pendage, this truly regal residence has never been overlauded; at least in the present critic's estimation. Nay, he considers the Alhambra more worthy of being visited than any other object whatever throughout the entire Peninsula. To give, however, any detailed description of what there comes under the eye of even the most incurious traveller, is impossible. Indeed, a volume might alone be filled without exhausting the subject; either in an artistic sense, or speaking historically. To judge correctly of its splendour and magnificence the precinct must be visited in detail, although a portion of the palace only remains, the greatest part having been destroyed by barbarians like Charles V., Emperor of Germany, and other subsequent Vandals, even down to very recent times. Fortunately, any further destruction has been arrested for some years past. Hence, the reigning queen deserves much credit in having sanctioned the restoration of what has escaped demolition, and also ordered it to be restored, wherever possible, to the condition in which this building existed, while occupied by Arabian potentates, her predecessors. When the present tourist visited the Alhambra, it was very satisfactory to see various workmen busy restoring and beautifying several apartments, in order that they might display their pristine magnificence. Moreover, he was still further gratified to hear that government proposed continuing various judicious embellishments, and especially to prevent any future vandalism being committed, either by native or foreign iconoclasts.

Whoever has seen the Alhambra Court in the London Crystal Palace, may thereby attain a very correct notion of the chief features, as also elegant proportion and most remarkable beauties of its original. But this only refers to the interior apartments and their ornamentation, not to the splendid yet varied prospects which may be obtained of Granada and its fertile Vega from different palace windows and miradors. At Sydenham that gratification is impossible. Another peculiarity of the Alhambra is the shabby, uninteresting exterior aspect it exhibits. To look at the palace from Granada, or any adjacent height, the spectator would almost conclude it was only a tumble-down, dilapidated convent, or some mass of old buildings, which might be occupied by animals, but never could have been the habitation of human beings, still less of sovereigns and imperious courtiers. However, this custom, or rather fashion, always prevailed among the Moors; they decorated their residences with the utmost magnificence interiorly, although plain outside, and often mean-looking. The same taste still prevails, even in modern Spain. For example, the palace of the Cardinal Archbishop of Toledo and Primate outwardly appeared more like an old barn than a dwelling for that high church dignitary; whereas, inside, it equals many royal abodes in Europe. When seen by the writer, during his sojourn at Toledo, he could scarcely believe any cardinal then lived within. The outer walls seemed as if about to fall; while the main carriage entrance was covered with dust, the door itself being apparently rotten, and much in need of fresh painting. Therefore, to know the true characteristics of ancient Moorish, and even of many Spanish buildings, the insides must be seen; as it is only then that observers can learn anything regarding the mode of life and manners of a people altogether different from most Europeans of the present century.

After making these general remarks respecting the Alhambra and Moorish residences of every description, a few glances, at least, must be

taken of the salient features which excite in a spectator's mind sensations of pleasure, if not admiration. The Court of the Lions is certainly the gem of the entire structure. It forms an oblong quadrilateral "patio," sixtysix feet broad by one hundred and sixteen long, having one hundred and forty-four slender white marble pillars, eleven feet in height, which support a portico on each side, with an elegant pavilion at both ends. În the centre, twelve lions support an alabaster basin, from whence a fountain occasionally plays; but when the Moors were masters, it did so in all directions. The more this court is examined, the greater will be the gratification it produces among amateurs of Saracenic architecture. The Ambassadors' Hall is quite of another character, although equally Moorish in its ornaments, but covered over, and has no columns. It is simply a square apartment, thirty-seven feet on each side, and seventy-. five high in the centre, forming a dome outwardly, called the Tower of Comares. Being gorgeously ornamented throughout the interior, this royal reception-room still retains much of its former magnificence. The Hall of Justice, so called from having an assemblage of ten bearded Moors sitting in divan, and painted on the ceiling, is likewise justly admired." The saloon of the Abencerrages also constitutes a great object of interest. Besides which, that of the Two Sisters becomes equally interesting to the eyes of tourists. This latter appurtenance has been so named from two similar large slabs of marble set in its pavement. These, with several adjoining rooms, comprised the Moorish kings' private residence; and even now, from what remains, it may be judged how gorgeous must have been the entire suite they usually inhabited. Bath-rooms, places for reposing in afterwards, miradors to look out upon adjacent or distant objects, porticos for promenade, dressing-closets, and various other appendages, were all here provided, but too numerous to mention. In fact, a task of that kind would be endless.

