« 이전계속 »
washed place of worship, supported | paid; and presently the old ladics, by half a dozen columns on either rising from their chairs one by one, side, over each of which stands the came in face of the altar, where they statue of an Apostle, with his emblem knelt down and said a short prayer; of martyrdom. Nobody was as yet then, rising, unpinned their veils, and at the distant altar, which was too far folded them up all exactly in the same off to see very distinctly; but I could folds and fashion, and laid them perceive two statues over it, one of squar like napkins on their headls, which (St. Laurence, no doubt) was and tucked up their long black outer leaning upon a huge gilt gridiron that dresses, and trudged off to their conthe sun lighted up in a blazepainful but not a romantic instrument The novices wear black veils, under of death. A couple of old ladies in one of which I saw a young, sad, white hoods were tugging and sway- handsome face; it was the only thing ing about at two bell-ropes that came in the establishment that was the least down into the middle of the church, romantic or gloomy: and, for the and at least five hundred others in sake of any reader of a sentimental white veils were seated all round turn, let us hope that the poor soul about us in mute contemplation until has been crossed in love, and that the service began, looking very sol- over some soul-stirring tragedy that emn, and white, and ghastly, like an black curtain has fallen. army of tombstones by moonlight. Ghent has, I believe, been called a
The service commenced as the clock vulgar Venice. It contains dirts finished striking seven : the organ canals and old houses that must satispealed out, a very cracked and old fy the most eager antiquary, though one, and presently some weak old the buildings are not quite in so good voice from the choir overhead qua- preservation as others that may bu vered out a canticle; which done, a seen in the Netherlands. The commerthin old voice of a priest at the altar cial bustle of the place seems considfar off (and which had now become erable, and it contains more beer-shopis quite gloomy in the sunset) chanted than any city I ever saw. feebly another part of the service; These beer-shops seem the only then the nuns warbled once more over- amusement of the inhabitants, uniit head; and it was curious to hear, in at least, the theatre shall be built, of the intervals of the most lugubrious which the elevation is now complete, chants, how the organ went off with a very handsome and extensive pile. some extremely cheerful military or There are beer-shops in the cellars of profane air. At one time was a the houses, which are frequented, it is march, at another a quick tune; which to be presumed, by the lower sort; ceasing, the old nuns began again, there are beer-shops at the barriers, and so sung until the service, was where the citizens and their families ended.
repair; and beer-shops in the town, In the midst of it one of the white- glaring with gas, with long gauze veiled sisters approached us with a blinds, however, to hide what I hear very mysterious air, and put down is a rather questionable reputation. her white veil close to our ears, and Our inn,“ The Hotel of the Post," whispered. Were we doing any thing a spacious and comfortable residence, wrong, I wondered ? Were they come is on a little place planted round with to that part of the service where here- trees, and that seems to be the Palais tics and infidels ought to quit the Royal of the town. Three clubs, church? What have you to ask, which look from without to be very sacred, white-veiled maid ?
comfortable, ornament this square All she said was, .“ Deux centièmes with their gas-lamps. Here stands, pour les suisses,” which sum was I too, the theatre that is to be; there is
a café, and on evenings a military | They hate you because you are stuband plays the very worst music I pid, hard to please, and intolerably ever remember to have heard. I went insolent and air-giving.. I walked out to-night to take a quiet walk with an Englishman yesterday, who upon this place, and the horrid brazen asked the way to a street of which discord of these trumpeters set me he pronounced the name very badly half mad.
