last, which ends on the edge of the hem, is 10 inches The extremities of the galloons are turned under so as to form a point. At the bottom of the upper skirt there are three rows of galloons which run round it, but leave an interval of about two inches between them and the galloons that form the sides. The hem is plain rather more than 3 inches deep. The second skirt has a plain hem 5 inches wide, surmounted by three rows of galloons without interruption.

opening on the inside of the arm where the frills join the edge; trimmed to match the skirt, and finished with bows of ribbon at the top of the frills, on the inside the arm. This is termed "Le Ruche," and is exceedingly beautiful for a light gauze, barege, or muslin, as its folds fall with easy elegance, showing to advantage a finely molded arm. It is also applicable for silk, as the opening in the inside the arm displays the rich embroidery of the undersleeve; as also the rich bracelets worn in full dress. Evening dresses made in tulle, illusion, crape, barege, tissue, and the finest muslin are worn, also some elegant skirts of lace over satin, the sides looped with a bunch of fruit and DRESS TOILET FOR A YOUNG LADY.-Hair raised in puffed terial the skirt is trimmed with three flounces having the flowers, are very beautiful and novel; for very light mabands a l'antique, and separated in two rolls on the head, appearance of three separate skirts. Low necks and short which meet the bandeaux behind under a bow of pink rib- sleeves are universally worn for evening dress. The bon. Muslin fichu, with embroidered insertions and trim-fall of rich lace with a very fine puffing, at the head; the sleeves are fancifully trimmed; some are formed of a deep ming. This fichu, low in the neck, crosses at the waist in lace may fall loosely to the elbow, or is festooned with front and forms a rounded pelerine behind. The edge of knots of ribbon, bunches of fruit, or sprays of flowers; the front of the dress is sometimes formed of horizontal rows the neck is trimmed with a lace ruche; the bottom is borof puffs, edged with some fancy trimming running from dered with an embroidered insertion, which is covered the shoulder to the waist before. Another very pretty over half its width by a festooned trimming embroidered and fanciful article now in favor, is a basque made in in spots. The trimming, diminishing down to the waist, which is ornamented with tasseled buttons, or buttons plain black net, fitting the form easily and closed in front, crosses under a bow of pink ribbon No. 40, with long with bugles or jets depending; the skirt should fall easily ends. From the crossing, under this bow, proceed two over the hips, and is trimmed with a frill of net of medium depth and fullness, edged by several rows of No. 0 velvet placed in waves; the sleeves are trimmed to correspond. Collars of black net with rows of bugles, and velvet are much worn.

ends composed of a narrow band of plain muslin trimmed with two spotted festooned bands laid on flat The body of the fichu is composed of dead parts, which are obtained by making a broad flat plait with the muslin, then intervals of single muslin, having an embroidered insertion in the middle White muslin dress, ornamented with five graduated flounces festooned and embroidered in spots for half the depth Sleeves composed of two muslin puffs, with a cloche festooned and spotted to match the other trimming. The body is low, square in front, terminated by an insertion of narrow lace; it is gathered at top and at bottom.

Mantillas, both of the shawl and talma form, made of lace and velvet, moire antique, silk and satin, are much worn. Another novelty which seems destined to become a general favorite, is a circular cape, or short cloak of cambric dimity, or Marseilles, the edge trimmed with embroidery, lace, or a frill of the same, edged with a scallop; the shoulder is trimmed with a hood or collar, as suits the fancy. It is easy and cool, which is sufficient to recommend it to the attention of those who combine taste and comfort.

The skirts of very young misses still continue short and much trimmed with tucks and flounces. The skirts are very full, and several have adopted the hoop; the waist is low, exposing the full round shoulders; the sleeves are very short, usually formed of one or two puffs, with a frill or edge corresponding with the trimming of the skirt. For very young misses the sleeves are usually looped on the shoulder with armlets of coral, gold or jewels. Small circular capes of dimity, or Marseilles, with an embroidered edge, are much in favor for the street. Leghorn hats with white or salmon-colored ribbon, with one or two es trich feathers placed at the side, and drooping over the front, are decidedly in taste for the early part of the seaA very becoming dress for young masters is a loose sacque, the skirt slightly full, the body rather tight, confined at the waist by a belt of enameled leather, with a clasp of fanciful device; the sleeves short, full and open, displaying a sleeve of fine cambric, fastened at the wrist by a rounded band The trowsers are of white jean, full, and reach just below the knees, edged with a row of scallops with a simple vine or with muslin needle-work; a sels, the front of white enameled leather; a cloak of emof fancy straw, trimmed with a straw cord and tascap broidered cambric of the color of the sacque or white, finished at the neck with a small collar, completes this charming costume.

son.