Before taking leave of the Alhambra, the writer would, however, finally remark, that he has never spent any forenoon so usefully, or in such an agreeable occupation, as the several hours passed in that most interesting locality, where persons perambulating its various apartments almost believe they are then visiting some ancient Moorish potentate; nay, have even gone back several centuries in the world's existence. To those of poetic imaginations, such thoughts would almost appear realities, when visiting dwellings like the one in question. But the tourist who now describes his own sensations, being rather of a phlegmatic temperament, and not an enthusiast, may be the more likely believed, when speaking thus highly of the Moorish kings' Windsor Castle, seeing it did not disappoint his previously rather excited expectations, whether from reading the vivid accounts of other travellers, or hearing the eulogies expressed by friends in conversation. All that now remains to say on his part being, he hopes every future traveller who inspects the Alhambra may experience equal gratification,

After passing several hours on a second visit admiring the gorgeous remains of this still beautiful palace, but to which the writer has scarcely done justice in previous remarks, he ascended the ancient Moorish Torre de la Vela, from whence a splendid panoramic view of the surrounding rich Vega may be obtained, as also of the capital close adjoining. Taken as a whole, this fertile plain is inferior in beauty to the

Huerta of Valencia. It is extensive, while numerous quintas, villages, several convents, and some palaces, may be seen around. Still, the prospect thus afforded cannot be compared with that just named, which, on one side, had the Mediterranean, so refreshing to the eye in hot weather. Whereas clouds of dust, scorching sunshine, and, everywhere, arid-looking fields, only now presented themselves to the spectator's observation. Being the best point to obtain a correct notion of the city itself, visitors should always mount to the platform at its summit. Here Count Tendilla unfurled the flag of Castile on the surrender of Granada, which first announced to the Moorish population that the Christians had triumphed, and the Moorish rule was really at an end, after having continued nearly seven centuries. To commemorate that event, the bell, which long summoned Moslems to prayer, is now rung every January 2, it being the anniversary. On such festive occasions, the Alhambra is visited by crowds; when rumour says, few unmarried young ladies pass without striking the bell, which ensures them a husband, and a good one, in proportion to the noise they then make. At least, so believes the credulous peasantry. The gate of "Justicia" should likewise be noticed, as here the Sovereign dispensed judgment. But visitors ought especially to observe the figure of an open hand, chiselled in stone, over the outer horseshoelike arch; while above the inner arch that of a key is sculptured. Tradition said, when this key was grasped by the open hand on the outer arch, then Moslem dominion would terminate. However, that hand has never yet even touched the key, although Moorish rule has long since ceased in the Peninsula. But, like the influence ascribed to the Torre del Vela bell over maidens, any power of this key to keep out Christians has proved equally impotent.

The splendid palace built by the Emperor Charles V. likewise deserves a passing remark. It is a fine square building of considerable extent, and is really imposing. Being built on ground where a large portion of the Alhambra formerly stood, and which was purposely destroyed, the present structure consequently becomes a condemning monument of that Sovereign's vandalism. Although commenced more than three hundred and thirty years ago, and workpeople were engaged upon the building during upwards of a century, it has never been finished or inhabited, unless by galley-slaves, who have since gone elsewhere. Hence, leaving this Græco-Roman palace tenantless, to record an emperor's folly, and the limited exchequer of a nation, in which many great projects are begun, but few ever terminated. Before bidding a final adieu to the Alhambra, one gratifying fact connected with its supervision should be mentionedviz. the public are not admitted on Sundays. In Catholic Spain, where the Sabbath always becomes a holiday, and places of profane amusements are then more frequented by pleasure-seeking spectators than in week days, such a regulation is highly creditable to government, while all must regret so good an example does not prevail more generally. But this step is a good beginning; and being so very different from proceedings elsewhere noticed, the present chronicler of passing events has therefore greater satisfaction in thus recording an arrangement in every way praiseworthy.

Next in importance, after the Alhambra, comes the cathedral. It is large and clumsy outside, of Græco-Roman architecture, having May-VOL. CXIX. NO. CCCCLXXIII.

