other farm in the valley. In her orchard I noticed pear and peach trees, and grape vines in abundance; while around the house were rose bushes and other flowering shrubs. The lady was at work in her garden, in which she seemed to take a deep interest; while frolicking around her were six beautiful children, whose light hair and fair complexion indicated their Anglo-Saxon parentage. Passed other farms, some of which, particularly Mr. Keller's, bore the marks of an old settlement, from the extent of its fences, its barns, saw-mill, and other improvements. Here was a large orchard of peach trees in full bloom; which trees, I was told, were brought round Cape Horn from the Atlantic States. Every thing here was in a flourishing condition; although in the form and arrangement of the buildings a sad deficiency of taste was visible.

A ride of three miles further brought us to Mr. Kilburn's, a Missourian, with a Californian wife. We stopped here for the night, and were disappointed in not finding Mr. K. at home. He is another old resident, having been some seven years in the valley. As this gentleman was familiar with the district we were about to visit, we had relied on his accompanying us; or, failing to do so, we had hoped to obtain such information from him as would enable us to find the objects of which we were in search. Mrs. Kilburn received us kindly, although we were all strangers to her; nevertheless she seemed a little flustered when we told her we had come to pass the night there. She is quite young, good-looking, and has an interesting family of little ones around her, who, like the children before

mentioned, exhibit their Anglo-Saxon descent. A fine supper was soon prepared for us; after partaking of which, we were directed to our beds in the chamber above, all clean and comfortable.

The valley for the last few miles had diminished much in width, being not more than a mile at Mr. Kilburn's farm. The soil, too, had changed from a black loam to clay and gravel. Nevertheless, vegetation seemed quite as luxuriant, and the valley presented a greater variety of trees. The oak, which, as I have stated, monopolizes the valley below, here gives way to the lofty pine, spruce, red-wood, cedar, &c.

I had heard at San Francisco of the large yield of vegetables on this farm, and made inquiry as to its truth. I found the statement to be correct; and that from two acres of onions planted near the house, Mr. Kilburn had realized last year, in the market of San Francisco, eight thousand dollars in cash. He also raised an immense number of cabbages and other vegetables. In explanation of this, I ought to mention that onions are considered the most valuable of all vegetables among the gold miners, on account of their antiscorbutic properties. They grow here to an enormous size, and give an immense yield. My own experience convinces me of the great value of onions where there is a predisposition to scurvy, and there is no vegetable which one craves more than this. Many have I bought at twelve and a half cents a piece, and eaten with more relish than I ever did an orange.

In our ride to-day, we crossed the valley to examine some thermal springs, which are somewhat celebrated here. They are in a plain near the base of a small hill

Columns of steam were
These springs had been

of conglomerate rock; but owing to the wet and boggy condition of the valley, we were unable to approach within thirty feet of them. rising from them on all sides. visited by Professor Shepard the year before, and some account of them given by him to the public.* The temperature is said to be constantly changing. Professor S. heard that there was a place near the foot of Mount Helena, where the hot waters formerly flowed, but which had now ceased. This report induced him to visit the spot. "Externally," he says, "there was no uncommon appearance to indicate the locality. Neither a surplus or a scarcity of vegetation, and no appearance of scoria, tufa or travertine, as might have been expected." In one place, however, he found it slightly warm on the surface; and on excavating to the depth of two feet, it became so hot that he could not bear his hand in the mud and clay. He inserted the bulb of his thermometer, and the mercury at once rose to one hundred and twenty degrees. The temperature of the springs we visited, varied from 105 to 169 degrees.

*See Silliman's Journal, Nov. 1851, p. 154.

CHAPTER XXIII.

THE GEYSERS OF PLUTON RIVER, AND RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO.

Mount Helena-Russian inscription-Digger Indians-Dwellings-Mode of fishing-Dress-Pass the mountains-Meet bear hunters-Mode of cooking without utensils-Pluton River-The Geysers-Description of these phenomena-Effect of the water on wood-Extent of volcanic action-Return to Camp-Abundance of grizzly bears-Recross the mountains-Return through Napa Valley-Visit to the Obsidian hills -Extensive use of this material by the Indians-Return to San Francisco.

March 21st. Resumed our journey after breakfast ; and at Mr. Fowler's, three or four miles distant, met a man who manifested much curiosity in our researches, when he found us inquiring about mines and the volcanic region. He showed Dr. Webb a specimen of ore, which, he said, was from that vicinity. The doctor at once pronounced it zinc, and expressed a doubt about its being found in the state in which it was exhibited to him. But the man insisted that his account of its origin was correct, and furthermore offered to conduct us to the spot; whereupon we set off together under his guidance. Crossing the valley to the opposite side, he led us up a deep ravine, where he leaped from his horse and pointed out the rock from

which he said the specimen was taken. An examination showed it to be nothing but serpentine. He led the doctor to several ledges at some distance, but their character was the same. He had evidently been imposed upon, for he acknowledged afterwards that he did not find the specimen himself. Many tricks of this kind are practised on the ignorant, and they even sometimes lead scientific men astray.

While this man was hunting up his imaginary treasures, I ascended a small hill and took a sketch of the beautiful scenery around. Directly before me on the eastern side of the valley loomed up Mount Helena or Moyacino of the Russians. This is the highest mountain for a great distance around, none within seventy or eighty miles having as great an altitude. On its summit is an inscription in Russian characters on a plate of copper, giving the latitude and longitude of the place. We met several persons who had seen the tablet. The Russians had a settlement called Fort Rosse on Bodega Bay, opposite this mountain; and the tablet was doubtless placed there to show the line of boundary which Russia claimed.

The view here exhibited the finest alpine scenery I had yet seen in California, and showed that we were advancing northward as well as reaching a higher elevation.

Reached Mr. Knight's, twelve miles from Kilburn's, at noon. Here the valley grew quite narrow, or rather terminated, it being intersected by a range of hills. At this place, another valley opened some two or three miles in width, and extended about ten miles farther to the north.