326

EMBARK FOR CYPRUS.

so, instead of being at breakfast, I found myself on board the Austrian steamer and paddling out of the harbour.

Round went the windmills on the point, round went the paddles in the water, and we were off for Cyprus. The steamer was crowded with passengers, pilgrims, and pleasurists from all nations, who, with their new equipages, leather bright and new, put to shame my travel-stained baggage. However, nothing particular occurred, except a great quarrel with the captain, because I explained an expression made use of to him by a Moslem girl to the lady passengers, at which they laughed, and he looked blue. We also threw over a fish out of humanity, that he had preserved out of curiosity, which raised his wrath to a great extent. We anchored at evening the next day in Larnica: a more dreary place cannot be conceived. The French have just raised a magnificent structure: it would do for a fortress, but it is for the Sisters of Mercy. My stay was short, but sufficient to view the things most worthy of attention. Eothen has repolished the classic memory of this lovely island-the

SAIL FOR BEYROUT.

327

abode of Venus, the property of Cleopatra. + Another steamer carried me and my fortunes on to Beyrout.

* This is hardly correct; though, from the luxury of the inhabitants it was said to be the spot she loved; (see her worship, and the infamous rites practised.) The island was formerly famous for metals. Ovid says:

66

Gravidamque Amathunta metallis."

Copper claimed its name from the island. The Arabs call the island Cobros, not Cyprus.

+ Antony gave the island to Cleopatra, to soothe her jealousy at his marriage with Octavia.

328

THE LEBANON.

CHAPTER XV.

The Foot of the Lebanon-Beyrout-The Inn there changed for the better-Time-tied Travellers off to explore Syria-My own Disinclination to move- -My Departure at last-An Invitation from a Friend-Journey to his House-My Reception there-Visitors of my Friends-Some Account of an old emigrant Farmer-Diurnal Life in the House of my Friend-Idleness, the Offspring of EaseWhether Wine brings out the real Feelings of Men-The Language of Flowers-Turkish Marriages-Character of the Turks and Eastern Christians-Radical Corruption of the Turkish Gevernment— Oppression of the Turkish great, acquiesced in by the Poor-Hospitality of the Arabs-Instances of it-Brummanah-Sanatory Qualities of the Climate of the Lebanon-Beauty of the Eastern Sunrise and Sunset.

OH! with what delight did I watch the first break of day; nor could I regret that the sun was tardy, when he delayed behind those blue and beauteous hills, faint but glorious in the distance. Slowly we ploughed the tranquil ocean, and kept the bright disk on the mountain-top as we advanced to meet him. Now the anchor falls from the bows, and once more emancipated, the foot presses the strand on the borders of the Land of Promise, at the foot of the Lebanon.

ARRIVAL AT BEYROUT.

329

Columbus, when, full of ambition, he leapt on the shores of the New World, did not feel more pleasure than I did, as I sprang amidst a mass of Gimrukgees, Hamahls, dogs, &c., at the Customhouse at Beyrout. Being resolved to give up those foolish things called plans, my path was open to go anywhere. However, an inn was a necessity, so that, taking possession of a room in that of Biancho, at Rais Beyrout, was the present business. The house had grown, from the pretty cottage of "Crescent and Cross" notoriety, into a large straggling building; from its terraces the traveller commands one of the loveliest views in the Lebanon.

The mountains have depth, height, and magnificence, and, each hour, are clothed with varied and beautiful tints; with the deep blue sea before him, groves of mulberries around, while far and near the eye ranges over villas and gardens-the one, white and pretty in their cleanliness; the other, tinted with every shade of verdure. And now began the renewal of old acquaintances: the girls, one had fondled as children, had become, in many

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A PERIOD OF INACTIVITY.

instances, the mothers of a new generation almost as big as themselves, when first known. Some were dead; some gone; time had benefited some; but alas! viciously spited others.

The travellers who had arrived in the same steamer, having arranged, discussed, wavered, feared, and at last, made more solemn preparations than we should need to go to Pedro Paulouski, had started for their fortnight's labour of doing Syria. My servants cursed the inaction and unusual delay of their master. Abdallah was always breaking in upon my quiet reveries by packing saddle-bags or disarranging my papers; Suleiman had sung all his songs, and told of his adventures till he was sick of his own inventions. The hadjee alone was contented; all places were much the same to him, so that he had his hashish.

However, ease, romance and reverie were cut short by finding the pet corner of the divan, the cherished spot, whence the eye could best range over the mountains, was directly under a most wicked leak; so the word was given-once more in the saddle; none asked or knew where ;