cluded, our dinner made its appearance, in the shape of abundance of fried eggs and bacon, swimming in oceans of oil, and backed by a "gaspachio," than which, our hostess. assured us, we could not have a more national dish to present to the "caballero nuevo," who, however reluctantly, was obliged to partake of everything on the table, as we assured him that by not doing so he would give mortal offence.

In the course of conversation, one of the gamekeepers happening to mention that he had brought in a "corso," it was immediately produced, and turned out to be a fine roe deer, for which one of my companions immediately struck a bargain for a couple of dollars, and, swearing us to secrecy, strapped it on in front of his saddle, in order to take it back to the garrison as the produce of his own rifle.

How long we might have kept up this jovial party is uncertain, had I not reminded our compañeros" that, if we intended to

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238

CONVENT OF THE CORK WOOD.

visit the convent on our way back, we had no time to lose.

We accordingly paid the reckoning, and giving our Spanish friends the whole stock of "puritos" we had with us, and a hearty shake of the hand, mounted our steeds, and soon found ourselves at the gate of the Almoraïma, or Convent of the Cork wood.

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The old Padre was much disappointed when he heard that we had already dined at the Long Stables;" however, after he had taken us round the chapel, cells, etc., he brought us to the refectory, where, on a clean table-cloth, was displayed some dried figs and raisins, together with a couple of bottles of wine, which he pronounced to be "muy particolar," and which, to the sorrow of some of the party, we were induced to try.

We made the best of our way back, and reached the gates barely in time to avoid being shut out for the night.

ALGESIRAS.

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CHAPTER XXIV.

Ramble amongst the scenes beyond Algesiras-Fort San Felipe-Its present dismantled state-Carteia-Its antiquity-Remains of the Amphitheatre-The Tharshish of Solomon-Occupied by the Carthaginians-and Romans Ancient coins - Gothic watch-towers-The Guadranque-Derivation of the name of Algesiras-The Isla Verde-Modern town -Balconies and iron bars-Spanish ladies-The Siesta-Town of Algesiras - The Campo SantoThe aqueduct The Baranco-Mountain streamVariety of plants-The Molino de San BernardoThe Miller's family-Cigars-Return to Algesiras Artillery of the eyes from the balconies-Female partiality to strangers-The Andalusian maid.

Gibraltar, May 15, 1838.

ALGESIRAS is the most considerable town between this and Cadiz, and, when the tide is low, a trip there affords a pleasant ride of nine

240

FORT SAN FELIPE.

or ten miles along the beach,* in the course of which several interesting objects are passed. First, about two miles from the Bayside Barrier we come to the ruins of Fort San Felipe, which, during the siege, did such execution on the garrison. I believe it was reduced to its present state by us, with the consent of the Spanish government, lest it should afford a point of occupation to the French. Within twenty-four hours after the order had been given for its destruction, with such alacrity was it carried into effect, that it was, from a strong battery, reduced to its present state -a heap of ruins. The next day, a counter order arrived from Madrid, annulling the previous consent to its demolition, but the deed had been already done, and irremediably so, as of course the British government will

* The distance across by water is about five miles; matches have at different times, and with various success, been made by a boat's crew, to pull across, against a man riding along the beach, from Gibraltar to Algesiras.

never again suffer its re-construction, under the very guns of our rocky fortress.

A couple of miles from Fort San Felipe, still continuing along the beach, brings you to a small fishing village, which generally goes in the garrison by the name of Carteïa, although the site of that ancient city is on a hill a little further forward, and to which a road leads, over a Moorish bridge, crossing a rivulet at a spot commonly called the Orange-grove. Diverging a little from the sea-shore as you ascend, you come to what was once the amphitheatre, the remains of which are distinctly to be traced, though much of the materials have been removed, to build the neighbouring farm-houses of Rocadillo.

The origin of Carteïa is lost in the mist of ages; its foundation is attributed to the Phoenicians, who frequented these shores for commercial purposes, and to carry on the tunny fisheries. It is also supposed to have been the Tharshish of Scripture, from whence, nearly 3000 years ago, the navies of Solomon