22

CAPE ST. VINCENT.

whose beautiful appearance is too familiar to require any comment.

The light breezes of the 10th carried us opposite Cape St. Vincent, a spot celebrated in history on more than one occasion, and from whence a Jarvis and a Napier have derived their titles. On losing sight of the Cape, we shortly made the African coast, where, like the Peri at the gates of Paradise, we have since been lingering, in the vain endeavour to pass the columns of Hercules. Here, with a strong easterly wind blowing in our teeth, our old tub of a vessel makes so much lee-way that, what we gain on one tack we invariably lose on the other; and in the morning find ourselves in front of the identical landmarks, hidden from our sight by the darkness of the preceding evening, with the consoling reflection, that should we chance to be driven ashore during the night, we should only escape drowning to have our

* Sir Charles Napier, R.N., on account of the victory here obtained over the Miguelite fleet, on July 5th, 1833, received the Portuguese title of Count Cape St. Vincent.

throats cut by the inhospitable barbarians who inhabit this part of the coast.*

But "paciencia," as our Lisbon friends used to say, and I await in that state, and with resignation, until a change of wind shall favour

us.

*For an account of the murder of part of the crew of an English vessel on these shores, vide one of the numbers of the "United Service Journal," for, I think, 1832.

24

ABILA AND CALPE.

CHAPTER III.

Mons Abila and Calpe-Appearance of the RockJumper and Elliott-Disembarkation-Loss of the Don Juan steamer.

New Mole, Gibraltar, Oct. 18, 1837.

THE same baffling easterly wind kept us knocking about until yesterday, giving us abundant leisure to contemplate and admire the conclusion of the labours of Hercules, as we alternately tacked from one of his columns towards the other, from the African Mons Abila, to the European Calpe. The former, at present better known as Apeshill, presented a striking contrast to its brother, the "Mountain of Taric," from which, in Arabic, is derived the present modern appellation of GibralThe one, apparently connected with the

tar.

"broad Atlas," presented a smiling scene of wood and verdure, whilst the other, isolated, and, as it were, cut off from all communion with the world, frowned in barren solitude and grandeur on the fair scene around. A fairer scene never met mortal ken than that wherewith we feasted our eyes, whilst so long vainly endeavouring to gain the desired haven; and it was with almost feelings of regret that, after so long gamboling on the clear, though bubbling waters of the Straits, we at last, yesterday afternoon, found ourselves snugly at anchor in the smooth basin of the New Mole-on the scene so interesting to every scholar, but more particularly so to every Englishman, who, as he contemplates the barren and sun-burnt cinder above him, still barren and sun-burnt, in spite of all the blood wherewith it has oft been deluged, cannot fail to recall, with pride and satisfaction, the exploits of his gallant countrymen-of Jumper and of Elliott, who so nobly won, and so obstinately defended, this bright jewel of our crown.

I am writing on board the transport, amidst a scene of noise and confusion which baffles all description, and an idea of which, can only be formed by those, who may have been so far blessed as to have found themselves placed amidst a large body of troops at the moment of their disembarkation.

I must, however, take opportunity by the forelock. From the cabin windows I have a tolerable view of the "Rock." The upper part looks like a huge mass of gray cinder, such as you see cast forth from a blacksmith's forge.

As you descend towards the sea, the sides appear to become gradually clothed in verdure, and amidst the trees are seen peeping what I am sure must be pretty little cottages, which I long to be exploring.

But to give any further idea of the place would at present be a vain attempt; I shall only say, I was never, I was never, at first sight, more delighted with any spot. In my opinion, the beauty of the landscape completely beats the bay of Naples.

The steamer, commanded by my friend E—,