions and laws and the domestic arrangements of the people. Universal confusion would perhaps be the consequence of such violent changes, and probably those persons intended to be most benefited by them would be the greatest sufferers.

The slaves are generally well protected against ill treatment, by custom and the habits of the Turks, and by the interests of masters and their religious duty, and, perhaps, slaves in Turkey are not to be considered worse off than men everywhere else who are placed by circumstances in a dependent situation; whilst, on the other hand, they may attain, and constantly do enjoy, the highest dignities, the greatest power, and largest share of wealth of any persons in the empire.

I think that all attempts to effect your Lordship's purpose will fall, and 1 fear they might give offence if urged forward with importunity. I was asked, "what would the English Government think of the Sublime Porte if it was to call upon the Sovereign of England and the people of England to alter the fundamental law of their country, and change its domestic habits and customs in order to please the taste of the Turks?

I could perceive, in spite of the good humoured politeness with which this question was asked, that there was something like wounded feeling in the speaker.

The Turks may believe us to be their superiors in the sciences, in arts, and in arms; but they are very far from thinking our wisdom or our morality greater than their own." I have, &c.

PONSONBY.
The Right Hon. Viscourt Palmerston,
G, C. B., &c.
[COURT MAGAZINE.]