42

SIR GEORGE DON.

Sir George Don not only made the "Rock" what it is at this day, by planting the gardens, forming excellent communications in every direction and by which you can ride up to the highest pinnacle of its cloud-cradled summit; but he extended his improvements far into Spain, which, I am told, is indebted to him for the capital road now running through the Cork wood as far as the convent of the Almoraïma, to an extent of ten or twelve miles.

Trip to Algesiras-Spanish officer-A Spanish dinner -Buen Camarados-Ladies at the Balconies-Pull across the Bay-The Spaniard at Mess-Ride along the Beach-Englishmen all "Loco"-St. Michael's Cave-Monkeys-Bulbous plants-The Galleries; or, Excavations along the North front-Cornwallis Hall-St. George's Hall.

Sunday, 5th Nov., 1837.

I NEVER was at any place where the duties were more numerous, and yet, strange to say, I never liked any place better. I will now venture on some account of an excursion I made to Algesiras, on the opposite side of the bay.

Four of us hired a boat, and sailed across; it was about two o'clock in the afternoon when we arrived. The streets at that hour of the

44

A SPANISH OFFICER.

Siesta being all deserted, we hastened to the "fonda," or hotel, where the landlord happened to speak French; and forthwith ordered a good dinner, entirely "à l'Espagnol," having previously made up our minds to swallow garlic, and every other abomination that might be put before us, to be able to say we had had

a real Spanish meal.

At the door we observed a fine-looking young man, in a blue frock coat and epaulettes, whom we learnt from the landlord was a Spanish officer, on his way to join the army at Ceuta, on the coast of Barbary. I sent him my compliments, requesting his company at dinner. The invitation was immediately accepted, and, in the meantime, we sallied out with him to see the lions. I cannot easily say how we managed to keep up the conversation, but, much to the astonishment of the rest of the party, we understood each other perfectly, and were the greatest friends in five minutes.

He took us through the principal streets, the market, the Alameda, and to see an old aqueduct near the town; but as there was not a soul stirring, we hastened back to the

POLITE ATTENTIONS.

45

fonda, where we found our dinner ready. But such a dinner! if there was one dish, there were twenty! First, soup; then boiled beef and cabbage, with radishes; then fish; then another course of meat and stews, followed again by fish; and lastly, lots of fruit; the whole moistened with very pleasant light wines.

Our friend Don something de Silben, ate, talked, and did the honours in great style; but he somehow or other took it into his head that a brother officer of mine, who was one of the company, had eaten nothing. Now my friend happens to have a very good appetite, which the Don would have observed had he not been so completely taken up with his own business; and the former was, moreover, very red in the face with his exertions, both in walking and eating. I told the Spaniolo that the young man had the misfortune to be very timid, as witness his blushes, and never could eat before strangers; whereupon Don swore we should be buen camarados, shoved every dish on the table under the nose of his victim, and said he would leave the room if he did

46

OUR SPANISH FRIEND.

not commence forthwith. I shall never forget the expression of my poor friend's countenance; but there was no remedy, and he was obliged to eat a second dinner, at the risk of choking, abusing me all the time. After dinner, when the wine was being circulated, I asked my new acquaintance if he would come over to Gibraltar with us? to which he immediately consented, but said he wished us before we went to see some of the Spanish señoritas; and as it was now the cool of the evening, there was a tolerable display of beauty taking their daily exercise by sitting at the balconies.

We at last got on board; the wind failed, and we were obliged to pull the whole way, during which our Spanish friend, although he shewed his abilities in singing, proved himself no rower he insisted on taking an oar, caught a crab, and tumbled head over heels into the bottom of the boat. We landed in time to take him to our mess, with which he appeared much delighted, and was at last safely brought to anchor for the night on a mattress in one of the barrack rooms.

Next morning, as several of the officers were