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"In the afternoon I vifited Mr. Freron the journalist. He fpoke Latin very Etat. 66. fcantily, but feemed to understand me.-His house not fplendid, but of

commodious fize.-His family, wife, son, and daughter, not elevated but decent. I was pleased with my reception. - He is to tranflate my book, which I am to fend him with notes.


"Oct. 15. Sunday. At Choifi, a royal palace on the banks of the Seine, about 7 m. from Paris.-The terrace noble along the river.-The rooms numerous and grand, but not difcriminated from other palaces.-The chapel beautiful, but small.-China globes.-Inlaid table.-Labyrinth.-Sinking table.-Toilet tables.

"Oct. 16. Monday. The Palais Royal very grand, large, and lofty.—A very great collection of pictures.-Three of Raphael.-Two Holy Family.One small piece of M. Angelo.-One room of Rubens.-I thought the pictures of Raphael fine.

"The Thuilleries.-Statues.-Venus.-En. and Anchifes in his arms.— Nilus. Many more.-The walks not open to mean perfons.-Chairs at night hired for two fous a piece.-Pont tournant.

"Austin Nuns.-Grate.-Mrs. Fermor, Abbess.-She knew Pope, and thought him difagreeable.-Mrs. has many books ;-has feen life.Their frontlet difagreeable.-Their hood.-Their life easy.-Rise about five; hour and half in chapel.-Dine at ten.-Another hour and half at chapel; half an hour about three, and half an hour more at feven :-four hours in chapel. A large garden.-Thirteen penfioners.-Teacher complained.

"At the Boulevards faw nothing, yet was glad to be there.-Rope-dancing and farce.-Egg dance.

"N. [Note.] Near Paris, whether on week-days or Sundays, the roads empty.

"Oct. 17. Tuesday. At the Palais Marchand.-I bought

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24 L.

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"We heard the lawyers plead.-N. As many killed at Paris as there are days in the year.-Chambre de question.-Tournelle at the Palais Marchand.— An old venerable building.

"The Palais Bourbon, belonging to the Prince of Condé. Only one fmall wing shown;-lofty ; fplendid;—gold and glass.-The battles of the



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great Condé are painted in one of the rooms. The prefent Prince a grandfire
at thirty-nine.

"The fight of palaces, and other great buildings, leaves no very distinct images, unless to those who talk of them, and impress them. As I entered, my wife was in my mind': fhe would have been pleased. Having now nobody to please, I am little pleased.

"N. In France there is no middle rank.

"So many fhops open, that Sunday is little diftinguifhed at Paris.-The
palaces of Louvre and Thuilleries granted out in lodgings.

"In the Palais de Bourbon, gilt globes of metal at the fire-place.
"The French beds commended.-Much of the marble, only paste.
"The Coloffeum a mere wooden building, at least much of it.

"Oct. 18. Wednesday. We went to Fontainebleau, which we found a
large mean town, crouded with people.-The forest thick with woods, very
extenfive. - Manucci fecured us lodging.-The appearance of the country
pleafant.-No hills, few streams, only one hedge.-I remember no chapels
nor croffes on the road.-Pavement ftill, and rows of trees.

"N. Nobody but mean people walk in Paris.

"Oct. 19. Thursday. At court, we saw the apartments;-the King's bedchamber and council-chamber extremely fplendid.-Perfons of all ranks in the external rooms through which the family paffes;-fervants and mafters.Brunet with us the fecond time.

"The introductor came to us;-civil to me.-Prefenting.-I had fcruples.
Not neceffary. We went and faw the King and Queen at dinner.—
We faw the other ladies at dinner-Madame Elizabeth, with the Princefs of
Guimené.-At night we went to a comedy. I neither faw nor heard.-
Drunken women. Mrs. Th. preferred one to the other.

"Oct. 20. Friday. We faw the Queen mount in the foreft.-Brown
habit; rode afide: one lady rode afide.-The Queen's horfe light grey;-
martingale.—She galloped.—We then went to the apartments, and admired
them. Then wandered through the palace. In the paffages, ftalls and fhops.-
Painting in fresco by a great mafter, worn out.-We faw the King's horfes
and dogs.-The dogs almost all English.-Degenerate.

