184

BAJAZET CONQUERED.

some half million of human beings.

Badazet, with true Ottoman insolence, moved to the attack, and awaited by the walls of Sevas his enemy and his fate. He accused Timour of slowness, of fear, and of ill faith, till he woke from his dream to find the mighty scourge in his rear, and half his dominions ravaged. Badazet hastened to Angora, whose plains were henceforth memorable for the fight, and his own disgrace. He survived but nine months, though treated with honour and tended by skilful physicians.

DEPARTURE FROM ERZEROUM.

185

CHAPTER IX.

Departure from Erzeroum- Description of Guest Houses-Ilijah— Mineral Springs there-Baths-Awkward Intrusion-The Ladies alarmed-Fury of the Old Lady-Persian Acquaintance-Change in the Aspect of the Country-Origin of the term Giaour-Philosophy of my Persian Friend-Eski Alma to Bairbout-Scenery on the way-Town of Bairbout-Its Bazaars-Bairbout to Balahor-Party of Ladies-Their Claim on my Hospitality-Their Reception of me in the Evening-New Cook-How he justifies his bad Cookery— Caravan of Donkeys-Evening Scene-Night Adventure-Renewal of the Contest on the following day--More of the Philosophy of my Friend the Persian-Beautiful Scene-The Surme Sar-River of Trebizond-Sultan Mahmoud and the Dari Begs.

AT last the kind attention of the English Balious and his people restored me, and I again set forth on my road, though now no more as a young cavalier, but on a well-stuffed pad, supported by cushions, and wrapt in warm attire. The consul and another English gentleman accompanied me some distance, and then, with kind wishes for the prosperity of my journey, galloped back to their homes.

The road lay over a noble plain, bounded on all sides by mountains, which, though by no means lofty, were covered with snow, which had fallen

186

MINERAL BATHS OF ILIJAH.

within the last few days.

Villages were scattered

about, corn stacks almost burying them. There were no boundaries between the fields, so corn land ran into meadows or vegetables, giving the whole a monotonous appearance. Three hours brought me to Ilijah, where I took up my quarters in the guest house. These houses are found through the whole of Asia Minor, in almost every village, and generally consist of a large, low room, one corner of which is raised about a foot, and railed off, thus constituting a room, while the rest is occupied by cattle and horses. A fireplace is generally the only furniture, however; as travellers in the East carry with them a whole house. They are very good places to lodge in, unless the lodger is sensitive about insects, with which his luggage will become filled.

Ilijah contains hot mineral baths. There is a wall of enclosure built round the principal of the sources; but outside are several smaller ones that bubble up in a pool, and several minor springs burst through the ground near. The people appear to appreciate these, and when I visited them on the following morning, numbers of people were there; some, who had bathed,

ILIJAH TO MEGMANSOOR.

187

quietly resting, others bathing, others waiting. I walked to the enclosure, and, disregarding a sheet hung at the door, passed in. Shrieks! shrieks! and then ploof! ploof! like frogs-I had most insolently burst into a bevy of ladies.

The curses liberally heaped upon me by the dames might have expiated a more premeditated offence: one old lady followed me, furious. "What did you enter for, Giaour?"-" Not to see you, for which I would not run a risk, while there are old and plain women to be seen everywhere." The men seemed rather amused, which I was not when she began throwing stones, at least. However, we walked off, when the husband came and claimed damages.

After waiting till evening, for it was Sunday, I started-Ilijah to Megmansoor. Two Mussulmans on the road to Stamboul, and a Persian joined company; the latter a most amusing companion. He soon found out all particulars, more especially whether I drank wine or not. Road still over the plain most of the transport here is done by carts-platforms of wood, with a few upright poles round it, the wheels two thick solid pieces of wood, bound with iron. This is done at Erzeroum,

188

ORIGIN OF THE WORD GIAOUR.

with Russian iron. The axle is fast to the wheels, so the two move round together, the cart resting on it, and the axle revolving in two strong blocks, one on either side. The platform is narrower before than behind; a pole rests on the yoke, where a peg holds it: oxen draw it. Each cart has a bag of grease slung by the side, with which they frequently anoint the points where the cart rests on the axle.

The villages are now no longer caves, and though the inhabitants seem to have an inclination to bury their houses, they are of a much superior style to those further south. Megmansoor is a pretty village situated at the foot of the mountains which form the northern boundary of the plain. There is a neat, new mosque, the greater part of the population being Mussulmans. The railing of the room was broken, and the calves made incursions on me, but I slept well.

The following note in Gibbon gives the origin of that term so constantly in the mouth of the Turk-Giaour. "The opprobrious name which the Turk bestows on the infidels is expressed Kaßoop by Ducas, and Giaour by Leunclavius and the moderns. The former term is derived by