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with Mrs. Boswell. I know that she does troublesome to you. I am, dear madam, not love me; but I intend to persist in wish- your most affectionate humble servant, ing her well till I get the better of her.
« SAM. JOHNSON." “ Paris is, indeed, a place very different from the Hebrides, but it is to a hasty tray.
" December, 1775. eller not so fertile of novelty, nor affords
· DEAR MADAM,—Some weeks ago I so many opportunities of remark. I cannot pretend to tell the publick any thing of a
wrote to you, to tell you that I was just place better known to many of my readers
come home from a ramble, and hoped that than to myself. We can talk of it when
I should have heard from you. I am afraid
winter has laid hold on your fingers, and we meet. “I shall go next week to Streatham, from
hinders you from writing. However, let whence I purpose to send a parcel of the somebody write, if you cannot, and tell me • History' every post. Concerning the
how you do, and a little of what has hapcharacter of Bruce, I can only say, that I pened at Lichfield among our friends. I do not see any great reason for writing it ; hope you are all well.
When I was in France, I thought mybut I shall not easily deny what Lord Hailes and you concur in desiring,
self growing young, but am afraid that cold “ I have been remarkably healthy all the
weather will take part of my new vigour journey, and hope you and your family have
from me. Let us, however, take care oi known only that trouble and danger which
ourselves, and lose no part of our health by has so happily terminated. Among all the negligence. congratulations that you may receive, I
I never knew whether you received the hope you believe none more warm or sincere
Commentary on the New Testament, and than those of, dear sir, your most affection
the Travels, and the glasses. ate, 6 SAM. JOHNSON.”
“Do, my dear love, write to me; and do not let us forget each other. This is the
season of good wishes, and I wish you all “ TO MRS. LUCY PORTER, IN LICHFIELD 2.
good. I have not lately seen Mr. Porter 3, “ 16th November, 1775.
nor heard of him. Is he with you? « DEAR MADAM,—This week I came home from Paris. I have brought you a
« Be pleased to make my compliments to little box, which I thought pretty; but I
Mrs. Adey, and Mrs. Cobb, and all my know not whether it is properly a snuff-box,
friends; and when I can do any good, let
me know. I am, dear madam, yours most or a box for some other use. I will send it, when I can find an opportunity. I have
- Sam. Johnson."
affectionately, been through the whole journey remarka
It is to be regretted, that he did not write bly well. My fellow-travellers were the
an account of his travels in France; for as same whom you saw at Lichfield, only we took Baretti with us. Paris is not so fine
he is reported to have once said, that “ he
could write the life of a broomstick 4," so, a place as you would expect. The palaces notwithstanding so many former travellers and churches, however, are very, splendid have exhausted almost every subject for reand magnificent; and what would please mark in that great kingdom, his very accuyou, there are many very fine pictures; but I do not think their way of life commodious thought and illustration, would have pro
rate observation, and peculiar vigour of or pleasant. • Let me know how your health has
duced a wonderful work. During his visit
to it, which lasted about two months, been all this while. I hope the fine summer
he wrote notes or minutes of what he saw. has given you strength sufficient to encoun
He promised to show me them, but I negter the winter. “ Make my compliments to all my greatest part of them has been lost, or per
lected to put him in mind of it; and the friends; and, if your fingers will let write to me, or let your maid write, if it be haps destroyed in a precipitate burning of
his papers a few days before his death, 1 This alludes to my old feudal principle of which must ever be lamented; one small preferring male to female succession.--Boswell. paper book, however, entitled, “ France II.,"
2 There can be no doubt that many years has been preserved, and is in my posses, previous to 1775, he corresponded with this lady, sion. It is a diurnal register of his life and who was his stepdaughter, but none of his earlier observations, from the 10th of October letters to her have been preserved.-BOSWELL. Since the death of the authour, several of John- 3 Son of Mrs. Johnson, by her first husband. son's letters to Mrs. Lucy Porter, written before -BosweLL. 1775, were obligingly communicated to me by 4 It is probable that the authour's memory here the Rev. Dr. Vyse, and are printed in the present
deceived him, and that he was thinking of Steledition.-Malone. (Several others, as has been la's remark, that Swift could write finely upon already stated (ante, vol. i. p. 80), are added to a broomstick.--See Johnson's Life of Swifi.this edition.—Ed.]