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Corinthian columns within. There is nothing striking throughout, unless its magnitude, with a variety of ornaments and profuse gilding; although the white and black marble pavement is handsome. Like similar sacred edifices in Spain, the interior aspect of this building is gloomy, but not so melancholy-looking as often observed elsewhere. The chief attractions are the tombs of Queen Isabella and her husband King Ferdinand, with a magnificent monument in the royal chapel attached. Their sepulchre is magnificent, and, as a work of art, deserves minute examination. The recumbent statues of the two sovereigns lying on its summit, cannot, however, be thus seen to advantage. Nevertheless, the numerous embellishments and surrounding rail are all very curious, while they give an excellent idea of artistic ingenuity at the period this structure was erected. After examining various interesting objects which the cathedral contains, being Sunday, the writer had an opportunity of seeing the archbishop, who was present during the performance of high mass. On retiring, he blessed the surrounding congregation, then kneeling, by making the sign of a cross over their heads, both right and left. His grace afterwards walked down the centre aisle, followed by train-bearers and suite, to the great door, through which the procession disappeared. Whereupon, many humble devotees again quickly found their legs, previously abjectly bent to a feeble fellow-mortal. For such the archbishop really appeared, being of little stature, stooping through age or infirmities, and whom a gust of wind might have overthrown. But this genuflexion to living man is not uncommon in a country, where prostration both of body and intellect, before dead images or inanimate pictures, so universally obtains. During the service just mentioned, two fiddles, a bass violin, and clarionet accompanied the singers when the musical portion of the cere→ mony was performed. This being the only occasion, excepting once at the court cathedral of Dresden, in which the writer ever saw profane fiddles introduced during service, he could not avoid being astonished; although in Spain they think otherwise. He was, however, still further amazed, when the musicians played some sort of jig, or merry tune, at which many Scotchmen would have felt much inclination to join chorus, if not actually to "lilt" a Highland fling; the sounds produced on this occasion being so very different from what Presbyterians consider sacred and solemn, or compatible with any religious ceremony whatever.

Subsequent to mass being performed, it seemed singular to observe the number of females kneeling on the bare pavement before various altars, images, and pictures, then saying their prayers devoutly, and to all appearance quite unconscious of external objects. Many were ladies, and beautifully dressed, most being in black attire, with fan, veil, and also often carrying a book or string of beads in their hands. Fewer men were present than women, but the proportion of males was here, and generally elsewhere, much greater than in France, where seldom any other persons than old women and children frequent the churches for devotional purposes.

OUR GOLDEN EMPIRE.

I AM sick of hearing "fine" writers describe Australia as the "brightest jewel of the British crown." It reminds me so much of the highflown rhapsodies of O'Connell, about Ireland being the emerald of the British tiara, the gem of the sea, that graced the coronal of British Majesty, which were common in a time of political romance, before commerce ruled the councils of statesmen, and before we were taught by a second-I forgot, a third-Napoleon (taking the baby-king into account) to practically sign and seal the declaration of the first, that the English were a nation of shopkeepers. Both extremes are objectionable, but commerce being now the great ruling power, let us drop poetry, and call our jewels by their proper names. South England is the copper, Mid-England the iron, and Wales the slate and lead that go to compose the house that Trade built for the workshop of the world; and North England keeps the forges going. In like manner, our dependencies may be described in more prosaic terms than of old; yielding to the spirit of the age, Canada stands as the good sound heart of oak foundation on which our distant empire is built, and Australia is the nugget which has replaced the much-talked-of diadem. But, if all is not gold that glitters, all is not profitable that is golden. The childish fever of standing on Tom Tittler's ground, picking up gold and silver, that carried off its thousands to be buried in gold diggings a few years ago, is abated; the Anglo-Saxon character stands out again superior to the temptation of easy acquisition and mere hap-hazard gain; the old English spirit is once more alive in opening up the resources of new countries by its indomitable perseverance and patient industry; and it is now steadily applying itself to the resources of our new eastern empire, which, if not per se more valuable, are even more profitable than gold. Let us inquire, then, what are these resources; our eyes no longer dazzled by the yellow deposits, let us look steadily at the even richer green, and the grey, and the brown, and the black, from which gold can be as surely extracted, if by a more tedious process, by a less precarious one.

What, then, does Australia produce? Gold, undoubtedly; but gold in many shapes and forms-gold picked up on the surface by idle adventurers, not worth a pinch of that March dust, a peck of which is traditionally worth a Jew's ransom to the industrious plodding English farmer -gold crushed out of quartz with pain and trouble, and alloyed with fraud for sale-gold dug for with weary limbs and broken hearts, and, when found, only buying a hateful life and a dreadful end-gold extracted in true, honest, hard-working English fashion, from baser metals, from the trunks of thousand-year old timber, from the fleecy coats of fecundant sheep, from the blubber of whales, and from the thousand-and-one resources which lavish Nature has bestowed upon the Flinders-christened "Terra Australis."

A new country-till the demon of gain lifts up the sod that covers the vein of precious metals-essentially is a pastoral one; and, for years and years, the settlers in this new continent put faith, in their simple but sensible fashion, in their flocks and herds. How was that faith repaid?