112

A SPANISH OFFICER.

in imitation of the others, we also partook, at the risk of an immediate surfeit. There was, however, one point in which we did not, though at Rome, do as the Romans did,—the wine was capital, and we found a pint not at all adequate to dilute such masses of solids; we therefore boldly called for a couple of bottles more, and as we drank, our English reserve, by degrees, thawed under the influence of the Malaguayan vintage.

There was at a table near us a Spanish officer in uniform; we gradually entered into conversation; he spoke French, much to my companion's satisfaction, drank like an Englishman, blarneyed like an Irishman, and in five minutes after we were seated at the same table, we were sworn friends, and found Doctor Pinsiano (for such was his name and title) a most agreeable little fellow. He belonged to the Queen's army, and was on his way to take charge of the hospitals at Valencia. But it would be in vain to attempt to recount all his yarns; suffice it to say, that, after our wine, we proposed grog, to which he immediately acceded, and calling Pépé, told him he wanted

an Inglez, (an Englishman.) We could not make out what the deuce he alluded to, by requiring a third, after having been a couple of hours in company with a brace of them. At length, Pépé expounded the mystery, by bringing in three Englishmen―viz., three glasses of hot and strong grog!

114

ROMAN REMAINS.

CHAPTER XIV.

Roman remains at Malaga-Presidarios-The cathedral --Anecdote of Cano, the Spanish painter and sculptor-Streets of Malaga-Buildings of the time of Charles Vth.-The English burial-ground-Tomb of Mr. Boyd-Conspiracy of Torrejos-Its termination.

THE morning after our arrival at Malaga I was out early, to take some sketches of Roman remains in the Alameida, which have been brought from a village called Cartama, an old Roman settlement, about twelve miles distant. They consist of several colossal fragments; amongst others, the bust of a woman, the remains of an Apollo, a column with Roman inscriptions, etc. I also took a sketch

of a Moorish archway, forming the entrance of the civil hospital, from whence a number of presidarios (or galley-slaves) were taking cannon-shot to the Giberalfaro, or castle.

Their number appears very great, and is said to amount to 1500 or 2000. The period of their confinement varies from two to ten years, and in some cases for life, for crimes of every description, murder being oftener punished in this way than by death.

After breakfast, my companion and myself went to see the cathedral: although much disappointed by the thinness of the attendance, we were delighted with the building, which is one of the most magnificent structures I ever beheld. It bears the date of 1770, and, like many other things commenced in Spain. at so remote a period, is not completed. The statuary it contains is peculiar, from being coloured and executed with great precision and taste, and produces a capital effect. The cathedral can also boast of a few paintings by Cano and Murillo, two of the most celebrated Spanish masters, who lived in the fifteenth century. There is a story current

116

THE STREETS OF MALAGA.

of the former, (who was, like Michael Angelo, also a sculptor,) that he was so devoted to the fine arts, and possessed such an intuitive taste, that even on his death-bed he refused to kiss the crucifix, because the figure of our Saviour, which it supported, was badly executed!

The streets of Malaga are narrow, and the houses have all the appearance of Moorish origin; the overhanging balconies, grated windows, and the court yards surrounded by verandahs, in the middle of which is invariably a fountain, or well, stamping them with that character. The town, in addition to many Moorish buildings, can likewise boast of some Roman remains, and these are both sometimes strangely blended with the gothic buildings of more modern structure, particularly of the time of Charles the Fifth, who resided much in this part of Andalusia.

In the course of the morning, with Pépé as a guide, we visited the Campo Santo, appropriated to the burial of those heretical English who may come to leave their bones in this far land. The tombs, few in number,