to the 4th of November, inclusive, being remains, my readers, I am confident, will twenty-six days, and shows an extraordina- peruse it with pleasure, though his notes ry attention to various minute particulars. are very short, and evidently written only Being the only memorial of this tour that to assist his own recollection.
Tour in “ Tuesday, 10th October.-Wel -In the house of Chatlois is a room furFrance.
saw the école militaire, in which nished with japan, fitted up in Europe. one hundred and fifty young boys are edu- “We dined with Bocage 6, the Marquis cated for the army-They have arms of Blanchetti, and his lady—The sweetmeats different sizes, according to the age-fints taken by the Marchioness Blanchetti, after of wood- The building is very large, but observing that they were dear 7—Mr. Le nothing fine except the council-room- The Roy, Count Manucci, the abbé, the prior, French have large squares in the windows and Father Wilsons, who staid with me, They make good iron palisades — Their till I took him home in the coach. meals are gross 2.
· Bathiani is gone. “We visited the Observatory, a large « The French have no laws for the building of a great height—The upper stones maintenance of their poor—Monk not neof the parapet very large, but not cramped cessarily a priest—Benedictines rise at four; with iron 3-The flat on the top is very ex- are at church an hour and a half; at church tensive; but on the insulated part there is again half an hour before, half an hour after, no parapet—Though it was broad enough, dinner; and again from half an hour after I did not care to go upon it-Maps were seven to eight—They may sleep eight hours printing in one of the rooms.
-bodily labour wanted in monasteries. “ We walked to a small convent of the • The poor taken into hospitals, and misFathers of the Oratory-In the reading- erably kept-Monks in the convent fifteen: desk of the refectory lay the Lives of the accounted poor. Saints.
“ Thursday, 12th October.-We went to “ Wednesday, 11th October.-We went the Gobelins— Tapestry makes a good picto see Hôtel de Chatlois 4, a house not very ture—imitates flesh exactly-One piece with large, but very elegant—One of the rooms a gold ground—the birds not exactly colwas gilt to a degree that I never saw before oured— Thence we went to the king's cabi—The upper part for servants and their net; very neat, not, perhaps, perfect—Gold masters was pretty.
ore-Candles of the candle tree-Seeds “ Thence we went to Mr. Monville's, a -Woods—Thence to Gagnier's 9 house, house divided into small apartments, fur. where I saw rooms nine, furnished with a nished with effeminate and minute elegance profusion of wealth and elegance which I - Porphyry.
never had seen before-Vases Pictures“Thence we went to St. Roque's church, The dragon china—The lustre said to be which is very large–The lower part of the of crystal, and to have cost 3,5001.—The pillars incrusted with marbleThree chap- whole furniture said to have cost 125,0001. els behind the high altar; the last a mass of — Damask hangings covered with pictures low arches—Altars, I believe, all round. -Porphyry—This house struck me-Then
“We passed through Place de Vendôme, we waited on the ladies to Monville's a fine square, about as big as Hanover- Captain Irwin with us 1 Spain—County square-Inhabited by the high families towns all beggars-At Dijon he could not Louis XIV. on horseback in the middle 5. “ Monville is the son of a farmer-general
6 [Madame Du Bocage. See post.--Ed.)
