278 VISIT TO THE EMEER BESHIR, AND

on; the boat load of picnickers bent to the oar ; all life went on just as if eight hundred poor unprepared mortals had not been hurled up here and there on the beach-all lifeless.

"As shaken on their restless pillow,

Their heads heave with the heaving billow :
That head whose motion is not life,

Yet feebly seems to menace strife."

The bodies were being collected and ranged on the arsenal wharf for their friends to claim. Some said the whole was a conspiracy to blow up the Sultan; others, with more probability, that the crew had smoked a pipe in the magazine, and for a wonder it had caught fire-I say for a wonder, for the Turks are fools: while they are afraid to do necessary things with powder, &c., they will, through carelessness, smoke over it.

I paid a visit one day to the Emeer Beshir, a detenu at Constantinople; he was living in a small house about an hour out of the city. A Frenchman who frequently visited him was my introducer. The priest who usually lives with him was absent, which rendered my visit more agreeable. He resided in a small house apart, and had

CONVERSATION WITH HIM.

279

gone to town on business. The house of the Emeer was low and out of repair; the room he received us in literally darkened with the smoke from his never-ceasing chibouk. At first he received me, knowing me for an Englishman, with a distance almost amounting to incivility, and even omitted the usual courtesies of eastern hospitality. This drove me to thinking of retiring, but as I looked at the venerable old man, his snow-white beard, the lines hard and deep, of misfortune rather than of time—though he numbered upwards of ninety -I felt how wrong to resent, how ungrateful years not to submit. At last I began to interest him, and he condescended to listen, and ere long we were fast engaged in his own loved mountains, Betaddeen, the Kesrowan, and the neighbouring districts. He unclasped his pipe and offered it me. Abdallah also came in, and, kneeling down, kissed the edge of his robe. He relaxed, and we talked merrily, or rather much; for at times there was a swimming of his keen, quick eye it required many winks to clear.

I knew most of his friends; his henchman,

280

POVERTY OF THE EMEER BESHIR.

Abdel Bey, Carletti, and several others who had been in attendance on him. When the Frenchman, who could not speak (the priest in his visits acting interpreter), rose to go, he insisted on my dining, and we retired to another room, where a poor plain meal was served on pewter, his excessively pretty daughter the only attendant. In the evening we continued our conversation, chiefly on his part, being an exposition of his policy through life; how it was necessity, not will, which had made him act. He adduced one proof which, if true, was good: "They say I taxed and overreigned; if I did, it was to spend on themselves; for look! I, who was a king, a great prince have ten pewter plates and one pipe, worth two piastres. I owe here several small debts, and, on my beard, have not five hundred piastres to pay them." We talked till midnight, and I then returned to find the gates locked, and myself compelled to saunter about till daylight.

DEPARTURE FROM CONSTANTINOPLE.

281

CHAPTER XIII.

Departure from Constantinople-Embark on a Steamer-Destination unknown-My Dog and the Agent-Reason why I was treated with Civility during the Passage-Passengers-Young Turkish Lady and her Grandmother-Death of a Child on board-Heartlessness of its Father-Arrival at Smyrna-Make the Acquaintance of a Jew-His Family Their hopes of the Restoration of their Race-Character and Qualities of Jews in general-Speech of the old Jew concerning Proselytism-Passage granted me by a British Man of WarInscription on the Tomb of Pisistratus-Smyrna, the Birthplace of Homer-Ruined Castle of the Knights-Scio-Its present Appearance-Reflections suggested by it-Samos-Ruins of the Temple of Juno-Antony and Cleopatra-Cos-Esculapius born here-And Apelles-The Painter and the Cobbler-Arrive at Rhodes-Present Government of the Islands-Favour shown by the Porte to Christians-What they may one day become Opinion of Mr. Titmarsh, as to the Quality of Samian Wine.

PERA, and its semi-civilisation, soon tired. It had more than the ordinary ennui of a European city, without any of its gaieties or amusements; all the tedium of the East, without its pleasures. Misseri's was most comfortable; but society there was none, and so, one morning, hearing an Austrian steamer was to start, I resolved to join her fortunes, nor cared to inquire whither she was bound. Carpets,

282

EMBARK FOR SMYRNA.

cushions, nargillehs, pots, saucepans, &c., were bundled into my much-travelled hourges (saddlebags); my bill paid; Abdallah loaded himself with his arms; a whistle to Beder Khan Beg, and, preceded by porters, we descended the hill of Pera to a caique. The bazaar-dogs clustered round, but none ventured to approach my huge canine, who waddled slowly before us.

We were thrown in a lump on the gangway as the vessel was under weigh. A pert little fellow simpered up, and said in Italian, "Sir, that dog must not-in fact, shall not go." "Oh, then, Mr. Agent, there he is; turn him out." This was not easily effected: the agent ordered the captain, the captain the mate, the mate the sailors; but my Koord sat wagging his tail; so the agent went over the side, and the dog quietly took up his position by me, where none seemed to have any wish to disturb him.

The next thing was to inquire whither the vessel was bound. "To Smyrna."

illah, I thought to Trieste," I said.

civilly offered me a boat, to land.

"A hum del

The captain

"Oh, no," I