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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Residence of the Pasha-Foundation of Mosul-Its Situation-
Its Mode of Communication with the other side of the River
-Reside at the Encampment of Mr. Layard-Tiyari Nestorian
Christians Their Assassination by the Koords-Antiquity of
the Chaldean Christian Church-An Appeal on behalf of those
that yet remain-The Jabour Tribe.
CHAPTER II.
Frequent Visitation of furious Gales-The Effects on the Tents-
Excavations by Mr. Layard described-Reflections caused by
the Monuments-Arrival of Southern Pilgrims on their way to
Mecca-How other Pilgrims now reach their Destination-
Further Excavations by Mr. Layard-The Well of Thisbe-
How the raised Monuments verify and illustrate the Language
of the Prophets-How far Mussulmans are addicted to the
drinking of Wine-Legend of Mahomet respecting Wine-Two
hostile Tribes-The Tai Tribe-Its Antiquity-Pride of the old
Sheik-Arab Muskets Described-Pay-day on the Mound-
Another furious Gale-Start on an Excursion to Nimroud-
House of Mr. Layard there-Present State of the Villages-
Excavations at Tel Nimroud-Imposing and solemn Effect
of some of the excavated Figures -- Prepare to depart for
Kourdistan
PAGE
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13
CHAPTER III.
Alarm of Baggage and Servants lost-Their Re-appearance-
Preparations for the Tour-Departure from Nimroud-Offer-
ings by the Way-Reach the Zab-Besieged by sick Villagers
for physical Remedies-Domestic Quarrel in the Village-How
it was maintained, and its Result-Junction of the Zab with the
Tigris-Visit from the Sheik Abd-er-Rahman-His Entertain-
ment-Negoub-Description ofit-Attempt to examine the Outer
Face of a Rock Tunnel-Arab Attendant -His Character and
Christians-Their Assassination by the Koords-Antiquity of
that yet remain---The Jabour Tribe.
. 1
Alarm of Baggage and Servants lost Their Re-appearance-
Face of a Rock Tunnel-Arab Attendant-His Character and
vi
Peculiarities-His Exhortation to Patience, and personal Exem-
plification of that Virtue-How far the Prophet is obeyed as to
Cleanliness-Visit to the Convent St. Hhother Elias-Its Church
-Inhospitable Christian Arabs-Measurement of Time by the
Arabs-Difference of Opinion between a Turk and a Persian
concerning Time-Distance, as calculated by time in the East. 38
CHAPTER IV.
Reach Bartella-Kindness of the Priest there-Persecution of the
Christians-Want of Privacy in the East-Incessant Visits from
staring Strangers-How a Traveller should comport himself in
the East-Fall from my horse-Take Refuge in a Convent-
Its Renovation by the Bishop-Accommodation there--Kind-
ness of Mr. and Mrs. Badger- What a Traveller in the East
has to expect in the matter of eating and drinking-Food of
the Natives, rich and poor-View from the Convent-Plain
repeopled-Past Ages called up-Destruction of the Convents
by Tamerlane-Strike amongst the workmen-Peculiar Exhor-
tations of the Bishop-Marriage Tests of the Chaldean Girls-
Journey pursued-Two of the Party fall Sick-Cool Retreat--
Complaining Visitors-The Jews and the young Jewess
CHAPTER V.
56
Continued Illness of some of the Party-How Sickness is borne by
Natives of the East-Accompanied by Mr. Layard, start for the
Koord Mountains-Town of Ackra described-The Pasha
deposed by the Sultan-I fall sick-Murder of Professor
Schultz-Scenery on the Journey-Welcome of the Pasha to
Mr. Layard-Arrival at Van-Bitlis Cloth-Bazaars of Van-
Visit the Pasha-Reception by his Hasnedara-Taken worse-
Tacktervan in which I journeyed to the Convent―The Dresses
of the People of Van-Policy of the Porte briefly considered-
Frankish Dress adopted by Turks- "Lebiss Stamboul".
Apartments in the Convent, and partial Recovery-On the
Pleasure and Advantage, or otherwise, of travelling alone . 80
CHAPTER VI.
Misery of being left alone in Sickness-The Hytas-His History—
His Habits and peculiar Cookery-Illusions and Vagaries of
Delirium—Reception by the Hadjee of the truant Servants—
Visit of the Armenian Bishop-Mussulman Fast-How the
Kavass of Mr. Layard kept it-His exploit at Van-Interior of
the Church-The Chapels-Trading in the East-Monks of the
Convent-Armenians-Their good and bad Qualities-Oppro-
brious Terms used by Turks against Christians-Gathering
Harvest Character of the Christians of the East -Return to
Van-Turkish Doctors-Their Carousals-Taken by the Pasha
to his Country-house-His Opinion on the Affairs of Turkey-
Antiquity of Armenia as a Kingdom-Its present Power-
Servant beaten by Soldiers-How that Injury was redressed-
Leave Van-The Hasnedara of the Pasha-How his Memory of
me was to be kept lively-Pass several Villages-The Monastery
of Yavik
.
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CHAPTER VII.
Island of Chifis Kloster-Axbraf-Myriads of Gnats-Abundance
of Aquatic Birds on the Lake-Large Cemetery-Dispute as to
its Occupants between the Hadjee and the Armenian-Re-
flections in Illness-Fascinations of Travel-Spirit of Inde-
pendence it engenders-Variety of Scene-Girl's Advice to me
-The Veil, how regarded in ancient times-Disappointed in
finding Ruins-Serpent Rocks-Visit from two Priests, who
prove Job's comforters-Admiration by Villagers of the Russian
Rule-Autana, the Holy Island-The Old Man and his Legends
-Past Grandeur-Plain of Ardisch-Swarms of Locusts-Tent
pitched in a Prairie-Visit from Isman Bey-His Visit returned
-Furniture of his Tent-Shields and Spears of the Koords--
Mollah of Komdingars-His Gratitude for a trifling Present-
The Hadjee disputes with some Koords-Armenians on Route
for the Frontier-Arrive at Patnos Fight between the Hadjee
and a Christian-Its Cause -How settled-Present Appearance
of Patnos-Its Buildings-Houses at Karakone-Its present
Aspect--Wonder of the ex-Bey that Englishmen should study
-Turkish Confidence in Christians as Guards of the Harem-
Its Cause-Karaka-Difference of Demeanour in Slaves and
Freemen-Arrival at Melasguird
CHAPTER VIII.
The Town of Melasguird-Some Account of an eccentric Dervish
--Kulitcher-People of the Village-Return of Illness-Sus-
picions of Robbery-The Chief detected and punished—Ren-
contre with the Groom-Unveiled Eastern Women-Careless-
ness of Eastern Parents as to the Cleanliness of their Children-
Kindness of Women at a Village-A wretched Altar-piece-
Welcome Verdure-Obstinacy of the Guide-His Dismissal and
Repentance-Boorish Koords-Journey pursued under increas-
ing Illness-Reach Hassan Kaleh-Armen to Khan-At length
reach Erzeroum-Kind Reception by the Consul and his Wife
-Care and Skill of Dr. Birge-My Recovery-Third conjec-
tured Site of Eden-Which was probably the Site?--Domestic
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