to a little Flemish boy: the Flemish I went to the café for refuge, pass- boy did not answer; and there was ing on my way a subterraneous beer- my. Englishman quite in a rage, shop, where men and women were shrieking in the child's ear as if he drinking to the sweet music of a must answer. He seemed to think cracked barrel-organ. They take in that it was the duty of “the snob,” a couple of French papers at this café, as he called him, to obey the gentleand the same number of Belgian jour- man. This is why we are hated — for nals. You may imagine how well pride. In our free country a tradesthe latter are informed, when you hear man, a lackey, or a waiter will subthat the battle of Boulogne, fought by mit to almost any given insult froin a the immortal Louis Napoleon, was gentleman : in these benighted lands not known here until some gentlemen one man is as good as another; and out of Norfolk brought the news from pray God it may soon be so with us ! London, and uritil it had travelled Of all European people, which is the to Paris, and from Paris to Brussels. nation that has the most haughtiness, For a whole hour I could not get a the strongest prejudices, the greatest newspaper at the café. The horrible reserve, the greatest dulness? I say brass band in the mean time had quit- an Englishman of the genteel classes. ted the place, and now, to amuse the An honest groom jokes and hobs-andGhent citizens, a couple of little boys nobs, and makes his way with the came to the café, and set up a small kitchen-maids, for there is good social concert : one played ill on the guitar, nature in the man; his master dare but sang, very sweetly, plaintive not unbend. Look at him, how he French ballads; the other was the com- scowls at you on your entering an inn. ic singer; he carried about with him room; think how you scowl yourself a queer, long, damp-looking mouldy to meet his scowl. Today, as we white hat, with no brim. “ Ecoutez, were walking and staring about the said the waiter to me, “il va faire place, a worthy old gentleman in a l'Anglais; c'est très drôle !” The carriage, seeing a pair of strangers, little rogue mounted his immense took off his hat and bowed very gravebrimless hat, and, thrusting his ly with his old powdered head out of thumbs into the armholes of his the window : I am sorry to say that waistcoat, began to faire l’Anglais, our first impulse was to burst out with a song in which swearing was laughing — it seemed so supremely the principal joke. We all laughed ridiculous that a stranger should noat this, and indeed the little rascal tice and welcome another. seemed to have a good deal of humor. As for the notion that foreigners
How they hate us, these foreigners, hate us because we have beaten them in Belgium as much as in France ! so often, my dear sir, this is the greatWhat lies they tell of us; how gladly est error in the world : well-educated they would see us humiliated! Hon- Frenchmen do not believe that we have est folks at home over their port-wine beaten them. A man was once ready say, “Ay, ay, and very good reason to call me out in Paris because I they have too. National vanity, sir, said that we had beaten the French in wounded we have beaten them so Spain; and here before me is a French often.” My dear sir, there is not a paper, with a London correspondent greater error in the world than this. I discoursing about Louis Bonaparte
and his jackass expedition to Bou- 1 town was especially disagreeable to me, logne. He was received at Eglin- and have only just hit on the reason toun, it is true,” says the correspond- why. Sweetest Juliana, you will ent,
" but what do you think was never guess it: it is simply this, that I the reason ? Because the English no- have not seen a single decent-looking bility were anxious to revenge upon his woman in the whole place; they look person (with some coups de lance) the all ugly, with coarse mouths, vulgar checks which the grand homme' his figures, mean mercantile faces; and uncle had inflicted on us in Spain.” so the traveller walking among them
This opinion is so general among tinds the pleasure of his walk excesthe French, that they would laugh at sively damped, and the impressions you with scorntul incredulity it you made upon him disagreeable. ventured to assert any other. Foy's In the Academy there are no pichistory of the Spanish War does not, tures of merit; but sometimes a secunluckily, go far enough. I have ond-rate picture is as pleasing as the read a French history which hardly best, and one may pass an hour here mentions the war in Spain, and calls very pleasantly. There is a room apthe battle of Salamanca a French vic- propriated to Belgian artists, of which
You know how the other day, I never saw the like: they are, like all and in the teeth of all evidence, the the rest of the things in this country, French swore to their victory of Tou- miserable imitations of the French louse: and so it is with the rest; and school - great nude Venuses, and you may set it down as pretty certain, Junos à la David, with the drawing ist, That only a few people know the left out. real state of things in France, as to the matter in dispute between us; 2d, That those who do, keep the The change from vulgar Ghent, truth to themselves, and so it is as if with its ugly women and coarse busit had never been.