? (Johnson seems to suggest, that it would have 1 (Alluding, probably, to the fine grilles so been better bred not to have eaten what was frequent in France. He had, probably, just seen dear ; but the want of good-breeding (if any, that of the Hôtel des Invalides, which is one of which would depend on the context) was in althe finest.-Ed.)
luding to the dearness, and not in eating what 2 (The contrary has been the general opinion; was on the table.--Ed.] and Johnson was certainly a bad judge in that 8 [Who the Abbé was does not appear. The point, if he believed that his own taste was deli- two latter gentlemen were probably members o cate.-Ed.)
the English Benedictine convent.-
ED.) 3 [There was neither iron nor wood originally 9 [Perhaps Gagny, Intendant des Finances, who used in any part of the building. An iron_rail had a fine house in the Rue de Varennes.-Ed.] was afterwards added to the great stairs.—ED.) 10 The rest of this paragraph appears to be a
4 [This seems to be a mistake; probably for minute of what was told by captain Irwin.--Bosthe Hôtel de Chatelet.-Ed.)
WELL. (And is therefore marked as quotation. 5 [Of one block.--Ed.]
find the way to Orleans-Cross roads of criminal-Queries on the Selette This France very bad—Five soldiers-Woman building has the old Gothic passages, and -Soldiers escaped— The colonel would not a great appearance of antiquity-Three lose five men for the death of one woman hundred prisoners sometimes in the gaol. -The magistrate cannot seize a soldier but “Much disturbed; hope no ill will be 7. by the colonel's permission-Good inn at ** In the afternoon I visited Mr. Freron Nismes-Moors of Barbary fond of Eng- the journalist—He spoke Latin very scantlishmen-Gibraltar eminently healthy ; it ily, but seemed to understand me-His has beef from Barbary—There is a large house not splendid, but of commodious garden-Soldiers sometimes fall from the size-His family, wife, son, and daughter, rock.'
not elevated, but decent-I was pleased “ Friday, 13th October. I staid at home with my reception—He is to translate my all day, only went to find the prior, who books, which I am to send him with notes. was not at home,I read something in Sunday, 15th October.–At Choisi, a Canus - Nec admiror, nec multum laudo. royal palace on the banks of the Seine,
Saturday, 14th October.-We went to about 7m. from Paris—The terrace noble the house of M. [D'] Argenson, which was along the river-The rooms numerous and almost wainscotted with looking-glasses, grand, but not discriminated from other and covered with gold— The ladies' closet palaces—The chapel beautiful, but small wainscotted with large squares of glass over China globes-Inlaid tables-Labyrinthpainted paper—They always place mirrours Sinking table — Toilet tables. to reflect their rooms.
• Monday, 16th October.—The Palais “Then we went to Julien's 2, the treasu- Royal very grand, large, and lofty—A very rer of the clergy_30,0001. a year— The great collection of pictures, Three of Rahouse has no very large room, but is set phael-Two Holy Family—One small piece with mirrours, and covered with gold of M. Angelo-One room of Rubens-I Books of wood here, and in another library. thought the pictures of Raphael fine.
“ At D********'s 3 I looked into the “ The Thuilleries-Statues Venusbooks in the lady's closet, and in contempt
Æn. and Anchises in his arms—Nilus showed them to Mr. T[hrale) — Prince Many more -The walks not open to mean Titi 4 ; Bibl. des Fées,' and other books- persons—Chairs at night hired for two sous She was offended, and shut up, as we heard a piece-Pont tournant 9. afterwards, her apartment.
