richly embroidered, and ending with loose sleeves. From the waist downwards the dress presented nothing peculiar: petticoats (they were green) are all much alike,

“But what was shocking,

Their small white feet had slippers, but no stocking."

I at first thought this was a holiday costume, and, perhaps, assumed on account of the arrival of strangers, but I found afterwards that all the young women here dressed in the same style, carrying their dowry in the jewels and pearls about them. The names of these beautiful sisters were Esther and Seemah. I could not help complimenting them on their appearance, and requested, as a great favour, to be allowed to attempt to take their pictures, to which they immediately acceded.

268

A VISIT TO

CHAPTER XXVII.

Visit to the Vice-Consul-Hash-Hash, the BashawHis extortions-His gluttony-A renegade-Appearance of the town-Jewish quarters-The sons and daughters of Israel-A question for Lavater— A Moorish marriage procession-The feast at Bendurlack's Visits in the Jewish quarter-Furniture of the houses-Elegance of manner-Terraced roofs The synagogue-Difficulties made to our starting-A Moorish interior.

May 20th.

PROCEEDED to the English Vice-Consul, Mr. Butler, to make arrangements about our departure in a couple of days, and also to get the escort of a soldier during our stay here, which I heard was indispensably necessary for our safety, even in going about the town,

THE VICE-CONSUL.

269

such irreclaimable savages are these barbarians, in every sense of the word.

I met with every civility from the ViceConsul, and from his description of the place did not envy him his situation, which is only worth about 150l. a year, on which he had a large grown-up family to support, was the only Christian in the place, and for months together never saw an European face. He introduced his son, a fine lad of nineteen or twenty, but who, from the complete solitude in which he was brought up, laboured under every disadvantage.

Mr. Butler immediately sent to the Bashaw, Hash-Hash, for a soldier to accompany us in our rambles, and confirmed what I had before heard of the little safety of venturing out without being thus escorted.

Whilst his interpreter went on this errand, he related to me a few particulars of the worthy representative of the Emperor of Morocco, at Tetuan. He mentioned him as a most extortionate old knave, who expected

considerable presents from strangers, even for an interview. However, as one of the party had been commissioned to make him a handsome gift, and had promised to give us the benefit of being present when it was offered, we all expected to have a sight of His Excellency Hash-Hash gratis; and by all accounts he is worth seeing, being of such an enormous bulk that he cannot enter a common-sized door. To keep up this mass of flesh, he feeds most voraciously. I do not exactly remember the number of fowls he is said to devour daily, but it was something incredible.

After a short time, the interpreter returned with a soldier of the Emperor, of whom everybody stands in the greatest awe. In appearance he was like anything but a Moor, being of a fair complexion and light blue eyes, with a venerable white beard. He was armed with a long matchlock and sword, beside a tough thornstick, of which I soon learned the use. I was glad to find that he understood Spanish, and he afterwards confessed himself to be a rene

gade from Minorca, which he left very young. Under his auspices, we all sallied out through the town. If I had been struck, in the morning, with its resemblance to an Indian city, the impression only became stronger the more I saw of it. The bazaars, the turbaned inhabitants, the dogs, the filth, and, above all, a few camels, with their long arched necks and ambling gait, all recalled most strongly old associations.

The Jews have a separate part of the town allotted to them, and walled in from the rest, and into this they are locked every evening, though it is certainly the most bustling part of the city, and evidently the emporium of trade; but, go where you please, the same characters always mark these sons of Israel, and are so forcibly written on their external lineaments, that whether with the skullcap, embroidered vest, and sash of Barbary, or with old clothes' bags on their shoulders, in Monmouth Street, there is no mistaking them. In their prying and busy countenances