adorned with what is most enchanting in art, she sits by the Elbe like a fair one in romance, wreathing her towery diadem-so often scathed by war-with the vine and the myrtle, and looking on her own beauty imaged in the river flood, which, after rolling an impetuous torrent through the mountain gorges, here seems to pause and spread itself into a lucid mirror to catch the reflection of her airy magnificence. No doubt misery and evil dwell in Dresden, as in all the congregated societies of men, but nowhere are they less obtrusive. The city has all the advantages, and none of the disadvantages, of a capital; the treasures of art accumulated here-the mild government, the delightful climate, the beauty of the environs, and the cheerfulness and simplicity of social intercourse, have rendered it a favourite residence for artists and literary cha

years which have elapsed since Mr. Russel's visit have not passed away without some salutary changes, while more are evidently at hand.

Mr. Russel speaks of the secrecy with which the sittings of the Chambers were then conducted they are now public, and the de. bates are printed in the Gazette at considerable length.

Frederick, the present king of Saxony, succeeded his uncle Antony in 1837.

VOL. II.

F

racters, and to foreigners one of the most captivating places in the world. How often have I stood in the open space in front of the gorgeous Italian church, or on the summit of the flight of steps leading to the public walk, gazing upon the noble bridge which bestrides the majestic Elbe, and connects the new and the old town; or, pursuing with enchanted eye the winding course of the river to the foot of those undulating purple hills, covered with villas and vineyards, till a feeling of quiet grateful enjoyment has stolen over me, like that which Wordsworth describes

Felt in the blood, and felt along the heart,
And passing even into my purer mind

With tranquil restoration.

But it is not only the natural beauties of the scene which strike a stranger; the city itself has this peculiarity in common with Florence, to which it has been so often compared, that instead of being an accident in the landscape—a dim, smoky, care-haunted spot upon the alllovely face of nature—a discord in the soothing harmony of that quiet enchanting scene which steals like music over the fancy; it is rather a charm the more -an ornament- a crowning

splendour—a fulfilling and completing chord. A general air of cheerfulness combined with a certain dignity and tranquillity, the purity and elasticity of the atmosphere, the brilliant shops, the well-dressed women, and the lively looks and good-humoured alertness of the people, who, like the Florentines, are more remarkable for their tact and acuteness than for their personal attractions; all these advantages render Dresden, though certainly one of the smallest, and by no means one of the richest capitals in Europe, one of the most delightful residences on the continent. I am struck, too, by the gentle voices of the women, and the courtesy and vivacity of the men; for in Bavaria the intonation is broad and harsh, and the people, though frank and honest, and good-natured, are rather slow, and not particularly polished in their demeanour.

It is the general aspect of Dresden which charms us it is not distinguished by any striking architectural decorations, if we except the Italian church, which, with all its thousand faults of style, pleases from its beautiful situation and its exceeding richness. This is the only Roman Catholic church in Dresden: for it is curious

enough, that while the national religion, or, if I may so use the word, the state religion, is Protestant-the court religion is Catholic; the royal family having been for several generations of that persuasion; but this has caused neither intolerance on the one hand, nor jealousy on the other. The Saxons, the first who hailed and embraced the doctrines of Luther, seem quite content to allow their anointed king to go to heaven his own way; and though the priests who surround him are, of course, mindful to keep up their own influence, there is no spirit of proselytism; and I believe the most perfect equality with regard to religious matters prevails here. The Catholic church is almost always half-full of Protestants, attracted by the delicious music, for all the corps d'opera sing in the choir. High mass begins about the time that the sermon is over in the other churches, and you see the Protestants hurrying from their own service, crowding in at the portals of the Catholic church, and taking their places,

* Augustus II. abjured the Protestant religion in 1700, in order to obtain the crown of Poland; and ever since his time the royal family, some from conviction, and some from a point of honour, have adhered to the Roman Catholic church.

the men on one side and the women on the other, with looks of infinite gravity and devotion: the king being always present, it would here be a breach of etiquette to behave as I have often seen the English behave in the Catholic churchesprecisely as if in a theatre. But if the good old monarch* imagines that his heretic subjects are to be converted by Cesi'st divine voice, he is wonderfully mistaken.

The people of Dresden have always been distinguished by their love of music: I was therefore rather surprised to find here a little paltry theatre, ugly without, and mean within; a new edifice has been for some time in contemplation, therefore to decorate or repair the old one may seem superfluous. That it is not nearly large

* The last king Antony.

The first tenor at Dresden in 1833.

In 1839 the new Royal Theatre at Dresden had made considerable progress; it is built from the designs of Professor Semper, and under the direction of the Baron von Lüttichau, who, with the architect Semper, visited and examined the principal theatres in Europe, in order to adopt the latest improvements, and avoid the mistakes or defects which they exhibited. I went over the whole of this theatre when in progress, and was favoured with a sight of the designs, both for the internal and external arrangements; when finished, it will certainly be one of the most beautiful, complete, and comfortable theatres in Europe.