« Austin Nuns l_Grate-Mrs. Fermor, “ Then we went to Julien le Roy, the Abbess-She knew Pope, and thought him king's watch-maker, a man of character in disagreeable-Mrs. has many books, his business, who showed a small clock made has seen life-Their frontlet disagreeableto find the longitude-A decent man. Their hood—Their life easy-Rise about
“ Afterwards we saw the Palais March. five; hour and half in chapel-Dine at ten and 5 and the courts of justice, civil and —Another hour and half in chapel; half an
1 Melchior Canus, a celebrated Spanish Dom- the Conciergerie of that palace (like the Gateinican, who died at Toledo, in 1560. He wrote house of ours) became a prison. The Palais a treatise “De Locis Theologicis,” in twelve Marchand was only the stalls (like what are now books.-Boswell. (He was celebrated for the called bazars) which were placed along some of beauty of his Latinity : “Melchior Canus parlait the galleries and corridors of the Palais.-Ed.). Latin comme Ciceron.”— Vigneul Marvilliana, 6 [The selette was a stool on which the crimiv.i. p. 161.-Ed.)
nal sat while he was interrogated—questioned 2 (M. de St. Julien, Receveur général du by the court. This is what Johnson means by clergé.-Mém. de Bachaumont, v. viii. p. 180. queries."--Ed.) -Ed.)
7 This passage, which so many think supersti3 (D'Argenson's.-Ed.]
tious, reminds me of " Archbishop, Laud's Dia+ The history of Prince Titi was said to be ry." —Boswell. [It, perhaps, had no supersti, the aulo-biography of Frederick, Prince of tious meaning. He felt, it would seem, his mind Wales, but was probably written by Ralph, his disturbed, and may naturally have been appresecretary. See Park's Roy. and Nob. Auth. hensive of becoming worse.—Ed.] vol.i. p. 171.-Ed.) (A ludicrous error of the 8 (A round table, the centre of which descend. Editor's, illustrative of the vice of annotators, ed by machinery to a lower floor; so that supper whose optics are too apt to behold mysteries in might be served and removed without the presvery plain matters. The History of Prince Titi ence of servants. It was invented by Louis XV. was a child's book with that title. --F.J.) during the favour of Madame du Barri.--Ed.]
5 [Dr. Johnson is in error in applying, as he 9 [Before the revolution, the passage from the always does, the name of Palais-Marchand to garden of the Thuilleries into the Place Louis the whole of that vast building called generally XV. was over a pont tournunt, a kind of drawthe Palais, which from being the old palace of the bridge.-Ep.) kings of France had (like our own palace of 10 [The English convent of Notre Dame due Westminster) become appropriated to the sittings Sion, of the order of St. Augustine, situated as of the parliament and the courts of justice; and the Rue des Fossés St. Victor.–Ed.)
The sight of palaces, and other great The introductor came to us–civil to
hour about three, and half an hour more at “So many shops open, that Sunday is seven-four hours in chapel-A large garden little distinguished at Paris.—The palaces -Thirteen pensioners — Teachers com- of Louvre and Thuilleries granted out in plained.
lodgings. “ At the Boulevards saw nothing, yet was In the Palais de Bourbon, gilt globes o. glad to be there-Rope-dancing and farcem | metal at the fireplace. Egg dance.
• The French beds commended-Much of “ N. (Note.]-Near Paris, whether on the marble only paste. week-days or Sundays, the roads empty. · The colosseum 7 a mere wooden build.
“ Tuesday, 17th October.-At the Palais ing, at least much of it. Marchand I bought
Wednesday, 18th October.—We went to A snuff box, 24 Livres
Fontainbleau, which we found a large mean 6
town, crowded with people—The forest Table book, 15
thick with woods, very extensive—Manucci Scissors 3 p (pair) 18
secured us lodgings—The appearance of the
country pleasant-No hills, few streams, [Livres] 63—21. 12s. 6d. ster. only one hedge— I remember no chapels noi “We heard the lawyers plead-N. As crosses on the road-Pavement stil, and many killed at Paris as there are days in the rows of trees. year-Chambre de question 2–Tournelle at “N. Nobody but mean people walk in the Palais Marchand An old venerable Paris. building.