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"The horses not much commended.-The ftables cool; the kennel filthy. "At night the ladies went to the opera. I refused, but should have been welcome.

His tender affection for his departed wife, of which there are many evidences in his
Prayers and Meditations," appears very feelingly in this paffage.




Etat. 66.

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"The King fed himself with his left hand as we.

"Saturday, 21. In the night I got ground.-We came home to Paris.— I think we did not fee the chapel.-Tree broken by the wind.-The French chairs made all of boards painted.

"N. Soldiers at the court of juftice.-Soldiers not amenable to the magiftrates.-Dijon woman'.

Faggots in the palace.-Every thing flovenly, except in the chief rooms.
-Trees in the roads, fome tall, none old, many very young and small.
"Women's faddles feem ill made.-Queen's bridle woven with filver.-
Tags to ftrike the horse.

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"Sunday, Oct. 22. To Versailles, a mean town.-Carriages of business pafling. Mean fhops against the wall.-Our way lay through Séve, where the China manufacture.—Wooden bridge at Séve, in the way to Versailles.— The palace of great extent.-The front long; I faw it not perfectly.—The Menagerie. Cygnets dark; their black feet; on the ground; tame.-Halcyons, or gulls.-Stag and hind, young.-Aviary, very large: the net, wire.-Black ftag of China, finall.-Rhinoceros, the horn broken and pared away, which, I fuppofe, will grow; the bafis, I think, four inches crofs; the skin folds like loofe cloth doubled over his body, and cross his hips; a vast animal though young; as big, perhaps, as four oxen.-The young elephant, with his tuks juft appearing. The brown bear put out his paws;-all very tame.-The lion. The tigers I did not well view.-The camel, or dromedary with two bunches, called the Huguin', taller than any horfe.-Two camels with one bunch.-Among the birds was a pelican, who being let out, went to a fountain, and swam about to catch fish. His feet well webbed: he dipped his head, and turned his long bill fidewife. He caught two or three fish, but did not eat them.

"Trianon is a kind of retreat appendant to Verfailles. It has an open portico; the pavement, and, I think, the pillars, of marble.-There are many rooms which I do not diftinctly remember.-A table of porphyry, about five feet long, and between two and three broad, given to Lewis XIV..by the Venetian State. In the council-room almoft all that was not door or window, was, I think, looking-glafs.Little Trianon is a fimall palace like a gentleman's house. The upper floor paved with brick.-Little Vienne.-The court is ill paved.—The rooms at the top are small, fit to footh the imagination with privacy. In the front of Verfailles are fmall bafons of water on the terrace,

• See p. 503.

This epithet fhould be applied to this animal with one bunch.


and other bafons, I think, below them.-There are little courts.-The great gallery is wainscotted with mirrors, not very large, but joined by frames. I fuppofe the large plates were not yet made.-The play-house was very large.The chapel I do not remember if we faw.-We faw one chapel, but I am not certain whether there or at Trianon.-The foreign office paved with bricks. The dinner half a Louis each, and, I think, a Louis over.--Money given at Menagerie, three livres; at palace, fix livres.

"Oct. 23. Monday. Laft night I wrote to Levet.We went to fee the looking-glaffes wrought. They come from Normandy in caft plates, perhaps the third of an inch thick. At Paris they are ground upon a marble table, by rubbing one plate on another with grit between them. The various fands, of which there are faid to be five, I could not learn. The handle, by which the upper glafs is moved, has the form of a wheel, which may be moved in all directions. The plates are fent up with their furfaces ground, but not polished, and fo continue till they are befpoken, left time should spoil the surface, as we were told. Those that are to be polished, are laid on a table covered with feveral thick cloths, hard ftrained, that the resistance may be equal; they are then rubbed with a hand rubber, held down hard by a contrivance which I did not well understand. The powder which is ufed laft feemed to me to be iron diffolved in aqua fortis: they called it, as Baretti faid, marc de l'eau forte, which he thought was dregs. They mentioned vitriol and faltpetre. The cannon ball swam in the quickfilver. To filver them, a leaf of beaten tin is laid, and rubbed with quickfilver, to which it unites. Then more quickfilver is poured upon it, which, by its mutual [attraction] rifes very high. Then a paper is laid at the nearest end of the plate, over which the glass is slided till it lies upon the plate, having driven much of the quickfilver before it. It is then, I think, preffed upon cloths, and then fet floping to drop the fuperfluous mercury; the flope is daily heigthened towards a perpendicular.

