stone aqueduct through which it ran was eighteen inches broad, and the water between ten and twelve inches deep. One of the mills was carried by an overshot wheel forty feet in diameter; the others by wheels somewhat less. The superintendent of Dr. Hewison's mill is from Rhode Island. The operatives are all Mexicans, and, I was told are very quick at learning the art of weaving, and much easier to manage than American operatives. The cotton used is raised in the valleys near, and a ready market is found for the goods as fast as they are produced.

This factory was the favorite ride of General Taylor while in Saltillo; and it was a source of gratification to find that the officers of the American army were still held in high respect by the citizens of the place.

Saltillo, the capital of Coahuila, is a well-built city, with paved streets. Many of its houses are of two stories, and all of them painted in warm colors. The population is about fifteen thousand. Besides the churches mentioned, there is an unfinished edifice, which was commenced by the Jesuits. The Alameda is the finest place of the kind we had yet seen. It is filled with large trees, and its walks are lined with agaves and rose-bushes. In the evening I called, accompanied by the gentlemen of the Commission, to pay our respects to Dr. Hewison and his lady.

CHAPTER XLIII.

SALTILLO TO RINGGOLD BARRACKS.

Leave Saltillo-Accident at the start-Enter the Rinconada Pass-A night in the defile-Los Muertos-Ampudia's redoubt-Magnificent scenery -Hacienda of the Rinconada-Sierra Mitra-Santa Catarina-Suburbs of Monterey-Loma de Independencia-Arrival at Monterey-Pronunciamentos-Visit the Bishop's palace-Beautiful valley-The citadelProsperity of the city-Its climate-Elevation-Departure-MarinRamos-Carrizitos-Dense chapporal-Miss the road-Cerralvo-Puntiagudo-Bad road-Mier-Trade for serapes--Texan Mier Expedition -Character of the Rio Grande above Mier-Ascent of a steamboat to Loredo-Ancient oyster beds-Rio San Juan-Mexican brigade-Camargo-Cross the Rio Grande-Arrival at Ringgold Barracks.

December 10th. As we were not yet out of the reach of the Indians, I applied to, and was furnished with an escort of ten mounted men by the authorities here, who were promptly on the ground at the hour named for starting. Our repairs being completed, we left Saltillo this morning, but had not proceeded more than three or four miles, slowly over a smooth and level road, when the wheel of another wagon gave way, without any apparent cause. On examination it was found that most of the spokes and the rim were broken, so that the wheel was utterly ruined. Fortunately, we were near Dr. Hewison's factory, to which I rode

immediately, and was promptly furnished by the superintendent with a beam, which we rigged to the end of the axle as a drag. After the delay of an hour or two, we again moved forward. We passed many haciendas and ranchos, and after proceeding about twelve miles entered the famous Rinconada pass.* The road now became very uneven with a continuation of hills and valleys, while mountains rugged and lofty rose on either side; the defile averaging about two miles in width. Passed a monument erected by the ladies of Saltillo on the spot where some Americans had been murdered by robbers. After making about twenty-five miles, we reached a rancho in the pass called Los Muertos (The Dead), where, just at sunset, we encamped. A small stream flowed by, lined with large cotton-wood trees.

December 11th. It was very cold when we left camp this morning, our elevation now being 6104 feet above the level of the sea, so that all wrapped themselves in blankets or overcoats. Our escort, who put on their gaudy serapes, made a very picturesque appearance. Soon after leaving we reached a narrow and steep descent, where we were obliged to wait for a train that was coming up, before we could descend. Here the pass did not exceed five hundred yards in width. Near this, on the left, is a spur of the mountain which overlooks and commands the defile, where General Ampudia erected a battery or breastwork, for the purpose of checking the advance of the American

army.

While the train was waiting, I went out to

* Rinconada, a corner or lurking place.

examine this work, which was but a few rods off, and took a sketch of the magnificent defile. Far ahead, we could just perceive the picturesque summit of the Sierra Mitra (Mitre Mountain), so named from the striking resemblance of one of the summits in the range to a bishop's mitre. The place selected for the Mexican battery would have greatly embarrassed our army had it been maintained; but after the fall of Monterey, it was abandoned.

Soon after descending this hill, we reached the rancho of Rinconada in a curious little nook in the mountain resembling a horseshoe, which gives its name to the pass. From the number of fruit trees and cultivated grounds it had doubtless been once a thriving place. Every thing now seemed to be fast going to

ruin.

We continued to descend the whole day; yet, owing to the roughness of the road, and our three-wheeled wagon, we were obliged to drive with great caution, that we might not further disable ourselves. Our escort pointed out to us as we progressed another rancho, which was attacked by a band of Indians a few months before, and all the inmates murdered.

We were unable to reach Monterey as we had hoped to do, and it was long after dark when we reached the village of Santa Catarina, at the base of the Sierra Mitra and about twenty miles from the Rinconada, where we encamped.

December 12th. Soon after leaving, we passed the Molino de Jesus Maria, a large flouring mill, and shortly after reached the Loma de Independencia upon which stands the Bishop's palace, so celebrated in the opera

tions of the American army during the investment of Monterey. Having now reached the valley in which stands the city, we passed by walled inclosures where, among a variety of fruit and ornamental trees, we saw some loaded with oranges and lemons. Stone houses with high thatched roofs, surrounded by pretty gardens with more of an air of comfort than any we had seen, lined the approach to the city. On entering, we drove to a corral; and after putting up the wagons and animals, we took up our quarters at Coindreau's Hotel; a spacious building with a large court, in the style of the country. One might have imagined that another bombardment was going on from the roar of cannon, as we entered the town; but it proved to be nothing more formidable than the celebration of the day of the "Holy Lady of Guadalupe," one of the greatest festivals of the country.

December 13th. Lost no time in setting the blacksmith and carpenter at work, and in the mean time sallied forth to see what was remarkable in and about the city. We found several Americans in the place, although the number had greatly diminished within a year. There are a great many shops, and every description of goods to be found in them. In many of them the clerks speak English, acquired during the occupation of the city by the Americans. A large commerce has now grown up between Monterey and the United States, which will tend to Americanize the place. At the time of our visit, the singular state of the frontier had greatly contributed to increase this commerce. Pronunciamentos, another name for revolutions, were then in vogue at Matamoras, Camargo,