282

SORRY CATTLE.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Bad cattle-Camels and caravans-The Ain-é-Sdeed, or new fountain-The halt-Horses completely done up-Arrive at Tangiers-Bribe the porter— Go to Benoliel's-Mahomed Sheriffe-A Jewish marriage The lady of the closed eyes-The bridegroom rather nervous-Moorish maids-A late supper.

22nd May, 1838.

IT was a beautiful sunshiny morning, when our caravan put itself in motion from under the walls of Tetuan, and we were all in the highest spirits; all except the cavalry, and they looked very sore and sorry, not without cause, for on making a start, I never saw such a collection of cripples, but we were assured that as they got warm they

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would go better; we were obliged to take this for granted, and limped in the best way we could through the rough path, winding amidst the tall canes which waved over the gardens surrounding the town.

We soon got into a more open country, richly clothed with crops of barley; and as we slowly followed each other along the fertile valley, a high range, called the Huadras Hills, rose on our right, whilst far to the left might be seen the distant tops of the Atlas, and I often could not refrain from pulling up for a few minutes to admire the beauty of the scenery, so different from the ideas we always associate with the very name of Africa, its boundless deserts of sand, and barren plains; here, on the contrary, all was verdure, with the appearance of the greatest fertility. But one feature in the landscape was strongly characteristic, and, in itself, sufficient to remind us we were no longer on European ground-ever and anon a camel was to be seen grazing in the fields, or slowly wending its way along the path with its

turbaned or haïck-covered* rider on its back. At one place, in which the road was very narrow and ran along the steep banks of a torrent, we were put to considerable inconvenience by meeting with a long string of these animals, which we were informed were on their way from Fez to Tetuan.

It was now about ten or eleven o'clock, and although we had passed through a cultivated country, with the exception of a few huts far up a ravine,—I had not observed a sign of habitation. We next entered a more hilly tract, covered with underwood, principally composed of a pretty tree of a very dark and thick foliage, somewhat resembling the olive. We scrambled over the most abominable road to the top of a densely-wooded ridge, and shortly after commencing our descent on the other side, we were about mid-day rejoiced at the sight of our halting-place, under a shady

*The haïck is a coarse woollen garment, like a smock-frock, with a cowl like a friar's, which either covers the head, or is thrown back on the shoulders.

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tree, near the source of a brook, over which was a rude and dilapidated building, dignified by the name of the Ain-é-Sdeed, or new fountain.

The animals were soon freed from their burdens, and turned adrift to graze, the provisions produced, and we all sat down in the most sociable manner to one of the pleasantest pic-nics I ever witnessed. The Moorish merchant and our guards likewise drew forth their stores, consisting of dried figs, raisins, and cakes; but although thus frugally provided, they did not disdain our more substantial fare; and certainly old Bendurlack had treated us very well. After a short time the scruples of our Mahommedan friends vanished, and—may the name of the Prophet be praised!—they were busily engaged in pledging us dogs of Christians in the sparkling juice of the grape; in fact every one appeared to enjoy himself so much, that there seemed to be no symptoms of departure; and I afterwards learned the reasons why

286

BEAUTIFUL VALLEY.

our trusty guides were so reluctant to quit their temporary bivouac.

At last we fairly got under weigh, and after getting over a considerable woody descent, emerged into a beautiful open plain, or rather, very broad valley, but which extended its rich pasture and waving barley-fields as far as the eye could reach towards the westward. Along this level and rich plain we travelled till about five in the evening, when our escort came to a stand, informing us we should not be able to reach Tangiers that night, and expressing a wish to sleep at a small village, about two miles off the road.

Young Butler, however, said that this was their usual manœuvre to get a night's quarters on the villagers, from whom they extort rice, fowls, etc.; he added that we should be obliged to sleep on the floor, amidst swarms of vermin, and strongly recommended us to push on, which we accordingly did, leaving the soldiers behind; however, as they were responsible for