"In the way I faw the Grêve, the mayor's house, and the Bastile.

He brews with about as much

"We then went to Sans-terre, a brewer. malt as Mr. Thrale, and fells his beer at the fame price, though he pays no duty for malt, and little more than half as much for beer. Beer is fold retail at 6d. a bottle. He brews 4,000 barrels a year. There are seventeen brewers in Paris, of whom none is fuppofed to brew more than he :reckoning them at 3,000 each, they make 51,000 a year. malt, for malting is here no trade.

They make their

"The moat of the Baftile is dry.

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"Oct. 24. Tuesday. We vifited the King's library-I faw the Speculum humane Salvationis, rudely printed, with ink, fometimes pale, fometimes black; part fuppofed to be with wooden types, and part with pages cut on boards.The Bible, fuppofed to be older than that of Mentz, in 62: it has no date; it is fuppofed to have been printed with wooden types.-I am in doubt; the print is large and fair, in two folios.-Another book was shown me, supposed to have been printed with wooden types;-I think, Durandi Sanctuarium in 58. This is inferred from the difference of form, fometimes feen in the fame letter, which might be ftruck with different puncheons.-The regular fimilitude of moft letters proves better that they are metal.-I faw nothing but the Speculum which I had not feen, I think, before.

"Thence to the Sorbonne.-The library very large, not in lattices like the King's. Marbone and Durandi, q. collection 14 vol. Scriptores de rebus Gallicis, many folios.-Hiftoire Genealogique of France, 9 vol.-Gallia Chriftiana, the first edition, 4to. the laft, f. 12 vol.-The Prior and Librarian dined [with us]:-I waited on them home. Their garden pretty, with covered walks, but fmall; yet may hold many ftudents.-The Doctors of the Sorbonne are all equal;-choose those who fucceed to vacancies.-Profit little.

"Oct. 25. Wednesday. I went with the Prior to St. Cloud, to fee Dr. Hooke. We walked round, the palace, and had fome talk.-I dined with our whole company at the Monaftery.-In the library, Beroald,-Cymon,Titus, from Boccace Oratio Proverbialis; to the Virgin, from Petrarch; Falkland to Sandys;-Dryden's Preface to the third vol. of Miscellanies3.

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"Oct. 26. Thurfday. We faw the china at Séve, cut, glazed, painted. Bellevue, a pleafing houfe, not great: fine profpect.-Meudon, an old palace.Alexander in porphyry: hollow between eyes and nofe, thin cheeks.-Plato and Ariftotle.-Noble terrace overlooks the town.-St. Cloud.-Gallery not very high, nor grand, but pleasing.-In the rooms, ' Michael Angelo, drawn by himself, Sir Thomas More, Des Cartes, Bochart, Naudæus, Mazarine.Gilded wainscot, fo common that it is not minded.-Gough and Keene.Hooke came to us at the inn.-A meffage from Drumgould.

"Oct. 27. Friday. I ftaid at home.-Gough and Keene, and Mrs. S's friend dined with us. This day we began to have a fire.The weather is grown very cold, and I fear, has a bad effect upon my breath, which has grown much more free and eafy in this country.


"Sat. Oct. 28. I vifited the Grand Chartreux built by St. Louis.It is built for forty, but contains only twenty-four, and will not maintain

3 He means, I fuppofe, that he read thefe different pieces, while he remained in the library.


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