tle, to this quiet, old, half-deserted, These Belgians have canght up, cleanly Bruges, was very pleasant. I and quite naturally, the French tone. have seen old men at Versailles, with We are perfide Albion with them still. shabby coats and pigtails, sunning Here is the Ghent paper, which de-themselves on the benches in the clares that it is beyond a doubt that walls; they had seen better days, to Louis Napoleon was sent by the Eng- be sure, but they were gentlemen still: lish and Lord Palmerston; and though and so we found, this morning, old it states in another part of the jour-dowager Bruges basking in the pleasnal (from English authority) that the ant August sun, and looking if not Prince had never seen Lord Palmer- prosperous, at least cheerful and wellston, yet the lie will remain upper bred. It is the quaintest and prettiest
the people and the editor will of all the quaint and pretty towns I believe it to the end of time.
have seen. A painter might spend See to what a digression yonder little months here, and wander from church fellow in the tall hat has given rise! to church, and adınire old towers and Let us make his picture, and have pinnacles, tall gables, bright canals, done with him.
and pretty little patches of green gar
len and moss-grown wall, that reflect I could not understand, in my walks in the clear quiet water. Before the about this place, which is certainly inn-window is a garden, from which picturesque enough, and contains in the early morning issues a most extraordinary charms in the shape of wonderful odor of stocks and wallold gables, quaint spires, and broad flowers ; next comes a road with trees shining canals — I could not at first of admirable green; numbers of litcomprehend why, for all this, the | tle children are playing in this road
(the place is so clean that they may have heard to-day “Suoni la Tromroll in it all day without soiling their ba, “Son Vergin Vezzosa,” from pinafores), and on the other side of the “ The Puritani,” and other airs, and trees are little old-fashioned, dumpy, very badly they were played too; for whitewashed, red-tiled houses. A such a great monster as a tower-bell poorer landscape to draw never was cannot be expected to imitatc Maknowi, nor a pleasanter to see the dame Grisi or even Signor Lablache. children especially, who are inordi- Other churches indulge in the same nately fat and rosy. Let it be re- amusemeni, so that one may come meinbered, too, that here we are out here and live in melody all day or of the country of ugly women: the night, like the young woman in expression of the face is almost uni- Moore's “Lalla Rookh.” formly gentle and pleasing, and the In the matter of art, the chief atfigures of the women, wrapped in tractions of Bruges are the pictures long black, monk-like cloaks and of Hemling, that are to be seen in hoods, very picturesque. No wonder the churches, the hospital, and the there are so many children: "The picture-gallery of the place. There Guide-book” (omniscient Mr. Mur- are no more pictures of Rubens to be ray!) says there are fifteen thousand seen, and, indeed, in the course of a paupers in the town, and we know fortnight, one has had quite enough how such multiply. How the deuce of the great man and his magnificent, do their children look so fat and rosy? swaggering canvases.
