and the device or figure drawn upon the outer plate. They are then held in a vice or clamp, and cut out as one plate with a fine saw, or wrought into form with files; drilling tools can be employed to assist in the operation. To separate the pieces, the cemented shells are thrown into warm water, which softens the glue and divides them. Cast or sheet iron and papier-mâché are the materials upon which pearl is generally fixed or inlaid. The process is as follows:

If the article be of cast iron, it is well cleaned from the sand which usually adheres to the casting, and is blackened with a coat of varnish and lamp-black. When this is thoroughly dried, another coat of japan or black varnish is spread evenly upon it. Before the varnish becomes too dry, pieces of pearl cut in the form of leaves, roses, or such flowers as the fancy of the artist may dictate or the character of the article may require, are laid upon it, and pressed down with the finger, and they immediately adhere to the varnished surface. The work is then placed in a heated oven, and kept there for several hours, or until the varnish is perfectly dried. It is then taken from the oven, and another coat of varnish applied indiscriminately on the surface of the pearl and the previous coating, and again placed in the oven till dry. This process is repeated several times. The varnish is then scraped off the pearl with a knife, and the surface of the pearl and the varnish around it is found to be quite even. The pearl is then polished with a piece of pumice-stone and water, and the surface of the varnish is rubbed smooth with powdered pumice-stone, moistened with water. It is in this unfinished state that the pearl has the appearance of being inlaid, and from which it derives its name. Its final beauty and finish depend altogether on the skill of the artist who now receives it.

CHAPTER III.

PEARLS AND THE PEARL FISHERIES.

Great demand for pearls-Mode of formation-Large and valuable pearlsShells on which they are formed-Statistics of the Ceylon pearl fisheriesMode of prosecuting the fishery-Classification of pearls-Value of pearls imported into England-Persian Gulf fishery-Panama fishery—Pacific fisheries-Pearls from river mussels-Celebrated pearls.

HAVING treated of mother-of-pearl and its applications, we are necessarily led next to the consideration of the muchprized pearls themselves, which are held in such high estimation for personal decoration by ladies, and even by the stronger-minded sex in the East, where Indian princes are radiant in pearls, and the trappings of their elephants are profusely covered with these gems of the ocean. The native princes, in their interview a few years ago with the Viceroy of India at Barwal, had their elephants beautifully caparisoned with masses of pearls on the head. Holkar had his chest completely covered with strings of pearls and emeralds. This much-admired ornament is appreciated in all parts of Eastern Asia, from the Himalayas to the Pacific, and from Manchuria to the Straits, being in requisition for the decorations of shoes, girdles, earrings, necklaces, and head-dresses, and for the embellishment of popular divinities. The frequent mention of pearls in Chinese history shows the value set upon them by the

Imperial court, and by all who were ambitious of adorning their persons. Pearls of two and three inches in circumference are spoken of. Mingti, a Chinese monarch of the early part of the tenth century, celebrated for his extravagance, had such a profusion of pearls ornamenting his canopy, the trappings of his horses and chariots, and decorating his person and the persons of his nobles, that the road was often strewn with the gems which the gorgeous cortége dropped in its train. A custom was prevalent, termed "scattering in the palace," in which embassies from tributary States strewed pearls about in abundance; indeed, on one occasion, a garment composed of strings of pearls was thus presented.

It is debatable ground whether pearls come strictly under the term "gems," but they are, at least, very precious in price and general estimation. The value of the pearls owned in Europe, America, and India must be considerable, if we consider what have been the accumulation of ages, how eagerly the search for them is still prosecuted, and how anxious those having wealth at command are to possess the choicest of their kind. We have but very imperfect data on which to frame any reliable estimate of the Western commerce in pearls. A large dealer has assured me that from £100,000 to £120,000 is about the annual value of those received here. If we examine the official Board of Trade returns we find that the declared and computed value of the pearls, set or unset, imported into the United Kingdom in the 18 years ending with 1870, exceeded £1,000,000 sterling.

This, be it remembered, is much under the true value, and relates only to Great Britain, whilst quantities are brought in unrecorded. If we consider also how many are sent to the East, and are sold on the continent and in

America, we may be able to form a slight conception of the great importance of pearls in an artistic and commercial point of view. The 10 fisheries for pearls carried on, on the coast of Ceylon, between 1833 and 1863, brought in to the Ceylon Government £300,000, but what the speculators made by the pearls they obtained it is quite impossible

to state.

The ordinary pearls of commerce are an excretion of superimposed concentric laminæ, of a peculiarly fine and dense nacreous substance, consisting of membrane and carbonate of lime. The best are obtained from bivalves, but some are formed by univalves, which are more curious than valuable.

In the class of mollusca which inhabit the seas and fresh waters, most of those with shells secrete a horny and calcareous substance, that is, combined animal and mineral, formed on the interior of the shell during their growth, and they also form that admired substance known as mother-ofpearl. The superabundance of this secretion is often produced in drops, balls, or tuberosities, adhering to the interior of the valves, or lodged in the fleshy part of the animal. In the latter instance they are of a spherical shape, and increased annually by a layer of pearly matter; they remain brilliant, translucid, and hard.

At the Maritime International Exhibition which was held at Naples in 1871, the various ocean treasures employed in art were displayed in great profusion and magnificence. Even the Italian journals became poetical and enthusiastic upon the manifold attractions of the hall of pearls and coral. Marchisini, of Florence, showed a wonderful collection of pearls; among others, a brown pearl, valued at £5000, and three necklaces of large white oriental pearls, finished and ornamented with brilliants, etc.

To this exhibitor was awarded the great gold medal, nct for finish as works of art (for those of Franconini and R. Phillips, of London, which were far superior, were passed over), but merely as the most rare and valuable collection of pearls shown.

Bellega has a high reputation for Italian jewellery. His collection at Naples also received a medal from the jury, and included a diadem of pearls, turquoises, and brilliants, and a variety of other objects.

Phillips Brothers, of Cockspur Street, exhibited a very large and curious-shaped pearl, tastefully mounted and set as a triton.

The best pearls are of a clear, bright whiteness, free from spot or stain, with the surface naturally smooth and glossy. Those of a round form are preferred, but the larger pear-shaped ones are esteemed for earrings. According to the position the pearls occupy, they partake of the character of the shell near which they are formed. Thus, the pearls from the centre of the nacreous shells are of the usual pearly structure of those shells, while the pearls formed on or near the outer coat of the Pinna squamosa are of the same brown colour and prismatic texture as that

part of the shell. Those from the Placuna placenta are of

a lead colour, while even from the true pearl oysters (Avicula margaritifera) they are frequently of a light, semi-transparent straw colour. Those formed on the part of the common mussel shells are of a bluish colour.

The dark-coloured pearls are usually little esteemed; in general they are obtained from the black-edged or smoky mother-of-pearl shell. Pearls of a considerable size are sometimes found attached to the shell, and being carefully removed and filed, are strung with the perfect pearls, as the convex part of the pearl which was in contact with the