ROMANTIC SCENERY.

247

lack of vegetation, and these "barancos" have generally each its tributary stream, over whose banks wave in boundless luxuriance the most beautiful shrubs, plants, and flowers, many of which, in our less favoured climate, are only to be found as inmates of the garden or hothouse nor was the present an exception to the general rule. On entering the mouth of the gorge, the rushing sound of waters assailed our ears. Making our way through the cork and ilex trees, we soon discovered that it proceeded from a brook rolling its clear waters over shiny pebbles, and amidst huge fragments of rock, from whose interstices sprang up the gum cistus, the rhododendron, the bay-tree, and snowy laurestine, under the shade of which, some of the most beautiful specimens of bulbous plants, and in particular a great variety of the bright-coloured iris, enamelled the green carpet beneath, and agreeably broke its universally shaded tone; whilst, in the very bed of the torrent, on every little sandy knoll, and as if in defiance of its waters

248

A SPANISH WATER-MILL.

in their most angry mood, arose graceful clumps of the pink-flowered oleander.

Such were the banks of the stream along whose devious course we guided our surefooted little Andalusians, over the rough and rock-strewn goat-path, which at last brought us in sight of a water-mill, at all times a pretty object in a landscape, but here, nestled amidst this fairy wilderness, it looked like an enchanted bower, the retired abode of content and happiness: nor did the appearance of the inmates belie these prognostics. The fat old miller, his portly consort, and their blooming daughter, all the pictures of health, hastened out to see the unusual sight of three strange "caballeros" in this lonely glen; and whilst the former, with the frank cordiality of a Spanish peasant, bade us welcome to the "Molino de San Bernardo," his wife and the "Maid of the Mill" were bustling about to get us wine and other refreshments to add to their mid-day meal, which they were just about to partake of when interrupted by our ar

rival, and which we joined in with pleasure; we afterwards completely won the heart of the good old "molinero," by giving him a stock of Gibraltar cigars, which in Spain, owing to the duty on tobacco, are always considered rarities, and appreciated accordingly.*

We were much pleased by the intelligence he afforded us, that, further up the ravine, were often to be met with a stray roe-deer or wild boar; and as he assured us that, at a few hours' notice, we could always procure a sufficient quantity of beaters to rouse the game, we took our leave, promising in a short time to return, and have a couple of days' sport.

On our way back to Algesiras, Lieutenant Lacy found a point of view calculated for his sketch; and by the time he had completed it

* We generally took care to provide ourselves with the coarse, cheap cigars, manufactured at Gibraltar; but some of our country friends knew right well the difference of flavour between these and the milder Havannahs.

and we had reached the town, the hour of the siesta was over: whilst our horses were eating a feed of straw and barley, we strolled through the streets, and were amply repaid by the many pretty faces and figures taking exercise at the open windows or balconies overlooking them. Nor did we find that our glances were either taken amiss or unreturned. Women are the same all the world over,always partial to new and foreign faces; and on the same principle that the fair Englishwoman smiles on the moustachioed and bewhiskered Frenchman or Pole, so does the smooth face of the British soldier often find favour in the bright eyes of Spain's darkeyed maidens.

66

THE

EMILY."

251

CHAPTER XXV.

Trip to the opposite coast of Africa-Martine-A messenger despatched to Tetuan-The "Namaz” -A Moorish beauty-Crowded quarters-Rioters in the Camp-Summary justice.

A PARTY composed of several individuals, of which the author was one, after getting clean bills of health, embarked at the Waterport Gate, and soon found themselves on board a fine Latine craft, called the "Emily ;" and with a fair breeze from the north-west, got out of the bay at a little after ten, A.M., and boldly steered across Calpe's Straits,

"Surveyed the steepy shore

Where Europe and Afric on each other gaze!"

and swiftly approached the latter coast.