38

ABOUT TO START FOR ZAB.

CHAPTER III.

Alarm of Baggage and Servants lost-Their Re-appearance-Preparations for the Tour-Departure from Nimroud-Offerings by the Way-Reach the Zab-Besieged by sick Villagers for physical Remedies-Domestic Quarrel in the Village-How it was maintained, and its Result-Junction of the Zab with the Tigris-Visit from the Sheik Abd-er-Rahman-His Entertainment-Negoub-Description of it-Attempt to examine the Outer Face of a Rock TunnelArab Attendant-His Character and Peculiarities-His Exhortation to Patience, and personal Exemplification of that Virtue-How far the Prophet is obeyed as to Cleanliness-Visit to the Convent St. Hhodder Elias—Its Church-Inhospitable Christian Arabs-Measurement of Time by the Arabs--Difference of Opinion between a Turk and a Persian concerning Time-Distance, as calculated by Time in the East.

THE sun had just driven me in from my wanderings; the coffee had been duly imbibed, and my first nargilleh was in full force, when as I began lecturing Mousoulee on the folly of drinking, nay, even on the heinousness of the crime when his so doing deprived me of liquor, the door was darkened, a bright boar-spear thrust in, and the Doctor of the expedition followed, dressed rather for comfort than for show. He announced the loss of my baggage and servants, and said, having left Mosul at sunset he had journeyed quietly on, now dozing, now walking, when rousing thoroughly

ALARM OF BAGGAGE TENT.

39

he found but one servant and horse with him. Bawling, shots, and search proved vain, and having passed the night in wandering about, he had come on at dawn to inform me of my loss and concert measures for its recovery. At first I was inclined to speak to the heads of the village, who would readily have assisted me with their people, more especially when the aid might yield plunder or excitement to themselves.

The loss was not to be wondered at: the Tai lately had plundering parties out to the north of the Zab, and though sworn friends to the Bey of Nimroud, might not be able to resist so tempting a chance. A little consideration, however, led me to wait, and the event justified me, as before the evening all arrived safely. It appeared that as each servant found he had lost the guide, the road, and the party, he very philosophically laid himself down to sleep, and did not continue the journey till daylight. My party thus re-assembled consisted of six servants and seven horses, five of which carried luggage, with a servant over the load; the other two were superior animals for my own riding.

It was necessary on the trip I had in con

40

MY COMPANIONS ON THE TOUR.

templation to carry provisions of all sorts, as after leaving Nimroud, milk was the only food we should find; rice, and coffee, also, with white sugar as presents for the chiefs; and stores of tobacco for the use of all. Besides my old Syrian servant I had a Tiyari, called Lazer, to load and help, a cook--an old Armenian,-two grooms, Mosulean Christians, and an Abyssinian servant. Among us we spoke a variety of languages, and the whole had arms, wanting but courage to wield them. A couple of Jebour Arabs joined me on their own account, and Awad* forsook his superintendence of the diggers, and, in spite of our warnings, said he should come. Being the overseer of the workmen, and feeling the injury it would do to the progress of the excavations, I remonstrated with him, but he mounted his mare and so cut short my caution. The rest of the day was spent in reading, and in a final walk over the more interesting portions of the Mound. We retired early to our carpets spread in the garden, to be ready to start shortly after midnight.

The Doctor awoke me at the appointed hour, and calling the servants the baggage was packed

*The Arab Awad must be familiar to all readers of Mr. Layard's book.

DEPARTURE FROM NINEVEH.

41

and sent off while we took a hasty meal, and mounting, joined it abreast of the Mound. Here, as at Mosul, it would be interfering with others and profiting by their kindness, were I to enter into speculations with regard to the spot I was now on being the locality mentioned by Xenophon. This I leave to others whose whole talents and research have been applied to the subject. For myself, I passed the Mound and its steeple pyramid, and wound amidst the smaller tels with feelings of awe. The sun poured down its rays with intense force; the plain lay golden with ready harvest before me, and the labourers and Fellaheen Arabs made the place resound with their cries. Yet the eye lingered on those wondrous mounds. Though resolved to return and yet watch by them and see what more they would produce, I felt a foreboding such would not be, and that, as all around, I also must bow to prophecy not to be resisted, and, according to the words of Nahum, flee from her. "And it shall come to pass all they that look upon thee shall flee from thee, and say, Nineveh is laid waste; who will bemoan her?" (Chap. iii. 7.)

The shepherds, as we journeyed on over the plain,

42

OFFERINGS BY THE WAY.

brought a lamb, and stood with it as an offering ; the reaper presented a bundle of newly cut corn; a prettier way of begging, certainly, than the pestering perseverance of more polished climesa way old as the Scripture times, and interesting, as speaking for the immutability of the customs of the East. An Arab was now despatched to Sheik Abd-er-Rahman, the chief of the Aboudar Salman Arabs, to inform him of our expedition and carry to him our good will. We reached the Zab early in the afternoon, here a large and rapid river, and encamped, for protection, near a village of Shemutti Arabs, pitching the tents just on the rise of the bank. The low jungle that belted the river promised abundance of boar, and the village would furnish beaters and milk. The head of the village paid us his respects, and Awad, who knew everybody, brought in all who were fit, according to his notions, to bear us company. The village was a mere collection of bough and reed huts resorted to during the extreme heats of the summer. The news that the great Hakeem Bashi was with me having spread, we were besieged by cases of sickness, real and imaginary all, however, received some advice, and to those that were