* Thursday, 19th October.–At court we “ The Palais Bourbon, belonging to the saw the apartments—The king's bed-chamPrince of Condé-Only one small wing ber and council-chamber extremely splendid shown—lofty-splendid-gold and glass -Persors of all ranks in the external rooms The battles of the great Cond are painted through which the family passes—servants. in one of the rooms—The present prince a and masters—Brunets with us the second grandsire
time. buildings, leaves no very distinct images, un- me-Presenting-I had scruples – Not ne. less to those who talk of them—As I entered, my wife was in my mind 5: she would had seats and voices in the parliament, but were have been pleased. Having now nobody to of little weight as a political body, from the please, I am little pleased.
smallness of their numbers, and because their “ N. In France there is no middle rank 6. parliament had only continued to be, what we
still call ours, a high court, and had lost its legis.
lative functions ;--next came the noblesse--the 1 [Young ladies, who paid for their educa- gentilhommes-answering to our gentry ;-then tion. Before the revolution, there were the middle classes of society, composed of the boarding schools, and all young ladies were poorer gentry, lawyers, medical men, inferior educated in the convents.-Ed.)
clergy, literary men, merchants, artists, manu2 [This was one of the rooms of the Conci- facturers, notaries, shopkeepers, in short, all ergerie, where la question—torture—was ap- those who in every country constitute the middle plied.--Ed.]
classes, and they undoubtedly existed in France 3 [Again he mistakes, by introducing the in their due proportion to the gentry on the one word Marchand. The word Tournelle designa- hand, and the working classes on the other. ted that portion of the parliament of Paris Johnson's remark is the stranger, because it which tried criminal causes, and that part of would seem that his intercourse while in Paris the Palais in which they sat.-E.)
was almost exclusively with persons of this 4 [The Prince de Condé was born in 1736, and middle class ; but it must be observed, that his died in 1818. The grandson was the celebrated intercourse and his consequent sources of inforand unfortunate Duke d'Enghein, born in 1755, mation were not extensive. Mrs. Piozzi says to murdered in 1804. The father, “restes infortu- him, talking of the progress of refinement of nés du plus beau sang du monde,” still lives un- manners in England, “I much wonder whether der his former title of Duc de Bourbon.-Ed.) this refinement has spread all over the conti
5 His tender affection for his departed wife, of nent, or whether it is confined to our own island : which there are many evidences in his “Prayers when we were in France we could form little judgand Meditations," appears very feelingly in this ment, as our time was chiefly passed among the passage.—Boswell.
English.”—Lett.—ED.) 6 [This observation, which Johnson afterwards [This building, which stood in the Faubourg repeats, was unfounded in the sense in which he St. Honoré, was a kind of Ranelagh, and was appears to have understood it. France was in destroyed a few years after. The “ Memoires theory divided (as England is) into the clergy, the de Bachaumont" call it “ monument monstreux nobles, and the commons, and so it might be said de la folie Parisienne.”—V. i. p. 311.--Ep.) that there was no middle rank; but not only did 8 (Perhaps M. J. L. Brunet, a celebrated ad the theoretical constitution of society thus resem- vocate of the parliament of Paris, author of se ble that of England, but so did its practical de- veral distinguished professional works.--Ed.) tails. There were first the peers of France, who 9 [It was the custom previous to court present
cessary_We went and saw the king and Sunday, 220 October.—10 Versailles, a queen at dinner-We saw the other ladies mean 5 town—Carriages of business passat dinner-Madame Elizabeth, with the ing—Mean shops against the wall-Our Princess of Guimené-At night we went to way lay through Sêve, where the China a comedy-I neither saw nor heard manufacture-Wooden bridge at Sêve, in Drunken women—Mrs. Th[rale) preferred the way to Versailles—The palace of great one to the other.