What a difBy cating dirt-pies, I suppose. I saw ference is here with simple Hemling a couple making a very nice savory and the extraordinary creations of one, and another employed in gravely his pencil! The hospital is particusticking strips of stick betwixt the larly rich in them; and the legend pebbles at the house-door, and so there is that the painter, who had making for herself a stately garden. served Charles the Bold in his war The men and women don't seem to against the Swiss, and his last battle have inuch more to do. There are a and defeat, wandered back wounded couple of tall chimneys at either sub- and penniless to Bruges, and here urb of the town, where no doubt man- found cure and shelter. ufactories are at work, but within the This hospital is a noble and curious walls everybody seems decently idle. sight. The great hall is almost as it
We have been, of course, abroad to was in the twelfth century; it is visit the lions. The tower in the spanned by Saxon arches, and lighted Grand Place is very fine, and the by a multiplicity of Gothic windows bricks of which it is built do not yield of all sizes; it is very lofty, clean, a whit in color to the best stone. The and perfectly well ventilated ; a screen great building round this tower is runs across the middle of the room, very like the pictures of the Ducal to divide the male from the female Palace at Venice; and there is a long patients, and we were taken to exammarket area, with columns down the ine each ward, where the poor people middle, from which hung shreds of seemed happier than possibly they rather lean-looking meat, that would would have been in health and stardo wonders under the hands of Catter- vation without it. Great yellow mole or Haghe. In the tower there blankets were on the iron beds, the is a chime of hells that keep ringing linen was scrupulously clean, glitterperpetually. They not only play ing pewter-jugs and goblets stood by tunes of themselves, and every quarter the side of each patient, and they of an hour, but an individual per- were provided with godly books (to forms selections from popular operas judge from the binding), in which on them at certain periods of the several were reading at leisure. Hon. morning, afternoon, and evening. Iest old comfortable nuns, in queer
dresses of blue, black, white, and plices serving him, holding his robe flannel, were bustling through the as he rose and bowed, and the moneyroom, attending to the wants of the gatherer swinging his censer, and sick. I saw about a dozen of these filling the little chapel with smoke. kind women's faces; one was young The music pealed with wonderful
– all were healthy and cheerful. One sweetness ; you could see the prim came with bare blue arms and a great white heads of the nuns in their galpile of linen from an out-house — such lery. The evening light streamed a grange as Cedric the Saxon might down upon old statues of saints and have given to a guest for the night. carved hrown stalls, and lighted up A couple were in a laboratory, a tall, the head of the golden-haired May. bright, clean room, 500 years old at dalen in a picture of the entombment least. “We saw you were not very of Christ. Over the gallery, and, as religious,” said one of the old ladies, it' were, a kind protectress to the with a red, wrinkled, good-humored poor below, stood the statue of the face, " by your behavior yesterday Virgin. in chapel." And yet we did not laugh and talk as we used at college, but were profoundly affected by the scene that we saw there. It was a
III. — WATERLOO. fête-day: a mass of Mozart was sung in the evening – not well sung, and Ir is, my dear, the happy privilege yet so exquisitely tender and melodi- of your sex in England, to quit the ous, that it brought tears into our dinner - table after the wine-bottles cyes. There were not above twenty have once or twice gone round it, and people in the church : all, save three you are thereby saved (though, to be or four, were women in long black sure, I can't tell what the ladies do cloaks. I took them for nuns at first. up stairs) — you are saved two or They were, however, the common three hours' excessive dulness, which people of the town, very poor indeed, the men are obliged to go through. doubtless, for the priest's box that I ask any gentleman who reads was brought round was not added to this — the letters to my Juliana being by most of them, and their contribu- written with an eye to publication tions were but two-cent pieces, -- five to remember especially how many of these go to a penny; but we know times, how many hundred times, how the value of such, and can tell the many thousand times, in his hearing, exact worth of a poor woman's mite! the battle of Waterloo has been disThe box-bearer did not seem at first cussed after dinner, and to call to willing to accept our donation — we mind how cruelly he has been bored were strangers and heretics ; however, by the discussion. “Ah, it was lucky I held out my hand, and he came per- for us that the Prussians came up! force as it were. Indeed it had only says one little gentleman, looking a franc in it: but que voulez-vous ?. I particularly wise and ominous. had been drinking a bottle of Rhine Hang the Prossians!” (or, perhaps, wine that day, and how was I to something stronger,
" the Prusafford more? The Rhine wine is sians!”) says a stoutold major on halfdear in this country, and costs four pay. “We beat the French without francs a bottle.
them, sir, as beaten them we always Well, the service proceeded. Twen- have! We were thundering down the ty poor women, two Englishmen, hill of Belle Alliance, sir, at the backs four ragged beggars, cowering on the of them, and the French were crying steps; and there was the priest at • Sauve qui peut' long before the the altar, in a great robe of gold and Prussians ever touched them !” And damask, two little boys in white sur- so the battle opens, and for many