10

THE CHALDEAN CHURCH.

the arm of our temporal might, and efface the shame the bitterness of our fellows; shed over them that quiet which God has so abundantly granted us, and give them time to breathe, to live, to recover?

Here is a Church into which though, through lapse of time, ignorance, and confusion, some errors may have crept, we find pure and untainted by most of the dogmas so plentifully found in all Oriental sects; we find an antient people and an antient faith, without contact, professing nearly as we profess. What proof can we show with greater pride than this, that, as far as human changes allow, we have returned to the Apostolic Christian faith of the early fathers? Few Churches have extended their faith more actively than these Nestorians. From China to Cyprus; among the wilds of Tartary; amongst the jungles of India, they restored and saved the southern Indian Church, which, on the death of MacGeorge, fell into great disorder (in the sixth or seventh century); and a better knowledge of the countries would probably trace co-religionists amongst the millions of Chinese and in the southern parts of Hindostan. Twenty-five metropolitan bishops, extended over a fourth of the world, once acknowledged the Chaldean patriarch

ANTIQUITY OF THE CHALDEAN CHURCH. 11

as the head of the Eastern Church: the Mussulmans, the Tartars, reigned, and they have become broken and dispersed. Tamerlane out-did his own renown in cruelty and blood, and they became a few persecuted outcasts in the inaccessible mountains of Koordistan and the borders of the lake of Oroomiah. Those few who remained true to their faith on the plains, fell before the persecutors, not one whit more scrupulous of their own faith, and but few now remain in their father's faith. Great interest was excited by their sufferings in England. Fellow Christians, let not this subside; it is a great, a good deed, to save, to help, to protect those we ought to love as brothers. Though now it may be hoped that they will be allowed to breathe in peace and cultivate the rugged mountains they inhabit; still, much may be done, and it is to be feared that others exist dispersed amidst the Koords who are still in the depths of bondage and endure a slavery destructive of every good quality they possess." *

* Mr. Layard will probably write an account of our joint journey from Mosul to Lake Van, through these heretofore unvisited districts; and to him I leave the task he is so well competent to perform, of describing the condition of the unknown Christian districts we found hid away for ages among the mountains. The journey was one of great interest.

12

TENT OF MR. LAYARD.

Several other huts stood about, occupied by servants, cook-house, &c.; and then, on a parched, dusty stubble, we reached Mr. Layard's tent. My own stood by its side, and another or two near. At a distance of some two hundred yards S.E. of us stood the black tents of the Arabs; for as the workmen had their wives, relations, and several others with them, this formed a large encampment, and, thanks to their regular gains and protection from exaction, they were in a flourishing condition. They were a portion of a tribe called the Jebour, one widely spread, and sometimes nomad, at others sedentary, and often labourers in the fields. The tribe may be found scattered in divisions down to Bagdad. This division had been in a wretched state of poverty; their wages for work on the Mound were by no means high, yet they are now wealthy as compared with others. How plainly this speaks as to the misrule and incompetence of the government, and the capabilities of the people, if allowed to develope themselves.

INCONVENIENCE OF TRAVELLING.

13

CHAPTER II.

Frequent Visitation of furious Gales-Their Effects on the TentsExcavations by Mr. Layard described--Reflections caused by the Monuments-Arrival of Southern Pilgrims on their way to Mecca— How other Pilgrims now reach their Destination-Further Excavations by Mr. Layard-The Well of Thisbe-How the raised Monuments verify and illustrate the Language of the Prophets-How far Mussulmans are addicted to the drinking of Wine-Legend of Mahomet respecting Wine-Two hostile Tribes-The Tai TribeIts Antiquity-Pride of the old Sheik-Arab Muskets describedPay-day on the Mound--Another furious Gale-Start on an Excursion to Nimroud-House of Mr. Layard there-Present State of the Villages - Excavations at Tel Nimroud - Imposing and solemn Effect of some of the excavated Figures-Prepare to depart for Koordistan.

WE were frequently visited during my stay by furious gales from the N.N.W., hot as fire, of great violence, and heralded by clouds of burning dust, which penetrated everywhere. Paper dried and curled; ink stagnated. Our dinner on these occasions was as much earth as anything, and the first puff generally swept away most of our Europeanbuilt tents, carrying their remains far to leeward, and leaving a confused wreck of prized property all about. Meanwhile, the wretched, shaky-looking tents of the Arabs stood unharmed. It was very

VOL. IL

C

hard; the neatly-stretched canvas, the carefullyadjusted ropes, all through one blast-and away they went, hurting one's pocket, one's feelings, and one's pride. The wind chops round to N.E., and then gradually dies away.

It was, however, worth while seeing the wild gestures and excited energy of the Arabs. Mr. Layard's kavass, who usually lounged away the day torpid, would dart up in sudden activity, rush down into the trenches, and there, with frantic gestures, recount the disaster. Up rushed the Arabs, the wind roaring, masses of sand sweeping by. They yelled, they shouted, holding and tugging at the ropes to keep the huge masses on their after-legs.

From the time of my arrival here I seldom visited the town, frequenting constantly the trenches and the excavations. Descending a few rudely cut steps, a narrow passage leads to one of the regular excavations; these were long galleries, some ten or more-perhaps fifteen feet high, and four or five broad, with the earth cut in an arch overhead, so as to render it less likely to fall in. Every fifteen or twenty feet a hole was cut in the top, open to the surface; up this, as the excavations had pro