extent--The front long; I saw it not per· Friday, 20th October.-We saw the fectly— The Menagerie-Cygnets dark; queen mount in the forest-Brown habit; their black feet; on the ground; tamerode aside: one lady rode aside – The Halcyons, or gulls-Stag and hind, young queen's horse light gray-martingale—She -Aviary, very large; the net, wire-Black galloped-We then went to the apartments, stag of China, small-Rhinoceros, the horn and admired them—Then wandered through broken and pared away, which, I suppose, the palace-In the passages, stalls and shops will grow; the basis, I think, four inches
- Painting in fresco by a great master, across; the skin folds like loose cloth doubled worn out-We saw the king's horses and over his body, and cross his hips; a vast ani. dogs—The dogs almost all English–Dege- mal, though young; as big, perhaps, as four nerate,
oxen—The young elephant, with his tusks “The horses not much commended— The just appearing—The brown bear put out his stables cool; the kennel filthy.
paws—all very tame-The lion—The tigers “ At night the ladies went to the opera- Í did not well view—The camel, or dromeI refused, but should have been welcome. da ry, with two bunches called the Huguin 6, “ The king fed himself with his left hand | taller than any horse-Two camels with
one bunch-Among the birds was a pelican, “ Saturday, 21st October.-In the night who being let out, went to a fountain, and I got round-We came home to Paris-I swam about to catch fish-His feet well think we did not see the chapel-Tree bro- webbed; he dipped his head, and turned his ken by the wind-The French chairs made long bill sidewise-He caught two or three all of boards painted 2.
fish, but did not eat them. “N. Soldiers at the court of justice — “ Trianon is a kind of retreat appendant Soldiers not amenable to the magistrates to Versailles-It has an open portico; the Dijon women 4.
pavement, and, I think, the pillars, of marFaggots in the palace-Every thing slo- ble—There are many rooms, which I do not venly, except in the chief rooms—Trees in distinctly remember-A table of porphyry, the roads, some tall, none old, many very about five feet long, and between two and young and small.
three broad, given to Louis XIV. by the · Women's saddles seem ill made—Venetian state In the council-room almost Queen's bridle woven with silver-Tags to all that was not door or window was, I think, strike the horse.
looking-glass—Little Trianon is a small pa
lace like a gentleman's house–The upper ations, that an officer waited on the person to be floor paved with brick 7—Little Vienneintroduced, to instruct them in the forms. John- The court is ill paved— The rooms at the son's scruples probably arose from this-it was top are small, fit to soothe the imagination an etiquette generally insisted on to present at fo- with privacy-In the front of Versailles are reign courts those only who had been presented to small basins of water on the terrace, and their own sovereign at home. Johnson had never been publickly presented to the king, though
other basins, I think, below them—There he had had that honour in private, and may, there
are little courts. The great gallery is wain
scotted with mirrours not very large, but fore, have entertained scruples whether he was entitled to be presented to the king of France; joined by frames, I suppose the large plates but it would seem that those scruples were not were not yet made- The playhouse was necessary, the rule perhaps extending only to for- very large 3-The chapel I do not remember mal presentations at court, and not to admission to see the king dine.-Ed.)
5 (There must be some mistake. Versailles 1 (This probably means that the queen was is a remarkably stately town.-Ed.) attended by only one lady, who also rode aside, 6. This epithet should be applied to the aniand not that one female attendant rode so, while mal with one bunch.--BosweLL. other ladies rode astride.-Ed.)
7 [The upper floors of most houses in France 2 [Meaning, no doubt, that they were not of are tiled.--Ed.) cedar, ebony, or mahogany, but of some meaner 8 [That magnificent building, which was both a wood coloured over, a fashion which had not yet theatre and a ball-room. It was rarely used; the reached England. -Ed.]
lighting and other expenses for a single night be3 [The marechaussée was posted at the gates ing 100,000 francs. It is celebrated in the History of the courts of justice; but the interior disci- of the Revolution as the scene of the entertainpline was maintained by huissiers, ushers, the ment given by the Gardes du Corps, on the 1st servants of the court.-Ed.]
October, 1789; of which innocent and, indeed, s See ante, p. 12.--Boswell.
laudable testimony of attachment between them