NEW YORK FASHIONS.-As the weather continues somewhat warm the most light and airy textures are worn, as gauze, grenadine, barege, also some beautiful patterns of India and China muslins. Some exquisite patterns of silks are beginning to be worn, some with broad, solid stripes divided by a narrow stripe, brocaded with flowers in gorgeous hues; others with narrow stripes in plaid, in colors harmonizing with the broad stripes which they divide. Some elegant pattern dresses in silk, the flounces varying from three to five in number, trimmed by a deep border interwoven in the fabric, and gradually decreasing in depth as they reach the waist, are much in favor for walking or street dresses. The style of waist has not materially changed since our last; indeed, the plain corsage, high on the shoulder, and moderately high at the throat, closed in front with tasseled buttons, or bows of ribbon, is so becoming to most figures, that we think it will not soon be superseded. For light summer fabrics, There has been a slight change both in the form and thin silks, etc., the baby waist gathered, and confined by material of bonnets-the style now in favor being flat or a belt, continue to obtain a decided preference, particu- square on the tip of the crown, instead of the oval or cap shape. Some, however, still adhere to the cap crown. larly with young ladies. The plain corsage is worn, The curtain is still very deep and full, much trimmed, or slightly pointed or heart shaped, the bodice moderately it is formed of alternate rows of ribbon, straw, velvet and lace; black velvet bands, with small straw buttons, are long and rounded; for drooping shoulders bertelles are very much worn; the front is still very small, and seems much worn, reaching from the front across the shoulder to project a little more in the center; the inside is ornato the center of the back, trimmed according to the fancy mented with a blonde ruche, with dark spots or rows deliof the artiste or wearer. Fringe, lace, or one or more cately shading through it, clusters of fruit and sprays of rows of scolloped ribbon with a heading of bugle gimp, or flowers, mingled with the bright scarlet of the holly berry and the deep green of the ivy and grass, together with several rows of very narrow black velvet ribbon, are favor- some deep colors in velvet leaves, forming a rich and beauite trimmings for the season. Another style of trimming tiful contrast; the outside is trimmed with fruits, vines much in use for basques, mantillas, etc., is the fringed and leaves of the most gorgeous hues placed low at the guipure lace which is at once elegant, graceful and re- sides and falling over the crown, partially concealing, and, cherche. The skirts are still worn very full and univers- at the same time, giving an air of grace which it is imposally flounced; the hoops are gradually becoming broader,sible to describe. The most brilliant colors of blue, scarthe length is much the same: just reaching the floor atlet, green, brown, gold and amber, mixed with fancy the sides and trailing one or two inches behind. The deep straw, spotted with black or colored chenille, velvet and flowing sleeve, formed with puffs, and frills trimmed to lace, are usually the foundation of a fashionable hat. correspond with the skirt, are generally in favor; a new Some elegant chenille feathers in black and other colors and very pretty style of sleeve, formed of three frills, are novelties and much in favor.

United States Magazine.

NOVEMBER, 1856....

agents used as prime movers. Hero of Alex-for boats. Captain Savery, an Englishman, has andria, who lived about one hundred and twenty the honor of constructing the first actual workyears before Christ, has left us the description ing steam engine, for which he received a patof a machine, in which a continued rotary mo-ent in 1698. It was, however, a crude and tion was imparted to an axis by a blast of steam impracticable affair, owing to the danger of issuing from lateral orifices in arms placed at explosion from the high pressure of the steam right angles with it. Other writers of remote that was used, and from the enormous waste of antiquity make mention of various experiments, heat by unnecessary condensation. Several inall of which confirm the fact that, in a measure, genious men now turned their attention to the some of the qualities of steam were understood. improvement of the steam engine, with a view About the beginning of the seventeenth cen- to reduce the consumption of fuel, which was tury, a French engineer, De Caus, invented a found to be so immense as to preclude its use, machine by which a column of water might be except under very favorable circumstances. In raised by the pressure of steam confined in the 1705, Thomas Newcomen, a blacksmith or ironvessel above the water to be elevated; and in monger, and John Cawley, a plumber and 1629 Branca, an Italian philosopher, contrived glazier, patented their atmospheric engine, in a plan of working several mills by a blast of which condensation was effected by the effusion steam against the vanes. From the descriptions, of cold water upon the external surface of the however, which have been left us of these con- cylinder, which was introduced into a hollow trivances, it does not appear that their projec- surrounding casing. Having accidentally obtors were acquainted with those physical prop-served that an engine worked several strokes erties of elasticity and condensation on which with unusual rapidity without the supply of the power of steam, as a mechanical agent, de-condensing water, Newcomen found, on exampends. In 1663 the celebrated Marquis of Wor-ining the piston, a hole in it, through which the cester described, in his Century of Inventions, an water, poured on to keep it air-tight, issued in apparatus for raising water by the expansive the form of a little jet, and instantly condensed force of steam alone. The next name to be the steam under it. This led him to abandon mentioned in the progressive history of the in- the casing and to introduce a pipe, furnished vention of the steam engine is that of Denis with a cock, into the bottom of the cylinder, by Papin, a native of France, who, being banished which the water was supplied from a reservoir. from his country, was established Professor of Newcomen's engine required the constant atMathematics at the University of Marburgh by tendance of some person to open and shut the the Landgrave of Hesse. He first conceived regulating and condensing valves, a duty that the important idea of obtaining a moving power was usually intrusted to boys, called cock-boys. by means of a piston working in a cylinder, It is said that one of these boys, named Hum(1688,) and subsequently (1690) that of pro- phrey Potter, wishing to join his comrades at ducing a vacuüm in the cylinder by the sudden play, without exposing himself to the conse condensation of steam by cold. In accordance quences of suspending the performances of the with these ideas he constructed a model, con- engine, contrived, by attaching strings of proper sisting of a small cylinder, in which was in- length to the levers which governed the two serted a solid piston, and beneath this a small cocks, to connect them with the beam, so that quantity of water; and applying heat to the it would open and close the cocks as it moved bottom of the cylinder, steam was generated, up and down with the most perfect regularity. the elastic force of which raised the piston. By this simple contrivance the steam engine, The cylinder was then cooled by removing the for the first time, became a perfect machine. fire, when the steam condensed and became It was in repairing a working model of a again converted into water, thus creating a steam engine on Newcomen's principle, for the vacuüm in the cylinder, into which the piston lectures of the Professor of Natural Philosophy was forced by the pressure of atmospheric air. at the University of Glasgow, that James Watt There is, however, no evidence that Papin car-directed his mind to the prosecution of those ried this or any other machine into practical inventions and beautiful contrivances by which use before machines worked by them had been constructed elsewhere. Yet, as the inventor of the safety valve, (without which the steam engine could not exist,) his name will ever be remembered. He has also the credit of being the first person who suggested steam as a motive power

