ÆäÀÌÁö À̹ÌÁö
PDF
ePub

342

DISGRACEFUL SPORT.

in this caballero's estimation, a decided bargain!

Were there anything manly in the sport, were common "fair play" given to the different parties engaged, it might, perhaps, be excusable. For instance, were the picador, armed with a sharp spear and mounted on a spirited horse, to encounter alone the furious bull, it would undoubtedly be a sportsmanlike thing to slay him in a deadly tilt. But, when every chance is in favour of the biped, every disadvantage against the bull, and when the horses, as well as the latter, are brought in to a certain, and often cruel death, these shamble scenes are an amusement only worthy of butchers, and, as I before said, a disgrace to civilized society.

ALGESIRAS.

348

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Algesiras and Los Barrios-Spanish acquaintance and manners-An unusual beauty-Compliments and professions-Words an unsubstantial repast-Poverty-Bridge at Los Barrios-The cura and church-The sierras above Los Barrios-Fine view -Carrying double-A novel hunt.

Gibraltar, June 13, 1838.

WE went early to Algesiras, to make some morning calls, having managed, somehow or other, to pick up a few acquaintances there; amongst others, the brother-in-law of my friend's first partner at the San Roque masked ball, a Captain A, the secretary of the Governor of Algesiras, and a gentlemanly fellow, who speaks French fluently, and has on many occasions been very civil to me.

344

SPANISH ETIQUETTE.

Amongst other Spanish friends here, are the ladies of Colonel's family; the "hija," the fair V, is a very fine girl, of a style of beauty rather unusual in Andalusia, having the raven locks of the daughters of the south, with the most melting dark blue eyes; she, however, accounts for this peculiarity, by tracing her descent from a family originally coming from the mountains of the north of the Peninsula.

The lessons I received at Grenada have initiated me into the mysteries of Spanish society, which, with perhaps a little more profusion of compliments and professions, is much the same as in the rest of the civilized world. Talk the language; praise Spain and the Spaniards; tell the women they are "brujas" and "echiseras;"* bow gracefully to them; never venture to shake hands or offer an arm to a lady, except in ascending or descending a flight of steps; you cannot go wrong,—and

*Witches and enchantresses.

SPANISH LIBERALITY.

345

on taking up your hat, and making the usual farewell salutation of " Que ustedes lo pasen bien,"* the lady of the mansion will undoubtedly tell you that her house, and everything it contains, are at your service.

Never were people more profuse in their offers and professions than are the Spaniards; but their liberality rests here; for, whether it be not the custom of the country, or is attributable to poverty, from all my acquaintances I have never had anything more substantial than words; except, by the bye, in the case of old Colonel Mauri, at Grenada, and the officers of the regiment at Ceuta. Yes, there is another instance, in which a sort of liberality is exercised, which is unknown to us: if a Spaniard accompanies a stranger to any place of public amusement, he will insist on franking him in, and feels offended if you persist in refusing his offer. I believe, however, that their (what we call) parsimony, as

* "That you may pass it well"--the it, probably, relating to your time.

[blocks in formation]

far as hospitality is concerned, arises principally from want of means; money, if you may judge from their style of living, being an extremely scarce article amongst them. The only expense, in which even the more wealthy appear to indulge, are their servants and equipages. Their houses are scarcely furnished; they do not entertain; and I understand (for, not having ever had my feet under Spanish mahogany, I am unable to speak from experience,) that in their family meals they are frugal to a degree at which an Englishman's stomach would be very apt to rebel; and it is therefore, perhaps, just as well that it is never in danger of being subjected to the ordeal.

But now a word or two about "Los Barrios," to which, after "womanizing" at Algesiras, we proceeded on our trusty steeds. Los Barrios lies about five miles to the north-west of the bay, up a broad and fertile valley, watered by the Parmoni river, which is crossed about a mile from the town over a bridge, partly destroyed by the inhabitants in 1808, on the

« ÀÌÀü°è¼Ó »