THE MOORISH CAMP.

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Moors keeping constantly a force round the place, it may be considered as in a perpetual state of siege, and the Spaniards cannot venture beyond their own lines.

We went round all the barracks, hospital, etc., of which we made a complete inspection. In the evening I met the governor, and thanking him for his civility, requested he would allow us to pass next morning the Spanish lines, and visit the Moorish camp. He said we might please ourselves, but that he would recommend us not to try the experiment, as the chances were against our ever coming back again.

Nevertheless, next morning at sunrise saw us issuing from the Spanish lines, and making our approaches towards the Moorish pickets, we were soon ordered to come to a standstill; and as they had uncommonly long rusty firelocks, and seemed, moreover, very ready to use them, we thought it best to obey. I had, however, picked up a few words of Arabic, and one of our antagonists happening to speak a

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MOORISH COMMANDANT.

little Spanish, by the help of half-a-dollar, I induced him to take a message to the commandant of the Moors, saying we were English officers, (we had taken care to put on our red jackets,) and should feel obliged by his allowing us to visit what they call the seraglio: this is merely an old ruined fort, about a mile and a half distant, and the head-quarters of the Moorish camp. He came back in about an hour, saying the alcalde would be down himself; and accordingly we saw, on the summit of a neighbouring hill, a horseman surrounded by Moors, one of whom was despatched for us.

On approaching, we made our salaam, said the English and Moors had always been brothers, that I had come to pay his highness a visit, and begged his acceptance of a small pocket compass. He looked at the article, did not seem half pleased, as he said he was not a sailor, but told us we might go to his castle, whither we followed him, and found it a most miserable place. He got there first

and received us in state, seated on a heap of cushions. I hinted to one of my companions, that as the old fellow did not appear overpleased with the compass, it would be as well if he gave him a very handsome swordknot he had on, which he presented with so much grace, that the old savage was quite overcome, and ordered for us some cake and a kind of cheese, which we did justice to after our walk; and our friendship was further cemented, by finding out that he was a cousin of old Hadge, our Tetuan acquaintance. We returned to Ceuta, to the astonishment of our Spanish friends, who said they never expected to see us again; got on board the felucca by one o'clock, and at four landed safely at Gibraltar, delighted with our trip, which had exceeded all our expectations.

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A BULL-FIGHT

CHAPTER XXXII.

A bull-fight at Algesiras-" Novillos"-" Chulos"A smutty "Picador"-The "Bandarilleros"-The Matador-Death-Female humanity in Spain.

Gibraltar, June 4, 1838.

I WILL here venture to describe a bull-fight at Algesiras, the first amusement of the kind I ever witnessed, and which at the same time was not a bull-fight: this will require some explanation. The bulls exhibited were merely

66

novillos," or youngsters, and intended more for practice in the arena than anything else; in consideration of which, out of five or six, the spectators were contented with the death of one only; for some blood on these occasions must be spilt, or else the audience, particularly the ladies, are not satisfied. The

place for the bull-fight is exactly like one of the amphitheatres seen in Italy, with this dif ference, that it is constructed of wood, and, when filled, presented an enlivening spectacle.

About five o'clock, three or four men, handsomely dressed in short jackets, breeches, and white stockings, entered the arena, each carrying in his hand a flowing scarf, of the most brilliant colours: these persons are called the "Chulos." A large door was immediately thrown open, and in bounded a fine young bull, about two years old, with all the activity of an antelope. He stopped for a minute in the centre of the arena, as if stupified with the unexpected sight and noise; for thunders of applause rang from every side. It was, however, but a momentary stop; he made a rush at one of the gentlemen in the breeches,-who shook his scarf in the bull's face, jumped out of the way, and another took his place; and it was truly astonishing to see the activity with which they evaded the fury of the brute;-running before him, whilst the scarf kept streaming behind, at which the