he gave to senseless matter an almost instinctive power of self-adjustment, with more precision of action than belongs to any animated being, and which has rendered his name celebrated throughout the civilized world. At the time of which we speak, Newcomen's engine

was of its last and most approved construction. gift that seemed to be hereditary in his family. Still, however, it contained but the mere rudi- In 1763 he left the University and removed into ments, the undeveloped germs of that wonder- town, intending to practice as a civil engineer; ful and more perfect triumph of genius and but Professor Anderson's model of Newcomen's mechanical skill-the steam engine of Watt. engine begot a germ in Watt's mind, its matuWe had intended to give a detailed account of rity had already commenced, and it finally several of the successive improvements of Watt propagated those ideas respecting the use of in perfecting his engine, but are obliged to con- steam power which have led to such gigantic fine our article to a limited space, and must consequences. His first patent is dated June 5, therefore omit them. 1769, which Parliament, in 1775, extended for twenty-five years, in consideration of the national importance of the inventions and the difficulties and expense of introducing them to public notice. In 1774 Watt removed from Glasgow to the vicinity of Birmingham, where he entered into partnership with Mr. Bolton, in which connection he carried on his improvements in the steam engine, which were not the only valuable inventions that resulted from his ingenious and industrious brain. He died at his house at Heathfield, in the County of Stafford, on the 25th of August, 1819, at the advanced age of eighty-four, after having realized an ample fortune and most distinguished civic honors, the well-earned reward of his industry and ability.

Next to its connection with the printing press, the application of steam to locomotion is among its most valuable benefits to our race, and must be considered one of the peculiar characteristics of the present age. The first of these latter adaptations was in its introduction to the propulsion of boats. The use of the paddle and the oar reach back beyond tradition; they are found with the most barbarous and untutored savage, the lowest type of the human family, and the perfection they obtained even there, shows their great importance in the economy of man. The steps were gradual, but sure, from the hollow log, propelled by a rude paddle, up to the rowing vessels of the time of the Phonecians, who far surpassed all other nations of antiquity in navigation, adventuring far out to sea, and planting colonies at distant points, subsequently to be rivalled by Greece and Rome. Succeeding the oar, the paddle-wheel seems to have been the next step-of course the power being manual or animal; and next sails, which held the sway for centuries, and even at the present time are second only to steam itself in value.

James Watt was born at Greenock, in Renfrewshire, Scotland, on the 19th of January, 1736. He was the descendant of a family the members of which, for several generations, had exhibited no small degree of ability. His early rudiments of education were received in his native town; having, in his youth, manifested a partiality for the practical part of mechanics, he went, in his eighteenth year, to London to obtain instruction as a mathematical instrument maker, but remained there little more than a year, being compelled to return home on account of ill health. When he reached his majority he was appointed instrument maker to the University of Glasgow. His ability in his profession is thus complimented by M. Arago: "There are still in existence some small instruments which were at this time made entirely by Watt's own hand, and they are of very exquisite workmanship. I may add that his son has To Robert Fulton belongs the imperishable lately shown me some of his first designs, and honor of the invention and construction of the that they are truly remarkable for the delicacy first successful steamboat. We have no wish and precision of the drawing. It was not with- nor intention to detract a single iota from the out reason that Watt used to speak with com- merits of the many master minds that, for placency of his manual dexterity." This was a nearly a whole century, were directed to the